Would be nice if some of our experienced users can share there knowledge with some of less experienced users that still like to saw and do some manual labor.
Post up all questions here. You might think its stupid but you might not be the only one in the boat.
I will be first heres my extra parts pile.
Anyone know where they go.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/60329/20200628_142130.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1593381605)
FWIW, I have the same parts pile.
I added a plastic shield/blade wiper on the blade exit. It keeps the machine from spitting little drops of oil out the side.
It is a plastic coffee can lid with a slot cut in it. Held in place with a magnet.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/48503/F722AF32-CC1C-4171-9E85-F69865961E74.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1588369239)
If you light face grind the first time around will it eventually more face grind since where the blade pusher hits will be less so it should . So is it important to try get it perfect so it only goes 1 time around on touch up grind. Also how do you check that blade tip is perfectly flat. Use a magnifying glass cause my eyes aren't that good.
Thanks Unclefish
Use red layout dye on every blade to make sure the whole profile is ground.
Also pay attention to the sound of a grind. If it sounds different something is different.
The amount of face grind won't change without adjusting the length of the pusher. Face grind is determined by the length of the pusher relative to the opposite side of the the wheel. Now two light trips around will give a more complete grind if everything is adjusted right.
I've not been sharpening long and haven't been too worried about flatness of the top of the tooth. The wheel shape takes care of the top of the tooth.
I do use a magnifier to look at the teeth and gullet.
First sharpening 10° .045 looking with magnifying glasses grind looks a little rough. Top of tips I can feel a like a sharp bur that ok. Here are some pics
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/60329/20200630_154357.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1593546228)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/60329/20200630_154252.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1593546319)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/60329/20200630_160630~1.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1593547442)
It's important to look at the very corners of the teeth. That where the chiseling action and fiber separation takes place when sawing, just as with a wood chisel. The edge must be sharp, but the corners should be very sharp and fully formed.
Here are two pictures of the same band, after successive passes. Big difference.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/21488/image~43.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1396324887)
This is not a fully sharpened tooth. Slightly rounded corners, and not fully formed.
However, the photo below shows a fully sharpened tooth, with very sharp chisel corners, and ready to saw.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/21488/image~45.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1396324957)
This was done with a drag sharpener, and my CBN wheel (BMS250) makes the teeth look even better.
I let this 1 go around 3 times seems to me like it does cleaner nicer job.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/60329/20200701_155345.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1593633965)
Magnet fell off once and I let one go for about two hours. She was sharp, gullet was a bit shallow, but sure was sharp..
Quote from: Southside on July 01, 2020, 06:14:17 PM
Magnet fell off once and I let one go for about two hours. She was sharp, gullet was a bit shallow, but sure was sharp..
No micro cracks in that blade..lol
That will just give face grind, when the blade isn't raised after each go round.
I had the same magnet issue, too, more than once, and the sharpener ran half a day. Oops. The teeth were stubs. I swore it would never happen again, and sure enough, I did it again, about a week later.
Quote from: Southside on July 01, 2020, 06:14:17 PM
Magnet fell off once and I let one go for about two hours. She was sharp, gullet was a bit shallow, but sure was sharp..
Started out a 1 1/2" blade, ended up 3/4" blade :D
Pretty much. Have to say it's a unique feeling when you shut off the sawmill, remove your hearing protection, and hear "shinnk, shinnk, shinnk" and wonder - "what on earth is that noi.... OH DANG". I sure don't run gracefully, but I suspect I cleared more than a few hurdles worth of lumber stacks on my way over to the sharpener. :o Still have the band and a part of me wants to throw it on one day just to see what it does. ;D
While I love the BMS250, I wish they had a tooth counter, like the setter, instead of the magnet method, simply so I didnt have to count to 17 before putting the magnet on and doing something else for a few minutes.
Tips.....
Make sure the blade is positioned in the plastic guides correctly. Especially going between the wheel and the post on the last one. If blade outside the last support, rather than between post and wheel, the post holds the magnet which never makes it to the sensor.
Check the mounting and adjustment of the sensor so it is within 1/16" of the magnet and at the right height so it is centered on the magnet.
Watch out for blades that might have a kink or deformity in them, that can lead to a portion being too far away from the sensor. If you have a blade that stops prematurely, this is one that might be deformed, the sensor is a metal detector and a blade that gets too close will stop it. Not as bad as the magnet missing the sensor though.
When you put the magnet on, have the painted side away from blade.
Best not to put a blade and leave for more than about 5 minutes.
Dont forget to count to 17 and put the magnet on :)
Quote from: SawyerTed on June 28, 2020, 06:55:13 PM
FWIW, I have the same parts pile.
I added a plastic shield/blade wiper on the blade exit. It keeps the machine from spitting little drops of oil out the side.
It is a plastic coffee can lid with a slot cut in it. Held in place with a magnet.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/48503/F722AF32-CC1C-4171-9E85-F69865961E74.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1588369239)
thanks for that tip I see what ya mean spits out
Just got my sharpener the other day.
Watched a few videos of how to operate it, and have a blade on there ready to go when I next have some time.
One question I have - the CBN wheels are designed to keep things very cool when sharpening.
Additionally, the wheels touch the teeth for only a fraction of a second.
So what's the purpose of the oil? Normally it's for keeping things cool during the metal cutting process, but it seems to me that it's unnecessary in this situation.
(Yes, I'm still going to use it!)
Probably keeps the wheel clean and makes it last many times longer. It also carries away all the filings, you will find out how much that is when you go to clean it out periodically. Those filings will make a dam around the magnets and eventually the pump will suck all the oil out of the inside that little dam if the filings arent removed.
It removes the metal shavings from the wheel and lubrication is always a good thing when using an abrasive. A lot of have ditched the WM cutting oil and gone to a food grade mineral oil instead. The sharpener makes a lot of oil mist. I closed off the band inlet and outlet with brushes and have an air pump on the top to deal with the exhaust mist. Using mineral oil you stay cleaner, the mist is reduced, the stink is gone, and it's cheaper too.
Shine a light on top of the tooth and if you see a reflection it's not sharp. Works on anything chainsaws, knife, etc.
Quote from: terrifictimbersllc on January 16, 2022, 12:38:00 PM
Probably keeps the wheel clean and makes it last many times longer. It also carries away all the filings, you will find out how much that is when you go to clean it out periodically. Those filings will make a dam around the magnets and eventually the pump will suck all the oil out of the inside that little dam if the filings arent removed.
That is my understnding, is keep the wheel clean. They are not a dry run CBN wheel.
You can't blame the magnet for not stopping the blade if you forget to put it on. ;D ;D
I put the magnet on the 7th sharpened tooth as it comes out of the sharpener.
I put magnets under the tray in different places, as a metal filing "pre filter." So before any filings can get to the pump's magnets, they have to get past these other strategically placed magnets, which they can't. So that keeps the pump from running dry.
When it's time to clean the mess out, I all the magnets off the underside of the tray and reach in with rubber gloved hands and pick the the piles and put them in an open top bucket. When thy've settled for a few days, I pour the oil back in the sharpener, and the metal filings into the garbage.
Did you glue the magnets on, or are they stuck to the steel underneath the pan?
They will stick to the filings in the pan, even through they are placed underneath. If there aren't enough filings, then I will stick then where they will hold temporarily, next to the steel in the frame. I use some I got somewhere, they are round, about the size of a silver dollar, and they work fine. I put all the magnets that are in the oil, wrapped up inside a ziplock bag, so all I have to do to clean the filings off is pull the magnets out of the bag and drop it in the garbage.
When I was running the planners at the CLT plant and grinding the 26 blade heads. I used the magnetic pads like what they make the car door signs with. They stuck to the bottom of the pan on the inside and I pulled them out and used a putty knife to scrap them off in a garbage can. That may not work very well with 100% oil. We used a mixture of Aceco cutting fluid and water. I don't remember what the ratio was. Also, the pan drained into a tank , so the pad and filings were pretty dry when I cleaned them. Does the BMS250 have a separate tank for the oil to drain into?
No. The pan slides out, but do you have the little pump barricaded behind an L-shaped magnet dam in the front right corner. So to pull out the drawer one needs to either set the pump up on the deck, or lift it up so you can slide the drawer/magnet assembly underneath it. But sliding it out has to be done really evenly if you have oil an inch from the top.
i usually just pop on nitrile gloves and lift the magnets out, wiping them off in a cut off oil container. Helps to slide the tray out though because a lot of filings accumulate way in the back I'm going to try adding some other magnets underneath and see if maybe you can keep them in the front easily.
Overall its pretty quick to clean out the drawer with gloves on. just need to get the hang of building that little L-shaped dam back quickly because the magnets have polarity don't like to go where you put them if theyre not oriented right.
Like putting a cat in a cat carrier box.
Put a good exhaust fan on it. I just upgraded from what I was originally using. I'll have to get pics
Just getting ours set up, sharpened up 5, we'll see how they cut. A lot of great hacks and info here, thanks.
I would like to mount a desetter somewhere in the operation but haven't come up with anything. Anyone done this?
I am actually testing one out now that attaches to the WM setter, de-sets and sets in one pass.
Quote from: Southside on January 17, 2022, 10:46:39 PM
I am actually testing one out now that attaches to the WM setter, de-sets and sets in one pass.
I would really like to see that setup.
Great tips in here!
I just picked ours up. I am looking foreword to getting ours set up and working.
I installed brushes to sweep oil off the blades and to aid in containing the airborne mist. Both sides.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20037/20220610_135940-woodmizer-bms250mu-oil-brush-sweepers.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1655341755)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20037/20220610_134822-woodmizer-bms250mu-oil-brush-sweepers.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1655341801)
I like the brush idea.
I bought a pack of none adhesive sheet magnets. There are a couple laying in the bottom of the pan to help pick up filings. I found that they work well on the blade entrance and exit to help reduce the oil from splashing out.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/43396/C2B263A4-E7F2-4845-A753-65667D114B69.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1655350326)
I go out to my neighbours cardboard bin, It gets filled every week, bring in cardboard that I put under where the oil drips. I replace it when it when it gets a little messy.
I like the brush idea.
Probably have around 800 sharpenings on my wheel. Can't seem to adjust it for a light face grind and heavier back grind anymore. I am assuming the wheel is getting wore. So I have been doing a light face grind with one pass and adjusting for the back grind on another pass. They are getting really sharp but I assume I will be losing the blade profile.
Quote from: Unclefish on June 28, 2020, 06:01:04 PM
I will be first heres my extra parts pile.
Anyone know where they go.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/60329/20200628_142130.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1593381605)
Finally got my bms250 (after a 7.5 month wait) and I just thought I'd answer this question seen as how nobody else seemed to and it might help someone in the future.
The three little blocks with a smooth hole and a threaded hole get bolted to the sharpener body and then the blade support arms attach to them. This lets you adjust the height of the arms.
The big bracket thing is an adjustment bracket that attaches to where the CBN wheel is mounted so that you can set the blade clamp position.
The plastic pieces are meant to attach to the arms so that the blade will run on them.
And the big spacer that looks like a skinny washer is for 2in blades.
All of this is in the manual that comes with the machine but for some reason is hard to find when your actually putting everything together :P . Pretty sure I looked through that thing ten times trying to figure out what those three blocks were for and it wasn't till after I figured it out myself and was flipping through the manual that I found it 8)
Quote from: YellowHammer on June 15, 2022, 09:59:26 PM
I like the brush idea.
Update on the brush idea. Over time, the small metal fines do collect in the brushes. Sufficient enough to pull the small magnet off of the blade. In essence, the blade continues to sharpen beyond the full cycle. Problem can be resolved by dragging the magnet through the bristles on the brushes. Using a stronger magnet would also work I guess. I run two sharpeners and it only happens on the newer machine with the small magnets that came with it. The older machine I've lost one of the magnets and have replaced it with a larger one, no issues with it.
Quote from: jimbarry on October 27, 2022, 08:01:00 PM
Quote from: YellowHammer on June 15, 2022, 09:59:26 PM
I like the brush idea.
Update on the brush idea. Over time, the small metal fines do collect in the brushes. Sufficient enough to pull the small magnet off of the blade. In essence, the blade continues to sharpen beyond the full cycle. Problem can be resolved by dragging the magnet through the bristles on the brushes. Using a stronger magnet would also work I guess. I run two sharpeners and it only happens on the newer machine with the small magnets that came with it. The older machine I've lost one of the magnets and have replaced it with a larger one, no issues with it.
Jim, I loose the orange magnets all the time. What other magnets do you use?
Quote from: Stephen1 on October 30, 2022, 07:41:29 PMJim, I loose the orange magnets all the time. What other magnets do you use?
Whatever I can find. Best ones are out of old computers. Otherwise, a bag of magnets off the internet will do.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20037/20221107_131857-Woodmizer-bms250mu-coolant-jet-fix.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1667929811)
On the newer BMS250 I have here, I discovered that one of the 3 jets was not drilled through, only about half way. I couldn't figure out why there was a build up occurring on the CBN wheels. Drilled it out and problem fixed.
Do all have 3 holes or do some have 2?
I only have 2 in mine.
One clogs once in a while and I have to clean it out. But I don't see sparks when both are shooting oil.
@Stephen1 (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=3648) princess auto sells them in a bag of 40 for 16$ they're item #8712747
Here's an upgrade to the ventilation I set up for two BMS250MU units.
20230806 Upgrading the workshop ventilation - YouTube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wSPS0FyVxh8)
Jim,
If the end game is increasing flow, did you consider running straight back and through the wall? Instead of ducting it down to the window?
hugs, Brandi
Quote from: Bindian on August 09, 2023, 06:56:23 PM
Jim,
If the end game is increasing flow, did you consider running straight back and through the wall? Instead of ducting it down to the window?
hugs, Brandi
That certainly would work but I'm not looking to poke holes in the wall at this time. We're planning on putting up a dedicated building for the sharpening, so everything will get moved into it.