Finally getting around to working on the old Timberking/Belsaw mill. Cut a few boards just to do it once I had the starter for the powerplant rebuilt. Now on to replacing all the bits. I attached a photo of the old vs new bits, hadn't seen a new one before so I didn't quite realize how bad they were. So far I have replaced about 10 of the 52 but I bent the pin for the bit wrench real bad. Sprayed the bits and shanks with WD-40 for a couple days before attempting it. They are still pretty stuck in there. Any good ideas for getting them loose? The ones I replaced had the shoulders cleaned up good and some light oil applied so it won't be so terrible in the future.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/45407/New_Old_Saw_Bit~0.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1608063093)
after spraying with WD-40 I always used an allen wrench for a pin and tapped the wrench with a hammer to get them started out. I didn't know a tooth could be run that short.
I used to grind a gullet under the point so I could swedge and start over again. The man who hammered for me hollerd at me for running short teeth. He claimed it pounded the shoulders back and shortened the life of the saw. He also hated stand all teeth for the same reason. Had a man from NYC, actually from the Dominican Republic , looking for a box of teeth for his sawmill in his homeland. He brought a sample. It was too short to describe. I had him send me pictures of his set up. It was a big old hand set mill with no feed what so ever. You guessed it, they where hand pushing the carriage. Sad part is that I had all the parts here to make it power feed but he either did not understand or could not arrange to ship it down there.
I always found that short teeth slowed down my feed rate. It was more profitable to toss teeth that others may have scrooged for many more days. I had an associate that called such things as jumping over dollars to save dimes. It was one of those things that stick with you for a long time.
I replace one bit at a time to reduce the chance of altering the saw tension. Thats one tip. They also seem to change out easier after an hour or so of sawing to get everything up to temp.
If you strike the tool use a wooden or soft faced hammer, it is cast. The pin will break on you at some point, I like the idea of an allen or something hardened. Don't wrap your hand around the handle though, keep an open palm so that when the pin does break your knuckles don't go into the teeth below you. I do them one by one as well, clean and oil the shank and blade groove as you install each one and tap the shank in the gullet when I'm done with the tool in the area just below the tool head to make sure it is seated well.
I used Blue Creeper on the saw shanks before I removed them. I usually changed bits after lunch, while the rest of the guys finished up. I put it on before I went to lunch, and came back 15-20 min later. No problems, but I changed bits almost weekly, so things weren't as tight.
Other things I have done is to hit the saw bit with a hammer on the tip. You'll be throwing it away anyways. Sometimes that helps to loosen up the shank. You can also hit the shank by putting your saw wrench in the socket and hitting with a hammer. Similar to setting the shanks after you've put in a bit. This seems to help your penetrating oil to soak in a little further.
Thanks for all of the good tips. Already broke a few allen wrenches :-\ They are in there pretty good, I think the last time the saw was actually run was over 15 years ago. I cut a few boards off an old log just to do it once I got the engine running. It cut terribly and I see why now. Already made the mistake of wrapping my hand around the handle and scraped my knuckles, luckily I was working towards the short dull teeth though so it wasn't more than a couple scrapes. Ordered some Blue Creeper yesterday off the advice of another forum member. I should be able to get them done over the next couple days. Thanks again, I will let you know how it goes with all 52.