The Forestry Forum

Any of you using a metal detector? What do you use and how deep will it detect something the size of an 8 penny nail? Please give brands and model #'s
Maple Flats      ??? 8) ???

I use a Garret.  It's quite old but the equivelant is the Master Hunter Series.  It cost me about
$700 in the 1980's.

It will detcct an 6 penny nail, depending on the "view" at 3" to 8". 

I have really enjoyed owning a metal detector.  Using it on the mill has been a windfall.   I love to look through old house sites and fair grounds.  You wouldn't believe the "treasure" that I've found over the years, shovels, axe heads, hammers, pliers, bullets, silverware, pots and pans, old square cut-nails, horse, mule and oxen hardware, pieces of old railroad equipment, coins, rings and getting on the trash heaps has allowed me to find old bottles.

I found a friends lost wedding band one time.  Boy, did that make him happy.   I use it to find tools I drop in the sawdust and parts that I drop in the grass.  When my boys were young we spent many pleasant  hours together searching the school ground for coins.

My first detector was a Heath Kit I built myself in 1969. Every school yard, church yard, house yard was practically virgin territory.  The coins we found :) :) I use a Tesoro now to mostly find lost nuts, wrenches, chains I've lost in the woods.  Use it on any suspect log before sawing it. I have become rather good at smelling cedar logs with metal in them and then checking to verify my hunch.  Mine will find a bb at 3 inches. A small nail at 5. Any time we hit metal with the saw, it comes off the mill and I check the whole log for more metal. 4 out of 5 times, find one nail find another.

Go to a dealer and tell them what you want a detector for. There is a good chance that he will loan or rent you one to try out.  If they are not too far from you, maybe you could get them to bring some over and they could show you the possibilities.  Especially if you have an old house yard and let them do a little searching.

Rens, Model ?  It will go in the ground to at least 4' and through a log at least 4'.  I paid $1,300 for it about 5 years ago.

Quote4 out of 5 times, find one nail find another.

I found that folks won't put one nail in a tree if 4 or 5 will work. :D

White's Classic Series, I have both a 1 and 2.  They do not do a great job discriminating ferrous metals...wait....that's what I want them for  :D

Captain

Fisher model 1270 in the all metal mode. 8" coil will find nails at 12" depth. It has saved it's cost in blades alone in my first week of ownership.You'll be amazed at the hardware that can hide in a log :o ;D

I've had loggers bring logs in with 3 strands of barbed wire sticking out 6 inces and swear they didn't see it. I was very sceptical, until one day I'm whacking cedar like crazy, drug the tree out with several others, got the logs to the mill and my yard guy asked me why I brought a log in with wire sticking out.  Blew my mind that I could have not seen the 3 strands of barbed wire.  My eyes didn't work on that one.

come on guys, there must be more of you using metal detectors. Please clue me in, what works good, what doesn't work good enough? Being new in the sawmill game I need your help before I run my Peterson blade into a nail or horseshoe or RR spike. You know, something that will do worse than just chip a few teeth. I want to order a metal detector very soon but don't want to get one that won't find the metal nor one that breaks the bank un-necessarily.  HELP PLEASE!!!  ??? ??? ???

You should be able to purchase a White's, Garrett, Fisher or other main brand name of detector that will work, shopping in the range of 200 ot 500 dollars.   Some have 800 "free" phone numbers and that would be a good start.  Your local Metal detector shop is well worth a visit.  It is an industry much like the sawmill industry where the manufacturers and dealer will try to help.

Most of the money spent on high end detectors is for the descrimination or identification features.   You will find that most of the lower end models will work fine to look for nails in logs.  I'm not talking about the 30 dollar toy that you find in some of the Electronic shops or department stores.  I'm talking about a real detector that would be found on the shelf of a Metal dectector shop.    Start at $200.

Thanks Tom, that seems to be the best answer I've gotten yet. I think I now have a better idea of what to get.
Maple flats

I'm with Frank Pender. I got a Rens I think it cost about 1800$ and paid for itself in the first month I had it. I no longer buy those big logs with steel in them that every tree service brings in I send them back. Word has finally got around if they think it has metal in it they don't even put it on the truck.The only bad thing about the Rens is it doesn't have a setting for concrete :'(.

I purchased a White's spectrum XLT a few years ago on ebay for around $600.  I think they're close to a grand new.  They go about 13 inches deep, and if the log is big enough I can still use it when it's sitting on the mill.  Had a large oak on the mill and the detector said there was a nail a few inches down.  I took off a board or two and tried it again...it said 1.5".  I took off one more 4/4 board (I was really gritting my teeth when I went over the spot it said the nail was), and then took a chisel to where it was supposed to be.  I popped off a little skim of wood to find the nail head  ;D

Even though I have it, I don't always use it  ::)

Ours is a Quick Draw II made by Bounty Hunter.  Seems like it was around the $300 range.  In the all metal mode it works pretty good and seperates lead from steel fairly well.  I'm with Tom on buying a brand name.  I also would stay in the $200 to $300 range.   The more expensive units just have more descrimination features and functions, and can be confusing to a beginner.  Also, beware, detecting can be as addictive as sawing. ;D

May I suggest making sure you have a spare blade for the saw ;D  I would venture to say even those folks with metal detectors have hit metal a time or two. 

I currently dont have one but would like to have one in the future.  If I was still cutting logs in Suburbia I would definatly have one.  I think I hit more nails in on one cutting job in Suburbia than in all the logs I have cut here at the farm. 

Like Tom said, why use 1 nail when 4 or 5 will work.  :D

Visit www.kellycodetectors.com  Have them send you a catalog. Huge number of detectors with prices and accessories.

I have a Rens 3000 that I just bought used for $625. I thought it was a decent price. It will detect metal in wood at 36". I had to call the folks at Rens actually Lacey-Hamar and found them to be terrific. Very nice and helpful.

I'd also say that whenever I have hit metal I haven't destroyed any blades. I have cut thru 3/8" diameter hooks and stuff. The blade needs to be removed but I can clean off the metal that is fused to the face of the teeth & then resharpen it and use it again. With that said though I am sure if you hit a railroad spike it would destroy a blade.

Ceramic insulators tend to grind teeth off your blades too  >:(

Just ordered from a unit Kellyco. I sent for an MP3 Pro that they sell for $299.99 normally but they just received a double shipment in error (sales pitch?) and were selling 50 units only for $159.99 by arrangement with mfgr. Said this was normal dealer cost. Really good markup % normally. Hopefully this unit will find metal before the blade does. I hope to be smart enough to use it and not just own it.

After you use it a while you will get to know who brings logs that don't need to be checked and who brings logs where you have to check every one.  If it's a butt log and I think it's a yard tree I run the detector over it.  More than half the time they have steel in them. Like was said before nobody uses only one nail. If they got a handful of nails they use em all

Of the detectors everyone is listing, which ones are small hand helds?  Or are they the standard scavenger type looking units?

Dave

I bought one of those airport types you see from the woodworking stores, worked ok if the metal was nearly showing!!!! Or course it doesn't work at all now since it was left out in a rain shower  :-[

Dave

  Take it apart and dry it in the sun. Carefully look for little white spots of corrosion and wipe them off with a toothbrush, carefully. Might try new batteries. Fresh water should not hurt it.

Maple,

I hope you have better luck with Kellyco than I have.

I ordered a Fisher 1225 last Thursday morning, I evenpaid $30 extra for 2 day express shipping.

Here it is seven days later and no detector.  It seems the Fisher was out of stock, it took Kellyco until Monday to find this out, they subsutited a White classic IV for the Fisher, shipped this on Monday morning.  Now here it is Wednesday night and still no detector.  Other wise would not be that bad, but I paid for the express shipping and I got a bunch of logs to scan before milling. >:( >:(

I am pithed with Kellyco at this moment.  I'll keep yall posted as to how and if they make this right.





Mark

I got an email less than an hour after placing the order saying it had shipped and giving the UPS tracking #. Sorry to hear about your delay with them.

I got a new Pioneer 202 Bounty Hunter that I used once last year but I didnt have a good spot to set the log and fart around looking for tramp metal because where I roll my logs into the mill shed it is old trailer house I beams so I have to make it a religion to check the log before loading it on . I must read and practice using this metal detector because its just a matter of time I will collide with something. This thread has got me seriously going to make use of this metal detector, the first time I tried it it sounded like a casino with all the beeps and buzzes. Hope everyone has a good safe sawing summer !  :P

Maple,

I got me a set of those same e-mails.  I log on to UPS and status is "In Transit". >:(



Mark

UNCLEBUCK,
You sure you didn't get a geiger counter by mistake? :D

I bought my first White's (a Classic 2) from Kellyco.  Good Deal.

When it began acting up after a rain incident, and a supposed coil problem from mishandling, I went to a local dealer for service.

He took a rental unit and we changed the coil with no difference, and the battery pack with no difference.  We then decided the problem was beyond either of us and needed to be sent to a service facility.  I bought a new Classic 1 from him as I NEEDED A DETECTOR NOW!!  He gave me a good deal..not as good a Kellyco, but hey, this guy runs this shop out of his basement part time.

I returned my Classic 2 to White's with a note inside describing what we did and the rain incident, requesting an estimate for repair and sent it off to the factory.  I got a call 5 days later saying the cost was going to be $15 for shipping, the unit was fixed no charge, under warranty, even though technically the warranty had expired 2 months before.  Obviously, I was very pleased.

Now I have 2 metal detectors.  Great items to have around with a 5YO son who likes to take keys, tools, router bits, shaper cutters....

They have both paid for themselves twenty fold with the blade service savings and the retrieval of lost items....

Captain

The only good thing about hitting a ceramic insulator is that it takes all the decision effort out of what to do with the blade.

Quote from: Cedarman on April 21, 2005, 09:10:13 AM
The only good thing about hitting a ceramic insulator is that it takes all the decision effort out of what to do with the blade.

Ditto that for chainsaw chain also :o

GA_BOY, I went to UPS and tracked the shipment. It was sent about 5 hours after I got the email from Kellyco, I guess that is close enough. UPS says I will get it on the 4/26, Sure hope they are right, usually are.

Maple,

I got my unit Thursday afternoon. 

I called Kellyco Thursday morning and told them that UPS had "rescheduled" my delivery from 4/20 to 4/21.  Kellyco said this was not a good sign. :(  This usually means the package is lost in the system some where.

Well, I got another e-mail from Kellyco last night; they refunded my shipping charge as the service that I paid for was not provided.   This is a step in the right direction.

I am still a little upset with these guys.  It took them 2 days to find out that the unit I ordered was not instock.  The rub is, I paid for 2 day shipping and the day the unit was to arrive is the day they called to tell me they did not have a unit to ship.  From the day I placed my order to the day I received my unit was 7 days of clear sky and great weather.

Now its raining and I gotta wait until the weather clears to scanning my logs. >:(   I could have had this done by Wednesday if I had gotten what I paid for.

I hope your unit works well.  From what I have read about these Classics they appear to be good units.  Time will tell.




Mark

Let's say you have a nice log, but your metal detector tells you that it has some metal in it.  What do you do with the log?

It depends on several factors. If it is near the end of a long log, I may just lop that part off with the chainsaw.  If I can't do that, and the log is worth the extra effort, I dig it out with an air chisel.  Having air power is a luxury that comes with sawing at home. ;D  I probably save some logs that would be lost if I had to do that by hand.  I have trashed a couple of logs after digging to the point that it just ain't worth sawing. :-\

A lot depends on the value of the log.  I've taken metal from cherry logs until they looked like Swiss Cheese because the log owner had sentimental ties to the tree.

It is a good reason to learn how to make Plunge cuts with a chain saw.  You surround the site with plunges and pop it out with a hammer.

The Hammer that I've found to be the most useful is a heavy ripping claw hammer.  Sharpen the claw from the underside so that it can be used more like an axe.  Don't put a bevel on the top of the claw because you still need to be able to get it under a nail for extraction.

Other tools I use are Water pump pliers (use the back to roll the nail out of the wood), Vice-grips, chisels and axes.   I make my own chisels from old files or pieces of lawnmower blade, etc.  Don't strike these with a hammer.  You will produce metal shards that are dangerous to you and your by-standers.   I make a mallet from an old limb of hardwood like dogwood or beech or some of the oaks or hickory.

You can make a mallet during a those boring times when everybody else is taking a lunch break.  :D   Take a limb and score it all the way around in several places about an inch apart.  A chain saw will do this if you are careful.  Split the scorings off and whittle the "handle" smooth.  Then cut the head off at the desired length.  You will end up with something that looks like this.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10026/mallet.jpg)

Use the long piece of the limb when scoring to keep your hands away from the saw. Then cut it to length later.   Heck, it's just common sense.  :D

Hi all: My "other" hoby is Metal detecting-- Beaches, celler holes.parks etc.
I own a Whites DFX top of the line unit. a Bounty Hunter-Quick draw 11 and a Garrett 135--None will detect a nail or a coin at over 12" in the ground ( or in a log)--I use the Quick draw on the suspecious logs and its brob. good for 5-6",  any more and I would be amazed//--a detector that can find a nail at 36" will find the saw rails at 48" and be usless// JP

Dang Tom,
I read your directions three times, I still can't get it right.  This is as close as I can get using my chainsaw and pocket knife.  I guess I'd better keep trying until I get it right.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/11541/degcup02.JPG)

(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/11541/degcup01.JPG)

Nice Gilman  ;)  JP are you saying that you do your metal detection when the log is on the carriage before the dogs go down ?  When and where do you find a good place to check for metal ?  Thanks , You  ever run a bounty hunter 212 ?

JP,

When I scan logs they are wooden runners.

I found that using the Fisher 1225 on a 18" log sitting on a Woodmizer was useless.  No matter what I did I detected the mill.

It did not take long to learn to scan logs before they go on the mill. ::)



Mark

I see what's wrong, Gilman.  That stick must've had a hole in it.    :D

i CAN SCAN A 20" LOG ON THE WILL--LOOKING AT THE TOP 6ISH "
WITH THE BOUNTY HUNTER qUICK DRAW II- I have not tried any other unit but been on the beech with lots --except for the descrimination and bells and whistles they all are about the same within each price range//--I have a "test plot" in the yard with coins ,nails,etc set at from 2 to 12" in the ground-THe DFX (900.00$) is the best but only by a few inches. none can find the Quarter at 12" in spite of all the add BS.-this summer I will purchase the big 18" super coil and see what that does--JP

My new metal detector arrived today. Now I've got to test it out to see how well it will find metal in logs. I know of 2 trees at my boundry lines that have wire in them to try, but not really sure how deep it is, I assume it would be sort of straight from the ends that show and will test with that idea to see if I can detect at a guessed depth of up to 18 inches in one case. I will not however cut that tree, not worth anything. A cherry about 36-40" at base but rotten in many spots and a real danger to cut besides the wire, a widdow maker for sure, not for me to try! After the test I will try it on some of my logs and see if any have metal inside. 8) 8) Already went outside and got some readings in the back yard, but all I found was junk, NO VALUABLES YET!! 8) 8) Ha! and I was sure there was burried treasure out there!

Every now and then, a customer will bring out his metal detector and attempt to find every nail in their log pile. Up untill now, I've not seen a no nonsence detector that could tell me, with pinpoint acurancy, where the bad day object is! Well..........it's somewhere right in there. I heard it a while ago but now it won't do it. Oh, there it goes.  Yea, it's got to be somewhere within that 10" disk area!----------One day I got a job sawing some logs for the telephone man. He just happened to have in his truck the wand used to locate telephone wires under the ground. The end of the probe is about the size of a walking stick. We found every nail right on the money! Somebody help me. What is the official name for it, what do they cost and where could they be found for the general public. Got to get one of those.

Here is an URL to one like you describe.

Using a coil one a hobby detector is an art too.  If you place a coin on the ground and hold the detector as high as you can get a signal, then you have placed the coin at the apex of the "cone" that the coil sees.  That cone appears above and below the coil.   By moving the coil in a sweeping motion, one can get good at determining the exact spot that the metal occurs.  If the metal isn't too deep, using the edge of the coil can help too.

Good tip Tom , I am going to take a stack of boards and place some nails and tinfoil in between and keep adding boards until I dont get a signal . That will be my test so I can figure out this bounty hunter . I will lay boards against the side of the stack too . Yep I gonna build a log !

You probably won't find much difference in the wood or detecting through the air.  Air is easier to learn.

The density of some woods and the amount of water in the wood might effect it some.  I have found a nail that was sticking out of the wood because the detector was pointing at it.  It didn't go off.  I'm told that the reason is that a detector works by seeing the difference in density between the iron and the surrounding materials.  Wet wood can imitate the density of iron.   Now I don't really know that, but, it does answer the problems I've run into when I couldn't "see" the nail with the detector.   You also have to keep the coil moving too. It's the only way to find the location of the iron.   If you move real slowly, a lot of detectors won't sound off.

Thanks again , I will keep it moving and just take some time and practice alot until I learn all the beeps. I tried it through 4 inches of cement and found where the rebar was but I was looking for the floor tubing that had aluminum in it. I will definatetly work on my sweep.

My new detector flunked the test. I could not find known barbed wire in a log. Only could read it where it stuck out and then only 5" thru air. I sent a request to Kellyco to return it and get a different one. The specs on this one said 8" but only got 5". I'll keep you guys posted about this saga. smiley_annoyed01 smiley_crying smiley_crying smiley_argue01

Wire is a difficult thing for most detectors.  Wire the size of barbed wire isn't too bad but smaller stuff gives strange readings.  You have to get used to the sounds that a detector makes when it finds certain articles.  Pop-tops sound different than quarters.  22 casings sound different than nails.  A nail on end sounds different than a nail from the side.   Wire the size of Bee Frame wire or fishing leader will drive you nuts.  Something that has turned completely to rust can drive you nuts as can mineralized ground. :)

  Unfortunately, Mapleflats problem is all too common. I have posted here several times about finding a Detector STORE, and trying out the machines, before the purchase.  Usually, operator error is the reason detectors don't perform to the specs.

  A detector is actually a "send and receive" radio. It sends a signal and whatever bounces back, the detector will "see".

  A lower priced detector will do a fair job, IF you learn how to use it.

  We KNOW the Bounty Hunter Quickdraw is a better than average machine, for the price. We used to sell them.

  Minelab makes a different configuration coil and will DEFINITELY go 18" +.  Detectors "see" mass. The more solid the target, the better. Jewelry Chains are found by the clasp or Pendant, because the chain is NOT solid mass.

  Coil size is paramount to depth. Air tests are nearly worthless. The more moisture and minerals around the target, forming a "Halo" from breakdown of the target metal, the better the signal.

  An experienced operator can find things with a less expensive machine, the same as a race car driver can win races with a less than perfect car.

  We sold a couple of Garrett machines to members of this forum, and received no feedback. I told them to IM me if there was ANY problem learning the machine. No response, so, I don't offer anymore.

  Kellyco is our closest big competitor, and many people drive 2 hours or more, to buy from us, than have to deal with Kellyco. Not my words, just passing along info. I am not knocking Kellyco.

  General rule of thumb:  Sensitivity wide open  Discrimination low as possible.  All metal mode if the machine has it.   HEADPHONES are a BIG factor.  Some models offer Pinpoint Mode.  Good feature.  :)

I have used a dozen different detectors over the last 26 years. The most sensitive was a Heathkit. It was too sensitive. It could find a piece of bb sized tinfoil at 3 inches deep in the ground. The least was a White's 66TR small head. 

The operator is 90 per cent of success and the machine is 10 per cent.  When I first started "coin shooting", the term for hunting coins in house yards, church yards etc., the pros would go behind me and show me the goodies I was leaving.  Practice is extremely important. For deep metal you must be able to hear the very faint change in tone.

Ideally you must have an area that is free of metal in the ground and 10 feet from the log.  Set the log on some bolsters and systematically scan the log with a slow sweeping motion moving the detector path only a few inches with each sweep.  The top and sides of the log can be scanned. Then roll the log over and do it again.  Shouldn't take more than a minute or so per log.  If you find metal, mark the spot and continue the whole log. The reason is that you may find from none to 20 or more chunks of metal. Too many and the log is history.

If I hit metal in a log on the mill, the log and slab are removed until such time as I can check the log. Ruined one blade, don't want to ruin two.

Also do the checking when all is quiet. If that is not possible, then earphones are a must.

When you first get a detector, try it out on a log that you know has metal.  Roll the log around see what difference that makes.

If you have a firewood chunk size log with metal, then you can use that to check and make sure you have the detector tuned properly.

If anyone wants to stop by, we'll go find some nails. I've got a stack of metalized logs waiting for the detector.

  I have explained how to make a test garden. Laying a nail flat on the ground, and 3 feet away, stick one in the ground. Won't take long to get the message. Nails CAN be tricky.

  Course Frank uses them high dollar machines.  ;D ;D    Minelabs are about the best Hobby Detector for depth. Quit selling them years ago, when they had quality control probs.  Could be better by now.

  We have 5 Minelabs. Highest cost, $2800.00 Dealer cost. That puppy, with the 24" dia. coil, will track them Chinese Dudes.  ::) ::) ;D :D :D :D

The tree I tested is still growing, sort of. Not very healthy but I can see the wire sticking out on opposite sides. I tried to detect with ear phones on. The detector is digital with a descriminator which was set to detect all medals. There was no background noise and I was using headphones. There is a display that shows activity before the signal is strong enough to make a sound but on my test there was no such activity over the wood very near where it entered the tree. There was such thru the air as I passed the coil perpendicular to the wire at about 5" and a sound when doing it at about 4". The wire was a double strand with good mass and 4 point barbs about every 6" giving added mass. Do you think I was doing the test wrong? I may need training!! ??? ???

Before you make an assumptions.......    The wire may not go through the tree  or the detector may not go that deep ...or the detector may be having trouble with the density thing ... or you might not have it set to its ultimate sensitivity ....or....... ;D :D

Sometimes the wire is wrapped around the tree or bent around the other side of the tree and nailed to the middle  or cut and nailed to each side ... or....... :-\

Welcome to the world of metal detecting.  :D :D

  Who makes the MP3 ??? 

  Tom could be correct. The wire could have broken waayyyy back yonder, OR, be nailed as 2 pieces, one on each side of the tree ???

  Speed of the swing has a lot to do with the detection of the signal. Too slow, too fast. Not close enough to the surface. We scrub the coil on the log, ground, whatever, unless THAT sets off a signal.

Sensitivity high, discrimination low , scrub and sweep ! I gettin it figured out now ! Thanks F.D., Tom,cedarman,mapleflats !  scrub and sweep ! scrub and sweep !  smiley_wavy

  UB, GENTLY,  GENTLY.  ;) ;D ;D :D  If you have a coil cover on the bottom, it would be better, but, BH always charged extra for them. ::) ::) ;D

10-4 I can do that !  :D

update!! I talked with Kellyco on a 800 # after getting an email to do so with the persons name to ask for. She told me I had the wrong unit for what I wanted, gave return auth. # and I ordered what she reccommended. The dif. in price was only about $70 above what I got the first time but I also lose 20% return fee which is stated in their paperwork and also shows on their web site. Even at that I want the right tool for the job. What I now ordered is a Garrett "Ace 250", which is supposed to be the best for this use within my price range. The price was 199 which includes headphones plus I ordered a guard to protect the coil and with and the total with freight came to $222. The MP3 pro at Kelly's normal price from them was $299 but I ordered it on an overstock deal for 159 + 12.95 s & h., claiming they had gotten a double shipment and the mfgr had given them a super special instead of taking the shipment back (so their web said) The Garrett did not have an overstock special price. I will keep you posted on the Ace 250. It will take a couple of days extra because they are out of it and have a delivery due either Mon or Tues and will ship out the same day it arrives I was told. Kelly says the Ace 250 will detect a nail at 8" to 10" depending on log moisture. I know there are deeper units out there but this is what fits my pocketbook now. I may get a unit for whole log after I do this a while. So far I have not done any custom cutting nor even tried to sell any lumber. That will change in a couple of months as I have some jobs lined up for this summer when I am not driving school bus. Hope to get even more, I have only told a few I was going to do some custom sawing so far.

  Yup, typical Kellyco.  :D :D :D :D  Stu buys by the trailer load. ::) ::)

  I sold the Treasure Ace 250 to the members.  Pretty good unit.

  They also manufacture their own. MP3, ??????  :D :D :D

  Headphones MAY be the $5.00 walkman type.  ::) ::) :D :D :D :D

  8" deep IF you listen to what the machine is telling you, and it will do a 20" log, then, by rolling the log.  8)

I will use it and get plenty of practice. I will also put a nail between 2 boards and keep stacking boards to determin max depth. I know I need the practice now.

No need for boards and nails. Put the nail on the ground, AFTER, scanning the ground.  ;) :D   Then, as you sweep over the nail, raise the coil an inch at a time, or so. Play around, then turn the coil on edge and see what you get.  ;) ;)

2 things. The paper work on the MP3 gave no other mfgr. nor did the box. I think their name is MP, but don't know what it stood for. I was told the headphones were in complete cover ear muffs to block outside noise but I'm sure they are very bottom of the line within this type. If I need better I can get them.

While you are practicing, make it fun.  get a probe and a little spade and go to an old house site or fair ground or  around your yard and look for coins and "stuff".   Try the area where you get out of your car or where a child would play.  Turning upside down on the limb of a tree will expell many childrens toys from the pocket to the ground.  ;D

Fla, are you saying that the wood will not change the reception? And if I need better headphones do you sell them?

  Yup and Yup.  ;D ;D  The wet growing wood will cause a "Halo" of deteriorated metal around the original piece, everything but gold, that is.  Have you ever seen a Blue stain on the end of a log ???  That is caused by the acid in the tree dissolving a small bit of the iron or steel. The Halo will give a larger target area, but, will be slightly difficult to pinpoint, UNTIL you learn the sounds of the machine. It will be a softer sound, harsher nearest the target. Sounds will have a very subtle difference.

  Dryer wood with nails (driven) or not will not have any bearing on the depth of the machine. Use the moist ground and stick the nail in, then lay it on top of the ground. Notice the different sound.

  If yer hearing is bad, like mine, more dollars = better "luck" finding the target.

  They don't just go  "BOING".  ;) ;D ;D

  Most sawmills here that I visited, have many cants laying around. I could probably fill a pickup for $5.00. These cants have wire going through. Cut off above and below the wire and I get LOTS of Expensive Bowl Blanks.  ;D ;D

  Shhhhhhhhhh, Don't tell the crtreedude.  ;) :) :)

received the new detector (Garrett Ace 250)yesterday. Tried the same test as last time with a previous detector. The Ace worked perfectly. Found barbed wire in a tree beleaved to have wire thru the center. 22" cherry tree with a big rotted cavety from about 2' up to about 12' off the ground( years ago I thought it had a lightning strike and just above where the rot ends now a large limb was shattered and dropped on the ground, lots of small pieces in diameter but about 2' to 4' in length)  The wire appears to pass thru it dead center with the rot passing up and down halfway between entry and exit wire. The detector agrees. Tested both sides and it agrees both sides and does average approx. center. The only thing is that it seems to lie about distance but is consistant. Shows the depth as less than it is. I base this on this tree and locating a cast iron culvert I installed last year. The culvert is straight and can see both ends and can see the amount of fill over it. The detector shows as 6" when the fill is between 10 and 12". At the other end it showed 8+ (8+ is the max readout scale) where it is between 12 and 16" down. every time I tested it I got the same results. I put an 8 penny nail on a board and stacked up inch boards testing each and got similar results but quit at 10". (I will test further this weekend to see how deep it will detect an 8 penny nail.) I can live with that. If I scan a log and detect metal at 8+" should be safe to take up to an 8" cut. I would in the beginning however take less, maybe 4" max and then test again until I get totally familiar with it. I will also take the suggestion from F_DH and build a test plot but my initial tests are very satisfactory. All I need now is to remember to test every log that has nails or metal in it, sounds easy. Except for my oldtimers disease, might be getting like Ronald Regan was in his final years. Hope it's just age instead, but I can go down cellar to get something I really need but when I get there (11 steps later) I can't remember what I went after.   8) 8) 8)  I done good this time!!  8) 8) 8)

 

Quote[All I need now is to remember to test every log that has nails or metal in it, sounds easy. /quote]

  Ya MIGHT wanna test ALL the logs. ::) ::)  Them that has metal are pretty easy to identify.  ;D ;D :D :D

Thats where memory enters the picture. I know you are correct.

Hey maple, any particular reason you went with the ace 250 over others in the same price range?  I'm about to buy so my ears are open.

My only reason is that I asked Kellyco which would be best to find all metals in logs within the price range up to $300, they answered the Ace250 at a price of $199. I also ordered a plastic shield to protect the coil and add freight of 12.95. I am told in much higher price ranges there are units that will do whole log from one side. Those didn't fit my budget. 8) 8)

I just bought a Garrett Ace 250 as well. I found a small distributer here in southern BC so I decided to see what he recommended. His first quesition was what I wanted it for, not how much I was prepared to spend -- that was a good sign right there. When I told him I was trying to find nails in logs, he immediately said, "Well you won't need a fancy expensive one for that." That was a real good sign.

He started by suggesting the Ace 150, but he then he wanted to know what I did if when I found a nail in a log. When I told him I'd dig out the nail with a chainsaw and other implements of destruction, he said I might want to fork out the extra dollars for the Ace 250. He figured the pinpointing feature would help to minimize the damage to the log.

It was nice to deal with someone who was more interested in satisfying the customer's need rather than trying to make a quick buck.

As soon as it quits raining I'll be going out to try out Harold's suggestions. Meanwhile I've been amusing (annoying  ???) Barb by trying to play tunes by sweeping the coil over the floor of the house. The nails, wiring, and ductwork under the floor all generate different tones. :D

  Bruce, ya done good. The report you just posted should be required reading for ANYONE that wants a detector.

  See how much better it is when ya try the store first ???  ;) 8) 8)

Two things that help me is first when you swing your detector, don't swing it like a pendulum, keep it parallel to the log or ground and definately keep it at the same speed.  Second when you get a hit turn and make a few passes at a 90deg angle.  X marks the spot better. ;D

Quote from: Fla._Deadheader on May 15, 2005, 07:07:23 AM
Bruce, ya done good. The report you just posted should be required reading for ANYONE that wants a detector.

Thanks, Harold.

I left off the most important part, though. Before contacting a dealer, I searched this forum and then looked at a few manufacturer's web sites. That didn't tell me which was the best detector for my needs, but it gave me enough information that I could tell if I was being conned.

Just bought a Garrett GTA 350 off ebay.  Anybody know anything about this model?  I couldn't find it listed on their web site, must be a model no longer in production. They had a GTA 400 listed so I figured it was the upgrade.  Last Sat. I cut through some metal in an Elm that looked like drift pins used to remove drill and centers from morse tapers.  They are tapered from about 1 1/2" at top to just about a point 6" away.  They must have been driven in at about 120 deg. apart.  I found them all with the blade and figured it's about time to splurge on a detector.  Got it for 150 + 30 shipping.  Now all it's got to do is work and I learn to use it. :D  That could be a long lerning curve for me anymore. ;D

That's a pretty DanG good Detector, Glenn.  It is discontinued, but, better than the TA 250.  Foller this thread to the top, and set yer controls like I posted. Then, Practice, practice, practice. Ya goin to Ho Hi Ho ???  We's gonna have a BIG ole time  8) 8)

I've always been tempted to buy a metal detector to use around the older houses we roof.  But then I get to thinking about the consequences and troubles that could come up if I ever DID actually find something and I figure the hassles just ain't worth it.    So, no metal detector, no gold, and no troubles. It's still kind of a daydream though! :)

Charles,
If you even have an inkling that you might enjoy it, you should get one.  You don't have to use it on the job.   There are plenty of places to "treasure" hunt.   I like old nails as much as old coins.  'Course I"ve never found one worht a lot of money.   

It's the old axes and hammers that turn me on.   Finding an old blacksmith's shop and oxen and mule harnesing was pretty neat.   I found the old railroad to a defunct town.   I found the old schoolhouse and the piping that carried water to many of the houses from the community flowing well.

I found a friends wedding band that had been lost for 5 years.  It was in the Azaileas in his back yard.  I found a pearl necklace that belonged to the wife of another friend.   It was in the front yard in plain sight.  They had walked all over it.

I frequently look for survey markers.  That's fun. 

I am still finding tools that my sons "planted" in my front yard.   I found some coins that I dropped when I got out of the car too.

I found the key to The Doctor's Lodge on the Satilla.  That was exciting.  Charlie was there with me when I found it.

You just have to get you one. It's the most fun you will have alone or with your kids (grandkids).   History is everywhere just an inch or two below the surface. :D

QuoteOne day I got a job sawing some logs for the telephone man. He just happened to have in his truck the wand used to locate telephone wires under the ground. The end of the probe is about the size of a walking stick.

I'm not quite certain how that would work because most of them work from transmit and receive signals through a length of metal, that is you place the transmitter over something metal and follow it with the receiver.
Did he place the transmitter on the log ?

Kevin, Southwestern Bell, here, uses something that resembles a wand the airport sercurity would use.  They just walk along waving it at the ground.  It does'nt have a display, just audio.  The cable company here, Charter Communication, uses something similar to what you discribe though.

Thanks for the reply Harold.  Nice to know I may fair Ok, buying a pig in a poke an all.  I'll go back and reread your instructions and give it  a try when it gets here. Will let ya know how it goes.

Need help.  My wifes aunt bought her husband a Treasure Hunter 3030 off of Ebay and can you believe there are no instructions.  I can show him the basics but I'm not sure about some of the discriminate modes.  If anyone can help me find some instructions for this I would appreciate it.  I'm just tired of hunting the internet with no luck. Thanks

  Not looking good. Website has expired and the suggested retail is $695.00, buy it for $189.00 ??????

  Never heard of this machine, but, we ben away from Detectors for a while.

  Here's the info, for what it's worth.



  Treasure Hunter 3030 Top Of The Line Model **Free Shipping**
ALL NEW expert level detector

MSRP $695.95 - Our Price $186.95 Blowout $509 Savings !

Manufactures Website

www.treasurehunteronline.com

This is what you've been waiting for. Treasure Hunters newest, and most powerful treasure hunting metal detector, just released on the market in MAY 2004. The 3030 Professional model is equipped with a powerful 18 bit Z-100 Computer Microprocessor® and a large digital panel which combines with Treasure Hunters Patented Technology to offer even more features, performance and value than any other detector that Treasure Hunter produces. This detector is the next generation from the XJ9. There has been some improvements from the XJ9, including the level and stability of discrimination, the added function of the target depth indicator. This gives a very accurate reading of the depth of the desired target on the LCD screen (up to 45cm for a small coin). Also, the 3030 has greatly increased the function of the disc/notch feature. Suggested Retail is $695.95. With an excellent recovery rate, easy operation, and lightweight, the Treasure Hunter 3030 is truly a Treasure Hunter's dream.

Three operation modes: all metal (to detect all kinds of metal), disc (to discriminate metal type), notch (to eliminate some objects)

• Most powerful detector by TR
• Selectable for target detection/rejection
• Lightweight for ease of use
• Z-100 18-bit computer
• Programmable sensitivity adjustment
• Auto ground balancing
• 1/8 inch headphone jack
• Touch-pad control panel
• Target image indication with large LCD
• LCD can display the depth of the target, the sensitivity, disc/notch, metal type
• 3 distinctive audible tones for different metals
• Auto low battery indication
• Telescopic handle new comfort design
• Waterproof 8" coil
• Professional treasure hunting detector
• Uses 2-9V batteries
• 5-Year Limited Warranty

Purchase  @ $186.95                 

Thanks Fla_deadhead.  Wifes uncle stopped me today and asked if I would give him a crash course tommorrow.  Thought I would try to get an idea of how his was set up after he told me what he had been trying with it.  It doesn't seem to be picking up some metals, but like I said he's not sure what bottons he's pushing. ::)  I found the site you mentioned along with this one that says it's made by Shanghai Research Institute of Microwave Technology in mainland China.  ::)
http://www.globalsources.com/si/6008802865132/srimt.co

One more reason I like buying locally or from a reputable company i.e. one that's been around a while.

RH,

What they use out here to detect underground pipes and phone lines is not a metal detector. They hook a signal generator to the lines and pipes and have a receiver they use to pick up the generator signal. They have a general idea what is located in a given area that needs locating.

I run 2 differant detectors....depends on where Im milling...I HIGHLY rec. the Garret GTI2500....many variables and displays depths and size....I also run the RENS and LOVE it as well....but again it depends on where you are milling...the RENS goes right through the log and picks up water line, electrical etc so I only use it when Im milling in an area least likely to have these things...but the Garrett eliminates that in the " city" by being able to isolate and discriminate

   I have two detectors,one is a Norwood LM 2000. It is 100% efective for finding any kind of metal ,or other foriegn object in logs. The other one is........I'm not sure of the brand,bought brand new from a FF member,and never taken out of the box. So far it hasn't been very efective at locating metal,of course my tests may not be very acurate,orfair to this particular unit.