Good day,
I'm new here, and newer to building with wood in its natural state. My dream is to build a log home or cabin. But I've been building log benches and stools lately till I get the land to go big! It's been a lot of fun so far. Been really enjoying all the pictures that he members on here have posted if their creations. I do hear with wood and have most of my life. I just enjoy being outside. I have read lot construction manual and books by Allen b mackie, a few times each. I also order understanding wood, as it was mentioned in one of the many posts I've read while searching these forums. Any others I should search for?
I've been using lumberjack tools tenon cutters, been quite happy with them. Didn't know about many of the other methods till I found this site and had them ordered already.
I've been using standing dead pine and the odd spruce.
Do these trees need to be dried even more after they are cut or should they be fine for rustic pieces? I have using glue and a screw through tenons. I've read some use a dowel, is this better? Are nails better?
I've. Recently acquired a few slabs of spruce, 2" thick 1-2' wide. Cut about a week a got. How long should these sit before I make a table with them?
Should I be using a glue with a longer set up time? I noticed putting together some pieces that were a little more complicated it was setting pretty quickly. Any suggestions? Been using titebond original and gorilla wood glue.
I've attached some pictures of my recent pieces.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/64296/0E94A0C3-5D3F-47B4-9C2B-A041F4BFADBE.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1617820985)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/64296/AA2FDBE3-A41D-4018-B4D9-702D63726779.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1617820985)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/64296/26EF0F0D-6A43-4DA4-A7AC-B5DB34CCBF17.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1617820979)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/64296/D987C7EC-1012-462C-9BF4-11D42E35F8BC.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1617820978)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/64296/9D092997-5E07-4F82-92E0-D8BF1E828491.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1617820973)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/64296/81D8BEA2-F9C9-4C0F-9D0C-FD31D5DABAC9.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1617820968)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/64296/71F25AEF-DBD5-45C1-8E24-3935D1BEC434.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1617820967)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/64296/70A62423-3211-4E7F-8F2D-F836D9600FE5.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1617817356)
Probably the thing you should be most aware of when usin coniferous species, is getting the pitch set, and that takes heat. Remember ever sitting at a park picnic table on a hot summer day, and getting pitch on you or your clothes?
I've never even heard of that. More research needs to be done I see. What happens when this runs? Just gets left sticky on surface? Does sealing them up help this? I didn't think Most log stuff was built with kiln dried logs. In guess that's here the heat comes into play.
Thanks
Your furniture looks great! I've never done any log furniture building, from what I've read on any "green woodworking" is that you want your tenon pieces dry, or at least drier, than the mortise pieces. Then they will shrink and squeeze the tenon tighter as they dry.
Here is a topic that touches on setting pitch
https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?topic=27746.0
Check out woodwright's shop season 26,episode 4 for some awesome rustic furniture.
Quote from: barbender on April 07, 2021, 05:20:57 PM
Your furniture looks great! I've never done any log furniture building, from what I've read on any "green woodworking" is that you want your tenon pieces dry, or at least drier, than the mortise pieces. Then they will shrink and squeeze the tenon tighter as they dry.
Thanks, will certainly keep than in mind, And try some sample pieces out.
Quote from: Jeff on April 07, 2021, 06:25:06 PM
Here is a topic that touches on setting pitch
https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?topic=27746.0
Thanks Jeff.
The old timers built chairs using dry tenons into green posts which locks the chair forever without any glue. One book that details some of this is detailed in a post i made here on March12th- "Build a chair from a tree" by Alexander. Foxfire series shows some old chairmakers.
I have the same tenon maker as you plus some of the other style made from cast aluminum such as Lee valley sells.
I mostly use wedged tenons in log furniture-saw a slit in the tenon and wedge it hidden or from above in a thru hole tenon. My entire home is built from thousands of BF of EWP, not a stick is kiln dried nor are my YP wall logs. I'm not arguing or refuting setting the resin in pine or kiln drying either, just pointing out that it's been done for many centuries and certainly in log furniture. Cedar is much easier to air dry and build with IMO than pine. Out west Aspens used commonly for log furniture.
Beware of the bugs!
I built a log bed several years back from Sassafras with the bark left on. Air dried, lightly sanded the bark and doused with WATCO Danish oil. I spent far more time cruising the woods for curved trunks to create the head and foot, top logs using weird curves and the small verticals in the ends. Looks pretty neat too!
One wood that doesn't split to the heart is catalpa. If you can get some it will make super nice cookie tops w/o the cracks to the heart pine or most any other wood will have. It's also got a nice brownish tan color and carves superbly-I've done many hand, gouge carved bowls from Catalpa.
build a small room/box with clear plastic, and get to what ever temp you can. the pitch usually does not run or get sticky, unless you exceed that temp. use solar energy to heat it up.
Quote from: kantuckid on April 14, 2021, 03:57:07 PM
The old timers built chairs using dry tenons into green posts which locks the chair forever without any glue. One book that details some of this is detailed in a post i made here on March12th- "Build a chair from a tree" by Alexander. Foxfire series shows some old chairmakers.
I have the same tenon maker as you plus some of the other style made from cast aluminum such as Lee valley sells.
I mostly use wedged tenons in log furniture-saw a slit in the tenon and wedge it hidden or from above in a thru hole tenon. My entire home is built from thousands of BF of EWP, not a stick is kiln dried nor are my YP wall logs. I'm not arguing or refuting setting the resin in pine or kiln drying either, just pointing out that it's been done for many centuries and certainly in log furniture. Cedar is much easier to air dry and build with IMO than pine. Out west Aspens used commonly for log furniture.
Beware of the bugs!
I built a log bed several years back from Sassafras with the bark left on. Air dried, lightly sanded the bark and doused with WATCO Danish oil. I spent far more time cruising the woods for curved trunks to create the head and foot, top logs using weird curves and the small verticals in the ends. Looks pretty neat too!
One wood that doesn't split to the heart is catalpa. If you can get some it will make super nice cookie tops w/o the cracks to the heart pine or most any other wood will have. It's also got a nice brownish tan color and carves superbly-I've done many hand, gouge carved bowls from Catalpa.
Thanks, I have read that thread a few times. Appreciate all the tips. I imagine with a locking mortise, the hole is widened out a little for the end to spread out as the tenon is slid in?
Thank you.
Quote from: doc henderson on April 14, 2021, 06:08:32 PM
build a small room/box with clear plastic, and get to what ever temp you can. the pitch usually does not run or get sticky, unless you exceed that temp. use solar energy to heat it up.
I was thinking that but not quite sure if it would do the trick, thanks for the confirmation.