I wish "they" made a 2" wide double sided corner chisel to go down brace pockets at the angle?
Anyone have one?
Quote from: ScottCC on November 16, 2021, 06:51:59 PMI wish "they" made a 2" wide double sided corner chisel
Do you know why "they" don't?
At least i've only seen 1",always....Could it be that it'd work very poorly other than being guided by circumference of a bored hole...
May just be tough to control with so much edge engaged...
I could conceivably forge you one,but the soonest i could do that would be this coming January.
Here is one I did a few weeks ago. To move big timber's around shop by myself I rotated head on engine hoist. Installed three 6" steel wheels. Front fixed back swivels. Added counter balance and bam! So far easy to pick 400# 17' long timber and drive around small shop and set down on saw horses to work on.
An oldy but goody is my double chop saw set-up. I took three dewalt chop saw stands and hooked them all together. Only feet on on very ends. Dummied in supports in middle track joints and screwed whole thing to floor. Great production for cutting all sorts of repetitive stuff that requires accuracy. About 17' long and very stable in shop.
I know this is an old post but it's the same topic so I figured I'd see who I can grab I'm hoping Jim rogers finds this, I thought maybe he had some particular experience. Anyways, I just recently bought a bar 1 1/2" framing chisel and when I put it in my tenon template it fit just about perfectly maybe a hair under. When I checked the 2" version at the store it was like 1/32 or more off? The antique 2" I have is way under by like 1/16" or a bit more. I figure it's common to have to match your tenons and mortises based on your tools but I was wondering how common these actual dimensions are. My template for two inch tenons is exactly 2" where as the chisels seem to be undersized slightly, I guess I'm wondering how often people underestimate the size of the tool when making a mortise and then the tenon wont fit. Do you guys usually size your tenon slightly under 2" or make your mortise 2" even if your framing chisel is a little under? Just wondering any common thoughts on the subject? Thanks!
Also do you find you choose to measure your mortise and tenon to the exact same dimensions or do you oversize or under size one or the other?
I only buy chisels that are exactly 1.5 or 2. I've even had too wide chisels machined down. I cut mortises and tenons as close to the correct size as possible.
I have two 2" slicks and they are exactly 2". My 2" mortising bit in my hand crank boring machine is also exactly 2". When I cut my tenons, I use a pair of dividers that I set to the size of the slicks. So, it wouldn't really matter if they were off size. My layouts are done with a framing square using the 2" tongue.
If you bought a 2" chisel and it is actually 1 15/16" then it is not a 2" chisel. The seller didn't measure it correctly or list/sold it correctly.
As Dave Shepard has mentioned we make mortises 2" and check them with the blade of the framing square.
We set our calipers at 2" based on the framing square that we use to check the mortises:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10095/DSCF3876.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1248360684)
In the above picture, I am showing how to set the caliper. But in that photo, I am actually setting it to 1 1/2". But the principal is the same.
I have two calipers in my toolbox. One is set to 2" and one is set to 1 1/2" so that I don't have to re-adjust my caliper when checking different tenon thicknesses.
Then check your tenon size with the caliper:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10095/DSCF3877.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1248360684)
Some people like a chisel that is slightly under the expected size so that it doesn't bind in the mortise. Some want it to be exactly right.
It is not the end of the world, if the chisel is not exactly to the dimension it should be.
But we try as best we can to make both the mortise and tenon the right size.
When we test fit the two together, put the tenon into the mortise, we adjust as needed to make it fit, trying our best to maintain that the two surfaces of the timbers stay flush on the proper side of the timber.
Good luck with your projects.
Jim Rogers