Just bought my first 500i stihl . 10 lbs lighter than my 880 and will still pull a 36 in bar.
I have had mine for 2
Months now probably 60-80 hours on it. I really like it, the only thing I notice is it doesn't like small
Wood and 4 strokes, goes away as soon as you bite it into enough wood. Throttle response is great, it's pretty light for what it is. Does have too much plastic imo though, anyway, that's my conclusion on it so far. I would recommend one.
Yep me too. Happy. Happy happy with mine.
Are you guys using them for felling or bucking?
Felling, bucking and chainsaw milling
Some felling, but mainly bucking log after log for the sawmill, cutting them to length. Just straight chainsaw dropping through logs, dozens an hour sometimes, what my other Stihl, a 462I, the precursor to this, didn't do so well at and I traded off for the new 500i. This one starts fairly quickly with a prime button, and has a fairly easy pull.
I usually use a 660 for this, my general go to saw, but the 500i cuts within a hairs breath as fast, and is significantly lighter. I use the light bar, and RS chain, and am very happy.
I really love the performance of my new 500i (bought in May from my local Stihl dealer) but, man, it is a PITA to start sometimes. I have tried every starting technique known to mankind. Hot starting was always an issue, but now cold starts are also becoming difficult. It will run a second or two, and then "run out of fuel" and die. Sometimes it will require 20 or so false starts (40-50 pulls) before the fuel delivery eventually kicks in and it stays running.
I have taken it back to the dealer for service and their answer was "the computer says everything is ok with the saw". ??? ???
A quick internet search for "Stihl 500i won't start" shows I am not the only one with this exact issue. Maybe I should try premium gas, but my MS362 is a 2-pull starter, every time, hot or cold, using the same jug of gas mix.
Leigh
zippski
@zippski (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=53354) this might not have any bearing on your particular problem BUT on my brand new saw of another brand/model the fuel filter was clogged after 3 tanks. I replaced it & ALL was good at that point. Inexpensive and worth a shot.
That's odd, mine is a very easy starter.
my 660 was like that and my dealer took it back in trade for an 880. evidence to me I was not the only one. he had to go through the distributor. I am sad to hear the 500 I may be the same. Stihl needs to make the great saws they are known for. sad the politics get in the way. they twice evaluated the 660 saying it was fine, but not to me when it would not start hot despite the procedure.
its your fuel and the 500i is to run on high test gas not low or mid grade . Sense your in Ontario use Petro can 94 octane gas.
I usually run 91 octane which is premium here, but only had 89 today and didn't wanna run into town for saw gas, so I mixed it up and ran it in the 500i, didn't notice a difference but will keep running the higher octane
Quote from: Tacotodd on September 17, 2021, 04:11:31 PM
@zippski (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=53354) this might not have any bearing on your particular problem BUT on my brand new saw of another brand/model the fuel filter was clogged after 3 tanks. I replaced it & ALL was good at that point. Inexpensive and worth a shot.
Thanks for this tip - I will check this out since it sure seems like a fuel starvation issue, but I am not sure why it never seems to starve for fuel after it is running
Leigh
zippski
Quote from: ehp on September 17, 2021, 06:52:39 PM
its your fuel and the 500i is to run on high test gas not low or mid grade . Sense your in Ontario use Petro can 94 octane gas.
Yep, an hour east of you, ehp, in central Niagara (specifically, in escarpment shorthills country). I will try a couple of tanks of premium to see if that helps. I hope so, even though my MS461 and MS362 seem to have no issues starting and running on regular.
Leigh
zippski
Quote from: zippski on September 17, 2021, 07:43:36 AM
Sometimes it will require 20 or so false starts (40-50 pulls) before the fuel delivery eventually kicks in and it stays running.
I have taken it back to the dealer for service and their answer was "the computer says everything is ok with the saw". ??? ???
I had a similar thread on my 462CM a few months ago, with a chainsaw that drove me crazy, and one day I was so aggravated I literally almost put it on the ground and drove over it with my tractor. I didn't, but it was close....
I called it "Old Ten Pull" even though it was brand new. I played with the wires, I put on a new fuel filter even though the old one looked fine, new plug, etc, recalibrated it many times, and all of a sudden, it began to start on the first couple pulls, like it was supposed to. I don't know what was clogged, loose, or what was different, but it just "started working." However, while it was still working, I sold it as fast as I could.
I replaced it with a new 500i, and I call it "The Leaf Blower" because it starts about the same as my leaf blower. A half a dozen pushes of the primer button, a couple pulls, and it runs. Just like my leaf blower. :D I'm using regular pump gas and oil in it, as well as all my saws and leaf blowers.
I did try some of the canned gas and oil mix from my local shop, and yes, it makes a significant difference. No doubt.
So my advice would be to get a gallon can of that premixed chainsaw fuel from your local saw or hardware store and drain out the old fuel out and try it. If it doesn't completely change character on that, there is something really wrong with the saw, no matter what the dealer says.
Then when you are at the dealer, get some of the basics and replace them. Fuel filter, plug, maybe the fuel line, and go inside the saw and start pulling and jerking on every wire and connection in there. In my 462, I found a loose wire and an oddly placed linkage. If that doesn't work, sell it and get another.
One thing noticed is I gotta tuck my shirts in or the vacuum the flywheel pulls it will suck my shirt right to the recoil case and stay there lol
I don't know where - but I thought I read that the starting procedure for the 500i mentioned by Stihl was 9 or 10 pushes of the primer button as being the required number for cold starting..
I also watched in a Youtube video as a Stihl factory rep demonstrated how to do a M-Tronic reset from a cold start and he very obviously hit the primer button at least that number of times, cranking it up in a couple of pulls, prior to resetting it!
Actually and since I am not fortunate enough to own a 500i - I decided to go on-line and look up the stated procedure for the 500i as described in a Stihl manual.
It plainly states "push the primer button 8 'or more as needed' times prior to pulling the starter rope"..
I'm wondering if those who have issues or problems easily starting or keeping their saws running after firing initially, could have it due to a lack of sufficient primed volume of fuel for the FI unit to firstly get it going - and then to allow it stay going to the point where it can be throttled up..
Stihl has always from my own experiences, been very exacting when it comes to starting procedures for their saws, and due to this model being a completely different animal fuel delivery-wise from the rest of the saws in their line-up, it just might make some difference..
I've had one since the first of the year ran it daily 6 hours falling and bucking without issues on 87 ethanol I wonder if it's more of the quality of the gas or you climate. Even after having the saw sit for 2.5 months without use on the same gas as before it fired in around 5 pulls.
I hope all you guys that are selling these problem saws, are doing so as parts only or at a discount. The guy buying a used saw probably can't afford to buy new, and now he just wasted his Money on a junk saw that never runs right. It sucks, but gotta take one for the team , don't pass the buck to another.
I don't understand how higher octane would make one easier to start. Octane is really just resistance to spontaneous combustion under pressure. If an engine has higher compression, it needs higher octane to prevent knocking from the fuel firing before the plug fires.
I know a lot of people think that more octane gives the gas more power, but it really doesn't. More octane just adds more resistance to pressure before it can ignite. The most power comes from the proper octane fuel being used for a particular engine.
I see guys with regular motorcycles filling up at the Racing gas pump. I expect they think it gives their bike more power, but I expect it just turns their chrome pipes blue.
Please, explain.
One thing I've noticed, and it has been mentioned before by others, is that the Silver synthetic Stihl oil definitely makes a saw harder to start than the Stihl orange oil, although they sell the synthetic as a better oil. I guess from a wear characteristic, it's better, but it smokes more and make the saw harder to start. So you might try the orange Stihl oil in the long run.
I'd get a can of the super duper premix from the local chainsaw shop, and give that a try. If is doesn't fire up well on that, then there is definitely an issue with the saw. I keep a can in the cabinet now, and is the first thing I use for troubleshooting my wad of 2 stroke engines (trim saws, brush cutters, weedeaters, limbs saws, etc.)
I found in the winter, prime 8-10 pumps. Pull to test and then started on 2nd or 3rd. Even after running for a while.
In the hot summer however after the saw was hot, it usually needs 4-6 pumps. I think the theory is to introduce cooler fuel.
I run the high octane for two reasons- first, around here the 91 octane premium is ethanol free. Second, iirc my Husqvarna manuals called for a premium or minimum 89 octane gasoline. I realize it doesn't make more power, but it does help keep a hot running engine from burning down.
Yup - I too can only get what is 'reported to be' ethanol-free gas in the highest octane version - which around here is 91 at the pump unless I mix in some 100 LL (which I do occasionally) at 50/50 ratio along with the 91.
But I think everyone seems to agree that their saws all sound and seem to run much better when using either Stihl, Husky, or other forms of canned premixed fuel.
So that tells me that despite what some say is unnecessary and costly premixed fuels - they do make a difference and that difference is undoubtedly the octane levels mostly and to a small degree the additives.
Stihl MotoMix I think is rated at 93 octane and the Husky stuff is 95 if I recall correctly!
I do know personally, when I have used either in my 261CM does certainly sound a lot like a racing 2 stroke bike and feels different immediately and I have to assume it also would produce more power if it could be measured from the feel of it..
Preignition is bad for any engine - 2 stroke or otherwise - and the hallmark of lower octane fuels is the resultant build-up of heat created by it!
I believe the premix fuels run better because they are alkylate base fuels rather than petroleum base like gasoline. Gasoline is blended for automotive use, not purpose built like the premix. It has additives we don't need in 2 stroke engines. I just wish the premix fuel was less expensive. I use some Motomix, and would like to try some Aspen fuel. I have stopped using the silver bottle Stihl mixing oil and now use Shaeffer 9000 mixing oil in Southern States 0% ethanol 89 octane fuel. No report yet on how it works, I still have a gallon of the Stihl silver bottle mix to use. Or pour it in the 92 GMC pickup.
Since we switched to nothing but rec fuel, 91 octane and no corn, that stuff is for drinkin, all of our stihl products start on the 2nd or 3rd pull. Doesn't matter how old or new, chainsaw blower combi all run better, almost a dollar a gallon more here but worth it for us.
I may pick up another 500i tomorrow if the dealer has one , it will be a spare just incase I need it
I have to admit, since I got my 500i, my other saws are feeling neglected. I still run them, but pretty much just to keep them up to snuff.
Sell them, just have one spare saw. If i could get hands on a 500i i would sell my 066 and one of my 361s. i have 4 saws, 3 would be perfect. lesser is less maintenance, less stuff that goes bad without use
I bought another 500i with 28 inch light weight bar set up on it today , there hard to find around here but one of my buddies found this one for me . Going to put a 500i on the landing as well as falling timber
Quote from: teakwood on October 08, 2021, 08:23:23 AM
Sell them, just have one spare saw. If i could get hands on a 500i i would sell my 066 and one of my 361s. i have 4 saws, 3 would be perfect. lesser is less maintenance, less stuff that goes bad without use
My saw line up is ms170-ms250-026-ms362-500i. And that’s perfect for myself working on the ground, I could use a 200t for climbing. I could never go back to less saws,
I pick the saw specific to each job, whichever is easier on my body and gets job done fastest lol
you can loose the 250, 026 and have a new 261, that will do for both of them. light and powerfull. the 170 i don't know
i have 260, 361, 361, 066. and a small makita one hand battery chainsaw for the sawmill.
i need two mid size saws for when we fall teak in the plantations, one for me and one for the worker. but i would like to upgrade my saw to a 500i, the trees are getting bigger and the 361 has it's limitations. the 066 i use maybe twice a year, so the 500 could do that, with a 25" bar for splitting the occasional big log and with a 20" light for felling
500i is good but you got to use the power , I see so many guys just let the saw cut and the saw is running quite rich , if running a 20 inch bar on them gear it up with a 8 pin and push
One thing thou guys is saw prices are sure climbing and because no saws there are no deals , you pay what they want or the next 10 guys will , for what I paid for this last 500i is the most I have ever paid for a chainsaw ever , with our lovely 13% HST tax added on saw was $1997.
Quote from: teakwood on October 09, 2021, 09:06:49 AM
you can loose the 250, 026 and have a new 261, that will do for both of them. light and powerfull. the 170 i don't know
i have 260, 361, 361, 066. and a small makita one hand battery chainsaw for the sawmill.
i need two mid size saws for when we fall teak in the plantations, one for me and one for the worker. but i would like to upgrade my saw to a 500i, the trees are getting bigger and the 361 has it's limitations. the 066 i use maybe twice a year, so the 500 could do that, with a 25" bar for splitting the occasional big log and with a 20" light for felling
In my hands I don’t notice too much difference between the 500i and 362 , obviously the 500i rips through woods faster but weight/feel wise not much . I still
End up using the 362 now since I’m trying to leave my 500i for mostly CS milling and the odd monster pine
Quote from: ehp on October 09, 2021, 09:12:20 AM
500i is good but you got to use the power , I see so many guys just let the saw cut and the saw is running quite rich , if running a 20 inch bar on them gear it up with a 8 pin and push
Mine don't like
Small wood, 4 strokes until it bites into something 6-8" +
I donot cut anything that small unless its limbs on the tree I fell, I run 24 inch most times and a hungry chain to stop the 4 stroking
Me neither but like you said you fall a tree and a couple limbs here and there, smaller co leaders etc. 20inch bar here and never cut unless it's burying my feet in large chips
Quote from: HemlockKing on October 09, 2021, 10:13:15 AMIn my hands I don't notice too much difference between the 500i and 362 , obviously the 500i rips through woods faster but weight/feel wise not much .
That's exactly what i need, same weight but more grunt!
Quote from: ehp on October 09, 2021, 09:12:20 AM500i is good but you got to use the power , I see so many guys just let the saw cut and the saw is running quite rich , if running a 20 inch bar on them gear it up with a 8 pin and push
Good point, would have to try that out. Teak is very dense, very dense and the saw bogs down alot. and now i get into 14-18" trees and they are getting bigger every year, the 361 with an 18" bar is just not doing it anymore but as we have a nasty hot climate and lots of slopes and with the chainsawpants and the gear on every pound counts.
if they would just sell the 500i here! :'( will have to make a trip to the north to get one or i still waiting for the first of you guys vacationing here and bring me one. but it seems that loggers don't do much vacations :D
@teakwood (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=27555)
The 500's really need an aggressive chain to keep from 4 stroking even with a long bar. I'd be willing to bet the 462 would fit your needs better it loves short bars the filter is a little better but nothing to brag about in my opinion, but it's more of a screamer.
Whatever you decide upon (if it's a 500I or a 462CM) you HAVE TO KEEP A SHARP CHAIN ON! To many reports of them not, umm, cooperating with even a SLIGHTLY dull chain. The auto correct style saws are very, temperamental about a slightly dull chain.
Just food for thought
What saw isn't temperamental about a dull chain? It surprises me how dull the chain on my firewood processor can be, and continue to cut very well. It has a 38hp Kohler and a 404 harvester saw bar. Idk if it's just that there is that much more power on tap, but even with my Husky 390xp, if you touch a little dirt you will wear yourself out trying to force it through one last cut. Maybe I'm just not as strong as that hydraulic feed on the processor 😁
been running a 462 on the landing for just over a year and its never sharp cause always bucking up in sand covered trees with zero problems . To me I would think the 462 would fit Teakwood better than the 500i , 462 is a pretty nice saw to run but I'm guessing you do not need the Arctic model lol
muffler temp is pretty hot on these new saws so make sure you do not touch it or your going to know it
:D
Back to square one with both of you comments about the 462 being a better saw for me ???. Ether way there is no 462 or 500i sold in this country, so i would have to try out both in another place. Maybe next year i will do a trip back to Switzerland, there i know some people with saws
Quote from: Tacotodd on October 10, 2021, 03:24:36 PM
Whatever you decide upon (if it's a 500I or a 462CM) you HAVE TO KEEP A SHARP CHAIN ON! To many reports of them not, umm, cooperating with even a SLIGHTLY dull chain. The auto correct style saws are very, temperamental about a slightly dull chain.
Just food for thought
There's also a huge difference between sharp and aggressive. You'd have to have a chain more then a little dull to cause an issue with the computer controlled saws all the years I've ran them I haven't had an issue.
Quote from: teakwood on October 11, 2021, 08:00:44 AM
Back to square one with both of you comments about the 462 being a better saw for me ???. Ether way there is no 462 or 500i sold in this country, so i would have to try out both in another place. Maybe next year i will do a trip back to Switzerland, there i know some people with saws
Simple fix of DHL. One thing I can say I don't care for the 462 myself I've ran a 32 on it and it will pull it if my chains aren't super aggressive but a 28 is what I'd call max for it. The 500 is full comp square all day 32's and 36's it probably could pull a 42 but it'd never oil it the oiler is lacking in a big way.
In my wood the 462 is good with the 20 inch and ok running a 24inch setup . The 500i runs the 24 inch setup better and ok with 28 inch setup but your going to have to baby it fairly good running a 32 or 36 inch bar setup . We're not cutting soft wood . But for me to run a 36 inch bar setup the tree has to be huge for out here . 6 ft on stump or bigger in diameter . Biggest tree I have cut here was with my ported 372 xt and it was 84 inch on stump hard maple in a deep gut and that was with a 36 inch bar setup and I was surprised that it ran that bar pretty good but that motor had alot of lathe and porting done to it .
Quote from: realzed on September 22, 2021, 03:23:23 PMYup - I too can only get what is 'reported to be' ethanol-free gas in the highest octane version - which around here is 91 at the pump unless I mix in some 100 LL (which I do occasionally) at 50/50 ratio along with the 91.
I'm curious what you hope to gain by mixing in 100LL. Once you have enough octane to prevent preignition, more octane does not translate into more power. The only time the higher octane is needed is if you are running a saw that has been modified for higher compression. 100LL does tend to have higher shelf life than non-ethanol unleaded (and both 100LL and E0 gas have higher shelf life than E10 gas). Other than that, the only thing 100LL is getting you is the opportunity to breathe in some tetraethyl lead (a potent neurotoxin) and a chance to build up some sludge in your saw (though sludge and lead deposits are usually not a big issue if the saw is tuned correctly and you don't let it idle extensively).
Very interesting posts about the bar length, the 20" is probably all i ever need, maybe a 22", but i won´t run around with a 24", the temps and vegetation will give you a hard time.
There's also a huge difference between sharp and aggressive
Very true, i can not use a aggressive chain, it always hooks into the wood fiber and stalls the saw. Maybe with the stronger saw this problem will be less. Also the chain newer stays sharp for a long time, i fell 4-5 trees and you already feel the lack of sharpening, fell 4 more and it´s time to refuel and sharp again. Teak has this natural oil in it which is very tool damaging but also makes the wood insects and weather resistant.
That's just like here cause of all the sand in the bark from the wind blowing in off the fields . Lots of days I cut 10 to 20 trees at best and have to file the chain on the falling saw. The one 500 I have is from out west and I'm sure has the harder rubber mounts in it . This new 500 is for sure softer in the mounts but nicer to run . The other 500 seems to make my hands go to sleep first couple hitches in the morning . The 462 is aot more saw than a 361 so it should do the job
@ehp (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=1195)
They have the same rubber mounts unless someone put a west coast saws kit on it even then it's still a soft saw.
I'm not dogging the 462, but I had post recently where I was having trouble with mine. I finally got it worked out, but traded it for a 500i. Both are significantly lighter than my 660, both "feel" about the same weight as my traded in 360 something, but the 500i is a much "better" feeling saw than my 462, and cuts nearly as fast as my 660. It has become my favorite saw, and I use it almost every day on pump gas and Stihl Silver oil. I use the 25 inch light bar.
The good news is, the 500i starts very easy, but it does have a comical leaf blower style primer bulb. That being said, its a lot easier to prime a chainsaw saw with a primer bulb than by pulling the rope. :D :D
I really like my 500i, it's never more than a 3 pull start after priming, even cold. When it's warm, it's a one pull.
my 500i came with the west coast stuff on it and so did Pete's as they came from the island , I never ordered this saw Pete did so I'm not sure what he all got , It works good
YH, I really don't know why people are so down on primer bulbs. Like you say, I'd rather prime it with a bulb than a pull rope🤷♂️
I've never cared for the primer bulbs because they dry rot so easy in my neck of the woods. Up until recently my saws rode in the back of my truck most of the time. This let the sun work on all of the plastic. I would have needed several primer bulbs in inventory for how often one would go down. Now that my saws stay in my shop or under shelter it may not be as much of a problem.
Quote from: customsawyer on October 13, 2021, 06:46:27 AM
I've never cared for the primer bulbs because they dry rot so easy in my neck of the woods. Up until recently my saws rode in the back of my truck most of the time. This let the sun work on all of the plastic. I would have needed several primer bulbs in inventory for how often one would go down. Now that my saws stay in my shop or under shelter it may not be as much of a problem.
As far as I'm concerned, the sun is just as bad as the rain! Even worse when it has rained then strong sun comes out, magnifying the sun
Funny story.
I have had one time the saw wouldn't start, which happened a couple weeks ago. One of the guys was pulling and pulling on the starter rope. It would burp and die, burp and die. So I holler out to the guy in the log yard "prime it!" and he hollers back "I did, its flooded!!" So he keeps pulling to clear the flood, aka standard procedure for a carbureted saw. So I walk over there because this is very unusual for this saw. After a detailed explanation from him about the issues with the new saw, how it wasn't as good as "they" say, I pull out my Sherlock Holmes and open up the gas cap. Yep....bone dry.... :D :D :D :D :D :D
At that point I have a situation. The saw has been run dry which is real bad for some saws, like the 462, because it shifts the fuel map and could make it real hard to start and maybe require recalibration. So I refill the saw, pushed the primer bulb about a dozen times, held my breath, pulled the rope and it roared to life. Then I laughed, and made a comment about when the saw runs out of gas, fill it up.....
I hate when the workers don't get how to start the saw ::). pull the cord with the lever full way down, in choke, they don't hear the pop and start pulling a thousand times more ::) ::) ::) ::). of course the saw is flooded now and let her sit or get the plug out
Quote from: barbender on October 12, 2021, 11:44:16 PM
YH, I really don't know why people are so down on primer bulbs. Like you say, I'd rather prime it with a bulb than a pull rope🤷♂️
Something as simple as a primer bulb can cost you good money when you're doing production cutting. Say you have that bulb go out now you're hiking out with a broken saw your gear as well as the lost production of that day it could cost you pretty good.
Quote from: teakwood on October 13, 2021, 08:13:00 AM
I hate when the workers don't get how to start the saw ::). pull the cord with the lever full way down, in choke, they don't hear the pop and start pulling a thousand times more ::) ::) ::) ::). of course the saw is flooded now and let her sit or get the plug out
Maybe they need to have their hearing checked ;D
as well the primer bulb should feel different when it is pulling fuel, and of course you can look untill they get dark brown. some of my smaller saws and equipment have them. out of fuel should have been apprent while pushing the primer bulb.
Quote from: doc henderson on October 13, 2021, 09:48:24 AM
as well the primer bulb should feel different when it is pulling fuel, and of course you can look untill they get dark brown. some of my smaller saws and equipment have them. out of fuel should have been apprent while pushing the primer bulb.
The 500 has a different feel to it because it's not getting hard it's just priming the injector the same task can done by using the pull rope to prime it.
I myself donot really like the primer ball as I know it's going to screw up and crack and suck air before to long and as far as starting if I take my old 462 and you take your new 500i and both saws cold and startvat the same time to get them started . I will have my 462 running by the time your done pushing the primer . First start in the morning 3 or 4 pulls total for the 462 and its holds its primer alot better where the 500i does not
I'm not in that big a hurry to get my saw started. :D :D
My logs are on the log yard and aren't going anywhere, and if I see one run away by the time I get my saw primed, that would be cool, too. :D :D
I like the new 500i better than the first 500i, this new one seems to pull pretty good , muffler was blue/purple color in 3 tanks
Quote from: ehp on October 13, 2021, 11:03:24 PM
I like the new 500i better than the first 500i, this new one seems to pull pretty good , muffler was blue/purple color in 3 tanks
I have noticed mine was blue/purple and I was worried I was overheating it, that saw really does put off heat?
Another thing I’ll add about the 500i is the chain/clutch cover is plastic, I don’t not like that.
does anybody made a muffler mod yet on a 500i? is it possible? if they put out alot of heat a muffler mod would help extremely with the cooling
@teakwood (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=27555)
Yeah west coast saws does as well Egons they both have covers for them but as a warning it makes they a tad bit loud.
So you can buy just the muffler cover already made with twin port and just screw them on? that´s great, the tad more loud doesn´t bother me, i have no neighbors and always use earplugs
Yes . I build my own and no where even close to as loud as the others and I get as much performance if not more out of mine . Just pounding a hole in the muffler does not mean more power but sure does mean more noise and some motors if the porting is not changed really donot gain much on just a muffler mod . New saws are not like the old design where most times you gain 20% .
Interesting, i did it myself on the 361 , dual port muffler, and it really helped. i would say 15% gain in power and throttle response.
Do you have a foto of your cover?
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/47446/3535833B-4A60-46C2-A9E3-31D30308E487.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1634215515)
The west coast cover it's a hole in the front but it's at an angle with a little restriction plus it's got a screen in it. In the summer during fire season we have to switch back to stock equipment so you can tell a difference between switching just the cover.
Quote from: ehp on October 14, 2021, 08:21:54 AMI build my own and no where even close to as loud as the others and I get as much performance if not more out of mine
I like that, i don't muffler mod to have a screamer. I really want the power gain and know this has to come with more noise, but the west coast mufflers seems pretty aggressive to me
@teakwood (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=27555)
One of the biggest bonuses to the west coast or that style of cover is it gets the cover off the bark which can start a fire. Even cutting in the winter here I've had moss or the like start smoldering from the factory cover touching for too long.
I donot exit out the front like the west coast cause you know thats going to raise the noise level a lot , I exit out the side like the factory so yes it raises the noise but hardly at all