Well picked up my saw last Friday but have not got it set yet due to cold weather and rain. However I for got to ask dealer how to set up the jacks and that is my question. Do you level by putting pressure on the jack stands with the jack handle. With the foot of the stand on the ground and trying to go to the next pin hole takes a he++ of a lot of force. Is this what you gotta do? If so I do not like these jacks AT All and they will go and not for $1000 WM FOA.
Usually one is setting the front three jacks with the head at the back, then the back three with the head at the front. If trying to adjust after mill is set up and really hard to go to next hole chances are the place you want it is between holes. Have to deal with that with shims or shovel.
I really struggled with the jacks on my lt35 as well. There are several threads on here that will help. It takes a bit of getting used to but now they are no problem at all. As TT said, moving the head from one end to the other so you dont fight the weight is key. With a little practice it will be second nature and you will find other things to worry about like sawing backstops or not putting backstops up or....... the list goes on!!Brian
Congrats on finally getting your sawmill!! 8)
You should not be straining on any outrigger.
Always lower the back outrigger first! After that simply tighten each outrigger as necessary to level the sawmill bed. Note: Move the head to the opposite end that you are raising.
I prefer that the front and the loader sides to be about a half bubble higher.
Trying to set the jacks with head in the wrong position was taught to me by WM as the "built in anti theft" system. :D :D It will keep someone from stealing the mill because it can't hardly be done.
The head will roll easily by itself, so if you set the wrong jack too high without the head secured it will roll slowly to the other end of the mill, slam into the bump stop and jack the off end of the mill about 4 feet in the air. Quite a sight and adrenaline rush. Personal experience.....
The nice thing is that if you do what Yellow Hammer explains while the mill is oriented north and south, when all the excitement has stopped on a 35 look between the manual ruler markings and the inches will align with degrees of latitude and allow you to identify stars, planets, and parts of the Milky Way - it's a little known trick I picked up after sever times of performing said exercise. ;D
If you are using your mill as a portable be sure to install a pair of RV levels on the frame to help you get the mill level or approximately so. The mill does not have to be perfectly level to saw good lumber but if it is close it makes log and lumber handling easier.
As mentioned above always lower the rear landing gear part way down before moving the head around to keep the tongue from pointing at the North star. The two rail side (interior) landing gear/jacks are the ones that are a pain to reach. Remember they just need to be snug. Also be sure the tires are load bearing in use. I drive my mill up on several 1X6's on the low side to help level it side to side and keep blocks and cut off boards under the jacks to help keep it in contact with the ground and level. Be sure especially the center jacks do not stick up past the top of the bed rails. Dig them in if necessary.
Enjoy. Keep us posted.
I added a trailer jack to the front of my LT28, makes a huge difference hitching, unhitching, and leveling. I put the 4' level on the mill, then back one of the tires onto a 1" or 2" board to level side to side. Then crank the jack up or down to level front to back, set the outriggers, and I'm in business.
One of the best initial mods I made to my LT35 was to replace the pins on the outriggers. I did get the FAO's from WM. But they came with pins similar to this,
(https://media.tractorsupply.com/is/image/TractorSupplyCompany/1833587?$456$)
Which have a groove where the keeper spring hooked onto the pin. I was FOREVER fighting to get the pin OUT of the outrigger to let it drop to the ground. I replaced all the pins with smooth pins similar to these;
(https://media.tractorsupply.com/is/image/TractorSupplyCompany/269078?$456$)
They have made life SO much easier when setting up. Remove key, pull pin, outrigger drops.
Doc
Whatever you do DO NOT put a chock behind the tire on the log lift side until after you lower the lift arms. It will break the hydraulic velocity fuse on the lift arm cylinder. Yes I did this the first time I set my mill up by myself. It is better to chock the rail side tire and set the jacks to prevent the mill from rolling. By the way, if you break the velocity fuse, it will dump ALOT of hydraulic oil in a short time.
On portable jobs I carry a variety of 1x6, 2x6 and blocks to level the mill side to side and to put under jack feet to make sure the out riggers are carrying sufficient load.