I have a belsaw m14 sawmill. It came with the saw guide on the frame But there is nothing to run against the blade. There is nothing to adjust. I was told to just pound an oak plug in it and let the blade run up against it. Anyone ever fabricated one. If so do you have any pictures to see how to make one . Thanks for any help . Jim
The guide block should not be pounded in tight to the blade . If you pound the block tight to the blade it will cause heat and distort the blade (cut crooked) and may ruin the set. The blocks need to be close but not rubbing. There are other circle sawyers on here who can talk more knowledgeably about how to set the guide blocks and the problems if set to tight.
I read some thing about oil soaked Oak blocks or a wood called iron bark.
I'm unclear on what you have, do you have all the parts there? On my M-14 the guide is 2 aluminum parts. One is mounted to the frame as a pivot point, the other is a yoke the fits on the mount with a Y that goes around the blade. It is bored, I think 3/4" dia for a fixed pin and an adjustable pin. So there are 3 adjustment handles, 2 on the mount and one on the yoke and a fixed bolt on the rail side of the yoke. I've whittled the pins out of anything hard, oak, hickory, beech. Since they really aren't rubbing much they last quite awhile. I've heard the same about oil soaking the dowels and might remember to get round tuit at some point.
Since I've wiped the guides off the mill a time or two in crashes I've been working on being able to make my own. I've made a steel mold and cast a few of the mounting part but haven't made any yokes yet.
This is what my older style Belsaw with the wood bed has. I put hardwood dowels in and the back holes are slotted to adjust the distance to the blade. (Barely daylight while saw is spinning)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/49926/100_3629.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1555500220)
I have the same saw. I read somewhere that boxwood makes good plugs, but I've found if the blade rubs them at all (and it does!), they wear down quickly. I've got the guide on the bench right now awaiting new plugs. I'll try a different type of wood this time. - Jason
Here is a link to the M 14 Belsaw on Vintage Machinery site :
http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/86/1050.pdf
In parts break down, part M 56 is described as Hard Wood Plug quantity two
I had a belsaw, but sold it when i bought my Woodmizer LT 40 HD . I thought of using, polyethylene rods (https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-1-d&sxsrf=ALeKk00tXmlBvg2T4TUK9zq2EDxwqnkmuQ:1621632303255&q=polyethylene+rods&spell=1&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiEx5CL29vwAhUQh-AKHT_4BxUQkeECKAB6BAgBEDE) ,
but never got around to setting it up, they might be another option to consider.
I use manzanita for guides on my 60" circular. It is amazingly hard and lasts a long time. I've tried other woods but nothing compares.
Thanks for all the responses My guide kind of look like Glendaler's guide. I might try and make one like his. But add adjustment screws. It has what looks like 1 1/4 inch holes but no way to make adjustments . I have trees we call ironwood they would probably work. I wont be able to take pictures because it's at my dads farm. My wife just got her knee replaced. So I might get up there next week.
I hope she's doing well, my wife got hers done about 3 weeks ago, she's starting to get hard to keep down :D.
I use white oak. The only time the blade ever touched them was when I hit a screw. Then I had to sharpen and swap a couple bits.
Guide on my 60" circular
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/62460/IMG_1893.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1622327086)<br
The cast aluminum saw guide that came on the late model Bellsaw's is not worth having [but don't run without it or something better]. If you are thinking of making a new guide consider putting the inside peg in a flanged tube drilled in from the back side of the frame. Then you would make some type of bracket to hold the outside peg. These little sawmills need an owner who can do a little welding and light steel fabrication .