Ok guys - let's weigh in - what in your opinion is the best chainsaw file - and why:
Durability
Price
Availability
Ease of cleaning
Etc.
Oh yeah - please specify type - round flat, square cut ...
Nicholson is pretty much the leader of the file business on the machinist side. I get stihl files at the co-op because thats what is there and i have no complaints. Any new file is better than a dull old rusty one no matter what brand. They all wear out.. Just how it is.
For a 7/32 round file.... Save Edge... makes an Oregon file seem dull out of the box.
For all the hubbub about the Save-edge files, I got a box and didn't notice any difference vs the Oregon I'd always used. Not that they're bad, I was just expecting more🤷🏽♂️
Round files are about $1.50 at my local hardware store. Not sure of the brand. I get a new one when I put on a new chain. But I should probably get a new one more often. Every time I start using a new one, I ask myself "why didn't you do that sooner?"
The last time that I bought some was at a local Stihl dealer. He had an unopened box of 12 that he sold me and they worked out to be out the door price of 24ish. The # (for those interested) is 7010 871 6405 and that's for 7/32 for 3/8 chain. I recorded the # since it's not in the catalog so I'd have for future reference. The box had 4 of the 3pack in it.
BTW, shouldn't this be in the chainsaw section?
CBN wheel on a grinder is the best file IMHO ;) ;D :) :) Ya Ya Ya ground chains aren't as sharp as hand filed ::) ::) Whatever :D :) I haven't hand filed a saw chain since January of 2006 ;D 8) ;D 8) :)
Bar none PFERD
Nothing is even close
Round file
I am partial to Stihl and my dealer has good pricing if you buy the files by box rather than singles or 3 pack.
Everybody is too proud of the raker files.
I'm pretty sure the Stihl files are Made by PFERD
have used Pferd files for years, have not found anything better.
Quote from: Corley5 on February 10, 2021, 02:27:32 PM
CBN wheel on a grinder is the best file IMHO ;) ;D :) :) Ya Ya Ya ground chains aren't as sharp as hand filed ::) ::) Whatever :D :) I haven't hand filed a saw chain since January of 2006 ;D 8) ;D 8) :)
The eye cannot beat a machine or jig but is is so easy to carry a file in your file pocket.
Me to. Pferd is my favorite but remember , like chainsaw bars, they can make bad batches.
Quote from: BargeMonkey on February 09, 2021, 11:11:26 PM
For a 7/32 round file.... Save Edge... makes an Oregon file seem dull out of the box.
I've used a lot of files. I'm kind of a experiment try kind of guy. Save edge beats them all.
I think the Oregon files I buy are Pferd made too? I can't remember for sure.
I run Sthil chains on both my Huskys and file with a Oregon file. I buy them by the box. I have a big saw and a small saw, need two different size files. Just like chains and bars, bars, I keep one on hand all the time, and chains, I buy 5 at a time.
I suppose I should not say that my Makita 4 inch grinder keeps the rakers down.
I can't remember the last time I used or bought a file a grinder is the way to go especially when running square chains.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/47446/34863237-A605-45CF-B6F0-49E59B9EBD7E.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1613013860)
You carry chains in the woods?
I always had extras in the forwarder or with the gas and oil.
I know guys that swap chains but only fiewood cutters. Falling and bucking log trees it would drive me crazy. Sharpen a saw 6+ times a day is faster than swapping chains. I would like to buy a sharpener for when I hit junk though.
Quote from: Firewoodjoe on February 11, 2021, 05:24:49 PM
You carry chains in the woods?
Quote from: Firewoodjoe on February 11, 2021, 05:24:49 PM
You carry chains in the woods?
Yes I do an old crown royal bag or something like that works well. If I'm cutting all the time I'll swap a chain after a few hours or around noon to finish the day out. Remember my chains start at 105 drivers so sharpening them is time consuming vs swapping a chain out in less then a few minutes on either Stihl or Husky saws. Most days I'm packing 6 chains but normally use 2 maybe 3 if I hit something well bucking.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/47446/730A7D17-803A-42C1-9591-515562A46257.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1613089968)
This is a cutter straight off the grinder I like a predictable chain every time I start.
I recently ended up with a 7/32 oregon. It seemed to have a lot more bite and lasted longer than the stihl files I normally use. Might have been a fluke. Bought 3 stihl 7/32 files today $5.60. A little extra filing today I nicked a scaffold cutting a window opening in a log wall.
I'd rather swap out a chain than file one in the woods. That's my preference :) :)
I'm happy to sit on a stump and touch up a chain with a file if it's gets a bit dull.
But if I seriously rock one, then I have a spare sharp chain handy as it's going to take some serious file work to get that one cutting again. Much quicker to swap it out and deal with the mess later.
So I can see the logic of carrying spare chains, especially for the folks that prefer to machine grind their chains. They get to sharpen them later in comfort back in the workshop. If you are working in the snow with limited daylight, that seems very sensible?
Yeah i run 84 drives. I could see some advantages but for the most part I'll carry a file. No way I'd get a couple hours on a sharpen. Maybe one hour to hour and a half. I basically touch it up quick every tank of gas. Then it only takes a swipe or two. Also I've heard after grinding it's to hard to hand file? Is that pretty true?
I use an Oregon chain grinder.
It takes me about 10 minutes to do one.
I usually have t do at least one each night when my dads been running the harvester. Unless he bumps something with it, (not common). The chains can last a whole day easy and only need a slight rub to get back into perfection while cutting just spruce stud and logs.
It was about $750 buck with tax and shipping but worth every cent.
Quote from: Skeans1 on February 11, 2021, 07:34:30 PM
Quote from: Firewoodjoe on February 11, 2021, 05:24:49 PM
You carry chains in the woods?
Quote from: Firewoodjoe on February 11, 2021, 05:24:49 PM
You carry chains in the woods?
Yes I do an old crown royal bag or something like that works well. If I'm cutting all the time I'll swap a chain after a few hours or around noon to finish the day out. Remember my chains start at 105 drivers so sharpening them is time consuming vs swapping a chain out in less then a few minutes on either Stihl or Husky saws. Most days I'm packing 6 chains but normally use 2 maybe 3 if I hit something well bucking.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/47446/730A7D17-803A-42C1-9591-515562A46257.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1613089968)
This is a cutter straight off the grinder I like a predictable chain every time I start.
That's what I've always heard re square, the one guy here that uses square (he learned that on fire crews in CA) grinds and carries 3 with him and keeps a semi chisel if he has a need to cut dirty wood. Swapping a chain is pretty easy and he just grinds on really nasty days, I think he'll have 20 loops made and just saves dull chain for a rainy day.
Do you make your own chains ? What brand chain do you like?
I generally have 2 extra loops with me but I also carry my trusty Timberline sharpener. https://www.timberlinesharpener.com/shop/
Gives you a better than new edge and it is a prefect sharpen every time. Once you got the hang of it, its a 10 to 15 minute job on a 20" bar. Real hard to beat.
Quote from: Firewoodjoe on February 12, 2021, 06:09:37 AM
Yeah i run 84 drives. I could see some advantages but for the most part I'll carry a file. No way I'd get a couple hours on a sharpen. Maybe one hour to hour and a half. I basically touch it up quick every tank of gas. Then it only takes a swipe or two. Also I've heard after grinding it's to hard to hand file? Is that pretty true?
If you burn a cutter yes and well you're learning to grind you will burn some cutters. Well I'm grinding I'm also doing all my saw/harvester chain maintenance checking the tie straps/presets cleaning bar rails and blowing the saw out including air filters. With doing all of that I have less time in sitting down grind then you do filing I'm also only allowed to fall 6 hours a day so I need to watch how much time I screw around out in the brush.
Quote from: nativewolf on February 12, 2021, 07:47:48 AM
Quote from: Skeans1 on February 11, 2021, 07:34:30 PM
Quote from: Firewoodjoe on February 11, 2021, 05:24:49 PM
You carry chains in the woods?
Quote from: Firewoodjoe on February 11, 2021, 05:24:49 PM
You carry chains in the woods?
Yes I do an old crown royal bag or something like that works well. If I'm cutting all the time I'll swap a chain after a few hours or around noon to finish the day out. Remember my chains start at 105 drivers so sharpening them is time consuming vs swapping a chain out in less then a few minutes on either Stihl or Husky saws. Most days I'm packing 6 chains but normally use 2 maybe 3 if I hit something well bucking.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/47446/730A7D17-803A-42C1-9591-515562A46257.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1613089968)
This is a cutter straight off the grinder I like a predictable chain every time I start.
That's what I've always heard re square, the one guy here that uses square (he learned that on fire crews in CA) grinds and carries 3 with him and keeps a semi chisel if he has a need to cut dirty wood. Swapping a chain is pretty easy and he just grinds on really nasty days, I think he'll have 20 loops made and just saves dull chain for a rainy day.
Do you make your own chains ? What brand chain do you like?
I do make my own chains you loose too much buying by the loop I can get a roll out here cheaper. Almost all my chains are Oregon I'm not a fan of Stihl it works but I don't like the angles on a factory cutter I have angles I like to run well cutting. Even a brand new chain gets tossed on the grinder for the teeth sharpened and then the rakers are ground.
I buy loops. A case of loops .20 more per loop. Free shipping. And I use Oregon and it husqvarna but I prefer and generally buy Oregon. All to there own I guess. I'm cutting cold frozen big hard maple right now. Sharpen about every tree🙄
I buy loops. A case of loops .20 more per loop. Free shipping. And I use Oregon and it husqvarna but I prefer and generally buy Oregon. All to there own I guess. I'm cutting cold frozen big hard maple right now. Sharpen about every tree🙄
I screwed up. I don't have the chain assembly tools so I'd save $2 per loop after I paid for the tools.
Quote from: Firewoodjoe on February 12, 2021, 12:10:06 PM
I screwed up. I don't have the chain assembly tools so I'd save $2 per loop after I paid for the tools.
But the chain would be less expensive after the tool is paid for. :-\
After I examined your reply closer, I noticed that my response was in error, oops 😬
Round filing is actually pretty quick in the woods. Before you start to file but after you've cut a log, use your stump or bits of another scrap of wood that is pretty well immobile and make a poor man stump vise. Just cut about 1.5" in to hold the chain and bar. Learn to file carefully from 1 side and when that side is done, pickup the saw to rotate the chain. It's not perfect but it works fairly well, just not quite as good as a stump-vise. BTW, I have a stump vise but it's kinda heavy and takes up some room. When you do the poor man trick, the chain needs to be fairly tight. It rocks to much if it's got to much slack.
Quote from: Firewoodjoe on February 12, 2021, 12:10:06 PM
I screwed up. I don't have the chain assembly tools so I'd save $2 per loop after I paid for the tools.
So you're paying around 17 dollars per loop?
$14.75 for husky. $15.50 Oregon.
Just saw this, Pferd fer shur!
If i put a new chain on monday, cut and top with it come Thursday its done, frozen wood right now your filing every tree sometimes. I would have to carry 6-8 chains minimum and that would drive me nuts swapping chains. I cant justify building saw chain anymore for 3/8, i do for 3/4 but thats a diff beast. Friend of mine up north gets .404 by the bucket loads, brand new chain goes on the harvester, it gets dull another new chain goes on, he ran his firewood processor for yrs on once used chains.
He doesn't sharpen? There must be good money in firewood!
Quote from: sawguy21 on February 13, 2021, 02:49:29 AM
He doesn't sharpen? There must be good money in firewood!
Ponsse harvester, put a new chain on and go back to work. He had 4-5 buckets of chain sitting there they gave him.
Quote from: Firewoodjoe on February 12, 2021, 06:09:37 AMAlso I've heard after grinding it's to hard to hand file? Is that pretty true?
Only if the guy operating the grinder doesn't know what the heck he's doing. If you overheat the chain, even just the very edge, it can ruin a couple of files the next time you try to hand sharpen. It doesn't take much: the alloy of most chains is such that it easily harden if overheated: between "air quenchng" and the body of the tooth suckin gthat heat out of the cutting edge very quickly, you can quench the steel very easily, resulting in an untempered martensite structure. This is really hard and brittle. You'll wear the teeth of your file trying to file it down.
If you are taking it somewhere to be sharpened, even if there is a lot to take off on each tooth (for example, if you rocked it) all you should hear is a series of short bursts on the grinder with a very light touch and a pause in between: bzt..... bzt..... bzt. If you hear Bzzzzt..Bzzzzzt..Bzzzzzt or even worse, one long BZZZZZZZZZT on each tooth, take your chain somewhere else.
I've always used oregon files until recent, I bought a pack of stihl 5/32s and I will never go back, the teeth just hold edge much longer.
I sold four brands of files to professional fallers. They preferred Pferd files to a man. Only the farmers and homeowners went for the cheaper files.
Ok guys - OP here. I appreciate all the enthusiasm! Since I started this thread I ordered a box of Save Edge and a box of Pferd 7/32 files for my 3/8 running saws, and a box of Save Edge 3/16 for the saws wearing .325 chain (ms261s w/16" bars). I have to say - really impressed so far with the Save Edge - makes bringing a dull chain that has hit metal back to life way less of a chore.
FWIW I find storing my files inside a piece of small diameter hose really makes a difference in file life and sharpness.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/12754/IMG_20210317_100759_28129.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1615988190)
I store my files inside some plastice straws from McDonald's drinks. THey are a perfect fit for 7/32" files. When I get around to it, I'll heat up some needle-nose pliers over a flame and use them to clamp and melt one end of the straw closed. The closed end makes just enough friction no the file to keep it from slipping off the file when it's bouncing around in my tool box.
Unfortunately, the McDonalds in my area recently switched to paper/cardboard straws , but I have a supply stored up, and save them from other restaurants when we are on the road.
I had to go to my husky dealer to get a new batt charger for the elec chainsaw and while there I got a resupply of files. The 7/32 were peferd but I couldn't get 3/16 peferd so I got a box of husky sharp cut, never seen them before so we'll see how they do against the peferd.
Remind me, who makes them for Stihl? Because the ones that I've bought from them seem lots better than anything else that I've seen/tried local. I just have an aversion to NOT getting anything locally.
I'm still using pferds I bought 15 years ago when baileys had a big sale ,I bought several dozen. They are very good files. But several years ago I started sharpening mostly with a dremel ,powered with an inverter from the truck battery for use in the woods . The stone leaves a finer, sharper edge and cuts just a little better .