I have a jump saw I cut slab wood with and my 18" blades are needing new bits (teeth) Am thinking about redoing them myself. Has anyone done this ? How did you position the teeth to solder ?
A jig if theyre snazzy, just laid flat on a steel table will do if they arent. Silver braze. Carborundum or diamond wheels to sharpen.
I worked in a saw shop and watched it being done. He melted the silver braze into the gullet then placed the tooth holding it in place until the braze cooled enough to make it stay. He then ground the new teeth until they matched the remainder. It took patience, steady hands and a good eye along with a lot of practice. You would have to do a lot of blades to justify the cost of the grinder and wheels.
In my experience - well worth learning the trade! Price for carbide blade work in my area is astronomical if you can find it. I think most people just buy a new one these days.
It depends on the blade. A cheap Vermont American used for framing is not worth retipping or even sharpening but for a cabinet maker using Freud or Dimar it is very worthwhile.
I bought this little beauty about a year and a half ago and it works very well. My big carbide blade is Ø26 3/4" and it just works with it. Already made my money back on it.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/44322/sharp.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1626120856)
How much was it
I paid $273 and got $30 back for a minor issue (rust) with it. Canadian $
so far so good - Ive only sharpened about 10 blades so far but I did 2 big ones and they held the sharpening nice. I also added water to it I think that is critical for stone life.
jmur1
jmur1 how large a blade will it handle ? Mine are 18" I have 7 blades, but all are about sharpened up and chipped etc They are almost $300 a piece.
@armechanic (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=29096)
It will do up to 27 1/2" but if your blade has a compound edge (multi angle) you will take way more time to sharpen them. But it can do them too.
jmur1
I've got some older Freud cabinet blades for my table saw .Smooth as silk .I have no idea what a new one would cost ,these came with the saw which I got a real good deal on 25-30 years ago .I had more value in just the special items than I paid for the saw which basically the saw was free .12" direct drive Craftsman, cast iron table 4 HP .Takes a 40 amp circuit breaker and dims the lights on a start up .Circa 1968 .
I've never done an insert blade but I have re tipped carbide tips on large masonary drill bits ..Silver soldering is not that hard to do .The silver rods are a bit pricey though .
The problem comes down to grinding carbide .A "green" wheel will do it but it takes forever .On a saw blade to do any kind of a good job you'd have to have diamond wheels and jigs .Any more on hand held saws running 71/4" blades they are cheap enough it's not worth the effort .I think the last two I bought were $12 a pop .I remember them costing 30 a pop years back .
My Dad did the blade repair and sharpening at a hardwood sawmill. He bought Foley equipment and went through their training. I wish that I had spent time with him learning the trade. He hammered the blades straight and replaced teeth.