I had mentioned that I have bought a LT15.
It was advertised as a 2005, according to the manual and the serial # written in it it is a 2002.
I got the bed setup in a spot where its mostly out of my way, I took one section off for now because it doesn't have leveling screws
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I set the head on and while giving it a look through found it would not lower all the way.
The 2 black guards were hitting. after much examination and work, I found the bottom sprocket was assembled wrong.
After getting it pretty close to aligned, I had to cut 1 link out of the chain to gain some adjustment, and then twist the bracket to get it aligned with the chain. I still need to get a bolt to put in the bracket.
So now the head moves up and down pretty good.
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I started to go through the alignment procedure and will have to soak the blade guides in penetrating oil to free the adjustments up.
I got impatient and decided to get one of the smaller logs I have and see if i can make something other than firewood with it.
My first cut, taking it very cautiously.
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one side ready to roll
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my result, 3 descent 2x9 1 fair 2 1/2 x9 and a bunch of stickers
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Now back to work on the blade guides and wait for blades and the alignment tool from Woodmizer.
I ordered a box of the 4degree blades
Edit I do see some waves but I know the roller guides are not putting any pressure on the blade, and I am not sure of the blade condition.
I moved one clamp to make it easier to clamp a 8' log.
I will probably order the upgraded clamps.
Fixed pictures
Congratulations
You will like sawing!!
What's the plan for the lumber?
Get yourself a Logrite cantdog or a peavey to help turn those logs. Sponsor on the left, nice tools, nice people!!
I plan on getting some stuff from Logrite. Fortunately I have forks for the bobcat, it makes moving logs alot easier.
I don't have any definite plans for the lumber.
In 2012 I had about 1200 board feet of oak and cherry sawn from blow downs (there were a lot of bad storms that year) and still have most of it.
I have been using some for odd projects. its a bit strange to grab a piece of oak to do something i would normally by some cheap pine for.
I am tired of seeing some good logs and some interesting logs get cut up for firewood.
I just use it for campfires, and its hard to get people to come get it. Firewood here sells so low i am not going to put that much work in for minimal payback.
I cut 3 very big oak trees this year, I think poison Ivy killed them. I will have to split the logs to fit them on the mill.
there are some crotches the limbs are over 2' dia.
I myself try to keep my tractor away from my mill. Except for the real big ones. A peavey does a lot less damage to a mill than a 40 hp tractor. ;D
I'm guessing that it won't be long before you move it farther away from your building. Mills are one of those things that need room around them. I usually load the mill with the loader, then park it with the grapple up where I can throw the slabs on it, then unload lumber from the back or front depending on what help I have available. I have on occasion milled one or two small logs with the mill in the storage shed because it wasn't convenient to move it for such a small job, but it's not fun, and probably not the safest thing to do. You need room to saw.
I didn't plan on putting the mill there. I had to pick the driest most solid ground I had to put it.
I do have it a little close to the barn.
I got the blade rollers of and have started to clean them up, they are in pretty poor condition.
I had noticed a couple spots where the carriage had seemed to bind, but only while cutting.
I took one set of bearings off to clean up and probably replace.
Does woodmizer have any good parts manuals? The owners manual doesn't list much.
congratulations on the new mill. WM does have a parts manual on line. Call WM and register the yourself as the new owner. A lot of good information on the FF and a lot of good people that can help .WM also gives lifetime technical support for all WM owners. When you have trouble give them a call.
After looking at things a bit more, and realizing that the whole mill really needs a good maintenance.
I have ordered
new roller guide assemblies, the old ones are in poor shape, badly corroded and the rollers have about 1mm taper
New track rollers, they are standard bearings but needing replacement.
the center track cover, the description says with felt, I don't see any felt.
track scrapers, MIA
Band vibration damping block, in the top of the drive side cover, I see 2 holes but nothing there.
The band wheel bearings seem to be ok, no noise or roughness.
Hopefully this will make things all right, along with some cleaning and lubing.
I'm not so sure the felt cover for the operator side track is available anymore. Problem was the felt was glued to the bracket and came off after awhile, mine did. My mill also had little felt wipers on the outside of the bearing boxes. They replaced those with simpler bracket and felt. You can also buy felt (McMaster Carr is one source) and replace it yourself rivet or super glue.
I've been working on things.
I moved the whole mill to a better spot. I can put the head undercover and get to both sides of the bed.
I replaced all the roller bearings and it rolls much better.
I have cleaned the band wheels, the drive wheel had a lot of buildup. I cleaned both belts and tightened the drive belt.
All the belts look pretty good.
I am still waiting on several things, both guide roller assembly's and the alignment tool are the important things.
I did get the center cover with felt. It's labeled for lt15 wide.
Ill put some pictures up when I'm on a computer.
I am wondering how much this mill was used, as the PO could not raise and lower the head.
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I put that log on just to see how things looked. It is cut in 2 now.
Last night I had put a blade on and it is tracking a bit too far back, I'm going to adjust it tonight, IF it's not storming.
The head did raise and lower it just stopped about 3" high.
Machinebuilder,
You may want to get a drive belt tension gauge from WM or Grainger. The newer LT15's (2006 & up I believe) have a hole in the cover over the mid span of the drive belt so you can accurately measure the tension. You can drill a hole so you can insert the tool on the older LT15's.
The blade alignment tool for $20 is well worth it also.
Things I did on my same mill: Added double roller bearings to log stay ends-to save money I bought the bearings open stock not WM, on Amazon plus hot dipped galvanized bolts washers and nuts. Drilling is the main work there but logs turn far easier.
Tool try on battery box top. Switched to a better water jug from Amazon. Set levelers on white oak tie cuts. Bought a foam wrapper generic for air filter that mice chew up. I have Kohler Command pro which has larger oil filters , gas filters and replaced fuel shutoff when it died from Chinese also Chinses clone carb. Belt are now Amazon B57 and work fine.
Shed with roof and cheapo HF 1/2T chain hoist to spin big logs from rear beam mount via nylon/polyester straps.
Get a hand spray btl (WD40 btls work great) which allows use of ATF around your mills chains and other threads and sliding parts. Get a broom to clean off guide rails. Lowe's for SS hand wire brushes best price to clean mud. Axe to pop off bark. Snow shovel for sawdust at times.
Find a blade sharpening source that avoids blade shipping if possible. New are easy but re-sharps can be costly to ship.
I've got the alignment tool on order, I need to call and find out what's happening with it and the blade guides.
Its a 2002 model, I tightened the drive belt to what I normally feel on Vbelts, maybe 3/4" play on the long side.
Kentuckid, I know of you from ADVRider.
I like your ideas, at this point I need to get it working to cut some ties for a better foundation and beams to use for a roof.
I've got plenty of oak logs right know, many I'll have to cut down to fit on the mill.
A V belt running an alternator and one running a band saw band are two different animals. Belt tension is probably the most overlooked thing on mills. Too loose and your cut performance will suffer as the band slows down, even a couple hundred FPM and you will have waves in your lumber. Too tight and things like engine cranks break. The tension gauge will save you hours of frustration and help to reduce the production of designer firewood.
Yes, setting the drive belt tension correctly is critical to producing flat cuts. The first time I did it it took me 40 minutes. Now I can check the drive belt tension in 10 minutes and adjust it. They say to check it every 50 hours, but I check it probably every 25. I bought an hourmeter on the Internet and installed it on my my Lt15. I still don't understand how they specify maintenance and ours yet don't put an hourmeter from the factory on that Mill?
Welcome to the LT15 club and happy sawing!!
I needed some new adjustable feet for mine LT-15 since some threads were damaged from a not to gentle seller moving it with a skidsteer. The local dealer said I could have all I wanted when I stopped by to pick up some other parts since he has left overs when putting a new unit on the mobile trailer set up instead of free standing.
Might want to check and see if your local dealer also has cast offs if you need them.
Quote from: Brad_bb on March 24, 2021, 03:50:50 PM
Yes, setting the drive belt tension correctly is critical to producing flat cuts. The first time I did it it took me 40 minutes. Now I can check the drive belt tension in 10 minutes and adjust it. They say to check it every 50 hours, but I check it probably every 25. I bought an hourmeter on the Internet and installed it on my my Lt15. I still don't understand how they specify maintenance and ours yet don't put an hourmeter from the factory on that Mill?
Mine came with an hour meter from WM. I only miss the tach but honestly other than as a speed check I don't miss any info i need. The Chinese crap I bought as replacement never did work.
FYI
Useful sawmill mods in Sawmills and Milling (http://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,7789.msg1397352/topicseen.html#msg1397352)
also use the search engine.
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Can anyone tell me if the bracket the sprocket is attached to is bolted to the correct side of the welded on bracket?
I'm have interference with the bolt head and the head won't lower completely
I received the roller guides and alignment tool today so I will be working on them now
Quote from: Machinebuilder on March 29, 2021, 05:08:23 PM
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Can anyone tell me if the bracket the sprocket is attached to is bolted to the correct side of the welded on bracket?
I'm have interference with the bolt head and the head won't lower completely
I received the roller guides and alignment tool today so I will be working on them now
I'll try to remember to check mine tonight.
Yours doesn't look the same as my 2005. The bracket is different where it is welded on.
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I didn't read this until now but it does drop straight down with zero angle on that chain. I oil it all the time, including this morning but can look if it matters. I can also go to my mill while on a cell phone and check whatever you want? PM me if that serves a purpose. While on a call I can also mention this and that as I see it on my mill from the 20 years I've owned it. FWIW, I am a professional mechanic and trained in apprenticeship as a millwright so I know machines very well indeed.
Mine has the adjusting bracket and bolt on the top like firefighters.
Quote from: kantuckid on March 30, 2021, 06:00:12 PM
I didn't read this until now but it does drop straight down with zero angle on that chain. I oil it all the time, including this morning but can look if it matters. I can also go to my mill while on a cell phone and check whatever you want? PM me if that serves a purpose. While on a call I can also mention this and that as I see it on my mill from the 20 years I've owned it. FWIW, I am a professional mechanic and trained in apprenticeship as a millwright so I know machines very well indeed.
Thanks
I'm going to recheck the alignment and see what I can figure out. I asked because the chain does look slightly angled and the thickness of the bracket is about how much interference I have.
The mill is a bit more primitive than what I am used to working on. At work I work on CNC mills and Lathes mostly.
Quote from: jpassardi on March 30, 2021, 07:56:30 PM
Mine has the adjusting bracket and bolt on the top like firefighters.
That's interesting, being on the bottom tightening the bolt tightens the chain, the bolt threads into the bracket.
I haven't worked on the Up/Down mechanism more yet. it appears that between 2002 and 2005 there were some big changes.
I have one crank handle for up/down and back/ forth.
having received the alignment tool, I finished the wheel alignment. I had to adjust the drive wheel vertically about 2 turns.
Then I had to readjust the tracking on the idle wheel.
I installed the new blade guides, worked at adjusting them and was almost finished when I discovered the adjustment arm is not contacting the frame at all. so now I need to undo the guides and fix the arm adustment.
I hope I am discovering most of why it cut really wavy, at this point I realize the blade was almost unsupported.
I'm taking my time on all this and get about 1 hour on it each non rainy day, I had over 7" of rain last week.
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°
I was successful.
I'm still using an old questionable blade but the cuts are straight.
This was one of my small not so good logs. I'm going to use them to make a pallet to stack boards on
Happy the test run was a success!
I just did an alignment on my mill and replaced the drive chain, and I am now ready to cut my first test log this weekend.
I appreciated following as you worked through the cutting issues on your mill.
A suggestion: this week when sawing I had the blade support extended toward a relatively narrow cant sawing 2x6's in a stack. I noticed it wobbling a bit and tightened the set screws on the brass sleeve the chromed rod slides in. immediately thereafter I did a blade change and the inside blade guide was a bit loose. Those SS set screws maybe could benefit from some blue Locktite.
Quote from: kantuckid on April 03, 2021, 11:02:49 AM
A suggestion: this week when sawing I had the blade support extended toward a relatively narrow cant sawing 2x6's in a stack. I noticed it wobbling a bit and tightened the set screws on the brass sleeve the chromed rod slides in. immediately thereafter I did a blade change and the inside blade guide was a bit loose. Those SS set screws maybe could benefit from some blue Locktite.
That seems to be another difference on the newer mills I have plastic bushings the blade guide arm rides in.
The lock nuts were almost rust seized to the set screws.
That adjustment is a bit tricky to get moving parallel to the saw frame.
EDIT: My mistake, they are bronze/brass bushings not plastic.
Quote from: Machinebuilder on March 08, 2021, 11:39:13 AMDoes woodmizer have any good parts manuals? The owners manual doesn't list much.
Yes you can get a complete parts manual showing exploded assembies with all parts numbers and descriptions. Hardcopy came with both of the mills I purchased new and PDFs by email just for the asking. The part numbers and diagrams are just like the ones online in their "Shop Parts" tool.
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I've been pretty busy with other things around here so i finally got back to the mill.
I put a brand new 4degree blade on and a older oak log I had saved, and got some really nice straight 6/4 boards and a couple 5/4.
Then I put a pretty gnarly piece of cedar an sawed a few about 4/4x6". that disturbed several carpenter bees that had made it their home.
I have ordered a new tension spring, B57 belts and the upgraded clamps. I really don't like the old cam clamps, it's hard to get them set below center on a log, and if the edge isn't really solid they don't set low enough to clear the blade
I'm pretty happy at this point and am ready to move to some better logs now.
Yes, small logs are hard to hold with these design (screw thread clamps) of log clamps. I often use a sacrificial scrap that extends higher into the blade zone. Also a good technique for a crooked log to keep it away from the mill frame on the other side. On most any decent size logs they work OK and any cant with a squared edge no issues as they are below 4/4 thickness.
I need to buy a few cedar logs for my own project but hopefully closer than TN.
Well there are times when you know you should stop but keep going anyway.
Today I had the up/down jam all the way at the bottom. while getting it unjammed, the small chain master link clip broke.
I was stupid and thought the one side would hold it till I can get another.
well it didn't and the link broke and then the head slammed to the bottom.
It's on hold until I can get a master link, not happening on a Saturday afternoon.
I may not have tensioned the chain enough and it jumped a tooth.
Quote from: kantuckid on April 17, 2021, 09:18:29 AM
Yes, small logs are hard to hold with these design (screw thread clamps) of log clamps. I often use a sacrificial scrap that extends higher into the blade zone. Also a good technique for a crooked log to keep it away from the mill frame on the other side. On most any decent size logs they work OK and any cant with a squared edge no issues as they are below 4/4 thickness.
I need to buy a few cedar logs for my own project but hopefully closer than TN.
I have an older design clamp than the screw clamp, its a 1/4 turn cam that moves a plate for the clamping.
there is maybe 1/2" stroke on it, you have to try to hold the flat to the stops and get the clamp moved close enough and high enough.
I hope the upgrade to the screw clamp works easier.
I have a couple friends with a few cedar logs, there aren't many around that are big and not in a fence.
I sent out several feelers to people in KY selling ERC, no responses yet other than a lady in Beatyville, KY who wanted $1,200 for 5 ERC logs. I messaged her and said I'd pay market value but needed the actual sizes and conditions not just a pic of the base cuts. She replied that they were most all 40' long. :D
I need bigger than a fence post. Need to saw 5 cants 6x6 heartwood for porch posts and ~16-20 railing s 4x4 heartwood by ~8' all. I do get to Knoxville occasionally as one of our sons lives there on Northshore near Krogers & the lake.
This is the clamps I have
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Yea, those are sucky indeed.
Mine are a machine thread with a C-clamp style handle and a post that raises to selected height. Tney would be improved via an acme thread IMO but a mfg.'s cost thing I suppose. They do have limitations with small logs or certain cuts but mostly work OK. Once a cant presents a lower squared edge they engage below 4/4 height. They do encounter the guide width adjuster-> the alu bar when sawing a narrow cant if not positioned such to avoid it.
Baby that carb on your engine as they are NLA except for Chinese crummy clones. Mine runs on one which is crude replacement at best but it keeps on running, knock on wood...
Quote from: terrifictimbersllc on April 04, 2021, 12:17:50 PM
Quote from: Machinebuilder on March 08, 2021, 11:39:13 AMDoes woodmizer have any good parts manuals? The owners manual doesn't list much.
Yes you can get a complete parts manual showing exploded assembies with all parts numbers and descriptions. Hardcopy came with both of the mills I purchased new and PDFs by email just for the asking. The part numbers and diagrams are just like the ones online in their "Shop Parts" tool.
Any one with a Woodmizer sawmill should call the main office in Indiana and set up an account. Then you can go online an see / order any part you need delivered to your door. Many modification's were made to each mill over the production years and be noted by the serial number of each mill in the parts diagram break downs.
I did register it with woodmizer, the first time since the original owner in 2002.
After a trip to town and TSC I got it back together, I also bought 10' of 40 chain in case I get annoyed enough to want to replace it.
I finished up the log I started yesterday, it wasn't as good a log as I thought. There was some pretty severe cracks in it.
I have ruined my first blade.
I put a pretty wide oak crotch log on and thought the blade was getting a little dull.
As I was making my last cut I hit a stop that wasn't lowered far enough.
I got that out of my way, on to other mistakes as I learn.
I really understand how the 15hp engine is small for the 26" cut, I slowed way down on my feed to keep the engine rpm up.
There's a bunch of steel downstream from your cuts. The logs standards when in down position can be still high enough to encounter the blade if too much debris inside the mill bed. I hit one after installing bearings to enhance log rolling as they stick up slightly more than when they were old style flat steel bars.
Also the blade guide (not blade) hits my type of log holders if they are in a certain position. When edging narrow stuff like 1x4's it takes caution. Also beware when sawing with low with a blade that's on it last legs of sharpness so a dive downward doesn't make it into scrap.
Quote from: Machinebuilder on April 21, 2021, 01:38:46 PM
I have ruined my first blade.
I put a pretty wide oak crotch log on and thought the blade was getting a little dull.
As I was making my last cut I hit a stop that wasn't lowered far enough.
I got that out of my way, on to other mistakes as I learn.
I really understand how the 15hp engine is small for the 26" cut, I slowed way down on my feed to keep the engine rpm up.
And it won't be the last time. Welcome to the club.
Quote from: Machinebuilder on April 21, 2021, 01:38:46 PM
.........I really understand how the 15hp engine is small for the 26" cut, I slowed way down on my feed to keep the engine rpm up.
also learning what needs up-grading
I've been have some fun sawing. I got some really interesting boards that I forgot to upload pictures of.
I friend needed a couple 2x6x10' to remount a flatbed on his Grand dad's '53 Ford.
We ran into a small problem with that, it was a 14' log and the far end was about 1/2" wide.
I rechecked the level on the bed and found a small twist, that seems to have fixed it.
Last nigh I loaded a 10' 24" red oak, I had to trim a bit when the blade guide hit,
I messed up and popped the blade off the wheel trying to back up.
I got it back together and then I ran into the big problem.
I could not roll the log, I have the 60" Woodmizer cant hook and with it on my shoulder the hook just tore the bark off.
I then thought I could use my Bobcat, I ended up shifting the bed, at that point I unloaded the log so I can relevel again.
How should I roll a big heavy log like that?
My choices: alone- I often use a nylon strap wrapped around the log then hooked to my cheapo HF chain hoist that hands on a small beam behind the mill mtd. via a short piece of chain-easy but somewhat slow. HF hoists been hanging there for many years now. beats a trip to a back doctor, etc.. At my age I often use help on logs I once twirled around solo-such is life?
others do similar using a tractor instead of a hoist but log must revolve smoothly as you learned.
When I have a helper it's two cant hooks no strap.
Having converted my older style log standards by addition of the double bearings helps a bunch! My old posts comment on that conversion-takes longer to drill them than the rest of the job.
I also turn a log to my first cut position when it's still poised on the forks above the bed prior to dumping it off. Beware! of dumping the big boys from too high as you could jostle the mill bed too much! They turn easily on the forks with a cant hook. Steel tubing cheaters are allowed in this game of grunt work. :D
Really large logs beyond my FEL lift capacity I sit next to the WM log ramps and use my forks like pin ball flippers to raise onto the bed if no helper around.
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To turn logs I use this log turner that I made, it's powered by a 12 Volt winch mounted at the end of the mill behind the trailer hitch. I put a threaded adjuster at the "elbow" so I can quickly adjust where the claw starts to grab the log.
You mentioned that you didn't care for your clamps. Note also the 2005 version log clamps, the dog moves easily up and down for height - not a bad setup.
If its just a question of the hook pulling the bark off, drive the hook in deeper with a hammer. I have done that at times. You can slide the log away from the supports and then roll it instead of spinning. Repeat until you get it where you want it. That is less effective the bigger the log is. Look up the "magic hook" on here that @Magicman (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=10011) uses. Basically a hook with a chain attached.
Quote from: jpassardi on May 13, 2021, 11:29:45 AM
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To turn logs I use this log turner that I made, it's powered by a 12 Volt winch mounted at the end of the mill behind the trailer hitch. I put a threaded adjuster at the "elbow" so I can quickly adjust where the claw starts to grab the log.
You mentioned that you didn't care for your clamps. Note also the 2005 version log clamps, the dog moves easily up and down for height - not a bad setup.
Those are different than the clamps I have, mine move up/down the same but the handle cams the plate in when you turn it.
I'm still waiting for my upgrade clamps from Woodmizer, I think they are the screw type like on the newer mills.
I've got a couple ideas to try for rolling the big logs, I've only got 5-6 more waiting for me.
Look up the "magic hook" on here that @Magicman (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=10011) uses. Basically a hook with a chain attached.
Mine are hooks with rings.
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That were salvaged from broken logging tongs. The hooks from discarded peaveys and cant hooks work well and and are also available from here: LOGRITE (https://logrite.com/Item/replacement-hooks)
You want the hook, be it a chain or a strap on the bottom of the log. Chain has be a certain way to make it roll. One way won't work, the other way will work. :) So when you pull the chain-strap the log will roll and not lift. You want the hook on the back side of the log to make it roll. Very hard to explain, very easy to figure out how to do it.
I do the same thing when I am skidding logs with my 3 pt winch. I put the hook on the bottom of the log, hook is on the ground, so when I winch it it, the log will roll. What was touching the ground, the bottom, is now on top. This roll also will show any limbs or stubs that I missed because that was on the ground.
Thanks for the ideas, now I have to work at them.
My clamp upgrade is shipped 8) 8) I'm supposed to receive it Monday
This is the log that wouldn't roll
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I tried some quarter sawing, this is about 16" wide 5/4 thick 11' long
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and I started a drying rack, it's under roof I mad it a bit high off the ground because of the slope in the ground, but my dogs can easily hunt critters this way
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Quote from: firefighter ontheside on May 13, 2021, 01:31:14 PM
If its just a question of the hook pulling the bark off, drive the hook in deeper with a hammer. I have done that at times. You can slide the log away from the supports and then roll it instead of spinning. Repeat until you get it where you want it. That is less effective the bigger the log is. Look up the "magic hook" on here that @Magicman (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=10011) uses. Basically a hook with a chain attached.
I'll add to that- I got several from the manufacturer cant hooks with my mill. The one I already had was bought at a farm sale many years ago w/o a handle. The factory ones have blue paint but i don't remember the brand name? They have never been properly set up on the handle to set the hook properly, whereas my self handled one does great. I re-handled the longer of the factory ones last year and moved the hook further up the handle and it now works great.
When the distance between the end and the hooks point is correct it will engage with, i.e., set the hook much more easily. I almost never have to pound the point to set it, but may re-set if loose bark. I keep two low impact mallets at the mill for pounding on stuff.
After knocking the mill around trying to deal with the Large log I decided to redo my setup.
I moved it out of the barn about a foot so I can get the end of the log closer to the head when needed. and I re did the foundation with some #57 gravel under my too thin pavers, and added some support beams.
After a few errors and much work I've got the mill set up again.
My Clamp upgrades got delivered and I installed them. If anyone has the older cam clamps it is definitely worth upgrading to the screw clamp.
I just had to drill 2 3/8" holes in the bunks to install, and then switch which side of the bunk I was on to clear the log stops.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/65100/IMG_51475B15D.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1621684994)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/65100/IMG_51495B15D.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1621684918)
I put a small log on and made a couple quick test cuts and I am back to sawing
I have been thinking about how to handle the large logs.
I took the hook off a crappy cant hook and put it on the end of a chain, so now I have a "Magic Hook"
Now I just have to figure out how I want to pull the chain.
I can use my bobcat but its not easy to climb in and out, or see what's happening.
I would like to use a chain fall, but don't have anything to attach it to.
I'm considering a boom pole on my tractor, or building a jib crane type of structure.
I had the cam type clamps on my saw and upgraded to the new screw type. These work great, but I put one of the old ones back on at the far end of the mill. An extra clamp at that end comes in handy very often.
I spent yesterday at the mill.
first I cutt a small cedar that yielded about 5 - 1" x6"x 6' boards
Then I put another large oak on about 23"x 9'.
The "magic hook" works beautifully, the problem is using the Bobcat with it, they are just so difficult to climb in and out, especially when raised up at all.
I killed 2 blades, one I know I hit the log stop with and I am not sure about the other, it started diving at every knot/crotch.
I had to quit so I could mow my lawn and have dinner, and I have learned sometimes when things are not going smooth its time to walk away........
I would have posted a couple pics but I seem to be having some phone issues and can't get to them.
It's absolutely amazing how far into a big piece of bar stock steel these wood cutting blades will cut!
Fair warning if you have the screw thread log clamps now->the upright can be too high from sawdust inside the bed and get hit as well.
Same thing with the standards if they don't fall all the way to the rested position when sawing real low to the bed.
The three magic ways to ruin yer blade not in wood.
I'm not getting a lot done with the current heat and humidity here in East TN
I did saw another of my Red oak logs today. I kept this stacked as the cam off the cant so they could be bookmatched.
I started to have some problems with the engine, I was almost done when it started to stall.
I'm using 100% gas but I will put some Startron or Seafoam in. I'm also looking at the throttle mechanism.
I think It could be running a bit slow. The woodmizer book says to refer to the engine manual, or adjust the throttle cable. There isn't a cable or a manual.
The boards look pretty good, lets see what they look like after drying for a long time.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/65100/IMG_5178.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1623613763)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/65100/IMG_5177.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1623613742)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/65100/IMG_5176.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1623613739)
That has to be some of the wildest grain I've ever seen in oak!! Beautiful stuff!!
My carb (same as yours) became unusable and was replaced by a crummy made Chinese clone as the Kohler version is NLA and cost too much when sold-like $200+. The Chinese version has a float bowl made from beer can thickness alu, thus the retention screw at the center base is a delicate issue.
A FT small engine person might know a better fix? My sawmill came with everything-three ring binder for the mill, adj. tools, etc., but never seen an engine manual.
It's probably found online but I don't recall searching for it.
Quote from: KenMac on June 13, 2021, 05:14:54 PM
That has to be some of the wildest grain I've ever seen in oak!! Beautiful stuff!!
That log had 1 very large crotch and several smaller ones.
I hope this will be some interesting niche market wood, I cut 5/4 and as wide as I could about 16", and kept them so they could be book matched
Quote from: kantuckid on June 14, 2021, 07:23:57 AM
My carb (same as yours) became unusable and was replaced by a crummy made Chinese clone as the Kohler version is NLA and cost too much when sold-like $200+. The Chinese version has a float bowl made from beer can thickness alu, thus the retention screw at the center base is a delicate issue.
A FT small engine person might know a better fix? My sawmill came with everything-three ring binder for the mill, adj. tools, etc., but never seen an engine manual.
It's probably found online but I don't recall searching for it.
And I'm not very good with Engines, I'm tired of working on them.
I have so much stuff that doesn't get used enough so it needs more work than I'm happy about.
I couldn't even get my small chainsaw started yesterday. it was too hot to use it anyway.
FWIW : Kohler has free engine manuals at the following web site,
https://www.kohler-engine-parts.opeengines.com/index.php?main_page=document_general_info&products_id=34596
You stated in an earlier post it was a 15 hp. if that is correct is should be in this section :
Kohler Command Pro Horizontal Single Service Manual
CH5-CH6 (https://www.kohler-engine-parts.opeengines.com/pub/SM_TP-2337-A_CH5_CH6_REV2_93.pdf)
CH11-CH12.5-CH13-CH14-CH15-CH16-CH430 (https://www.kohler-engine-parts.opeengines.com/pub/SM_TP-2402-A_CH11_CH12.5_CH13_CH14_CH15_CH16_REV8_06.pdf)
If this is not your engine it is some where else in the listings.
Quote from: Remle on June 14, 2021, 01:50:21 PM
FWIW : Kohler has free engine manuals at the following web site,
https://www.kohler-engine-parts.opeengines.com/index.php?main_page=document_general_info&products_id=34596
You stated in an earlier post it was a 15 hp. if that is correct is should be in this section :
Kohler Command Pro Horizontal Single Service Manual
CH5-CH6 (https://www.kohler-engine-parts.opeengines.com/pub/SM_TP-2337-A_CH5_CH6_REV2_93.pdf)
CH11-CH12.5-CH13-CH14-CH15-CH16-CH430 (https://www.kohler-engine-parts.opeengines.com/pub/SM_TP-2402-A_CH11_CH12.5_CH13_CH14_CH15_CH16_REV8_06.pdf)
If this is not your engine it is some where else in the listings.
Thanks It is the CH15S model. I'll have to look through and see if i can figure something out.
I have a friend to call if I need to.
Hi Yall,
I have been doing a small amount of sawing, I haven't cut too many good logs recently.
With all that I have learned, I am getting some pretty good boards.
I was sawing some yesterday evening when I noticed some oil dripping
I finished cutting the cant, some 2"x6"x8' red oak and started investigating.
I am pretty sure it is oil blowing out the crankcase vent.
I feel a steady stream of air coming out of the hose going from the valve cover to near the carbarator.
I am not a very good engine mechanic, but from what I can find out it is either stuck/broken rings or just completely worn out.
It seems to be running ok still, talking with a friend I an going to pull the spark plug and dump some diesel in the cylinder to try to unstick the rings.
If that doesnt work I think its time for the engine upgrade.
I was considering it anyway because the 15hp Kohler doesn't like the big cuts in oak.
I was hoping to go to a 25hp Honda, but they are not available and quite expensive.
My next choice is a 22hp predator, they are available and about $900. That would be a 46% increase in power.
I plan on doing some measuring tonight to see how it will fit.
I repowered my LT15 with the upgrade kit from WM last year. It was not cheap, but it did come with the 19 horse motor, new drive side wheel for a double v belt and the kit to make it easier to raise and lower the heavier engine.
You might want to check the valve adjustment before you buy an engine. These overhead valve engines do require valve adjustment except the really high end ones. The high end engines sometimes had hydraulic lifters. Typically the intake should be around .006 and the exhaust around .008. I use to get them in the shop all the time that would have over .030But they also can get to where they have ZERO clearance it depends entirely on which parts wear first. YMMV
Quote from: biggkidd on January 26, 2022, 04:47:29 PM
You might want to check the valve adjustment before you buy an engine. These overhead valve engines do require valve adjustment except the really high end ones. The high end engines sometimes had hydraulic lifters. Typically the intake should be around .006 and the exhaust around .008. I use to get them in the shop all the time that would have over .030But they also can get to where they have ZERO clearance it depends entirely on which parts wear first. YMMV
Thanks for the suggestion,
Considering the condition of everything else, I'm willing to bet its never been done.
The whole exhaust is so rusty I think things would break before I got it apart to take the valve cover off.
This is a good excuse to add needed power to the mill.
What are you considering the "really high end" engines?
Quote from: firefighter ontheside on January 26, 2022, 04:35:42 PM
I repowered my LT15 with the upgrade kit from WM last year. It was not cheap, but it did come with the 19 horse motor, new drive side wheel for a double v belt and the kit to make it easier to raise and lower the heavier engine.
What Woodmizer has on the website is for a revision E04 and up. Mine is a Rev. D7.0.
I might call them, its also about $2200
I called Woodmizer and they do not have a repower available.
I asked about the double belt and have a p/n for the drive wheel but they could not tell me what the difference is.
It looks like the Predator Engine will bolt in place, and use the same pulley.
Does the Predator have an alternator?
It was explained to me that the increase in HP required the double belt to prevent the belt slipping due to increase HP. I think when I ordered the engine kit they told me that my 2005 model was the first with the newer design. Anything older could not use the upgrade. That makes sense since I see that your mill is from 2002.
Quote from: jpassardi on January 27, 2022, 03:03:00 PM
Does the Predator have an alternator?
I see a voltage regulator in the parts list so I'll say yes
Quote from: firefighter ontheside on January 27, 2022, 03:35:10 PM
It was explained to me that the increase in HP required the double belt to prevent the belt slipping due to increase HP. I think when I ordered the engine kit they told me that my 2005 model was the first with the newer design. Anything older could not use the upgrade. That makes sense since I see that your mill is from 2002.
I need to research the BX belt spec some more. I think I could easily get a 2 grove pulley for the motor and add a second belt. The drive wheel is already a 3 groove
The diesel soak seems to have worked. The air coming out of the crankcase vent became normal after running a couple minutes.
This will buy me some time to investigate an engine upgrade.
I have a concern that the muffler supplied on the predator won't work. It looks like it hangs off the side. When the head is raised all the way it might hit the top cross bar. It also doesn't come with a fuel tank but that's relatively miner.
Quote from: Machinebuilder on January 27, 2022, 06:12:20 AM
Quote from: biggkidd on January 26, 2022, 04:47:29 PM
You might want to check the valve adjustment before you buy an engine. These overhead valve engines do require valve adjustment except the really high end ones. The high end engines sometimes had hydraulic lifters. Typically the intake should be around .006 and the exhaust around .008. I use to get them in the shop all the time that would have over .030But they also can get to where they have ZERO clearance it depends entirely on which parts wear first. YMMV
Thanks for the suggestion,
Considering the condition of everything else, I'm willing to bet its never been done.
The whole exhaust is so rusty I think things would break before I got it apart to take the valve cover off.
This is a good excuse to add needed power to the mill.
What are you considering the "really high end" engines?
LOL I don't really consider any of them high end I just know that it was used as a selling point to sell their more expensive engines. I know Kohler had hyd valves on some of the Command series engines and I'm thinking there was someone else but escapes me at the moment. After working at one small engine shop then running it and then having my own shop I have no love left for Kohler's. A lot of them were decent engines but a lot of them had some STUPID problems from a POOR design. Briggs & Stratton had plenty too the worst being the lack of another head bolt on their OHV engines they were forever blowing head gaskets. They had one spot where there was just to much open space between the head bolts because of the lifter galley. Even accounting for that I'd personally rather have a B&S over a Kohler. HONDA makes the best small engines I know of personally. The Predator engines are cheap clones of Honda's best I've been able to tell even allowing the use of Honda parts many times. They seem to last pretty well for the expense. I have a new Predator 22hp horizontal shaft for my mill build.
Quote from: Machinebuilder on January 27, 2022, 07:04:48 PM
The diesel soak seems to have worked. The air coming out of the crankcase vent became normal after running a couple minutes.
This will buy me some time to investigate an engine upgrade.
I have a concern that the muffler supplied on the predator won't work. It looks like it hangs off the side. When the head is raised all the way it might hit the top cross bar. It also doesn't come with a fuel tank but that's relatively miner.
If you need a tank I'm sure I have 15-20 sitting around I took off junk mowers. A couple off of generators as well if you want something a little larger. Shipping cost may be prohibitive though.