Does anyone know of any saw doc's in the south eastern Ohio area?
Hey Farm Mechanic,
Check/Google Jerry Albright FRICKCO, INC. & ALBRIGHT SAW CO.
South Bloomingville Oh,
D
I'll check that out. Thank you.
Well I had my saw hammered this past Thursday. Tried it out today and have a lot of wobble. Actually I believe it to be more than before hammering. What could cause this?
Check the runout on your collars?
I agree with Don P.
What are the specs on the blade
and your your mill?
D
Vary the speed and see if it runs true at a different speed might be another thing to try.
My saw collars are junk. The mandrel side collar is machined flat and actually smaller diameter than the nut side collar. I read somewhere on this forum that very old mandrel collars were actually machined flat and I'm guessing the nut side collar was a later addition. As far as the specs on the mill and blade I have no idea. I don't know what make or era the mill is from. The blade is a 44" 3 style with 24 teeth and that is all I know about it. I plan to have a set of new collars machined. Does anyone have any guidance or suggestions on that procedure?
If your collars aren't the same size, you won't get the saw to run. I know of a mill that had their collars not being the same size, and it took them a long time to figure it out. Their saw doc was the one that figured it out.
There are quite a few publications on this subject. Both Hoe and Simonds handed them out. There is one by Lundstrum, spelling incorrect, on ebay. I has a blue cover and shows a man holding a straight edge to a saw. That's the best one. You need to get it. I posted a long winded post on my knowledge of saw mandrels but every time I get long winded the post disappears.
Uh, yeah I think I did that this morning :D
I try to remember to right click, select all, copy, then hit the post button. If the computer eats it I can open the post button back up and right click then hit paste and then the post button again and it'll usually go. It happens using internet explorer, doesn't seem to happen using microsoft edge.
Does anyone have drawings or specs to get collars made? I now have a 2 7/16" mandrel and currently have a 44" saw to run. However down the road if I am able to get the bugs worked out I hope to put the 56" back on.
Pages 19 & 20 USDA "Circular Sawmills and their Efficient Operation" By S.J. Lunstrum
https://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/documnts/misc/cirsaw.pdf
D
Quote from: Don P on October 06, 2020, 05:47:43 PM
Uh, yeah I think I did that this morning :D
I try to remember to right click, select all, copy, then hit the post button. If the computer eats it I can open the post button back up and right click then hit paste and then the post button again and it'll usually go. It happens using internet explorer, doesn't seem to happen using microsoft edge.
Thanks Don, have to put my wife on it. We have microsoft edge.
The fixed collar is a big deal. It is heated and shrunk on the shaft. This is called interference fit. A machinist's hand book will give the spec's to do this. The collar is cast iron to my knowledge. It may also be keyed. The undersized hole dia. depends on the dia. of shaft. Then it goes in the lathe and the face is cut on a taper where it contacts the saw, the outer edge of collar. The taper is something like 2 to 3 thousands on a say 3/8" outer rim. The loose collar is done the same. If you fixed collar is tight [very tight] on the shaft I would keep it and go from there.
Well I just had the mandrel made this spring to match the fast collar. I heated and removed it before having the new one made. The collar is an interference fit with a dowel completely through the entire diameter of the collar and mandrel. I was just going to have a new set made, both the fast and loose collar "not sure on terminology of collars". A fresh start if I could get drawings to send to the machinist.
If I can get home in time today I will remove it from the mill and disassemble for some pictures and measurements to post. If I can save what's there that would be the most cost efficient I think. If it's salvageable.
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The pictures aren't as clear as I had hoped but it paints a better picture that my words alone. What do you all recommend I do to resolve this issue? Salvage what I have or start all over? I plant to run a 56" saw so from my research these collars aren't large enough anyways but I would like to know your thoughts.
So the loose collar is from some other mill. It is made the way, the contact area, the way the fixed collar should be. If that fixed collar is really tight it could be machined to grip the saw on it's rim. [and tapered]. Then a loose collar would have to be made to match. When I went through all this and did it all wrong, I wound up in a sawmill machine shop and had another mandrel made. They would not use a fixed collar that hade been removed or anything else. It had to be done their way with their parts. The impressive part was the way they straightened the new shaft before cutting the collars. This is a big deal if you have more than 2 bearings. That thru pin is something I have not seen. The older mills used small dia. collars , that is less than 6". Nothing wrong with your photos. You may have read that old mills had flat collars and they may have run even gage saws but tightening the collar can turn out and not hold the saw at it's rim. That's why the taper.
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Ended up getting the original collars machined to the proper dimensions. Hopefully I will have time this weekend to get it back together and see how it does.
Man you don't fool around. If that mandrel runs true, holds the saw around the outside and the saw runs cold then the most important and expensive part is done. Expect more problems but now they should be adjustments and proper saw filing. I will be out of range for the next 5 days [and I am not the only member that can help] but I can't wait the see how you make out. Doug
Tried the new saw collars out today, I still have some wobble. I will have to get the indicators out and see what's causing it. What is an acceptable amount of wobble anyways?
When its at speed very little. Try the blade 180 and see if it changes. Are the bearings self centering?
I varied the RPM the full range i could with the tractor, seemed to wobble the least at 500-540. I am not sure if the bearings are self centering, they are double tapered roller I believe. When you say try the blade 180 do you mean put it in backwards?
Loosen the nut, remove the sheer pins, rotate the saw 180° put the pins back in and reclamp. Remember to always pull out any movement by rocking the saw back before tightening. Dont over tighten!
Yup, what Jeff said better.
What I was wondering on the bearings is whether they are putting any bind or arc on the mandrel, I kind of doubt that is what's going on but look and see if there is any vibration showing in it between the bearings at speed. I just emailed the scan on Enterprise Mills.
Thanks for the help, I'll try it today and report back.
Quote from: Jeff on October 18, 2020, 08:18:51 AM
Loosen the nut, remove the sheer pins, rotate the saw 180° put the pins back in and reclamp. Remember to always pull out any movement by rocking the saw back before tightening. Dont over tighten!
Youre saying to roll the blade back opposite of rotation until it takes up all clearance and engages the dowels as if under load, right?
Quote from: Farm Mechanic on October 18, 2020, 07:37:14 AM
I varied the RPM the full range i could with the tractor, seemed to wobble the least at 500-540. I am not sure if the bearings are self centering, they are double tapered roller I believe. When you say try the blade 180 do you mean put it in backwards?
If possible, indicate the shaft runout at both ends and the center while in the bearings, and also in vee blocks. Marking the high and low readings in two different color sharpie. This will help you separate the runout in the shaft and any runout induced by the bearings.
If this issue persists and your dial indicator and machinist square cant find the issue, consider a dynamic balance test. Any (good) nearby company that services industrial hvac and conveyor/blower/collector systems should have or know who locally has the fancy balance testing equipment. I worked on blowers up to 50hp for pistol range dust collection and we subbed that out on the stuff i couldnt determine with static measurement. Hed hook up in a few minutes, power the unit up and walla... Theres your bad part making the whole hood system shake.
Try your tractor pto shaft both ways and see if that helps. If the two joint arent straight in line either dig ruts or chock up on planks until it is. Single cardan joints must be at equal angles or they cannot cancel out the acceleration rates of the different operating angles. Only a double cardan can do that. One joint bent and one joint straight wont work smooth on single cardans.
This is a friction feed mill, the drive wheel for the feed runs on the mandrel and slides back and fourth to drive the carriage. I had a new mandrel made because the original was shot, the old was 2 3/8" the new 2 7/16" so I had to have the drive wheel bored to proper diameter. I believe this wasn't not done accurately and has caused the wheel to not run true. Would this be my issue? I think it's shaking everything.
Indicate the friction wheel too.
If it was bored on a 3 jaw lathe the bore hole should be concentric to whatever surface they chucked. If they used a 4 jaw or milling machine then all bets are off as it will only be as concentric as they took the time to indicate and center it to. Could be perfect or off quite a bit.
It was bored with a milling machine.
The runout on the tight collar at the outer edge should not be more than .002. That is not to say that you could not run with more but that could require wider teeth and maybe more lead. (and more power) If you have type E bearings there is just a little self aligning. Spherical roller bearing types have alot. Between the dial indicator and different saws you will find the wobble. As you know something way out of balance on the mandrel can shake the saw. The saw will wobble bad around half speed then run true at hammered speed.
Mike,
Correct me if I am wrong but as long as the tractor pto shaft and the saw mandrel are parallel to one another The equal angles Of the u-joints should cancel out the induced velocity correct?
I can not answer that . I wonder what happens when you turn the saw with one finger and watch the guides. If something is way out of balance you would feel it in the husk. If it is the pto shaft I think you could see it . At any rate the saw must run flat at hammered speed. Did you try other saws?
Quote from: Farm Mechanic on October 23, 2020, 07:46:02 PM
Mike,
Correct me if I am wrong but as long as the tractor pto shaft and the saw mandrel are parallel to one another The equal angles Of the u-joints should cancel out the induced velocity correct?
If the joints and slip shafting are tight, the joints clocked together, shaft straight, and both output and input shafts parallel to each other so that the operating angle at each joint is the same [typically equal and opposite] then yes, the shaft acceleration rates should cancel each other and run smooth.
My father has a very short dragster with a driveline issue where the car feels like the brakes are dragging and you cant push it with driveshaft in. Take shaft out and a kid can roll it. The bind has worn out a pinion and tailhousing bushing.
Try putting your pto in neutral and turning the saw blade with the shaft on and shaft off. See if theres much difference in effort, difference in coast down time and any feel of cogging between the two conditions. Hopefully that validates your driveline.
I have a total blade run out at the rim of the saw of .036". The two extreme points are 180 degrees apart from one another. I indicated the shaft at the collar and it is perfect.
I have .010" of run out at the center of the saw. I guess I need to remove the blade and check the newly machined collar.
Mill saws are not perfect. I think your saw run out is acceptable . The man who hammers a saw has a certain amount of trade off between perfect flatness and equal tension. One of my saws is new and is no better than 2 of my older saws. If it looks good to the eye running between the guides is is good as far as being true.
So runout Of .036" is acceptable? Also the saw is cutting towards the carriage a little. When it finishes the cut it will have about 3/8" gap between the can't and the blade. The bits are all new and the lead is approximately 1/16". What else could cause this?
Sometimes the lead measurement is not telling you everything so take a little lead out. Always check for heat in the saw especially the center. Sounds like you are almost there. It would be best to saw short [8'] straight softwood logs at this time because the other kind spring while being sawn and this will confuse you.
If you mark it up you can paper shim it closer to see if that affects it.
There are so many little things the will cause the saw to run off or appear to that no man could name them all. Things like sawdust being pulled back up in the cut or a little sun light hitting one side of the blade. Saw deep, big logs, with certain style saws will saw in every time. Some feeds will spring the mandrel and change the lead when pulling hard on the stick [ the crowd]. My sawmill will do this when gigging back and rub the saw on the log indicating trouble that is not there. A wood carriage can rack while in use. A cable feed not pulling straight is a really bad thing and will wear the guide wheels out quick. Most of all is the corners of the teeth. Most beginners can't see this. A few chipped [can be very small chips] teeth on one side and the saw pulls the other way. May not happen in all logs but will happen. Watch everything while sawing. Backing the carriage while sawing will show you where the saw is going in. Don't let the saw saw out as the log will have no clearance and rub the saw bad, heat it and start to ruin the last hammering job. Keep posting.
Note to self: never buy a circle saw problem.
I'm going to pull the blade and check collar run out
and report back shortly.
The out side rim of the fast collar has an approximate run out of .0025".
Quote from: Don P on October 25, 2020, 09:28:18 AM
If you mark it up you can paper shim it closer to see if that affects it.
If the collars are not tapered [I think you said they where done correctly ] oiled paper rings can be used to make the collars only grip the saw around the outside. Or you can do one side or the other. The saw is not supposed to move in the guides when the nut is tightened . But I am thinking the collars are fixed and it's the adjustments of the husk to carriage causing it to saw in. If in fact the mandrel, it's collars and bearings [are running cool] are correct or very close to it then that part is done.
Well bad news, after I checked the collars I notice some old build up at the eye of the saw, so I wire wheeled it clean and re installed. I then indicated the blade and now have double the run out at the rim, around .070". It wobbles very bad at full rpm now. I am not sure what's going on but i am going backwards not forward with this project now. The blade was just hammered.
Darn. The very eye of the saw does not touch any thing so build up and rust mean nothing there. Only the outer rim of the collars touch leaving the eye to float. The run out of the collar [the fixed collar] can be as much as 2 thousands where it grips the saw and that part of the saw should be sanded clean both sides. Can you try another saw or rig up another way to spin the mandrel, in the air, to eliminate the pto shaft?
I didn't describe that very well. The build up was where the collars clamp the saw.
I presume the saw runs flat at tractor idle and slightly above and then starts to wave back and forth. And then it should straighten up at say 450 and up to 540. If you had it hammered all this would have been discussed. The run out you are finding i s not the big problem right now. When you sawed what happened? If the saw did not heat or wobble bad but ran in 3/8" at the end of the log then you are close. To put a mill together with a perfect mandrel and decent saw and just start cutting would be a miracle. To try it out and almost be able to cut a straight line would be a good start. Imagine a guy who is not a mechanic trying to do what you are. Perhaps you need to paper the collars. I would like to see that saw run at 540 on a test mandrel to prove it could run flat if only in the air. I have gone so far as to take a saw to another mill to test it. Gotta go do some work til dark.
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I was able to saw a decent load of lumber last evening but the wobble bothers me. The boards are true for the most part. When I try to saw a wide board, the full width of the blade that is when the saw heads towards the carriage which I believe is the lead but I don't think I can reduce lead with the blade wobble. So my plan was to eliminate or reduce wobble and then fine tune lead.
F.M. you are doing much better than I thought. The deeper cuts will test you. With a coarse tooth saw and a max. cut the saw will often saw in. Gigging back along the saw tells alot. The real test is the last board thickness. Also the face of the turned cant. There are so many factors. I would stop worrying about the collars. Another thing, Are you using stand all teeth? I don't like them but on a low powered mill in hardwood they can make a big difference.
Yes I am using stand all bits. With the wobble now after cleaning the saw and doubling the run out I don't think I'll be able to saw. I think my issue is the blade. The saw doc that hammered it did not have a test mandrel or any way to check run out. He just used a straight edge and tension gauge and said it was good. I do have an F pattern 48" saw With 42 teeth I can try but I know I won't have enough power to run it properly or at least I don't think.
Does the saw wobble in the cut?
Yes it does wobble in the cut.
Like Don P. mentioned, paper shim between the fixed collar and saw. I have never done it. They say oil the paper so it sticks where you put it. Gasket paper maybe. Is sounds like your saw is not true.
What kind of paper do I use? how thick?
I think I have a bent saw that didn't get corrected during hammering.
Quote from: Farm Mechanic on October 26, 2020, 12:49:55 PM
What kind of paper do I use? how thick?
Manila envelop ? Say a third of the circle to attempt to shim the blade wobble out. Not really the thing to do but if you make it run straight it would show you for sure what's wrong. You have the mag. base dial indicator so a pair of scissors and some oil, I would try it if I only had one saw.
I think I have a total of 7 saws I could try. Would it be better to try a different saw before paper shimming? I do not know what shape the other saws are in. I just picked the one that looked the best and required the least Amount of horsepower, installed new bits, had it hammered and here we are.
What we both need is a 4' straight edge. You would stand a saw up vertical and see how flat it is on the log side. Most old saws I have found are missing teeth [shoulders] or are dished away from the log meaning they where run long past needing hammering or got wedged in an accident. The saw you are using, every time you handle it, hold it at the top and shake it. While this won't make you or I an expert it will give you a feel for the tension you need in a saw. If your saw is stiff and it should be to run tractor pto, and you grab one that is floppy in the center you mill won't spin it fast enough to stretch it flat. [ or something like that]. Try anything that looks like it might work. It's easy to waste time, I do it every day.
I'll straight edge some saws and start trying then. In the meantime I will see if the saw hammerer can take another look at the one they hammered that still wobbles. Long term plan is to put the F pattern 48" saw on. What kind of horse power would I need to run this saw properly? I realize I need to make the mill saw great before I get too ahead of my self but I want to be on the lookout for a power unit, jack shaft and bearings. The best time to find something is when you don't need it.
Thanks for all the help by the way. I know everyone is busy and posting advice and helping out is not a short task. Your efforts are very much appreciated.
You have the power to run one of the other saws in air and in smaller or softer wood, that will help narrow down whether it is blade or mandrel. The runout on the fast collar from memory "should" be within 3 thousandths so that seems good but how it works while its running is the real tell. It sounds like you are close to having it.
I used a paper shim in the past on an old mill. I only used a piece or 2 of paper out of a pocket notebook. It worked okay. My saw doc discouraged the method, as it doesn't solve where your problem is located and didn't let your collars touch the saw the way it is designed to. I'll also note that the mill I used it on had old collars. I checked the collar contact by putting chalk on the collar, and mounting the saw. Then, took it off to see how much of the collar is contacting the saw.
One thing I used to figure out which side to put the paper on was to mark each tooth on the saw when it was stopped. I opened the saw guides so nothing was rubbing the saw. The, you simply mark each tooth with an -, o, or +. The - moves away from the log side guide, the + moves toward, the o is in the middle. Add a plus as it gets closer to the guide or a - as you go away. At the farthest point, you'll have some ++ or --. Use more if you like. But, you'll have your saw mapped out as to where the wobble is coming from. If I remember, I shimmed on the - side of the saw at the collar.
What kind of tractor do you have powering it? How much horsepower?
I'm not an expert by any means, but I have a International UD 14A with supposedly 75 hp on a PTO powering a 48 in F style blade with 48 teeth. It does fine in pine and poplar and starts struggling with oak.
I'd probably try that 48 F with 42 teeth.
Ron,
I talked to the company who hammered the saw today and he's going to look and see if he has a decent saw to loan me while he fixes mine. So hopefully that will be the tell tale. I still might try other saws this weekend just to see how they do.
Rigg,
I currently am powering the mill with a Massey Ferguson 270, About 55 pto hp I believe.
What would cause my saw to heat in the center?
I had a 44" saw that did pretty well just wobbles a bit even after 2 hammerings. I then had a 48" saw hammered and put it on and it doesn't wobble at all but it is warming in the center. What all issues could be causing this?
Quote from: Farm Mechanic on November 29, 2020, 02:42:52 PM
I had a 44" saw that did pretty well just wobbles a bit even after 2 hammerings. I then had a 48" saw hammered and put it on and it doesn't wobble at all but it is warming in the center. What all issues could be causing this?
Either there is bearing heat or the saw plate is touching something. Get your point and click thermometer out and start that mill up cold and figure it out. Don't saw, just let in run at sawing speed and see if the bearing warms up and if this'heat' migrates into the saw around or in the collar. As little as 4 degrees can throw the saw off. If that doesn't do anything saw and check again. It takes almost nothing to warm the saw center. Logs that spring before you can turn them or logs that saw hairy. The swedge or set in the teeth is everything, more so than sharpness.
One more thought is look at your sawdust, is it small chips or fine dust. If you're spilling fine dust it can heat things up too.
Could be not enough lead. Also not running as fast as its hammered for. Teeth?
Something wedged where its not supposed to be? Board splitter not lining up right?
Nothing wedged rubbing the blade, I just put new teeth in. I'm running between 540 and 600. Was supposedly hammered for 540 it seems to run the truest a little over 540. This is the first time I have used this saw. The 44" sawed great under the same conditions, just wobbles a bit but never heated. I might note the 44" had 24 teeth and the 48" has 44. I am under powered and have to use the slowest carriage feed speed. I sawed a walnut log and it did great, then I tried to saw an ash and that's when the trouble started. Lead seems to be okay, not sawing towards the carriage or rubbing the log on the back side, also the bearings stay cool.
Teeth have to be really sharp especially for Ash if its dry.
My Lucas blades will heat a little sawing dry ash.
Did you confirm your collars are good?
D
Yes, collars checked out good.
Look at your dust, I'd bet you slowed down and spilled fine dust out of the gullet alongside the blade and it caused friction. Ash is tough, also look at the teeth and shanks for buildup.
I will check all of this hopefully tomorrow and report back. Thanks for the advice.
Ash springs bad. Also can gum up the teeth. Do you have a sawdust conveyer of some type or really deep pit? you can't let the saw pick the sawdust back up. Sounds like you got past some of the problems and are starting to tune things in.
Drag chain
I did notice I guess what was guming, I didn't know what it was, the teeth weren't touching the log or the board on the back side but it was throwing dust back. Must have been guming.
That sounds like the saw was leading in, in other words bending a little towards the log, then standing straight on the gig back leaving a little space between the saw and log. This can happen on a sawmill that is set properly for any number of reasons. The last board thickness tells the story. When sawing hardwoods, especially small dia. or poor form there is so much going on that it overwhelms the beginner who is concentrating on the basics like not sawing the dogs or getting hit in the face while trying to watch the saw line. Learning to set up a sawmill and use it takes time. Many will give up. I don't know how those not mechanically inclined can do it but you know they say you can't beat a man who won't quit.
Worn trucks on a carriage can do that too. But, I'm more inclined to not enough lead. Lead is not a number etched in stone. I had one mill that needed 3/8" lead. It sounds like it is too much, but that is what it took to get the saw to saw straight. Change saws and the lead requirement might change.
I think I'll check lead and try to find a straight poplar log or something soft just to check things before I go to far. The old ash log may be better served as fire wood. Thanks for the help, I'll report back.
Quote from: Ron Wenrich on December 01, 2020, 10:55:36 AM
Worn trucks on a carriage can do that too. But, I'm more inclined to not enough lead. Lead is not a number etched in stone. I had one mill that needed 3/8" lead. It sounds like it is too much, but that is what it took to get the saw to saw straight. Change saws and the lead requirement might change.
'change saws and the lead requirement might change' I don't challenge this statement myself but I have known those who would. The lead mill that operated in this area from the mid fifties until 3 years ago [burned and rebuilt] never touched the lead after in was proven. They did have one saw they could never run. The famous Bruce Dexter said set it and forget it. I used to play with the lead all the time using poor saws. When I got hooked up with the right saw hammer man everything [except bearing heat] got straightened out. I finally got the bearing under control and I currently run 4 saws and never touch the lead.
I'm still not positive I have a properly hammered saw. The 44" has been hammered twice and still will not run true. The 48" does run true but I will most likely have to replace half the teeth with worn ones due to lack of power unless I run across a power unit sooner. I wish the 44" would run true because it sawed perfectly in red oak other than the excessive wobble. I don't know what to do with it I have a good bit of money tied up in it and I hate to keep making the drive to the saw doc with no better result.
I sure am glad I have you all to talk to about this. Most people my age don't know what a circular mill is let alone how to adjust, operate, trouble shoot etc.
A big problem here is that there are so few circle saw mechanics. As in all professions just a few are very good. I believe production circle sawmills purchase more new saws than they should. It cost me time, money and frustration over a period of time to have my attitude about this. I should have learned to hammer myself when I was physically able to flip big saws over all day. But I would have never hammered enough to really get good at it. You can't do everything. There are men who can make a saw run and there are a very few who can make it look like it's not running when it is.
Well I think I figured out my problem. The steel shims between the wooden husk and pillow block bearings allowed movement and the lead to decrease and caused the center to heat. I removed the shims, realigned the bearings, reset the lead and it seems to be okay. I closely monitored temperatures and the saw stayed cool the entire time however I was sawing poplar and not a crooked ash log.
Happy new year Farm Mechanic. It is really good to read your latest post. You are one of the very few who paid attention to details and kept going forward. What you have done is what it takes to get an old sawmill sawing again. The problems you had are typical and in my mind to be expected. Hope to here from you again, Doug
Thanks for the support!
The next item of business is to set up a power unit. I found a 6-71 Detroit in a Lima drag line it appears to have a reduction reversing air clutch which would be great if the rpm turns out right, still have some investigating to do on that. I feel like the 6-71 would be too much power for my set up is what deters me from this engine. I have also found a 3-53 Detroit with just a hand clutch which I would have to rig up a jack shaft and reduction pulleys to get rpm and rotation right. What are you all's thoughts?
I had a 671 Detroit diesel on a corley circle mill about 35 years ago. Plenty of power and easy to understand, never gave me a bit of trouble, in fact it still powers the mill which is down the road about 5 miles. After reading all the posts about saw wobble, blade hammering and mandrel collars I am glad I just have to flip a lever and pop a new band blade on my woodmizer and get back to cutting logs.
I think a 353 would be a little under-powered, rated at 70 HP continuous duty,
Glad you found your gremlin,
Happy New Year
D
I am thinking the 3-53 turned around and belted to a shaft connected to your mandrel would do if the max. torque rpm matched the mandrel [hammered speed] you need. That way you get all the power the engine has.
What are the disadvantages of too much power such as the 6-71?
Them normal answer to that question is, like a dragster, no such thing as too much power. With the 6-71 you want the spec's for that serial range. Somewhere it will tell you how slow it can be run [like all day]. So we as always need that 'hammered rpm' while the big engine is running at that low, if recommend, speed. Because it will use less fuel and make less noise.
We ran a 671 on a Jackson portable and we ran a hydraulic unit off of it. The hydraulics were used to run the edger. Hydraulics can also be used to run off bearers, automated dumps, green chains, blowers, dust drags, etc. Depends how efficient you want to be.
I also ran a mill with a 371. It had adequate power for the mill and what we were sawing. But, there wasn't any excess power for other operations.
The 671 costs more to overhaul but like ron said youve got a whole mess of auxiliary ponies for blower, greenchain, turner etc.
Good points!
I might add that the unit is already on a skid with radiator aux hydraulic pump and air compressor. Not sure if any of that works but it's there. I think after reading your all's comments the 6-71 makes more sense, even though it is over kill for what I'm doing now if I ever add or upgrade the mill I will already have the power.
Well, when august rolls around and your soggy drawers are stuck up your butt that air nozzle will feel pretty good!
;)
I was told all my life to treat a air nozzle like a gun, they are dangerous.
Quote from: mike_belben on January 01, 2021, 07:09:38 PM
Well, when august rolls around and your soggy drawers are stuck up your butt that air nozzle will feel pretty good!
;)
You wear drawers in August? :)
D
Not always.