Hey everyone,
I've been lurking here for a while now soaking up some knowledge from everyone while I was searching for my first sawmill. 2 days ago I brought home a 1990 Woodmizer LT40 and I wanted to share some of my excitement.
I have been searching for a mill for at least a year now, and I have been on the lookout for a good used mill I could afford in addition to researching all the new manual mills. With the market being what it is today, I had nearly given up hope on the used mill; it seems no one is letting them go! I had just about decided to purchase a Range Road 5032 when a friend told me that a neighbor of his had an old mill sitting in the woods behind her house that had belonged to her father who had died some time ago. I was very interested and kept gently goading my friend to find out more information. Well, 6 weeks went by since learning about the mill in the woods and my friend hadn't gotten any information other than a picture of the sad mill sitting outside in the thicket. I was nearly resigned to buying the Range Road when my wife and I decided to drive by our friend's place. We found the address of the woman who had the sawmill, and a bit of internet sleuthing got us her name and number.
I called her and set up an appointment to see the mill 2 days later. It was hard to sleep those couple of nights, but Wednesday finally rolled around and I went to see the mill.
Her father had purchased the mill new from Woodmizer in 1990 and had used it for awhile in Kentucky before he passed away. His daughter brought it to Florida where her adult son ran it for a short while 10 years ago. They covered it with tarps and parked it in the woods behind her house. Well, a tarp doesn't last all that long outside in Florida, so by the time I got to it it was mostly exposed to the elements.
After talking with the woman, she showed me the cant hook, blade sharpener, and tooth setter in her garage. I told her I wanted to buy it and asked how much she was thinking. She said she knew it had been deteriorating outside for some time and that she and her son had an idea of the value a decade ago, but now had no clue. I offered her $1200 planning to negotiate from there; she refused my offer and said she wouldn't take more than $500! I hardly knew what to say as I handed her the cash.
I spent the next couple of hours jacking the mill up with a farm jack and packing the wheel bearings and putting on new wheels. Once I got the new wheels on and packed some dirt in the holes where it had been sitting, I hooked up to it and pulled it out of the woods! I cleaned up all the rotten tarps and strapped them to the bed of the saw as I didn't want to leave a mess for her to clean up. I went back to her garage and loaded up the accessories and thanked her again profusely.
I towed it the 45 minutes home with no issues and pressure washed it just before dark. I have sprayed everything down with PB Blaster and it's soaking now. This weekend I hope to start to see what works and what's going to need repairs. The 18HP Briggs was mostly still covered and still rotates. All the electrical drive motors were exposed, so I imagine there'll be some work there. All the grease zerks are rusty, I plan to replace them this weekend.
All-in-all I am super excited to get this mill back in service. I got a great deal so I have some room to work.
Thanks to everyone who contributes for all the great information I've gotten thus far!
I'm going to have to figure out how to upload photos! Couldn't get it to work.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/63274/imagejpeg~1.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1614353156)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/63274/20210224_190334~0.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1614352739)
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Good luck. Be sure to register the Viin with Woodmizer which will make ordering parts easier and also provides some protection if it were ever stolen and might help track it down if it showed up somewhere else and someone else tried to buy parts for it.
Oh wow and Oh yes, you will be OK with that treasure. Continue to share pictures of the restoration, and
Welcome to the Forestry Forum. :)
I echo all of MagicMan's comments, and welcome to your new "non-lurker" status. ;D
I have and use a 1992 LT30 that has served me well for eight years on a log construction site. Our mills are very similar - my gallery has a number of photos re service and building extensions. Questions or comment? fire away.
BTW - that is a smoking' hot deal you got on your mill. I picked up mine for ten times what you did. Great rescue!
Thanks guys! I did contact Woodmizer yesterday and spoke with Tyler. He got me set up with all the manuals and literature on the mill, as well as registering the mill to my name. I know I will be needing some parts to get this up and running, so the literature is most helpful. Andries, I will be checking out your gallery and I am sure I will have some questions for you!
I will be working on it some this weekend and I will be sure to post some pictures of what I am getting into. Unfortunately, my wife scheduled a project out of town Saturday, so I have to grin and bear it until Sunday!
That is quite a find!
OH boy, congrats. I have rescued 2 older lt40's from the scrap heap, so been there. Don't try to remove the grease zerks, they are pressed in, no threads. Some of the parts may be un-available, BUT in most cases woodmizer will have later production pieces that will work. The 18 hp briggs on mine ran ok for around 5500 hours before I swapped it out for a 25 hp liquid cooled kawasaki. Not much you can do to an old lt40 that I haven't done. Mine is a 95 currently showing 8000+ hours and still in daily use. When you have questions, ask away, if I can't help, there will be someone on here who can and will.
Also, I can show you how to upgrade that old setter dual tooth and convert the sharpener to take a cbn wheel.
Congratulations on that steal mill, and welcome to the Forestry Forum Brob1969!
Welcome to the forum and Congrats on the mill find. You will have that thing purring in short order I am sure.
A friend of mine has a 1988 (I think? 2nd year of woodmizer mills) that has a LOT of hours on it that he has 3 x 12' extensions on for doing long beams. He has pretty sizable sawmill operation that produces about 15,000BF per day with a Corley that is driven by 3 phase electric. He is the go to mill for long beams in this country and they are all cut on his Woodmizer.
Actually 1988 should be the 6th year: Wood-Mizer (https://woodmizer.com/about-us/)
Congratulations
Yea! This is like finding the mythical old Corvette in a barn story. Very happy for you.
Pineywoods, you are speaking my language! I definitely will want to be modifying the sharpener before long!
Thanks for the tip on the grease zerks! I literally soaked them all this morning with the intent of trying to remove them this evening! I'm glad I read this before I started wrenching on them!
I will be asking plenty of questions as I dive into this. I'm super stoked to get this thing cutting again soon!
Regarding greasing the zerks, remove the pin, bolt, or whatever is behind them and apply some heat to soften the hardened grease and hopefully you can push some grease through them. In prefer to use a high pressure red grease.
Believe it or not, every one of the zerks took grease!
I assume soaking in PB all day may have had something to do with it. I pushed on each ball before I put the grease gun to it. They all took grease and everything is moving!
I put PB Blaster in the cylinders of the engine as well. I got new oil, filter, and plugs for it and I'll change all that in the AM. When I took the air cleaner apart it was full of carpenter ants! I'm guessing I'll be rebuilding the carburetor as soon as I get a kit!
The battery in the battery box looks brand new...except for the 2005 manufacture date! I checked over all the wiring and all the insulation is intact. The electric motors are all turning freely, hopefully with a battery I can check the operation.
One issue I have found is the hydraulic tensioner isn't functioning. There's a weep hole in the bottom of the block where hydraulic fluid comes out when I tighten the handle. I'm assuming something inside the block has failed. Does anyone know how these are filled?
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Well, this story looks familiar, like I just saw it on a FB page. Lol. You've come to a great place for info on your new to you mill and for information on milling when you get to that stage.
WOw, you lucked out bigtime with a heck of a deal! I have bookmarked this thread and hope to see progress photos as you go along, This shouldn't take long before you are whacking out some nice stuff. I would give my left [body part] for that deal. Good for you man! Welcome to the forum, what took you so long? ;D
Brob; Haven't seen a weep hole on the hydraulic block on my mills.
If yours is the same style as my LT30 and 40, it's an L shaped block with a filler bung at the far end, on top. The bung is easier to see and work on with the blade covers off. Also, take the blade off.
The way to put ATF oil in is by tightening the crank handle in,as far as it will go. Once the rams are out as far as they will go, hold them with a cloth or leather covered (so that you don't marr the rams) vice grips, to keep them from retracting. Back the crank handle all the way back out, after you've removed the bung. This creates an air pocket in the hydraulic block that you fill with ATF. Tighten up the bung after filling, and take the vice grips off the ram.
You'll find that the additional oil should make the rams move much sooner when cranking the tensioner handle. I had to do this twice with my LT40 - it had been sitting for eleven years.
Now, if you have ATF leaking out of an hole that is designed to be there in the block, well, thats a whole other scenario that I wouldn't expect.
Checking the parts against your manual would be the place to start. My experience is based on a 1992 version of yours.
I'm curious as heck now - why would there be a weep hole there? Corrosion? Kids with small drills and a sense of mischief? ;D
Let us know, hey?
The weep hole is definitely factory. It is mentioned in the repair document to be sure to re-install the block with the weep hole facing downward. I didn't see it at first, it's smaller diameter than a pencil lead and the block is black, once I heard fluid gurgling I noticed it.
Awesome find! Enjoy fixing it up. Once you have it ship shape you'll know what you got. There may be an o ring gone in your hydraulic tensioner.
Yup, put a tensioner repair kit on your list of items to get from Wood-Mizer. I would make a list so that you can save on shipping.
Mine is probably different from yours but my "O" rings are flat. LINK (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?topic=50310.msg726799#msg726799)
The weep hole serves no purpose unless the seal leaks. WM sells a complete rebuild kit real cheap. Only 2 seals but not O rings. That tensioner is a real piece of design genius. Probably take 2 tries to get it full of atf. Be sure to check the atf level in the drive side bearing. Might be a good idea to drain it and refill with fresh atf. You do NOT want to have to replace drive side bearings. Idle side is a piece of cake. Don't forget the up-down gearbox.
The drive side bearing that he's talking about adding ATF to may not have a vent on top. If not you need to get a vent plug. What happened to me is mine (a 1994) did not have a vent plug, and when the oil gets hot from use it will not be able to expand and will push out through the seals. And you won't know or have enough oil in there and that will cause the bearing to wear out.
I installed a vent plug and I updated my bearing with a sight tube like the new mills have:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10095/2617/DSCF3026.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1300122463)
Below is mine
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10095/2617/DSCF4606.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1300216843)
Here is a picture of the top fittings and tube connections
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10095/2617/DSCF4608.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1300216844)
Good luck
Jim Rogers
I learned about the drive wheel bearings the hard way. Replaced them TWICE on the same mill (not my mill). definitely add the sight tube if it's not there. I run 90 weight gear oil in mine, but I live in the deep south, stick with atf in the glaciated north....
What a find and what a cool lady to "lowball it forward ". I would have bought lottery tickets with the 700.00 she refused👍🤓.
Quote from: Jim_Rogers on February 27, 2021, 12:27:20 PM
The drive side bearing that he's talking about adding ATF to may not have a vent on top. If not you need to get a vent plug. What happened to me is mine (a 1994) did not have a vent plug, and when the oil gets hot from use it will not be able to expand and will push out through the seals. And you won't know or have enough oil in there and that will cause the bearing to wear out.
I installed a vent plug and I updated my bearing with a sight tube like the new mills have:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10095/2617/DSCF3026.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1300122463)
Below is mine
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10095/2617/DSCF4606.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1300216843)
Here is a picture of the top fittings and tube connections
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10095/2617/DSCF4608.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1300216844)
Good luck
Jim Rogers
Yes, this! I did the vent plug add as well only haven't did the sight tube modification. My bearings would seep oil when warmed up(94 model mill). Vent fixed that. I run 90W in mine as well. I only cut mainly in summer. These roller bearings imo are better run with heavier oil than atf.
Quote from: Brob1969 on February 27, 2021, 09:55:40 AMThe weep hole is definitely factory . . . once I heard fluid gurgling I noticed it.
Sheesh, I've never noticed that hole.
The learning process never ends.
I'm feeling like I'll just shut and read Pineywoods and MM's posts now, and learn more as you get it up and running.
Keep up the good work
Quote from: Magicman on February 26, 2021, 04:20:56 PM
Actually 1988 should be the 6th year: Wood-Mizer (https://woodmizer.com/about-us/)
So its probably older than I thought and still going strong. Im not sure if they had and electric option back then but he has 15HP 3PH motor on the mill.
@Bandmill Bandit (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=12409), in reply #15 he talks about a carb kit and the photos show an old style Onan with the bumper guard in front of the grill.
Jim Rogers, can you give some info on the vent plug fitting size (thread)? That is a great idea. Need me one. Replaced drive side bearing about two years back. Thanks
This is why I REALLY appreciate this forum! I would not have known to keep an eye out for the drive side bearing, and I DEFINITELY wouldn't have known about the modification!
Thank you all so much! It is so helpful to have such an amazing resource of knowledge!
Quote from: CCCLLC on February 28, 2021, 08:17:22 AM
Jim Rogers, can you give some info on the vent plug fitting size (thread)? That is a great idea. Need me one. Replaced drive side bearing about two years back. Thanks
What I did was take the top plug out, and took it with me to the hardware store so I could test it in the sample thread board, and find the right thread size and count. Then using that information, I selected out the fittings that matched and made up the sight gauge assembly. It's not too hard to do once you get the right fittings and such.
Jim Rogers
PS. Woodmizer sent me the vent plug after they realized that the oil was building up heat/pressure and pushing out through the bearing seals. you may have to get a vent plug from them.
Thanks Jim
WOW, congratulations, and welcome to the forum.
Quote from: Andries on February 27, 2021, 06:22:41 PM
@Bandmill Bandit (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=12409), in reply #15 he talks about a carb kit and the photos show an old style Onan with the bumper guard in front of the grill.
Yes i saw that but I was refering to my friend that has an early (mid 80s) LT40 Hydraulic with a the 15HP 3 phase electric but I think he did that after he bought it cause his whole operation is 3 phase. I checked with him and he was over 20K hours when the meter quit abou 7 years ago.
After a bit of soaking in PB, I took of the bandwheel covers. The drive wheel side and top channel were full of the stores of squirrels.
Everything looks good otherwise. The bearings feel good and it looks like there is almost no wear.
I replaced the ignition switch and battery today and got started on the electrical systems.
I replaced the belt on the gantry motor that raises and lowers the saw head and wire brushed the track on the mast smooth. The raise and lower function works well now. I started polishing on the horizontal track and after a bit of coaxing, got the gantry moving along the main rail. The forward/reverse switch is going to need some attention, it requires some fanagling to get it to go forward.
After some cleaning, I got the blade guide working quite well. Everything seems to be in order here.
I am awaiting the rebuild kit for the tensioner and one for the carburetor. I think I may be able to put a log on this sawmill before too long!
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Quote from: Brob1969 on March 01, 2021, 08:49:59 PM
After a bit of soaking in PB, I took of the bandwheel covers. The drive wheel side and top channel were full of the stores of squirrels.
Everything looks good otherwise. The bearings feel good and it looks like there is almost no wear.
I replaced the ignition switch and battery today and got started on the electrical systems.
I replaced the belt on the gantry motor that raises and lowers the saw head and wire brushed the track on the mast smooth. The raise and lower function works well now. I started polishing on the horizontal track and after a bit of coaxing, got the gantry moving along the main rail. The forward/reverse switch is going to need some attention, it requires some fanagling to get it to go forward.
After some cleaning, I got the blade guide working quite well. Everything seems to be in order here.
I am awaiting the rebuild kit for the tensioner and one for the carburetor. I think I may be able to put a log on this sawmill before too long!
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/63274/20210301_174041~0.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1614649731)
I'd be changing all the bearings associated with that shaft.
GAB
for those that know. the bearings in the above picture are like the ones in my 1987 lt30. what is the plug in the bearing housing for? on mine one plug is up about two oclock the one on the other bearing is down at five oclock.
They are setscrews that retain the sealed bearings in the pillow blocks likely nothing wrong with them, they're hardly broken in
Welcome to FF Brob, keep the pictures coming.
All in all the bandwheels look in good condition. No play and everything turns smoothly.
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Looking real good, what a find and blessings to the lady that sold it to you. Make darn sure your track rollers all turn and are in good shape. They are covered and easy to ignore. A fellow here bought one similar vintage to yours and two rollers were worn right through from sliding along the rail. You'll be sawing in no time it looks like!
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Yep Don, I have been reading the manual all the way through. Because of the fact that this machine has been sitting outside for over a decade, I wanted to be sure I got everything lubed and working properly. After pressure washing the first thing I did was basically empty a big can of PB Blaster on everything that moves, has a fitting, and every bolt and nut on the machine.
I've pretty much been going verbatim with the maintenance schedule and checking out the machine as I go.
I have everything moving now. I have encountered a couple issues that I'm working on, such as the seal kit for the hydraulic tensioner and the drum switch for the drive. I have parts coming from Wood-Mizer this week.
I am changing the oil in the 18 HP Briggs today. I am going to attempt a start later, but I know that I'll be rebuilding the carburetor. Upon taking out the air cleaner, a bunch of carpenter ants came clamoring out of the throat of the carb.
When you pick up the air filter, remember to pick up a pre-filter as well.
They pick up a lot of dust and extend the main filter life by a lot.
For that vent plug, can't you just drill a tiny hole in the one you have? Have done that for a hydraulic vent on a cylinder before.
The seal kit for the tensioner arrived last night, and my new carburetor should be here later this afternoon. I'm going to try to get home soon enough today to get going on this. My hope is to test the mill out this weekend. Two big limbs recently came down from some old pecans on our property during a heavy rain storm; I'm thinking they'll be my first subjects.
The tech I spoke with at Wood-Mizer the other day gave me a couple of tips on the tensioner rebuild. I think I'll make a video of the process so that anyone else who is doing the rebuild can check it out.
Yesterday I pulled the Intake and Carburetor from the Briggs and Stratton 18HP twin engine. Previously if you recall I had found a LOT of carpenter ants coming out of the carburetor when I removed the air cleaner.
Turns out, the ants had made their "forever home" inside the intake! The carburetor was rusty and had ant leavings throughout and the intake ports and head were full of ant larvae and dirt! I'm really glad I didn't attempt to crank the engine and suck all that trash into the cylinders!
I ended up using my shop vac and a piece of wire to get as much of the debris out of the head port as possible. After I got as much out as I could, I filled both intake chambers with SeaFoam. Luckily it seems both intake valves were in the closed position as the SeaFoam filled the chambers with none leaking into the cylinders. I ordered a gasket set and have left them soaking for now; I may try this afternoon to go ahead and tear into the heads. I plan to go ahead and lap the valve seats in and I'll clean and lube the cylinders and rings before I reassemble everything. The oil in the crankcase looked pretty good considering it's been more than a decade since this engine ran. I have already changed the oil and I poured a can of SeaFoam in the crankcase to soak for a bit as well. The engine is not locked, so I feel I'll be able to get it running without too much ado. Worst case scenario, I'm still well below my budget, so if I have to I can still swap in a 23HP Predator engine if necessary. I want to get the original engine going for now though.
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Nice thread here! Very interesting. You are taking a very good approach to this in making sure things are good before turning the key. Hopefully the engine works out good. On the old chainsaws I get the first thing I do is spray engine storage spray into them to make sure they are lubed before cranking on them.
Get you self a gal or 2 of the Gunk carb soak cleaner. Disassemble the heads and intake & carb and drop it all in a pail for a day or 2. You'd be ammazed at how well that works. Even cleans off quite a bit of rust if it is there. If you have a hot plate heat it up to about 130°. does a great job that way.
Pulled the heads today. All 4 valves were in the closed position and the pistons were both mid-stroke. The cylinders were clean and appear to be in good shape. The piston faces and heads had a good bit of soot on them. Maybe it was running too rich?
The exhaust valves operate smoothly and the seats look good.
The intake valves are basically stuck. I managed to coax them open, but they are far too tight for the return spring to close. I have them soaking in penetrating oil, but I went ahead and ordered new valves as I believe I will ultimately have to pull these valves in a manner that will render them useless.
All in all, the engine looks in good condition aside from the stuck intake valves. I intend to get this 18 HP Briggs back up and running, but an upgrade I still on the table.
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Looks like you are the right guy for this rescue. thumbs-up
Thanks for the vote of confidence Terrific Timbers! I sure hope so. I was hoping to possibly test out the mill on a log this past weekend, but alas the carpenter ants had a different path chosen for me.
The upside is I will know the valves are properly seated and adjusted. The engine does appear to have low hours so hopefully I'll get some service out of it.
So my new intake valves came in early enough today that I was able to pick them up on the way to my jobsite; meaning that I would have them in time to get a little work in on the sawmill engine before dark when I got home.
I set about removing the existing valves that I'd been soaking in penetrating oil; I have to say of all the engines I've ever worked on, be they a small engine or on a piece of heavy equipment, these valves were stuck more than any other I've worked on. That ant colony didn't do the valve any favors. I'm assuming that there was a chemical reaction to the "ant juice" that got in between the valve and the sleeve. Ended up taking a pipe wrench 🔧 to the valve and prying against the stem from the other end. Then once the valve stem was flush with the sleeve, I grabbed the valve with a pair of VERY tight vice grips and twisted and pulled for quite some time before I finally got the valve out! Both sides were equally as difficult! Interestingly both exhaust valves moved freely and seal tightly.
I checked both valve sleeves, lubed them up, and easily slid the new valves in. They feel good in the sleeves. I plan to get up early enough tomorrow to lap in the valves. Hopefully I'll be able to get it together tomorrow evening after work.
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Enjoying watching this progress. I hope the engine works out. I would be going the same route. Fingers crossed!
How did the valve seats look after you removed the valves?
The valve seats look fine. I will lap them in before I put the springs back to be sure they are seating properly.
I did uncover a hole in the intake chamber of one of the cylinders. It was likely a result of the corrosion caused by the ants. This evening I am going to attempt to braze the area.
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If I was grading your progress in shop class you'd have an A+ so far! your doing a great job! Keep it up. It is looking real good.
That little hole is likely going to be a debilitating problem. Brazing cast is not a simple task. Depending where it is, high temp JB weld may be a better fix and it will be a temp fix. Brazing will likely leave you with hair line cracks UNLESS you can pre heat the block to an acceptable cast welding temp and then you need a good controlled cooling facility and if it is aluminum it wont braze at all.
I wonder if tig may be the way to go. But that may be a pricey option if you don't have one.
Nice progress on the rebuild so far. As others have mentioned, that hole may be hard to repair for the long term. Another option may be to replace that jug with another one. A quick search on eBay turned up a few for cheap money, used and new.
I cleaned up the area really well prior to working on it this evening. I don't currently own a TIG welder, but I have in the past used my MIG to weld aluminum successfully. Given the tight space and type of repair, that was definitely not an option in this case.
I wasn't too enamored with the prospect of using high-temp JB Weld this close to the combustion chamber. Having used the Hobart aluminum brazing rods previously with some success, I thought it was worth a shot given I've come this far.
I couldn't get the area hot enough using MAPP gas, so I set the MAPP torch up where it was blasting down into the intake chamber from the manifold port and pulled out the oxy-acetylene torch and concentrated that heat on the hole. I got the area hot enough to get the rod to flow, it ran down through the hole and puddled up on the outside of the cylinder wall forming a pool all the way to the inside of the intake chamber, where it pooled up behind the valve seat. I shaped it a bit with the dremel to clean it up some, but man is that stuff hard! I'm not going to be using this engine for high performance racing, so I don't think any changes in airflow will be a problem.
After making the repair, I ground the valve stem to the proper clearance, then lapped it in well. After I felt it was properly seated, I poured the chamber full of SeaFoam to see if it leaked anywhere. So far it's been about an hour and it's still full so here's to hoping the repair holds!
Maine Miller, I wish I could replace the jug on this engine, however they're cast as one piece with the block. This is basically my last ditch effort to save this engine. If this doesn't hold up, I will be looking to swap the engine with a 23 HP RATO engine.
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Pre heat it good and stick weld with nickel alloy rod.
Ooops, you were posting as I was, disregard.
Nice work. Got my fingers crossed for you! Right up my alley trying to save that thing. I hope it holds.
IF you get a year out of it you'll have earned the money to replace the motor. Looks to me like it should work for awhile. BUT don't go cheap on a new motor and get up around 30HP or better. the price difference for the power is well worth it. The improved torque on an overhead valve engine is noticeable and fuel injected runs better with less headaches.
Bandit, that was along my line of thinking as well regarding getting some life out of this engine.
I was thinking the 25 HP range, but I haven't been running this mill yet. I appreciate any input from anyone sawing for awhile. You have me looking into a little more power now.
In the sawmill world a power plant that does not have spark plugs is king, either of the two options.
The old LT40 was designed for a specific weight range for the power plant.
A 25 hp Kohler, a 38 hp Kohler and a Yanmar diesel are very different in what they weigh.
Sure, more torque is better. No question.
What can the rest of the mill handle up there, and still be able to move?
A Woodmizer techie would be able to answer that.
I had enough time this evening to lap in all the valves; both the new intake valves as well as the existing exhaust valves.
This engine was barely broken in, the factory crosshatching in the cylinders is still clearly visible, and the valve seats cleaned up nicely and well within spec. This is why I hope the repair holds for awhile. Believe me though, I've been looking at upgrading powerplants should it come to that; who wouldn't want a little more HP, right?
That said, I'm thinking tomorrow is going to be the moment of truth. I have everything ready to go back together, I cleaned everything pretty well and I will do the final tidying in the morning and then re-install the valve springs and set up to put the heads and intake back on the block.
I'll probably go ahead and pull the flywheel tomorrow as I'm pretty sure there is a mouse nest underneath. A small field mouse came out from under the other day and scampered off! I managed to get a video of the little thing as it leapt from the mill. I'm hoping the stator is all unscathed.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/63274/20210312_193300.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1615604169)
Gotta have video of the launch!!
Quote from: Southside on March 11, 2021, 10:51:10 PM
In the sawmill world a power plant that does not have spark plugs is king, either of the two options.
Southside;
I get the reality of your comment re Plugs versus injectors BUT there are situations where a diesel is not particularly practical. Thats where I am ay the moment. Gas is a simpler method for me as I don't need storage for 2 different fuels every where I go with the mill.
Also when you look at the torque specs of the top rated V-twin air cooled and water cooled fuel injected gas engines the difference to a similar size diesel is not that great. My Kohler sips fuel for its power rating and it is not stock. I did some performance enhancement polishing/trimming to the heads and intake parts and the ECM is not stock. Dyno test has it at about 34HP with a real good torque rise and gentle hold curve at the top of the rise zone. I could get another 4 or 5 HP but i am happy with it the way it is.
There are mod parts available in Germany as it is a popular ultralight aircraft engine. Apparently there are guys running the 745s up to 50 plus HP in that application but I have yet to find one to talk to.
Well I was also inferring to plugs vs magnetic starters.... ;D. Didn't realize you could mod the small engines to that degree and keep them alive. What was the factory HP rating? Are those expensive mods?
The head re work is mostly labor if you get it done by a pro. I had my done by a life long friend that has/runs an engine rebuild machine shop that needed a whack of logs milled so we did some horse tradin. He valued the work and parts at $200 for both heads.
The ECM mods are a result of a cousin that worked in the upper management of Kohler engine R&D untill he retired a year ago. He sent me a thumb drive and and a cable to connect a laptop to the engine and do a "software update". I have no idea what that is worth as it cost me nothing and I have not checked if it is something you can get as an after market product. I assume that it is as the light aviation guys over there seem to be getting some how.
I had the opportunity to work on the engine yesterday. I removed the flywheel and I am glad I did. It was a pain to remove the flywheel, even with a puller. I broke one of the puller bolts on the first attempt and had to run into town for a replacement. The stator definitely needed a good sanding, and one of the magnets had come loose from the flywheel. I mixed up some west system epoxy with colloidal silica for a good adhesive and reset the magnet.
I managed to get everything back together on the engine with the exception of the cooling shroud as I ended up helping a friend load a big trailer with my skid-steer. It took a 2 hour chunk out of the middle of the afternoon, so I really didn't have time to do the final connections and get the chance to start it. Interestingly the full gasket set I bought for the engine was not a full gasket set as it did not contain the 3 valve cover gaskets so I had to use silicone. Not a huge deal other than it not being a true full set of gaskets as advertised.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/63274/20210313_191937.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1615724021)
I'll be heading out after coffee this morning to do the final inspection and then attempt to fire it up!
GOOD LUCK this morning.
Well? Where's the sawdust?
Quote from: donbj on March 14, 2021, 08:46:45 PM
Well? Where's the sawdust?
LOL! I'm a little ways away from there, but for now the old Briggs is running strong! Tomorrow I will rebuild the hydraulic blade tensioner and may spin a blade.
I don't know how to upload videos here yet, but below is a link to a short video I just uploaded of the first test run:
First test run 1990 18HP Briggs (https://youtu.be/VF9V2Nycvis)
Good job boy! It sounds real good to this old mechanic.
You did the video thing right, can't directly upload to the Forum.
Great job on the motor!
Most microphones don't record motor sounds very well, but that B&S farty fart fart sound on YouTube is perfect.
You're moving this ahead really well and mechanical skills are in your wheelhouse too.
Keep up the good work and don't get tempted to rush it. 👍👍
Awesome! That is so rewarding. Your thoughtful methodical approach is paying off big time. You're going to have a fine machine when you're done.
Is there a reason the starter engaged when you shut the engine down? Last few seconds of the video.
Quote from: Southside on March 15, 2021, 06:46:38 AM
Is there a reason the starter engaged when you shut the engine down? Last few seconds of the video.
I believe it is because I had the battery + directly wired to the starter to test it out. When I hit the kill switch it grounded just enough to engage the starter a bit.
The ignition switch wasn't sending voltage to the starter so I jumped it out. It shouldn't do that once everything is wired properly with a new switch. Good eye!
Sounds great. now for some sawdust.
This evening I had the opportunity to remove the hydraulic blade tensioner and rebuild the unit.
Previously I had turned the tensioner handle all the way in only to hear a bit of a spurting noise instead of the the wheel tightening. I had ordered a new seal kit from Wood-Mizer when I noticed this, just before diving into the engine overhaul. Now that the engine is running, I turned my attention to other areas that need attention.
The tensioner was a fairly straightforward process. I first removed it completely from the saw and disassembled it on the bench. All the seals were completely crumbling, no way they could have held any pressure whatsoever. I cleaned everything up really well with brake cleaner and installed all the new seals. After speaking with a tech a while back at Wood-Mizer about the tensioner, he told me a little trick that made refilling it much easier (aside from the ATF shower I gave myself at first). I had the main plunger fully retracted and the two 90° blocks reattached to one another. Before putting the top assembly and rear piston in, I filled the cylinder with ATF before installing the remainder of the block and cylinder. At first I had the plug out and pressed the piston into the cylinder, fluid shot straight down my pants leg! Clearly I needed to first install the fill plug. I refilled it and then bolted everything back together on the saw. I purged the air once the assembly was mounted in place.
The only blade I have currently is the rusty one that was on it. I'm sure it's 20+ years old, and I won't be sending it through a log, but I did put 2200 psi on the tensioner. I have yet to replace the drive belts, from talking with the tech at Wood-Mizer the two belts have been replaced by a double belt.
Looking good. I'm sure you know but try to get a matched set of belts. I've heard also that the quality of the good brands has the length very precise and match pretty much off the shelf between two. I may be wrong.
If you don't have one get a drive belt tension gauge. Drive belt tension is often over looked but critical to success when sawing. Too loose and band performance suffers, too tight and you can wreck bearings and even break the engine crank shaft.
That belt tension gauge is a major money and time saver BESIDE give you a leg up on maintaining good quality in the lumber you produce.
When you've been around belt drives as long as some of us have you get pretty confident in your own arm and the "push/pull test we have done for years on most belts, BUT trust me, this is not the place to depend on that test no matter how good you may be at it. the gauge removes any guess work and ALL doubt.
Order the gauge with the new drive belt.
Congrats on the great purchase and resurrection of this mill!!! you will get a ton of enjoyment out of it at a fraction of the cost you could of spent!!!! be sure to post another video once you are ready to mill a log!!!
(great thread!!! I read it all just now.. lol)
Enjoying following your progress, Keep up the good work
This evening I checked a little further into the drive assembly. The 470uF 50v capacitor I soldered into the control board did the trick for that, but one of the leads on the mosfet board had become corroded, heated up the board and melted some of the solder. I re-tinned the area, cleaned the bolt and terminal, and put it all back together. I had both forward and reverse control and the speed control knob slowed the motor commensurate to the position of the knob; I'll call that one a win for now. I am going to have to replace the drum switch as the mechanism to hold the handle in place is pretty much corroded beyond repair.
Once operational, the motor seemed a little rough. The original belts were a contributing factor, but ultimately I believe I need to open the drive motor and give it some attention.
I will be ordering the new double drive belt, tensioner scale, the blade brake belt, and the drive assembly belts from Wood-Mizer tomorrow. I think it's time for a box of blades as well!
My 94 came with a brake belt(leather). Don't know if this is what you are looking at. They have an upgrade that I purchased that is a metal band with a brake lining that replaces the belt. Not sure if it fits your mill. Very good upgrade!
Quote from: donbj on March 18, 2021, 02:55:12 AM
My 94 came with a brake belt(leather). Don't know if this is what you are looking at. They have an upgrade that I purchased that is a metal band with a brake lining that replaces the belt. Not sure if it fits your mill. Very good upgrade!
Yes, the leather belt is what is (was) on there currently. It's in 2 pieces so it stops nothing. I will definitely go for the upgraded material.
I'm almost ready to saw a log!
I did end up pulling the drive motor apart. It looked almost brand new inside, though the outside looked really weathered. The housing got a wire wheeling and a coat of spray paint, it suspiciously matches the new paint job on my wife's big flower pot she just fixed up...
The bearings felt a bit rough, I soaked it with penetrating oil and rotated it until it felt pretty smooth. I plan to pull the motor again tomorrow and take it to a local electric motor shop to get a new bearing. There is a guy here locally who is the sole proprietor of his shop, he's always got a shop full of electric motors to repair, but I generally come in for parts for my motors and he'll stop for a bit to help me out and chat. He's impressed that someone younger than himself can actually repair something.
I did go ahead and reassemble the motor and install it on the mill just to test it out. It seems to be functioning properly, but I know that the bearings won't last long after having been so crusty.
As I wait for the final parts and a box of new blades, I will continue to wear out wire wheels on the drive rails...they got pretty rusty sitting outside for over a decades.
I ended up buying my first box of blades from Jerry's Resharp. A box of 10° 737s. I intend to purchase a box of blades from Wood-Mizer to compare. What do you guys recommend? I was thinking of the double-hard blades.
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The blades that work best for you will be the ones that work with the kind of wood you mill, the power you have to work with and way you operate.
* You're Central Florida, so you could be cutting SYP or Live Oak. For the oak, you 'll want 4 degree blades, probably not the 10's. Onna other hand, if you're cutting cypress, 10 degree might be fine. My oak logs are usually frozen, yours probably won't be. Green wood cuts easier than dried out logs, etc. etc.
* Your motor is on the petite side for an Lt40, so generally, a four degree blade will cut better rather than the more aggressive 10 degree. A big diesel motor will cut much faster, but your mill will be able to cut just as straight as a power-house mill.
* There was a recent discussion between sawyers about WM's Silver Tip, Double Hard, carbide and other blade types. @YellowHammer (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=11488) and someone else (sorry guys, can't remember nothin' after a week of ice fishing) concluded that the least expensive Silvertip blade was just as good as any other because they sharpened in-house, and sharpened as soon as the blade showed signs of being dull. Drive belt tension, alignment, feed rate, and voodoo spells all come into play with blade selection.
* WM used to offer a variety pack of bands - that might be a good option for you, as you get the mill acquainted with the logs.
I like the idea of a "variety pack" of blades. That sounds the most helpful in seeing how they'll work for me.
I was given a BUNCH of hardwood and cypress logs that are about a year old now. My former neighbor had a couple hundred acres of timber harvested. They were staging the hardwoods and cypress separately, COVID and the Canadian tariffs happened and none of the mills here would take anything but pine anymore. My neighbor had already been partially paid for the timber when the broker called him and said they wouldn't be taking the hardwood and cypress. He actually called me to ask if I could bring my backhoe to clear an area and burn all the logs! It's probably 8-10 semi loads! I told him I would instead come get the logs. He said he didn't care as long as the lot was cleared!
There's a lot of oak and cypress and a fair mix of hickory and cherry. None of it is frozen for sure; if that ever happens here we've got serious problems!
I realize the 18HP Briggs is on the lighter side when it comes to HP. I intend to run it for awhile while I get used to milling, and later put on a bigger powerplant when I'm more proficient with the machine and it's hopefully earning its keep. For now though, I have that little Briggs twin cylinder purring nicely!
I would recommend going with the Silver Tips. I have switched over to them myself and don't ever plan to go back to Double Hards, they cut just as long and have better flex life. I am also a big fan of the Turbo profile, but at 18HP they might not be the best choice for pine and hardwood, they should do fine in your Cypress. My 35 with a 25HP Kohler does just fine with them in all wood. I would try a regular 7 in the pine and you may find it works better than 4's do in your circumstances.
Silver Tips cut as long at nearly half the price. I haven't used Double Hards for awhile, and don't ever see a need to.
@Andries (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=9307),
Do people actually go ice fishing? I thought it was just a myth....
I have been checking out some 25+HP engines as I'd eventually like to upgrade the 18HP Briggs. It's running well right now, so my current intention is to run the 18HP for a year and then look at swapping it out for something in the 25HP range.
Another thought is we have an old wood-chipper that was given to us without an engine. It's pretty robust and could definitely handle 18HP. My wife is interested in getting I running as she loves the mulch for our chickens and garden. I am working on making it her idea to put the Briggs on the wood-chipper and upgrading the LT40. The key here is making it her idea. I've planted the seed, now I'm nurturing the thought...
Your chipper would actually come in quite handy as a means of waste disposal. This is what chips look like after 4 years of being in a pile. Nothing added, never turned, just squished into a pile.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/34297/KIMG0999.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1616367143)
Quote from: YellowHammer on March 21, 2021, 04:54:48 PM
@Andries (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=9307),
Do people actually go ice fishing? I thought it was just a myth....
Yes, they actually do, but it takes hearty stock to endure and not a lot of folks want to spend all that time it takes to cut a hole to slide your boat in.
Quote from: Southside on March 21, 2021, 06:52:50 PM
Your chipper would actually come in quite handy as a means of waste disposal. This is what chips look like after 4 years of being in a pile. Nothing added, never turned, just squished into a pile.
This is exactly the kind of thing I need to show my wife. Living in Florida, we need organic material for the garden constantly.
Questions for the experts:
I have heard that nothing grows under a walnut tree - will walnut sawdust in the garden hinder the growth of veggies?
Will walnut sawdust around blueberry bushes stunt their growth or worse kill them?
Is there any species of wood whose sawdust should not be used in the garden?
GAB
Yes, you will need organic matter there, the decomposition never stops in your soil. I don't sell the stuff in that photo - it goes onto our farm ground, but I do sell one and two year old composted chips for $20 / yard, they are well broken down and make a great soil amendment.
Just know that chip mulch will tie up nitrogen while it's breaking down so plan accordingly.
To answer your question GAB I don't separate out any of the sawdust or chips, even the walnut, it all goes into the compost pile. That being said, "The solution to pollution is dilution" so a relatively small volume of walnut in 2,000 tons of compost doesn't cause me any issues. A straight 55 gallon drum of it onto a garden might be a different matter but I suspect the juglone in the walnut looses it's potency after the tree is dead. I do know there have been conflicting studies of the impact it will have on horses foundering that make it look more like an urban legend than fact.
Quote from: YellowHammer on March 21, 2021, 04:54:48 PMDo people actually go ice fishing? I thought it was just a myth....
Not a myth, and as with all fishing, may be be open for 'embroidering' around the facts and figures.
Truth be told, opening enough ice for the boat, as OldGreenhorn mentioned further back, did turn out to be a lot of work. We old Canadian hearty stock needed a new modus operandi.
So, after dock building, we'd take the truck out on the lake for a spin and stick the poles out of the window. Trolling for walleye in four wheel low worked out best.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/19307/20210318_134245.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1616104482)
In-dash depth finder isn't an option on the old Dodge, but she holds a lot of fish! 😆
Brob1969, if you could indulge your highly focused elders as (Yellowhammer) takes us far away from your very well executed and most excellent thread, I needed to show you what a small horse power WM can do.
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This is a smallish fishing shack made with an LT30. . . and yes, that is ice on the lake. Weird, eh?
Sorry for rising to YH's bait, and derailing your thread. 😆
Andries that's one heckuva fishing shack!
Brob1969, it's actually a guest cottage for a very well off client.
All in the name of the "fishy truths" re ice fishing that YH enjoys. A NorthSouth rib poking tradition.
Plesse don't let us derail your thread, which I'm enjoying.
That ice shack looks better than my house!
And I would never have to mow the lawn!
On the waste question, if your burning laws allow, transform it into ashes and spread that out. Burning concentrates the minerals, decreases the bulk, and sweetens the pH. It is a an incredible soil amendment.
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Last Thursday I ordered a box of Ripper 37s from Jerry's Resharp. The website still shows the order status as "pending". I do hope to get the blades this week as I'd like to try this saw out this weekend!
I have now spent several hours and a few wire cup wheels on the angle grinder cleaning up the rusted guide rails.
The rails I have worked feel smooth to the touch, but still have slight dimples where the rust cut into the steel. You can see from one of these pictures the texture. I got the majority of the top rail done, and a section of the bottom done where I moved the gantry.
Do I need to get the rails perfectly smooth? Or will it cut well as-is?
When I was running the 60" circular with the 5/16" Kerf I made a lot of sawdust. To get rid of it I had a sign I'd put out by the road that said "free sawdust". That helped much but I lost many potential takers if I had black walnut sawdust mixed in as it will kill a horse. Those people with horses always asked if there was any mixed in before they loaded up.
Quote from: Brob1969 on March 23, 2021, 10:59:00 AM
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Last Thursday I ordered a box of Ripper 37s from Jerry's Resharp. The website still shows the order status as "pending". I do hope to get the blades this week as I'd like to try this saw out this weekend!
I have now spent several hours and a few wire cup wheels on the angle grinder cleaning up the rusted guide rails.
The rails I have worked feel smooth to the touch, but still have slight dimples where the rust cut into the steel. You can see from one of these pictures the texture. I got the majority of the top rail done, and a section of the bottom done where I moved the gantry.
Do I need to get the rails perfectly smooth? Or will it cut well as-is?
Those rails are just fine. The rollers only track on about 1/16-1/8 of an inch anyway. Rust anywhere else doesn't matter for operation but it's good to keep them in good shape in that regard. Just give a good clean./light sanding along the tracking surface and your good to go.
i like donbj's answer.
Once you get your first thousand board feet cut, the track and rollers will have smoothed each other out. It's cold rolled and case hardened steel, so if they're a bit rough, you may wear out a set of top rollers a bit sooner.
If you're milling resin-rich wood, bumps of pitch will squash onto the rail and make it bumpy. There are plastic top rail scrapers that fit under the roller covers, front and back. Their job is to keep the rails clean.
Those scrapers are probably more important than a few rust pits in the rail itself.
Thanks guys, that's what I was hoping to hear. I really appreciate this forum and all the collective knowledge here. I hope that one day all the experience I've gained going through this mill will be valuable or at least encouraging to someone else in the future.
I managed to get a topcoat of orange over the primer this evening. Eventually I would like to paint the entire mill, but for now I am focusing on the main operational parts and ensuring that I get rid of the rust before it becomes problematic. So far I haven't found anything structural.
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Congrats and hopefully that paint on the top of the top rail will not cause you a paint buildup problem on your cam followers. It shouldn't but just be on the lookout and clean it off if it causes a problem.
My thought was to run the head back and forth a bit to give me the exact run of the mill, then go back with a flapwheel to take it back to bare metal and keep it lubed with ATF. I wanted to be sure to get between the bed and the guiderail really well and just sprayed the whole thing in the process.
I plan to keep it lubed well moving forward. I should have bought stock in a wire wheel company before I started this!
Gotta love those chunks of wire that break free and impale into your arm....
Quote from: Southside on March 23, 2021, 10:20:47 PM
Gotta love those chunks of wire that break free and impale into your arm....
More than one so far for sure!
I just ordered 4 more wheels off Amazon. Same brand and same size that I was paying $17 locally is $8 online.
They arrive next day.
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It went in, came out, and then went back in. :-X
Quote from: Magicman on March 24, 2021, 08:06:54 AM
It went in, came out, and then went back in. :-X
Ouch! I'll bet pulling it out with needle-nose pliers was fun!
Stainless steel sutures. :o
at the rate of progress your going at I would repaint the entire mill before you get sawing with it!! it looks awesome!! you seem to be able to get quite a bit done quickly.. keep at it!
looking fantastic!
Really enjoying this thread. Don't have a lot to contribute as you have a good head on your shoulders for this. Like how you operate.
I got a box of blades delivered today!
I have to change out the drum switch on the drive unit tomorrow morning, then I am going to put a log on the deck!
Quote from: Brob1969 on March 26, 2021, 08:38:33 PM
I got a box of blades delivered today!
I have to change out the drum switch on the drive unit tomorrow morning, then I am going to put a log on the deck!
Stick that old blade you have on it to test run it just to make sure everything is running true.. Hate to smoke a blade if something goes sideways on you. Not that I don't have faith in your work :D
well.... how does that baby cut?????
He must have hit a nail or something
Lol! I have not yet put a log on...
I did go through the entire alignment procedure this weekend and while doing so noticed that the drive chain (which of course had been weathering for over a decade) had a broken link in addition to several links that wouldn't straighten out. The entire chain was pretty rusty and looked quite questionable.
I ordered a 50' roll of #40 roller chain (I believe that's the correct size for the LT40) that will arrive Thursday.
As bad as I want to cut with this mill, I want to be sure it's right when I run it. The alignment was pretty straightforward and only required a few minor adjustments, including the lower bearings. The rusty chain has been giving me some unwanted movement as the carriage rolls down the track, enough that I felt it would transfer to the lumber. I also didn't want it to break in the middle of a cut.
Stay tuned: I have an oak log staged as soon as I get the new chain on the mill. I will definitely get video of the first cuts!
Also, the honey-do list is long, and the next couple days of waiting on parts should assuage my wife for a bit.
I went through and set all the alignment on my LT15 on Sunday also.
Yes, it's wise not to ignore the honey-do list for too long...
Quote from: Brob1969 on March 30, 2021, 12:09:32 PM
Lol! I have not yet put a log on...
I did go through the entire alignment procedure this weekend and while doing so noticed that the drive chain (which of course had been weathering for over a decade) had a broken link in addition to several links that wouldn't straighten out. The entire chain was pretty rusty and looked quite questionable.
I ordered a 50' roll of #40 roller chain (I believe that's the correct size for the LT40) that will arrive Thursday.
As bad as I want to cut with this mill, I want to be sure it's right when I run it. The alignment was pretty straightforward and only required a few minor adjustments, including the lower bearings. The rusty chain has been giving me some unwanted movement as the carriage rolls down the track, enough that I felt it would transfer to the lumber. I also didn't want it to break in the middle of a cut.
Stay tuned: I have an oak log staged as soon as I get the new chain on the mill. I will definitely get video of the first cuts!
Also, the honey-do list is long, and the next couple days of waiting on parts should assuage my wife for a bit.
Keep up the good work! The Honey side of things is just as important.
So my roll of #41 roller chain came in this afternoon in just enough time to be able to replace the old damaged chain. That REALLY made a huge difference in how smoothly the carriage travels.
I went through the alignment procedure and I have everything according to the manual now. I did have to adjust the lower bearings to bring the saw level to the lock bed. The manual states get it dead level, but I've read here in the forums of guys setting it so the idle wheel is at a 1/16th incline. What is the experience here for the truest cut?
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/63274/20210402_182414.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1617418846)
The 1/16" up with the guide all yhe way out is to compensate for any downward pull on the head as the blade is under load. It can be achieved by adjusting the outer guide when putting the 1/4" down on the guides.
Quote from: Brob1969 on April 02, 2021, 11:21:00 PM
So my roll of #41 roller chain came in this afternoon in just enough time to be able to replace the old damaged chain. That REALLY made a huge difference in how smoothly the carriage travels.
I went through the alignment procedure and I have everything according to the manual now. I did have to adjust the lower bearings to bring the saw level to the lock bed. The manual states get it dead level, but I've read here in the forums of guys setting it so the idle wheel is at a 1/16th incline. What is the experience here for the truest cut?
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/63274/20210402_182414.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1617418846)
You're going to have trouble keeping your logs on the deck running it like that :D
smiley_headscratch popcorn_smiley
Quote from: Chuck White on April 03, 2021, 06:43:51 PM
smiley_headscratch popcorn_smiley
Just a smart remark about his upside down picture
That explains everything! :)
Had me going for a while!
Quote from: donbj on April 03, 2021, 10:49:56 PM
Quote from: Chuck White on April 03, 2021, 06:43:51 PM
smiley_headscratch popcorn_smiley
Just a smart remark about his upside down picture
I don't know how the picture got that way; nor do I know what to do to upright it.
But I cut my first log yesterday evening!
So yesterday I had a lot of things I had to do before I could get to work on the sawmill.
About 3:30 in the afternoon I was done with my obligations and a couple of friends stopped by to see the progress on the sawmill.
We moved the mill into the shade and I went and grabbed a trash oak log with my skid-steer from the area adjacent to where we setup the mill. Being the first cut I didn't want to mess up a premium log if things weren't just right yet.
Evidently things are right though as all my cuts were straight, square, and the same thickness on both sides!
The Ripper 37s went through the old oak like a hot knife through butter!
I was smiling the whole time.
It was a gnarly old log that had been on the ground for at least a couple years. I knew there was some rot, but there was still some decent wood in it. There are a couple pieces my wife wants to use for benches; she's been itching to do some epoxy filling. I have enough good wood to replace the decking on the duck tail of my equipment trailer, which given the fact that I wasn't expecting much structural stuff from this particular log is pretty good.
I still have to work on the log turner and the winch system (ultimately I plan to add hydraulics), but the mill is functional and cuts like it is supposed to!
I have a video of the first cut I will upload later and put a link here.
I REALLY appreciate all the great information here on this forum, and even more I appreciate all the encouragement from everyone here who also has sawdust in their veins!
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/63274/20210403_165250.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1617549095)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/63274/image000000.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1617549854)
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Nice job and congratulations! When are you going to build the kiln? :D
Awesome job on the ol' mizer!
The second pic showed you backing up with the blade spinning. I would advise against that because a blade will only go around so many times before it breaks from metal fatigue. Also it can get thrown off easily and consequently wrecked.
Also when a heavy cant is sitting on a flat you generally don't need to dog it.
Not criticizing just sayin'
I appreciate any tips and advice from anyone with experience! I did stop the blade after most of my cuts, but obviously not this time! I didn't know about dogging the cant.
I am about to go out and cut a few more logs, I appreciate any suggestions!
Quote from: Southside on April 04, 2021, 11:32:50 AM
Nice job and congratulations! When are you going to build the kiln? :D
Actually, one of the guys that came over yesterday is putting together a cut-sheet for the kiln!
I already did one for the new pole barn. I'm pretty excited to be cutting on this old 'Mizer!
You want to be really careful about not dogging a cant. The band will pull them sometimes and if it's not clamped down expensive things can get broken.
Quote from: Southside on April 04, 2021, 12:37:34 PM
You want to be really careful about not dogging a cant. The band will pull them sometimes and if it's not clamped down expensive things can get broken.
X2
Quote from: Southside on April 04, 2021, 12:37:34 PM
You want to be really careful about not dogging a cant. The band will pull them sometimes and if it's not clamped down expensive things can get broken.
When I was first positioning the log (before the first cut) I was thinking it would have been nice to have another clamp on the bed as the not-so-straight log was difficult to get secured to the stops before I had a flat side.
Does anyone add another dog to their Wood-Mizers?
Looks like you got this figured out. Looks awesome. Feels good when things work out like this. And yes always clamp what you're cutting
I haven't ever seen an additional clamp, manual or hydraulic, on a WM sawmill.
On extensions, yes, but not on the main mill bed.
If my cant is 8" high and 18" wide, I may not clamp up. Like Southside said, use your experience to be your guide.
Woodmizer calls the swivel up arms "side supports" and the small welded on blocks are called stops. It's a language thingy, but as long as we understand one another, its all good.
If I have a short, gnarly log on the mill and it just doesn't want to fetch up against a side support, I'll pull a 2x6 out from its special storage spot (under the mill) and set it between the supports and the log. Especially with Ugly Betty logs, or as a clamping bar for edging 1" boards for stickers, the odd piecE of lumber is very handy to have onhand.
Quote from: Brob1969 on April 04, 2021, 12:44:16 PM
Quote from: Southside on April 04, 2021, 12:37:34 PM
You want to be really careful about not dogging a cant. The band will pull them sometimes and if it's not clamped down expensive things can get broken.
When I was first positioning the log (before the first cut) I was thinking it would have been nice to have another clamp on the bed as the not-so-straight log was difficult to get secured to the stops before I had a flat side.
Does anyone add another dog to their Wood-Mizers?
I have two dogs on my little manual mill for just this reason. Hydraulic guys don't have to deal with this. In reality, it doesn't need to be a dog per se, but something similar to hold the log close to the back stops so the dog will finish the clamping job. Can also do it with a cant hook, but that's when i find myself doing a four hand task with two hands. Awkward for one person, but easy with a helper.
Nice job on the find, the restoration, and making your first sawdust. Awesome.
Congrats,
I've been following your progress too.
It really feels good to see your work pay off.
Congratulations on your accomplishment! I built a version of pinywoods hydraulic clamp/turner on an lt30 I had. That thing was a game changer for sure. Keep up the good work
Congrats! Nice to see you got the old girl up and running and ready to be productive for you for years to come.
I've been following your thread and want to say congratulations! I'm glad you got it straightened out and cutting wood.
Save one of those first boards, I kept mine just because. Dream realized, it's attached to the mill shed congratulations on getting the mill going 👏.. well done.
Quote from: Nebraska on April 04, 2021, 10:14:43 PM
Save one of those first boards, I kept mine just because. Dream realized, it's attached to the mill shed congratulations on getting the mill going 👏.. well done.
I don't think I have a choice! I kept trying to toss scabs in my firewood pile and my wife kept pulling them out saying she had a use for it. I may have to start hiding my scraps!
Quote from: Crossroads on April 04, 2021, 06:16:11 PM
Congratulations on your accomplishment! I built a version of pinywoods hydraulic clamp/turner on an lt30 I had. That thing was a game changer for sure. Keep up the good work
Do you have any pictures of your clamp/turner? I assume there is a thread on Pineywood's project? I will see if I can locate it to check out.
I found the thread on Pineywood's turner; I'll definitely be using this for the near future.
A friend of mine was telling me that he sees guys using their cart to put golf clubs on and drive around on freshly mowed grass!
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/63274/20210403_192552.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1617627078)
Quote from: Brob1969 on April 05, 2021, 08:51:56 AMA friend of mine was telling me that he sees guys using their cart to put golf clubs on and drive around on freshly mowed grass!
My Golf Carts have never seen "golf clubs". We have 2 and will be picking up a 3th next week.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/DSCN0917.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1327445001)
But they can haul farm stuff quite nicely.
Quote from: Magicman on April 05, 2021, 10:15:47 AM
Quote from: Brob1969 on April 05, 2021, 08:51:56 AMA friend of mine was telling me that he sees guys using their cart to put golf clubs on and drive around on freshly mowed grass!
My Golf Carts have never seen "golf clubs". We have 2 and will be picking up a 3th next week.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/DSCN0917.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1327445001)
But they can haul farm stuff quite nicely.
We have a couple as well. The one in my picture above is the one I use most, it looks a lot like yours, '98 EZGO electric with a 500a controller, 22" tires get it up high enough to go through some pretty rough terrain. I added a receiver hitch so I could pull a trailer. I was surprised by the pulling power! I've had a loaded 12' trailer and it had no issues. We used it for a hayride once and had 5 hay bales, 5 adults and 7 kids pulling through the trails in the woods.
It's a huge part of our daily lives; I have "projects" all over the property and sometimes the tool I need is a LONG walk away, but just a quick cart ride. My wife put a golf ball in one of the cup holders so we could justify calling it a golf cart; since we've owned it It's never carried a golf club. Plenty of shovels, chainsaws, wrenches, concrete, and whatever else needed to get from A to B...but no golf clubs!
3th? :D :D :D
Thath thwut hee thed!
Congratulations on your build and refurbish . i have enjoyed your thread .
As much work as it has been, it's one of those things that didn't really seem like work because I was enjoying it immensely.
I had to touch nearly every piece on the mill and therefore got to know it really well. Definitely got an understanding of how it's put together much better than if I got a mill that I just put gas in and started sawing.
I still have a few tweaks to do and a few modifications I want to add, but it's making straight lumber!
I don't have any pictures of the clamp, but I followed piney's prints and directions pretty close. It worked very well as a turner and a clamp. It was faster and more controlled than the spring loaded turner on my lt40.
Quote from: LeeB on April 05, 2021, 03:02:37 PM3th? :D :D
I may be tongue tied, but I can count. :)
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Da turd came yesterday. All three are gas powered.
I finally started moving logs to mill this week.
Getting ready to make a lot of sawdust!
Wondering what blade you guys would recommend on this one...
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/63274/20210413_130855~0.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1618333928)
say_what never saw one like that before.
It looks like a five stud mangrove - very rare.
Only our in-house Dendrologist would be able to do a positive ID. @WDH (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=4370)
Hmmmm . . . a bias-ply Whippet from Canadian Tire wouldn't work well. Too British.
You're in Fl. so perhaps it's best to go with a full radial Michelin.
That way it's compatible with the French Patois occasionally found down on the Bayou.
CYPRESS!! score!!
That tree ate a home made mill. Only the blade wheel from one side is still visible!
The tree won that one!