After considering if I should get a log arch or a skidding winch, I decided to get the log arch. Since my main use is intended to be moving saw logs already cut to length from where the tree is felled to where I will saw it without tearing up my yard or field, I felt this was the best way to go. I intend to pick up one end with the arch and the other with the 3 point lift on my tractor, then drive to where I want the log to go with it entirely off the ground. My first attempt at this was with a 24" diameter SYP about 13' long. Sawlogcalc shows that log to be 2100#, but I think it is a little more than that since I can't pick it up with my FEL (supposedly 2500# capacity). Anyway, I tried to get the log arch (Logrite fetching arch) hooked up on the small end, but it will not hook up far enough down on the log to lift it off the ground at all. It lifts high enough for the tongs to get tight, but thats it. I cant get the tongs to hook up lower down on the log no matter what I do because the curve in the tongs closest to the top contacts the log and prevents the tongs from closing any lower. Here is a picture of the best I could do:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/56423/Forwarding_arch.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1603924867)
Here is a picture with the same size tongs on the 3 point lift, except the log is larger than 24":
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/56423/log_tongs_on_lift.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1603925501)
My first assumption is that I am doing something wrong. If I am, please correct me. If not, I would like to hear some ideas to get this setup to work. I did have a couple ideas, but one will cost me money and time (taller tires), and the other is cutting slots in the log for the curve of the tongs to fit in. I would like to avoid spending any more money or butchering the log before I even get it to the mill. I'll do enough butchering once it is on the mill.
For that size log get rid of the tongs and use a chain, move the arch off the log then roll the log over your chain, tilt the arch, hook the chain tight and lift.
Pick up the log and put a piece of something under it. Disconnect the tongs and arch. Wrap a chain around the log and and with the arch tipped up, attach the chain as tight as you can to the same place as the tongs on the arch. Bungy the tongs out of the way and lift the log.
I have a winch on my fetching arch which makes it easy. Hardly use the tongs at all.
My arch (not a good one like yours) uses a winch and that works just fine. I have replaced the cheapy with a better 5,000# hand winch after the first one blew up/fell apart.
A nice arch like that and you should be able to rig a winch for both front and back. You will find the winch is a pretty quick lift and easy to work with.
Nice arch, wish I had one.
I also have the winch attachment; it just does not work well for the way I am trying to rig this up. The hitch attachment with the winch will not allow the arch to be parallel to the ground and in a straight line with the log at the same time. I can try the winch option with the hitch facing aft, but I don't want the hitch dragging either. This arch does not have an attachment for a chain. I think it used to, but no more. They have a chain attachment accessory I guess I need to get. Thanks for the input so far.
That's some nice SYP, exactly what I use for my vertical grain flooring and clapboard siding. Hope you have a good home for it.
I try to attach the first set of tongs slightly behind the weight center of the log, so when I start lifting with a come-a-long the rear of the log comes off the ground first. Then the front of log can be lift with a boat winch so the whole log is off the ground and can be moved around with a riding lawn tractor. My yard is flat so it works good. As mentioned earlier if you can get a chain around it, that is safer than tongs. Generally, if the a log fits inside the arch, I can move it.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/25201/IMG_20130603_125905_278.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1370731821)
You don't need a special chain attachment, if you cant just lay the chain over the same spot that the tongs hook then stick the chain through the ring of the tongs and flip the tongs aside, you do need a chain with a grab hook but most tow/log chains have them on at least one end.
@Southside (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=24297), that tree made two good logs. The other three "logs" are not logs according to the definition Yellowhammer put out because I don't think they will roll:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/56423/logs.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1603971105)
Branching started at about 28 ft up the tree. This tree was on the edge of a field and had a lot of branches, all of which I have to clean up and chip or burn.
The good logs are destined to become B+B siding for one of my barns.
Does your arch list a log size capacity? I'm guessing you're approaching it or already exceeding it with that log.
24" diameter, 2000 lb capacity. This log is 24" diameter, and only picking up one end should be well under 2000 lb.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/56423/24_inches.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1603972800)
I'm on the record as deciding an arch wasn't suitable for my terrain. I built a good one, tried it and later sold it. On steep slopes where the tree is felled an arch is tough to move around if nigh impossible. That makes the deciding factor how the log will get to a skid road where an arch would obviously excel when skidding with a small machine.
Another factor is too decide if there are enough logs to even justify spending the money on means to move the logs when there are people who'd do it for you in most areas given a short termed project. Much the same decision as: "do I need a back hoe sitting around"? My answer has always been to hire some machines and own others.
One guess why nobody owns an arch in my area of steep slopes.
I don't know of anyone in my area that uses a arch besides me. However, the power company transports utility poles with one.
Highway vs. back in the woods thing for a power line user, not like you can "skid power poles". On the right terrain they make sense for some users, no doubt about it.
Out here in the northwest, loggers used arches in very rough, steep ground. I only pulled an arch that had the heavy track system on it, was less top heavy than the arches with rubber tires. We were pulling them with TD25's and D8's. The ground I worked on was the Coast range out of Coos Bay, Oregon.
We have lift-off. I used a chain and it did the trick. I didn't want to twist the log tong ring picking up these logs, so I ordered the chain hook attachment to put in place of the tongs, and that worked out well. Thanks for all the advice.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/56423/20201103_121634.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1604444169)
Glad it is where you can use the arch now. Good knowledge shared here!
Cape Fear River in back ground?
Close. That is our pond in the background. I hope to have time to take advantage of it someday.
Making your equipment more useful/versatile is a good thing!