I bought this saw after my old Stihl finally could not be repaired after a lot of years. I went to my local store and purchased this MS250 as an equivalent saw, I thought. It was very difficult to start the first time, but it did. Possibly it ran a few more times. I have some trees and the saw is used only a couple of times a year. I thought a Stihl was a good product as I have other Stihl tools I use.
About two months ago the saw would not start. I consider it a new saw hardly used. So after reading the advice here I bought a tune up kit, a spark plug, gas filter and air filter. Saw started and ran accomplishing the job just fine.
Today, I again got out the saw, and attempted to start it again to cut a couple of old dead limbs off a plum tree. I expected another hellish job getting the thing started and again I'm angry and frustrated that I would have to get a tune up kit every time I want to start my chainsaw, or take it back to Jensen and Pilligard to get it adjusted some way. It's too expensive to keep doing that.
Did I buy the wrong brand of saw and is there a better choice? I see that other men have listed their favorite saws. This MS250 doesn't seem to be anyone's favorite and there are way too many sites and instruction topics to suggest this saw doesn't please a lot of people. Too many people complain that it won't run.
This saw acts like it is fuel starved, again, and I don't have another filter on hand. I also broke the crappy clip on the air filter so will need to buy a new one of those.
What equivalent saw should I replace this one with?
Welcome to the Forestry Forum.
Had MS250 for several years and never had it let me down.
Cold starting was easy if only pulling twice on choke, then choke off and no more than two more pulls.
After running, always started with choke off.
Sold it when I bought the new MS261 cm and so far it has not let me down. Along with the MS362 cm, I don't have any "want" for another saw. But at 82, don't feel I have use for any more either.
Once it fires AT ALL with a full choke, release choke to part way. If you don't, the engine will likely flood requiring countless pulls to get going. I've found this to be effective with the several Stihls I've owned.
Quote from: PoginyHill on October 28, 2021, 03:16:47 PM
Once it fires AT ALL with a full choke, release choke to part way. If you don't, the engine will likely flood requiring countless pulls to get going. I've found this to be effective with the several Stihls I've owned.
This technique also works with my Husky saws, except once I get even a POP with the choke on, it needs to go all the way off. The saw always starts right up on the next pull.
Tim
You don't say in your post what type of fuel you are running but, if you using ethanol gas in your mix, that may be part of it. Also, storing a saw with fuel in it isn't recommended by most on here.
If none of this applies to you, excuse the comments, I'm just trying to find possible answers for you.
The starting methods described above are good advice. They work on all my Stihls.
The MS250 has been a great saw for us, especially when you consider it's sold as a homeowner saw. Much better saw than anyone who doesn't own one would think.
Following the cold and warm start procedures as noted above is very important. This is also detailed in the manual.
Also important to run these at wide open throttle. Saws are supposed to be run WOT, and it's more important to do that with the current generation than ever. No adjustments on the carbs now. The saw will run rich at lower rpms and foul the plug quickly. If it's sounding starved or starting hard, pull the plug and see if there's black buildup.
All that aside, the 261cm would fit your hand and be a great saw. More power, lighter weight, better balance. Problem is, it's more expensive being a pro saw and you've already got the 250. I do know people running one of those newer ms250's with no problem. You might want to switch to pre-mix fuel since your use is occasional. There are a lot of problems caused by pump gas because it really goes bad very fast and can foul carbs when left in a saw for even a month.
I have to agree with some of the other guys. If you follow the instructions for starting verbatim, it will likely run every time.
I agree choke it until it "burps" then choke off and it will fire. Probably.
When done sawing for any time at all, I remove all the fuel from the tank. Or use stabil. And still remove the fuel. What's a half pint of fuel cost compared to a bad back pulling a gummed up saw?
Or better yet, get a can of pre mix chainsaw fuel where you got the saw and once that gets to the carb, it will fire off like a big dog. They put dynamite in that canned gas and I've not run it in any two stroke where it didn't like it. Very very good stuff. It's like putting jalapeños in a tuna salad sandwich. It'll wake you up in a hurry.
The MS250 should work well in your application, I agree your technique may be part of the problem. Rather than fighting and getting mad can you take it to the dealer and let him go through it with you?
Another thing is, if you buy non-ethanol gas (which is the only gas I'll put in my small motors) put the filler hose in your vehicle after selecting for non-ethanol and put 2 gallons in there to purge the pump and pipes. Likely the pump and lines are full of ethanol gas.
I have used the canned gas. The saws run just beautiful. Never better. It's a little pricey though. I use it in my little 170 shop saw. The rest of my equipment gets used at least every week and as long as I run premium they all run good.
The MS 250 isn't regarded as a lemon or anything, and "should" be reliable. That doesn't mean you can't get the Friday Afternoon model, and have an ignition module go intermittently bad or similar. There is also misadventures with old ethanol gas leaving varnish or corrosion in the carb and stuffing that up.
But a chain saw motor needs 3 things to make it work. Spark, compression and the right air/fuel mix. Can sometimes be tricky to work out which one is missing, especially when it's intermittent, but it has to be one of those things that's missing.
And yes Stihl saws do seem prone to flooding. I sometimes mess mine up when I'm not sure if it's hot or cold (it's been off for ~15 mins). If it thinks it's still warm it's easy to choke it too much and flood it. If you do that, just walk away for 5 mins, then try again with a no choke "warm start". If it blows a cloud of smoke when it finally starts, then you know it was flooded.
When cold starting my ms 251 I have the choke on full . As soon as it gurgles at all ( usually 2-3 pulls ) I have to move the choke lever down. Then it starts first pull every time. If I pull once or twice more after the gurgle it will flood .
My little husky 445 is the basically the same and both start first pull when warm.
If it isn't the starting procedure I agree with has already been said and it is possible you got one with something off right from the start.
Hope you can figure it out
I really like Stihl saw, but I did buy one recently that I hated. It was a 462 and I called it "Old Ten Pull." I sold it, bought another, and the new one is my favorite saw. Sometimes, machinery just has issues, talk to the dealer, and they will make it right. Maybe.
I like the idea of talking to a dealer if you have a good one. They can review the start procedure to see if you're doing anything wrong. Sometimes it helps having another set of eyes looking.
I've never really had saw problems aside from my two most recent poulanpros. The first I bought NIB from a pawn shop, and had many problems with it running. Lots of carb adjustments and tweaking. Near as I can tell, slamming it on the tailgate of my truck fixed it. I put it away awhile, and without touching anything else, it's run fine since I put it back into service. YMMV on that technique :^P The second I pulled out of the trash. I'm getting closer on the tuning, but it came stock with an inappropriate b&c combo. I think I'll have it running as well as it can, but it'll never be a good saw.
I very often see customers with MS250's on sawing jobs, one yesterday. To me they are go-getters and I have never seen any bad issue with any of them. They crank easily and seem well powered.
I have an 028, 310, 170, and 362 and none of them have ever had a problem starting or running.
Fresh, clean, & non-ethenol gas mix is the only thing that mine gets fed.
This is my thoughts on what would tell if it's a fuel problem, buy canned premixed fuel from your Stihl dealer, follow your saws manual for starting and see if things improve.
Neither Premixed fuel nor a 'tune up kit' will help if the saw's carburetor is gummed up with stale fuel.
Quote from: Magicman on October 29, 2021, 07:25:12 PM
Neither Premixed fuel nor a 'tune up kit' will help if the saw's carburetor is gummed up with stale fuel.
I believe axeman2021 is trying to suggest that getting some premixed fuel through the carb will probably help loosen up and/or get rid whatever could or might be problematic in the fuel system.
I might even venture that a shot or two of Seafoam in with the premix might produce even more additional benefits.
Others on here have mentioned that they thought the premix stuff really cleaned out deposits and varnish in their saws - so what does the OP have to loose by getting some in there?
250 Stihls are pretty widely accepted as good running and cutting saws for their size and intended usage category..
My own 261 does certainly behave, start, and sound different when I put a tankful in (and I do actually store it for a few months over the Winter when I don't intend to run it much or at all - with premix in it).
So I would bet also, that after he runs some through the carb for a bit - he may find the saw 'perks up' a lot not only by starting quicker and easier IF the proper starting procedures are adhered to - but in actual operation as well..
Yes, running a tank of Seafoam, etc. laced fuel certainly would be the first step and it may very well clear out the carburetor's possible blockage. Also using Stabil, etc. laced fuel in the future may prevent future woes.
My point was that I seriously doubted that only premix and a tune up kit were the answer to the problem.
I would be hesitant to label the chainsaw as defective without taking it back to the selling dealer.
Really like
My ms250, and for a homeowner saw, I'm impressed, so much that I'm looking to get another one to shelf until my current one needs a tear down.
After reading many of the posts from forum members who have had to deal with saw carb. getting gummed up, and their thoughts on how to get them working good again, i picked up a few cans of RedArmor 50.1 Premix to run my two Sthils before parking them for a while this winter.
I have had such good look running the RedArmor oil with real gas in my saws and other devices, i really did not feel i had a problem but just wanted to try their premix fuel.
I get my best results when I run saws dry before storage for long term.
All gas out of the carb, the lines, and the tank.
Fresh fuel in the new season. I run ethanol gas with Stihl mix.