So I'm dedicating this thread to my 562XP.
As I previously posted in my thread "Return of the Stihl 066Magnums".
I said my eight year old 562XP is now permanently retired due to hot start issues.
Well last evening after looking at the 562 sitting on the shelf by its self I took it down onto the bench and pulled its top cover off.
This saw doesn't have the upgraded cover with the hole below the decomp button like the latest 562 has.
So I made a hot air exhaust hole in the cover just like the factory did....only twice as big and removing some of the bottom edge too.
Today with the 562XP now out of retirement I put it to work in some oversize poplar limbing and bucking.
Warm day and worked it hard and everytime I shut it off a minute later it would start on the first pull without setting the fast idle first.
Unbelievable, I should have done this years ago.
I would keep this modified cover for the warm /hot months and for the cold winter months I'll have another non ported cover to keep the carb from icing up.
Until the day I get a MS462 or MS500i the 562XP is the best heavy limbing and light bucking saw!
Here's some pics.
The last two are of the Oregon 18" bar with the old 1980's Powermatch Double Guard 9 tooth 3/8" sprocket nose I run.
Smoothest safest bar you can run.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/21589/20200530_142526.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1590873438)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/21589/20200530_142719.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1590873434)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/21589/20200530_142625.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1590873435)
So the hot restart issue is resolved by better ventilation around the cylinder top. Could make a valid case for better breathing mufflers (sometimes aftermarket or modified), to get the hot gasses away from the machine better.
I did a video of the old non vented cover v the new vented cover on a 550 a couple of years ago and got a result of 3 to 4 degrees cooler with the new cover, 2016 they started fitting the new cover I recall ?
Years ago I muffler modded the 562XP but it didn't help the hot start issues.
To make the top cover heat venting hole I first outlined it with a felt marker. Drilled some holes and cut it out with a carpet knife.
Also cut out the lip on the bottom of the cover and to the left towards the air filter allowing more heat to discharge.
I think anyone making a living with a 562XP needs to have 2 top covers one modified like I just explained for warm/hot weather.
And a old style no port cover for winter use in cold to freezing temperatures.
Still never have set the fast idle on the 562XP for a hot start.
Totally different saw with the modified top cover.
It and the 066 Magnums are sharing the work load removing 10 oversized cotton woods for a customer.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/21589/20200603_154758.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1591233425)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/21589/20200602_095646.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1591233435)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/21589/20200602_144309.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1591233431)
Weeks later now since the 562XP received its top cover modification it has reprogrammed itself into a very reliable starting saw, plus a strong powerband like it had 8 years earlier in its life.
Still has the original carb diaphragms and the only thing I replaced on it was a few spark plugs and 2 anti vibe mounts.
I hope it's not ready to blow up as they tend to run the best right before they do so. :D
Willard,
Did you ever get a software update on your 562? If so, did you notice any difference?
thanks, Fred
Quote from: Sprinter on June 14, 2020, 10:27:16 AM
Willard,
Did you ever get a software update on your 562? If so, did you notice any difference?
thanks, Fred
Fred,
Since I bought that 2012 562XP brand new I never did get its software updated.
I did get my dealer to check the hours once. At that time it had over a 1000 hrs on it.
Mine was built about the same time as yours and I get a little nervous about software updates. Probably, too much computer time over the years! Some interesting reading over at OPE. It's a new saw but worth the read.
LINK REMOVED BY ADMIN. READ THE RULES UNDER TROLLING
As for starting, I rarely used the de-comp so I plugged it.
On cold start I full choke 'til it pops, then drop start with the throttle open and choke off.
Usually starts right up.
On hot start I just drop start with full throttle! Don't think I've used high idle.
Quote from: HolmenTree on May 31, 2020, 09:34:03 AMTo make the top cover heat venting hole I first outlined it with a felt marker. Drilled some holes and cut it out with a carpet knife. Also cut out the lip on the bottom of the cover and to the left towards the air filter allowing more heat to discharge.
Can you show some pictures of the lip you cut out?
Quote from: John Mc on June 14, 2020, 02:13:43 PM
Quote from: HolmenTree on May 31, 2020, 09:34:03 AMTo make the top cover heat venting hole I first outlined it with a felt marker. Drilled some holes and cut it out with a carpet knife. Also cut out the lip on the bottom of the cover and to the left towards the air filter allowing more heat to discharge.
Can you show some pictures of the lip you cut out?
Good sized piece of plastic cut out right here.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/21589/20200615_092311.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1592230853)
Willard, is that 1000 hours run time? That's actually quite remarkable. Definitely in the highest percentile.
The deal with the cutout in the top cover is said to buy you about 10 degrees of good restarting. IE, if the problem would manifest itself at 80 degrees, you'd now be safe up to 90. But it doesn't totally go away.
What temps have you been running that saw at? I know your temps up there are a little different than what I experience down here. :)
Quote from: Spike60 on June 15, 2020, 11:05:03 AM
Willard, is that 1000 hours run time? That's actually quite remarkable. Definitely in the highest percentile.
The deal with the cutout in the top cover is said to buy you about 10 degrees of good restarting. IE, if the problem would manifest itself at 80 degrees, you'd now be safe up to 90. But it doesn't totally go away.
What temps have you been running that saw at? I know your temps up there are a little different than what I experience down here. :)
Bob, yesterday afternoon it got up to 81F with a fair amount of humidity (it was muggy) that's when I had to set the fast idle again for a hot start.
But the saw was working hard and making heat and this was our hottest day so far this year.
I think a dry 81F would make a difference though as with humidity at that temperature it's darn hard on me let alone the 562.
I wonder if a custom external air filter would help cool the carb and processor down?
The heat "shield" fitted to the 572 has pretty much given a two section top cover, it's so effective that you can place your hand on the rear section over the carb and it's cool unlike the section over the cyl which is of course hot. 572 still has "vent" but 550 m2 no vent although there is a divider between carb and cyl not sure if it's the same material as the 572.
This is very interesting stuff to me considering that I have a very large amount of intent of getting a 572 or at least a 550mII. I already have a 372 and a Echo pro CS550P but they could ALWAYS be better. After all, if I don't have to worry about getting maximum performance or life by tuning for temp or other air conditions, then what more could I ask for. Oh, I know, how about a 585 or even better, 595!
Willard, an external AF set up would help. Not so much because the filter would be outside the carb box, but the extra opening for it would allow more cool air in. With that in mind, it give me the idea of venting the top cover by drilling some holes in the rear of it like I've seen some builders do. "Hotsaws101" maybe? Got plenty of top covers lying around so easy for me to try it.
This would mean a little extra attention needed to cleaning the air filter. The sealing of the air filter is the one remaining bug-a-boo on the 562. Especially here in the Northeast when cutting Ash and White Oak that seem to have that tanic acid in the sawdust that makes it sticky. So, now we are back to your external filter idea.
Suppose that we can make all of these concerns go away just by changing 4 parts? A new filter holder, filter, partition wall and top cover would pretty much solve both problems. They are called chassis "enhancments". There's really no need for a complete "M2" redesign. I remain hopeful. :)
Yes a stick on thick decal like insulation wall would be a good recall item for these older 5 series saws.
I'm going to try insulating the air box partition wall with some spray on expanding foam and a narrow putty knife, lots of other possibilities.
All I can say is just adding the extra large vent hole and a little cover trimming it made a HUGE difference in 1 pull starts without the fast idle .
I don't particularly like working in muggy plus 80F temps when I could be doing other projects then working over a hot saw in the sun.
Up here we get alot more cold then hot......do some fishing or something. :)
So after 8 years of hard use the 562's cylinder fins always looked clean and free of obstructions for the cooling air off the flywheel.
Until a closer look this afternoon.
For the first time ever I pulled off the rewind housing to get a better look.also removed the air injection duct....not good lots of old chips soaked in pine sap in the lower part of the cylinder base and into the air injection air way to the carb's air box.
Cleaned it out nicely and will try the saw out for the next couple of days with temps getting back into the 80's. Should run alot cooler now for the autotune micro processor.
With over a 1000 hours on this saw and almost zero mechanical issues it's easy to take for granted that everything is OK.
Takes more then just cleaning the air filter daily. :)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/21589/20200621_154529.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1592772712)
You clean your air filter daily?😁 My poor Stihl ms261, I think I've looked at the filter 2 or 3 times in the 3 years I've had it. It was perfectly clean each time, so🤷♂️
Funny addition to this story: When the extra hole in the top cover was first introduced, I started adding it to every saw that came into the shop. One tree company that has some guys who like to do some basic saw work decided to modify the rest of their saws. Problem is that they went and added the hole on the wrong side of the top cover, putting it on the starter side. They ended up making the problem worse because they now had cooling air blowing out the left side of the saw without ever passing over the cylinder fins.
Trying something new (I think). Introducing a bit of cooler air into the carb. Lifted the rear edge of the gray insert in the top cover. Ended up with a 0.25" x 1.25" slot aft of the air cleaner.
I really like the idea of cooler intake air.
Haven't tried it much yet but so far the filter seems okay.
As for aluminum tape, heat shield need an air space between the source and the target to work.
There's that black insert in the top cover over the airbox that already has premade holes underneath.
Some kind of design feature that never developed or maybe a future development. ???
HolmenTree,
Been following your mods for your 562xp as I have the same vintage saw. Just recently found out that Husqvarna upgraded their new 562 models when I visited my local dealer. Going to add the air vent holes. I appreciate your experience and willingness to experiment while passing your knowledge. Be safe in this heat. I too do not shy away from running my saws when it is warm out. My uncle always said summer time is when you cut firewood, winter is when you burn firewood.
Quote from: HolmenTree on June 22, 2020, 11:48:08 PMThere's that black insert in the top cover over the airbox that already has premade holes underneath. Some kind of design feature that never developed or maybe a future development.
Maybe, they had something similar in mind.
This could easily go much further and adding screening should be no problem if necessary.
I wish I had the software to see current temp readings. My max. temp. was 47C/117F.
"summer time is when you cut firewood, winter is when you burn firewood. "
I can't support that. Winter's when you cut next winter's firewood :^D
I try not to run saws in hot weather. I do what I have to do, but my preference is to wait til it's cool. I'm happier, and the machines are happier.
Raised on a farm we cut and skid wood in winter on ice and let it dry in the warmer months.
Warmer months were for field work and haying.
Are the brand new 562's now pretty much bulletproof?
My notion of opening a vent in the carb cover turned out to be bogus! It actually vents a considerable amount of air and possibly reducing potential boost pressure. So it could be a very bad thing. :embarassed:
Quote from: Sprinter on July 03, 2020, 05:38:14 PM
My notion of opening a vent in the carb cover turned out to be bogus! It actually vents a considerable amount of air and possibly reducing potential boost pressure. So it could be a very bad thing. :embarassed:
Yes that would pretty well disable the air injection flow from the rewind housing.
But then again when the cold weather plug in the airbox partition wall is removed to get cylinder heat to the carb....the saw runs fine.
There is a good thread going on OPE about hot starts. One fellow added a small air deflector to clutch side as his belief is the heat transfer from the handle to the tank is causing boiling fuel. I'm going to put some gasket material between the bottom handle screws and the tank to see if that helps.
I bought a newer top cover so I have one for warm weather and one for winter.
Now as for the carb deflector, I have heated handles and the wires come out right in front of the carb so there is not much room for a deflector.
Cut the covers on those for years now. Also cut a hole thru the baffle in the muffler right in front of the exhaust port along with a little "pipe" added up and to the clutch side, but with that tube back far enough when the saw is "rotated" into the wood it doesn't hit that pipe. Combination of a popup, muffler mod, and cut covers they start easier ( more compression ), run cooler and I never had hot start issues with those saws I did back then..( 2015-16 ) Still don't when I run them now. Did a bunch for local loggers and they never had issues and they are still out there.
1) Great little saw that had both teething issues early on ( cases/ covers/ pistons/ carbs evolved to a better place now ) but Husqvarna as a company worked through them and gave options to the point I can take the earliest and for reasonable money turn them into useful saws ( cases, cut covers, muffler mods, CST firmware updates ), almost as good as the post 2016 offerings. AND with CST along with the ability to track the parameters and update, dealers have a great tool to support those saws with that feature.
2) With out exception new technologies take time to mature.....and why the 550 MK2 and 572 are rather spectacular as new product offerings.
My 562XP chain keeps coming loose after about 1/2 a tank. Have put on new sprocket, new bar, new chain but still happens. Anyone provide an answer. Never ever had any trouble before. Frustrating.
Might need to lube the chain tensioner in the clutch cover. Take the little black cover off, dab of grease and move it back and forth a couple times.
Odd though that it takes a 1/2 tank to get loose.
Might be lack of bar oil, or the bar nuts aren't being tightened enough.
Are you lifting up the nose of the bar when tightening the bar nuts?
On the older J'reds like the 801/80/90/621/70e et al.....working them hard in the summer professionally was never really an issue UNLESS you turned them off and parked in the sun. Gas would boil, hard to start etc. Park them in the shade and no issues....simple fix.;D
Kevin
Glad you brought that up, because re-starting saws in 90° weather was a challenge way before auto-tune and M-tronic. Happened recently to me just running a 55. Big difference between cooling these little engines with 90° air vs 50° air. And setting them in the shade instead of the sun makes a bigger difference than most people would expect. Think about how much difference that makes when parking a vehicle.
Whenever the temp goes past 90°, we can be sure we'll get some hot start complaints. Yup, it's frustrating. Some guys think "Let me try the choke" and they make it worse. If you have a primer on your saw, then hit it a few times as the fuel in the tank is cooler than the fuel in the carb. Like the shade idea, every little bit helps. Good topic for the first day of summer, eh? :)
Yeah I was pulling my hair out at first. I was new to J'reds about 1979 and was using them as back up saws. Logging in 90F+ is abnormal anyway up in the forest/mountains. It just feels weird and out of place....even dressing for the day takes some thought and consideration.
Kevin
Done "cut cover" mods along with some targeted muffler mods for years now. Kind of old news? Factory has been doing that since 2016. Getting the "heat" out along with other mods have successfully solved that hot start thing on the saws in my community for at least 5 years prolly 6. GLAD you found that as the 562's are awesome AND with things like the short blocks and other advances that ALL retro back to the older versions. One of the best saw chassis to have available for sale in my most humble opinion.