Hello, I am looking at a 201 C and I am thinking this is the right choice for me, but I am a little bit worried about the C part of this saw. Does the timing and carburetor control system act as a trim function for the saw engines performance, or can it fail and cause a no start or such poor performance to make the saw useless. I see that there are updates that the dealer can perform on the software, but what happens when they stop supporting the software due to age of the saw. Does this system make the carburetor more expensive to rebuild or replace? Does it have mechanical back up to timing control? Or am I worrying about a system that is solid and reliable and no need to worry about it? How long has Stihl been using this version of emission control? I tend to keep my tools around as long as I can. I still run a Stihl 066 Magnum I bought new in 1990 and a Husqvarna 266XP from 1985. My saws are used weekly, but not daily.
The plan for the 201C is to help reduce the use of the 339XP. I wanted a light weight saw, short bar and reliable performance.
Thank you for taking the time to read my post.
David
Well how about a different question. What are the thoughts on the CS2511P Echo ($399.00) for a lightweight trim on the ground saw? Or for the added weight and larger engine is the 439XP ($410.00 ?)or 201C ($700.00) a better choice? Kicking around which way would be a good investment.
Regarding the 201C, it's the M you're concerned about. C is for comfort. Not sure what that really means these days. AV is pretty much standard. The M is for Mtronic, which is the computer control of the saw. I have two Mtronic saws, and no problems. You don't have to fool with it. Unless you have some highly unusual needs, the computer will handle tuning under changing conditions. If something happens to the computer, I believe Stihl is the only one that can fix it. As far as the future goes, your guess is as good as mine. Mtronic hasn't been around long enough to get "vintage" or "antique" status.
Regarding the cs2511p. I have the top handle version, and it's my favorite saw. Dependable, and a good runner within its range. It's 25cc, so it has limits, but the lightness makes up for it. You can bury the 12" bar, but you'll have to exercise patience, and don't force it. ≤8" is it's ideal cutting range.
Thank you for the information. I appreciate the input. I was worried about the computer control system when the selling dealer mentioned updates to the software. Sounds like it is a system I do not need to worry about. The dealer has the 2511P coming in the first week of February. I have never owned an Echo product, but with the reviews I am willing to give the little saw a try. I am most interested in the weight savings.
I bought the MS151 TC for a lightweight top handle saw that does not have the Mtronic. It's comparable to the echo, but probably costs more.
It's a well built saw and light.
A local dealer close to my shop has a 151ce and cs-2511p so I can check both out and see what I think. Thanks snobdds for the information on the 151.
My wife picked up and handled the Echo 2511P her comment "I could use and handle this"! Excellent now I have a helper.
I use a 201T CM at work and it's a great little saw. I have seen mention of the non-top handle 201 and that could be quite handy. While I'm sure the weight is minuscule I would opt for a 261 if I was getting a traditional rear handle saw. With the rear handle I would think the 201 would be very easy to bog down and have a saw that appears to be less than acceptable. With the top handle you really can't do that.
About your question...we have several saws with the M-tronic feature and have never had a problem with them.
Clark
Thank you Clark, I appreciate the added information.
lxskllr,
On your 2511 Top handle. Does it have the summer / winter slide to close off the air vents to reduce air circulation and retains more heat near the carburetor and intake. I noted this feature on the 2511P. I suspect it is to control carburetor icing. I cut in Minnesota and Cut often in cold weather, which is nice working weather. Typically I do not run into running issues, but thought maybe this small engine is not producing enough heat an Echo thought this feature was needed. Also did you leave the spur sprocket or switch it to rimmed? Echo bar or Oregon? I see there are updated chain options coming out to replace the Low Profile 3/8" .050"
Thank you,
David
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Good question! I happened to sitting near my manual for the saw and looked. It has a shutter. I haven't used it yet. Just kinda forget about that stuff til I have a problem and remember. It hasn't given me any problems, but it isn't saw I'm running constantly, so perhaps it doesn't have a chance to ice up. It's also a constrained chassis, so it might warm itself enough when it's turned off to keep it going when restarted. I had it out a month ago doing a fair amount of work in a tree, and it was probably 34°F. No problems.
I'm not sure if a rim is available for this saw in 3/8lp. That would be something I'd be interested in. I asked once about this, or maybe my cs400, and was told it's too small to use a rim. Dunno. Doesn't entirely make sense to me, but I didn't find one in a quick search, so I dropped the idea. I might look again. A spur isn't the worst thing in the world, but I prefer rims.
I use a WoodlandPro bar on it. It has a broader nose, so it makes boring a little easier. That's a discount brand from Baileys. I use them on all my small saws. I like them better than the stock bars. They aren't anything amazing, but they're at least as good as the stock bars, which also aren't amazing.
1/4" pitch is kinda popular with arborists for the smaller kerf, and smoother cut, but I like the robustness of 3/8lp, and I have all the stuff to support that size. I use Stihl pm chain. The stock chain was some kind of Oregon(can never remember their numbering), and it was grabby/chattery til it was worn in a bit. I'm not a fan of Oregon chain anyway, and I especially didn't like that particular chain on this saw.
Ran three tanks of fuel through the 2511P and two though the 339xp. I have no complaints about that little 25cc Echo yet. Lots of plastic on it, but it cuts nice, runs and idles great. You can stall the chain if it's buried in red oak, but you have to try to do it. I was impressed with it today. My back was happy with the under 6 lb Echo.
Echo 2511P
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I did run the Echo with the vents in the winter mode. Sunday I will switch it to Summer and see if it idles or runs any different.
Cute little things, aren't they? A real joy to use, and barely like work.
Quote from: lxskllr on January 23, 2021, 06:36:02 PM
Cute little things, aren't they? A real joy to use, and barely like work.
Reminds me of a Lady Bug. But it does cut!
used my little cs 271t to put hash marks on a downed tree i was going to buck up .--one hand on 20" stick , the other on the 271---real handy for that. ****( i think echo hijacked this topic )****
Quote from: CUT N RUN on January 23, 2021, 06:50:55 PM
used my little cs 271t to put hash marks on a downed tree i was going to buck up .--one hand on 20" stick , the other on the 271---real handy for that. ****( i think echo hijacked this topic )****
Yes I think I used a poor choice for a thread title. I was looking for a lite weight saw to replace the 339XP. But after reading and researching I think the cs261c-m would be better for me than the 201c. The 339XP is a whole different story, dealer sold be the wrong carb kit.
I was able to edit the thread title.
Once I saw the thread title change adding Echo I had to read it! ;D
I am a fan of a small saw for certain work. I have a CS341 I have had for a while and it is great. If Something should happen to it I would check out the 2511 as I have heard good things about them. Nothing against Stihl but from my use the
Echo fits the bill and keeps the 'bill' a bit lower! :)
I use Stihl for big saws and echo for little. I like both, and it gives me a chance to use both. On consumer level saws, I suspect echo has the higher quality. I get the feeling you pay a Stihl tax to get orange and white colors made in China. AFAIK, all echo's stuff is made in Japan.
Disclaimer:
I've never used a consumer Stihl saw, and only held one long enough to sharpen a chain for someone else, but based on manufacturing I've seen elsewhere, premium names command premium prices, even when it isn't deserved. IOW, some of the money you pay is going towards the sticker on the side, and not the stuff *inside* that matters.
That's a cool looking small saw; thanks for the pics. Probably a great little saw for breaking down tops.
Just curious, but what avg size wood to you like to cut with that? And what do you think the upper end is for that saw? And do you have anything in between that and the 266; it's quite a gap. (and an excuse to have another saw of course)
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15° F and run the 2511 with air vents is summer mode. It has a very slight hesitation on throttle up from idle to wide open throttle that is not apparent when vents are in the winter position. I do not think this is carburetor icing, but more of an air/fuel flow that is affected by the warmer intake air hanging around the carb and air filter as it revs up.
Quote from: Spike60 on January 24, 2021, 11:01:34 AM
That's a cool looking small saw; thanks for the pics. Probably a great little saw for breaking down tops.
Just curious, but what avg size wood to you like to cut with that? And what do you think the upper end is for that saw? And do you have anything in between that and the 266; it's quite a gap. (and an excuse to have another saw of course)
I have a Stihl 066 with 20" and 32" bars.
The Husqvarna 266xp has 18" and 20"
The Husqvarna 339xp in 13"
Echo 2511 with 12".
Also a Polan Pro, Craftsman and a small old green saw. All of them work and cut, but nothing compares to the pro saws for getting the work done with less fatigue.
Have a Husqvarna pole saw also.
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I cut for firewood to heat with. Try to keep the dead falls under control. Been in the same place since 1985 and I never run out of fire wood. I help the neighbors with the ones that need to come down or the ones the wind takes down.
Helping the neighbor type of job. My help and equipment for the firewood. I like the trade off. Cutting and splitting is good for me. I am relaxed when doing this type of work and enjoy it.
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That lift is pretty fancy. How do you come to have that as a non pro? Use it for your regular job, or have it just cause it's useful?
Rented the lifts when needed. I have only needed the lifts on 4 trees that were too close to homes. Otherwise I have space to drop them. If I am not comfortable with where I need to drop it, then I use a lift. Tornado clean up is also a common task.
The 2511P makes easy work of the cuts under 7" diameter. If you need to cut larger diameter it will do it, but a bigger saw is a better tool for that type of work. I had to sharpen the chain today. My fault for the chain damage. We had a fresh 5" of snow last night and I went to work on a pile of red oak that had been piled with a grappler. I did not know or see the 1/2 diameter braided cable till the damaged had been done. Mad at myself. But 5 minutes with a 5/32" file and back to work.
Quote from: Spike60 on January 24, 2021, 11:01:34 AM
That's a cool looking small saw; thanks for the pics. Probably a great little saw for breaking down tops.
Just curious, but what avg size wood to you like to cut with that? And what do you think the upper end is for that saw? And do you have anything in between that and the 266; it's quite a gap. (and an excuse to have another saw of course)
So Spike you get enabling points!
Found a Husqvarna 550XP MII Should fill the void between the 39cc 339XP and the 66cc 266XP Will test drive it on Saturday on firewood.
I should just quit reading these posts! I thought between my 044 and 261 Stihls I'll never need or want anything else for my firewood cutting BUT now I just might need that 2511P for the 5" and under stuff. I could probably just put it with the others in the shed and she wouldn't even know. :D
So the Echo 2511P has this feature that you use the pull start handle as a tool to aid in removal of the gas and oil caps for refueling. I thought it was silly. Well guess what. I find myself using that silly feature!
Have not even fired up the Husqvarna 550XP. Been working this little Echo. Three more tanks through it today. So far it is doing what I wanted it for. 1" to 7" is a great range of diameter for this saw cutting red oak. In that range there is no stalling the chain. Bar length and greater you need to let the weight of the saw do the cut. With pressure it will stall the chain. To recap, I am happy so far. More time will tell.
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38 seconds for that cut.
Finally set the 2511P down and started using the 550XP. Not trying to compare the two as they are in different class as far as intended use. Twice the cc displacement, and twice the weight. But 1/2 the cutting time through the same logs. So in my younger days the 550XP could be an all day saw. But now I need the weight reduction for my back.
I do like the flip up gas and oil caps. Easy to use.
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16 seconds for cut in same log as the 2511P cut.
Makes more sense to use the correct tool for the job and know when to switch saws.
Have you opened up the muffler yet? On youtube cut times went from 17 seconds to 11 second by opening up the muff. Steve
I have not opened up the muffler.
Is the exhaust restriction at the outlet? Or is the muffler itself not flowing freely? If the exhaust is opened up, and Engine rps increase, does the air fuel ratio in main metering need to be made richer?
Take a look on you tube, there vids of modding the 2511p muffler. Every Echo saw get I open up the muff , pull the limiter caps and tune good. Most times it's round a 30% increase in cutting speed. I think Echo clogs up the muff and tunes lean to get by EPA regulations. Steve
I stopped at the local Echo dealer to get a new pull rope for my Simplicity snow blower and he forced me into going over to the chainsaw wall :D he didn't have the 2511P, just the top handle although he said he will in a few weeks. That is a cute little saw, I believe the top handle 2511 was almost $400.00, does that sound right?
Yup, that's what I paid. It's considered part of their pro line, so the prices are higher than you might otherwise assume. The "X" series are what they consider their pro tools.
I paid $415.00 with that upgraded bar 12" and three oregon chains. Dealer had tools and extra air filter in the bag with the owners manual. Not sure if that was him being thoughtful and proactive, or if ECHO includes the extra air filter. The same dealer did this also with the 550XP Mk. II I'll ask him about these extra air filters. The 2511P was $399.00 with the stock bar.
Sounds like you have a good dealer. I have about 15 tanks of fuel through my 2511 now, and it runs noticeably better than new. It is always the first saw I load if I am heading out with saws.
Just an update after several months of use. Now that the newness had worn off.
The fuel and bar oil caps are okay, but having to use the recoil handle as an aid in leverage for removal is an extra step. I like the Husqvarna 550xp caps much more.
The saw always starts easy, runs and idles great. Very light weight. It is excellent for the 4-5" trimming and clean up work.
So in a nutshell, I am still happy with this saw and it's usefulness.
Yea, I'm not super fond of the caps either, but I'm one of the weirdos that likes flippy caps. There's a narrow range between loosy leaky, and using the pull handle to free them. They're also more prone to getting bits of crud on the gasket causing leaks. Not a big deal in the grand scheme of things, but there's room for improvement. At least the holes are big. It's very easy to fill without making a mess.
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Used the 2511P and 550xp to get the wood pile stocked up for the next heating season. That 2511P is nice to have handy for cleaning up the annoying limbs.
Had a nice pine blow down over night. 55 plus mph winds. Did not expect this healthy tree to fall. The 2511P started on second pull. No stalling, just right to work and excellent at limbing the pine. At the 4-5" diameter range it's time for a bigger saw. So the 550xp was put to work. There have been some recent posts about the hard starting on the 550xp. So I paid close attention. Prime 5 times. Full choke, pull twice and it popped. Choke off, still on high idle. One pull and it was running. My Haix chainsaw boots I can just get my toe to hold the handle to the ground. I can see where people are having issues getting their boot into the handle for pull start. Both saws are excellent at doing the job.
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My 24 year old daughter used the 2511P Echo this past Tuesday to clean up after a storm. She could start it herself. Like how light weight the saw is and did a great job limbing the downed limbs that were too large for the loppers. And I appreciated the extra helper. As much as this saw can do more than you would expect, when the diameter of the cut gets to about 6", there are better saw choices. I am still very happy with this saws performance and reliability.
What did that 2511 cost? The sweet thing about those little Echos is that they are affordable. The Husky T525 is also a real nice little saw to run. But they're up around $500. The T435 is still less than $400, but it seems like Husky and Stihl equate "top handle" with "professional" which means "expensive". :)
Agree that 6" is about the limit for these sub-30cc saws. Not sure if it's a limit on the saw, or on our patience when using them. LOL But most anybody here reading this will have something larger to grab as the wood gets bigger.
$400 is what I paid for my top handle. I've been wanting to do a muffler mod on mine, but haven't made time for it. I hear it wakes them up pretty good. Excellent results have been gained by porting also, but that's more expensive than I need running it as a non pro.
You definitely need patience running it in big wood. I would say 8" is the sweet spot, but maybe it's 6". You can bury the bar, but you just have to let it work. Mine stays in my truck as my everything saw. Sometimes I need to cut something bigger than practical, and it's there to do it. Quicker than my foldable bowsaw.
Another year has past and the 2511P continues to perform without issue. Nice saw, but if the wood gets to 6", the 550 xp or 45 is a better choice and gets the job done faster and more enjoyable for the operator. Just my opinion and update. Starts great always, never stalls out. Hard working little 25cc saw.
I have a bit of information to add about the 2511P. So today I was cutting with the 2511P and I decided to tighten the chain just a little. As I was loosening the bar nut I noticed the nut was not spinning off, but the stud was threading out and pushing the guide plate and clutch cover with it. It had only come out about 1/4" before I saw what was happening. I must have tightened the bar nut too tight. So, I threaded it back in and tried again. No luck. Did not look cross threaded, so I took a battery powered impact wrench and socket to spin the nut off and that worked. I removed the spring clip holding the captured bar nut and with clutch cover removed I spun the nut on and off the stud with my fingers. No binding, no thread damage. The stud threads into the plastic case and I could see thread lock compound on the threads of the stud. So, I double nutted the stud and threaded it back into position. Reassembled and checked operation. This will be one saw I will use more care in not tightening the bar nuts too tight. I did not know thread lock compound would work on steel to plastic. Is this a special compound?
Well, a quick Google search and I found Plastic to plastic and plastic to metal lock tight. The Old School lock tight is not recommended as it will cause damage to the plastic and make the plastic brittle. Will result is small cracks in the plastic.
Well I took the 2511P and some others to Madison Wisconsin. To help my son get a fallen tree off his house. No house damage. My son was using the 2511P and my 550XP. After a day of clean up he asked if he could keep the 2511P. It is such a lite weight and very well built saw he felt it would come in handy. So, I left him that saw. Now I will have to think about another one or a replacement.
Older thread - at least the past of it where you are shown working on cutting a neighbour's tree using a towable lift to get up and into the branches..
Can you share some info regarding the lift itself as to what make and/or model the one as pictured was and how high you can comfortably go with it and at the top reach - how much weight can it support at that extreme - and finally if it gets touchy or iffy if you try and reach or span out from a vertical stand point - (as in how far off straight up can you go before it loses ability to be usable or stable to allow supporting much weight in the bucket etc..?
I've got a few trees dying in my yard at camp - most accessible from my lawn (field bed under) and wondering if something like this might work for me to help get them down.. verses a big sized one that I'm pretty sure would not be manageable for the weight and size of that type or version..
Any info is much appreciated! Randy
Randy, Haulotte model 4527A, this model is 51' height and 27' horizontal outreach. When I need the lifts, I have always just rented them. Here are the pros and cons I can share. They have level and tip sensors so you can't go so far as to tip the unit. I have used other brands of them at over 80 feet of vertical. It is a feeling you have to get use to or overcome. The wind will blow the bucket and arm, and the tree will sway. if is windy. This movement takes time to adjust your mind to accept. The higher up you go the more movement there is. The hydraulic extension arms are robust, can be used to level or lift the base off the ground if needed. Ground needs to be solid or plated will be needed. Moving the unit from side to side of the tree is necessary. Planning your attack will save wasted time repositioning the lift. You can't just drop the branches and let them hit the unit. The control in the bucket allows you to move in and out of the tree to position yourself in a safe area. Platform makes it easy to have all your tools in the bucket with you. Never tie anything between the tree and the bucket. Makes it easy to tie to the tree and drop the lines down for the groundies. When needed they are extremely handy. I'll see if I have photos showing the angle you can achieve with the arm. But it is very impressive.
Thanks for the comments - I've considered renting a larger unit for the extra capacity and reach but they all come with so much extra weight and size obviously that they aren't at all practical for a couple of the trees and access to them that I presently have.
One of the types you show and describe would probably get me to areas where I could shave down the limbs at least enough to keep from having to dodge a lot of broken branches falling around the property and risking someone eventually getting clobbered by one at some point.
These are Birch and Poplar trees and they rot from the top down and often without warning just have fairly large chunks fall off..
Can or could a lift such as the one you pictured be moved around with a good sized ATV for short distances with a trailer hitch set up or is it too heavy overall to consider something like that to get it into a spot where a vehicle (truck) would be needed in your estimation?
I have two 6x6 Polaris Rangers. On flat ground and in low range yes. But that can cause overheating of the drive belt if it starts slipping. Slipping as in the drive belt slipping on the torque converter. Also I always un-hook the truck from the lift when lift is in use. One is a 6x6 side by side, the other is a 6x6 upright. The side by side can handle more weight and more stable.
Thanks again for the comments and details!
I will most certainly see what may be available come Spring locally to me in this line of lift and try and determine if or what I can rent that could work for me.
Nothing will be certain (what is) - but if my health allows it, I will have to attempt to manage the trees mentioned very soon - and I would prefer to do it with the help of my sons verses spent a lot more on hiring a climber to do a lot of it.. most I don't think would actually consider the work anyway, due to the age, placement, and condition of the trees I need gone anyway!
Sorry to have hijacked this thread - but if it makes it a bit more relevant I will add - that some sort of small top handle or light weight saw would most certainly come in handy if and when I attempt to tackle such a job as mentioned!!
Randy
I have used the lifts for tree trimming. Works great to be able to get up and in to the canopy. I use a pole saw and trim away the dead branches and remove widow makers. So much safer than climbing or a ladder. Every couple of years I do trimming around three cabins to keep stuff from falling on building and decks.
I prefer trimming in the fall. Easier to see what needs to be done in the tree tops. Ground is also more solid.
I do have a Stihl pole saw with an extension which is sort of unwieldy at full reach out sideways - but it does the trick well and does provide a good reach - so combined with a bucket lift and my 261 I should have the tools to get something accomplished!
I will have to try and find a good method of tying branches up so I can lower them down because most of them can't be just dropped after cutting without potential damage to something - which obviously makes things slower and cumbersome.. but as you say getting up into the tree using something safer and less risky than ladders or climbing poor trees is the main idea..
I was out there late this afternoon to get my quad in 3 feet of snow - and with no leaves it seems at first glance to be an easy deal IF I can get any sort of small bucket lift close and over a few obstacles to be able to set it up well!
Again thanks for the info and some ideas - hopefully I am in decent enough condition come early Summer to tackle this and I can rest easy for the rest of the time out there without having to constantly worry about things like this!
I very often use a winch to lower limbs or branches. Being mindful of the weight been lowered. I have a booster pack and tree saver harness that works when I can't get the truck close enough.
I also have been looking at an echo 2511p, I was able to find the vibration spec for the MS 201 it was around 2.9 m/s . however I haven't been able to find published vibration information for the 2511p anywhere, I checked multiple search engines the echo website and the product manual. Does anyone have the front/ reàr handle vibration spec for the 2511p? If that spec can't be found can anyone who owns a 2511 report their subjective experience of the vibration level? This information is important to me and will help me decide which saw to get thank you for any help you can provide
I have the top handle, and have had no issues with vibration. For reference, all my modern saws are fine for me. I can use them indefinitely without issue. My old poulanpro without a/v would cause my fingers to tingle after ~10 minutes. By that, I would say I'm lower on the sensitivity scale, but not immune to vibration.
I have a 339xp Husqvarna and had 2511P Echo. I detected no difference in vibration. But both would act grabby with the depth gauges filed too short. I never cut with the Echo with it's factory supplied bar or chain. I had the dealer install a Oregon bar and chain. I have used Poulan and Craftsman that I thought vibration was horrible. Not sure if these comparisons help with your question. I really did like that Echo and had no complaints. Easy starting, smooth running and never would stall out at idle. Plenty of RPM and torque for cutting 8" diameter or less. And lite weight!
I found vibration specs. For the Echo 4.5 front and 4.6 rear.
339xp is 4.3 front and 5.1 rear. I don't know how to compare this numbers. Not like measurements in cm or inch.
Thank you that was super helpful! What Oregon b/c do you prefer on your 2511 rather than the stock b/c ? I would probably use that too if I end up getting one
I was using a 12" Advance cut bar and a 91VXL VersaCut Chain. .050", 3/8" LP 45DL. I really felt the chain was a good match for this saw. The Homeowner version of chain may be smoother.