Hey everyone,
I'm picking up parts for my log splitter build and I'd like some opinions on what type of splitter to build. I'm looking to build something that's pretty much commercial quality but I might save some dollars where I can. I split about 4 cords by hand last year plus another 3 with a borrowed machine but the rounds are piling up quicker than I can get to them. This is mostly for friends, family and personal use. In all honest I work so much and all the kids play sports, I just like to get the house chores done as quickly as possible.
Right now I have a Honda GX390 engine and a 22 gpm pump. Where I'm stuck is a two fold issue; I'd like my son (10) to be able to help me run the machine and my property is mostly large red oak trees. My initial thought was to build a vertical splitter that has a very fast cycle time but single wedge. This would at least create uniform splits and there wouldn't be a lot of waste. I do worry about my son getting his hand caught between the wedge and a round with that setup. The other type I considered is a box wedge since most of my trees tend to be 30" or so. With the box wedge I figured it reduces handling of the rounds while splitting and I'll just have to move the very large pieces with the tractor. What size round do people generally consider unsafe for a horizontal splitter, over 40"?
Last question, has one had any experience with the rugged made cylinders? They're the only supplier I can find that has larger cylinder rods to help with cycle times. I figure the smallest I'll probably go is a 4.5" if I build vertical and 5" with the horizontal.
I only know what I've read but...
Have you looked at Surplus Center for rams?
Are you going to install a dump valve (I think that's what its called) to bypass the return to the tank for faster return stroke? Might work as well or better then a bigger rod.
30"+ rounds of oak? Wow - I wouldn't want to be loading those! 40" is crazy! Are you going to have a lift for a horizontal splitter?
Have you seen the vertical splitters with a comfortable height work table? They use a lift to get the rounds up. They have two grips you have to hold before the ram will go - nice safety for your son.
I really don't want to send you to another posts but there have been some nice builds. One just a few weeks ago. You might get some ideas from them.
I have one of those that can split vertical and horizontal. Nice for the big ones, I have split stuff 3 feet across with it. Those big ones are hard to get under the splitter, I wonder at times if those are really worth it. Than when I split them small enough to pick up I split them horizontal. I found out splitting those big ones, at ground level are kinda hard on the back. But saying that I would not want a piece 3 feet across on a narrow 6 inch beam, up in the air with out a table to support it either.
Mine is a store bought one. Lever has to be held for it to go forward. It will go back by itself.
The one that was built a few weeks back, had a table about waist high for splitting.
I admire your ethic and dont wanna be a downer here. there is a but.
You wont be able to build a fast commercial grade splitter for less than a manufacturer who is buying pallets of components and whole flatbeds of steel. Unless you have a really robust junkpile and a hydraulic hose connection and...
For avg 24"+ wood a box wedge with dragback and a crane or log lift are the way to go, just look away from the kindling.. So what if it makes kindling. Thats paid for in nice square uniform wood that stacks as good as bricks.
The things you will need to do for fast cycle times are expensive. have a large cylinder rod. a huge split valve with big hoses or double ports in the cylinder blind end for standard sized hoses and 2 valves for splitting to double the flow in and out of the rodless end.
There are dump valves to go straight from cylinder blind end to tank on the return, and there is regenerative stroke valving to speed up the extend cycle but a big rod wont need it.
Again this is some pretty high level expensive stuff and the big hoses may be the spot to be content with. Its not hard to teardown a cylinder and weld an extra SCH80 or SCH120 fitting to the very back end with a preheat and post heat to help limit distortion down where a backyard mortal cant get a hone.
The bigger the rod, the more imbalanced the fluid volumes on either side of the piston. A large fluid volume is trying to vent out the return hose and its being pushed by a small fluid volume. So lets say half gallon to fully retract, but you need to exhaust 2 gallons to do it, like a hydraulic syringe. That exhaust side needs to be very large, and the shortest path to tabk possible with low friction... or you are heating fluid. A big dump valve is needed to run a big rod diameter. One without the other just wont shine like both together.
What about a dual direction splitter? Thought I saw one of those somewhere?
have a double ended wedge that splits in both directions. Set it up so one direction you split big stuff and the other direction is to just resplit stuff that was already split. Would essentially double the amount of splits in a single cycle.
The biggest issue is where to mount the ram so it works. but if you keep the ram low then you can split the big on the one side and have a tray on top of the ram on the other side for smaller pieces. Clear as mud? right? :)
Ever since I saw my first kinetic log splitter I have been sold. talk about fast!
There are quite a few of those on youtube.. Left and right box wedges with a block on a table in the center.
Few downsides. You have to wrestle the round over the block manually each pass. the time saved splitting is spent on picking up two piles. or on having 2 conveyors. And youll have one direction strong and one direction weak unless one uses 2 opposing cylinders and free floating cylinder connections to the pusher block.
I suggest you rethink this. By the time you buy all the bits and pieces you probably won't save any money and you will have to work out the bugs yourself. The better splitters have the controls mounted far enough away from the ram that fingers won't get pinched but if you are loading while he is operating accidents can happen.
Actually at a given volume and pressure a larger cylinder will be slower but but will exert more force, smaller is faster but less powerful. That engine and pump would work well with a 5" cylinder, lots of power and reasonable cycle time.
I was thinking move the wedge back and forth. as long as you have a table once it is split once it drops onto the table then you just flip 1 half up on top to return.
When it comes to splitting my firewood I make a phone call and have it delivered. My time is much better spent doing all the other things on the list.
A few comments .
A simple single wedge splitter should be all that you need for <10 cord a year. No need to go all out.
Dont worry about cycle time. A 22gpm pump on a 13hp motor with a 4 or 5" cylinder will outwork 1man, or 1 man and a kid or two. Unless you have 3 teenage boys running it, you will be glad for the 3-5 sec return stroke time.
While the box splitters look cool, they are waaaay harder to build and much fussier about the wood they like. I highly recommend you keep it simple and go with a single or 4 way wedge.
What other equipment do you have? Lifting heavy rounds is hard on the back. If you have a loader or other way to hoist them great. If not, then a log lift or a vertical mode should be considered.
I've built more than one splitter so have lots more inputs depending on the direction you take. I'll reply later after you start to converge on a design.
I build one good project a year and next year it will be this splitter. Last year I built a grapple for my tractor that turned out great and just what I wanted at about roughly half the cost of a new one. I do have a stock pile of steel plate (3/16-3/4") shears, sheets, etc. sitting in my shop and I already have the beam. I work in commercial construction so my projects end up with tons of misc metals that don't get used for one reason or another and I'm fortunate enough I've made contacts with enough people that I can typically buy material at a greatly reduced cost.
Whatever style I build will definitely have a log lift since like I mentioned most of the rounds are around 30" and then dropping off. Last year I had two trees dropped that were 38" and 34" at about 6" up. I used one of the vert/horizontal splitters and just moving the rounds around for 4 hours kicked my butt. Even with the tractor once you get the first wedge in it becomes difficult to move since it doesn't actually split it half.
I think I'm leaning towards a splitter design like the Eastonmade 12-22. I'm not sure I need an adjustable height on the wedge because it will either be the box wedge or a single wedge to deal with the very knotty stuff. I've considered the 4 way but that means I have to handle the large splits that fall off, get them back on the table and go through a couple more times. I do need to read up on dump valves because I'm not sure the time reduction will be enough to bother with it and the added heat probably won't be an issue considering I'm mostly splitting in the spring or fall. I'm also trying to source a Galtech valve that's 120lpm which should cut down on the heat build up and that has work ports at 3/4" to match the cylinder I'm looking at.
I think the safety for your son is you working with him, and setting some rules. my son was 12 when he started using out homemade splitter. the guy pulling the lever, is the guy who is stabilizing the log, and your hand goes on top, not on either end. I built with a 32-inch x 5-inch cylinder, so it is hard for a youngin to have a hand on the valve lever, and the far end of a log. I use stops to decrease the cycle time (so the cylinder does not fully retract) as most of my stuff is about 16 inches so I can feed front to back. with my son operating, I cut run at idle and slow it all down, and it powers through and is quiet enough to communicate without yelling. the worst is to have two young guys working together and one has a hand in the wrong spot, when the other pulls the lever. I have an 18 hp (needed 16) with a 28 gal/min. two stage pump with a 5-inch cylinder. I have considered a dump valve but my plumbing is simple and neat. I use a crane with a lifting tong to place 3-foot logs on the table. I have sides along the edges of the beam to help hold the logs on top. I have a single 18-inch-tall wedge. I made an 8-way split, but more trouble than it is worth. I think I would use a 4 way. If you have lots of materials and a tractor to load. could build a three-point splitter to break the log rounds in half or quarters with an inverted splitter, then move to the horizontal one.
What everyone SHOULD BE building isnt a one or the other.. But a BOTH machine. All we see is vertical or horizontal. It should be vertical AND horizontal. Its one more cylinder and a 2 spool valve or a selector on a single spool.
You build your 5 inch slow horizontal 4 way with catch racks or table, and right next to you is a perfect working height vertical single knife table with a 2.5 inch fast cylinder all with easy ergonomic layout from either position. The big slow bust is done by the 4 way and now the big pieces that need resplit can be grabbed with the right hand if youre a righty or if lefty build it on the other side of the discharge. So one person is rolling rounds onto the lift and 4waying them while the other operator is pulling out resplits and fixing jams at the conveyor thats right next to him without ever moving. Dads work position should be facing boys work position so he can scream at him or bump the E stop when tragedy is near.
Make the log lift big enough for dad to pile on a good few rounds and ensure there is a guardrail at the operator side of the 4 way that is big enough the rounds cant run the boy over if he tips the lift too high and they come rolling down too fast. Use telescopic tubing for a dropleg stabilizer to keep the loaded log lift from flipping the machine.
A priority valve upstream of 2 independant splitter valves is how both stations can be running simultaneously without slowing up the other one. Extra HP and cooling would be a good idea
Those are big blocks of heavy wood, I think you have it narrowed down to the two best choices with the box wedge or vertical . With blocks that heavy my first inclination would be a EastonMade style box wedge but I do like the simplicity of the vertical splitter and the blocks sitting on the flat . The large heavy blocks will still be a bit of a struggle on a vertical but a few rollers on the lift side would reduce the effort.
Another helper idea I have thought of for a vertical would be to make turn table under the splitting wedge so you could turn the large block with little effort for initial break down. The turn table could be very simple with a heavy round piece of plate that insets in the table with a piece of rod in the centre that is sharpened to a point. It only has to lift up a little bit (¼" ?) to spin easy and could be lifted by a leaver that is hand or foot operated or lifted by the last little bit of the return stroke of the splitting cylinder. If using the splitting cylinder it would good to be able to engage and disengage it.
A carosel is a great idea. A flat plate welded to a rim on a trailer spindle. The flat plate glides 3/16 over a solid metal perch so that when the splitter hits it the table deflects a hair down to the perch for the split, then springs back up.
If you do telescoping square tubing, weld the nut on the corner, not the flat, as to not deform and create problems with the telescope. :)
Cool, I had seen that before but did not know why. It's late in the day but still under the wire :D
Quote from: mike_belben on November 30, 2021, 09:16:44 AM
What everyone SHOULD BE building isnt a one or the other.. But a BOTH machine. All we see is vertical or horizontal. It should be vertical AND horizontal. Its one more cylinder and a 2 spool valve or a selector on a single spool.
You build your 5 inch slow horizontal 4 way with catch racks or table, and right next to you is a perfect working height vertical single knife table with a 2.5 inch fast cylinder all with easy ergonomic layout from either position. The big slow bust is done by the 4 way and now the big pieces that need resplit can be grabbed with the right hand if youre a righty or if lefty build it on the other side of the discharge. So one person is rolling rounds onto the lift and 4waying them while the other operator is pulling out resplits and fixing jams at the conveyor thats right next to him without ever moving. Dads work position should be facing boys work position so he can scream at him or bump the E stop when tragedy is near.
Make the log lift big enough for dad to pile on a good few rounds and ensure there is a guardrail at the operator side of the 4 way that is big enough the rounds cant run the boy over if he tips the lift too high and they come rolling down too fast. Use telescopic tubing for a dropleg stabilizer to keep the loaded log lift from flipping the machine.
A priority valve upstream of 2 independant splitter valves is how both stations can be running simultaneously without slowing up the other one. Extra HP and cooling would be a good idea
I certainly give the boy an ear full while working. If the girls decide to help they get the same, but they usually don't like to help for too long.
Quote from: Hilltop366 on November 30, 2021, 10:24:04 AM
Those are big blocks of heavy wood, I think you have it narrowed down to the two best choices with the box wedge or vertical . With blocks that heavy my first inclination would be a EastonMade style box wedge but I do like the simplicity of the vertical splitter and the blocks sitting on the flat . The large heavy blocks will still be a bit of a struggle on a vertical but a few rollers on the lift side would reduce the effort.
Another helper idea I have thought of for a vertical would be to make turn table under the splitting wedge so you could turn the large block with little effort for initial break down. The turn table could be very simple with a heavy round piece of plate that insets in the table with a piece of rod in the centre that is sharpened to a point. It only has to lift up a little bit (¼" ?) to spin easy and could be lifted by a leaver that is hand or foot operated or lifted by the last little bit of the return stroke of the splitting cylinder. If using the splitting cylinder it would good to be able to engage and disengage it.
I also like the simplicity of the vertical table splitter. I'm going to mull over the turn table idea for the big blocks. I'm still a bit worried about the weight since some of those have to be a solid 300lbs+. I've tried dropping a few on the horizontal splitter I borrowed and it was too light and unbalanced to take the weight. I had to use the tractor to hold it while my helper split it.
I'll give you an idea of what I've been dealing with on my property, the area is relatively untouched other than when the houses where built in the 50s. This is probably one of the largest trees I have but I have a couple larger and probably 15 or so that are not much smaller. They produce an enormous amount of wood.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/49182/20210419_123421.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1638334487)
my table after the split wedge is 2 feet wide, and I have a side table that is 2 x 4 feet, and has the adjustable legs to create a slope as desired. I have room to split big stuff in half, then stage 1/2 on the table while I split the other half.
Every boy needs an earful.
Id probably build a mobile beam splitter on a tractor or bobcat or backhoe etc if i always had that stuff to deal with.
My horizontal splitter that I purchased recently (new to me) has a table on both sides of the beam that goes back and forth with the pusher, it takes a bit of getting use to but I kind of like it.
You have to change your method of operation a bit because you can't split and keep pushing everything through but it brings everything back for re-split or stacking so you avoid reaching out past the wedge and struggling to pull blocks back.
It has a 12" single wedge and a 3½" cylinder which makes it plenty quick with only a 160cc motor. It is more along the lines of a vertical splitter as far as method of operations go but a vertical would still be an advantage in regards to physical effort for any block that needs more than a few splits.
Just when you think you have had a original thought. :D (not really, I know better)
The vertical splitter with turn table.
Binderberger Holzspalter - H27 Super Speed mit hydr. Stammheber - YouTube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ry2E7-HpimQ)
You may also like....
Gigant pro - YouTube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0vWn_Crp4ik)
or
X-Spalter - Optimale Spaltergebnisse im Minutentakt! - YouTube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yuFsbMlTx5g)
hey, they used my idea to. Man those things are sweet!!!!
They have some nice gear, looks like they are in Austria. This one popped up on youtube so I got looking around on their channel. I posted a link here.
Re: A different firewood splitter design (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?topic=117102.msg1865299#msg1865299)
Is it me or does it seem over seas has much better stuff? Could it be that they are less sue crazy and don't have as much safety crap?
You make it idiot proof and they make a better idiot :)
One of the things I see over seas all the time are the MAN flat nose trucks. Makes so much more sense for more cargo capacity. Unfortunately Americans just have to supersize everything!
The MAN trucks actually have hydraulic assist front drive. supposedly there is no parasitic loss when it is disengaged. I watched a video on it before, pretty kool technology.
If you want to speed up your cycle times you can plumb your cylinder so that when you are extending both sides of the cylinder are plumbed together and both get pressure. The side without the rod has more square inches pushing on it so it will overpower the side and cause the cylinder to extend. As it extends the fluid on the rod side has no place to go and is forced into the non rod side. The rod will extend very fast but have very little power.
Then once the wedge hits the wood you only put pressure on the non rod side and it will have power when extending again.
I don't know if the extra complexity and the need for an extra valve is justifiable for the extra speed.
Those splitters are pretty sweet although the splits are pretty long.
I've convinced myself the box wedge with lift table would be the best route for me. I'm just trying to figure out if I can do a single wedge that's adjustable manually. That way I can have it for the knotty wood, then lower it down when I'm using the box wedge and it'll just become the center wedge. How to anchor the box wedge is a different story. That would certainly simplify the setup and save some cash on a cylinder, valve and hoses. I don't see myself switching setups that frequently other than crotch wood or possibly the larger hickories I have.
Quote from: Joe Hillmann on December 01, 2021, 06:34:49 PM
If you want to speed up your cycle times you can plumb your cylinder so that when you are extending both sides of the cylinder are plumbed together and both get pressure. The side without the rod has more square inches pushing on it so it will overpower the side and cause the cylinder to extend. As it extends the fluid on the rod side has no place to go and is forced into the non rod side. The rod will extend very fast but have very little power.
Then once the wedge hits the wood you only put pressure on the non rod side and it will have power when extending again.
I don't know if the extra complexity and the need for an extra valve is justifiable for the extra speed.
I'm going to go with standard plumbing for now and see how it performs. If I end up with a real issue I'll take a closer look. According to the calculator I found online the setup I'm thinking about is 8.4 secs cycle time if I use a 5" cylinder. The 4.5" cylinder drops that down to 7 seconds which is pretty fast.
Use a car scissor jack for moving the wedge box
my old boss used to say, "keep it simple stupid". i agree with a wedge and a cylinder. lots of variables like RPMs. cylinder length, adding back stops. you can do work while the detent is working. you can get auto forward and detent valves ect. got a two-stage pump 28 gallon pump. with a 5 inch cylinder, I work fine at an idle and talk above the noise.
there is a company named split eze. they have great products and James is very knowledgably. He will tell you if a bypass dump valve speeds things up...prob. not but reduce heat and wear and tear. and they sell then as well.
It all depends on how resourceful you are for parts .It doesn't have be lightning fast like it's a race .Some think it is though for some reason .
Here is a picture of my homebuilt made from basically repurposed junk .Tilts,lays flat built solid as a battle ship and with a 5" cylinder will split anything .The cycle time will out run me at slightly above engine idle speed .That pile of EAB killed ash took me a little over an hour working at a snails pace because I need to rest every so often .It's around two face cords ,enough to last me 2-3 weeks .This thing is not pretty but highly functional .
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/12054/DSCN10495B15D.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1639068989)
i noticed this morning surplus center just started carrying a very economical new brand of single spool splitter valve. "dirty hand tools" is the brand and a valve is only $60 new. ymmv, just thought id mention it.
"This thing is not pretty but highly functional"
Kinda like us Al. Doc :)
Yes indeed ;)
Copy Power Split international, that's what I would do.
You mentioned that you built a grapple for your tractor; I would build two splitters. The first for the tractor. I have split many a oversized round. Trying to roll them around under a vertical/horizontal unit is a pain. Having them up in the air is dangerous. Everyone worries about the wedge cutting off a finger. Reality is falling blocks will break your foot and turning the oversize chunks will mash your fingers between the round and the work table. Reduce the big rounds to halves or quarters where they sit with an inverted 3pt tractor splitter and then work the manageable size blocks to size with a horizontal.
Box wedge is great for productivity but does generate an enormous amount of trash and uses a bunch of fuel doing it. Red oak is heavy but actually splits fairly easy. Having been through a single wedge box store unit, skid steer inverted, Eastonmade 22-28 with box, 4 and 6-way wedges, Supersplit Heavy Duty Kinectic, and Dyna SC-14 Processor what I found is the inverted single wedge for the big ones and the kinetic for the rest is the sweet spot for rounds. If you have a boiler and can use big chunks the multiwedge works fine but for stove-wood splits you will be re-splitting and the big hp/cylinder is a liability instead of an asset. If the kinetic is too fast for kids something like the fast cycle hydraulic design that Eastonmade markets to compete with the kinetics might fit the bill.
If you cut to the chase on home builds you are only limited by your pocket book and imagination .Plus of course your fabrication skills .
If you are selling fire wood in volume a faster unit ,perhaps even a box splitter would be better .However just doing enough to keep the home fires burning that would be way too much over kill in my opinion .
Quote from: stavebuyer on December 10, 2021, 04:15:06 AMReduce the big rounds to halves or quarters where they sit with an inverted 3pt tractor splitter and then work the manageable size blocks to size with a horizontal.
Now that's an interesting thought. Is there a skidsteer mount one? I could see driving around busting the big stuff then pushing it into a pile by the horizontal.
https://www.skidsteers.com/log-splitter-upside-down-skid-steer-attachment/?gclid=CjwKCAiA-9uNBhBTEiwAN3IlNC0fp46HlvqCoYDE81G4aaKdVQ_lLjqDC_VVTRwf5hy7V826IRz01RoCccgQAvD_BwE (https://www.skidsteers.com/log-splitter-upside-down-skid-steer-attachment/?gclid=CjwKCAiA-9uNBhBTEiwAN3IlNC0fp46HlvqCoYDE81G4aaKdVQ_lLjqDC_VVTRwf5hy7V826IRz01RoCccgQAvD_BwE)
Quote from: btulloh on December 13, 2021, 06:37:59 PM
https://www.skidsteers.com/log-splitter-upside-down-skid-steer-attachment/?gclid=CjwKCAiA-9uNBhBTEiwAN3IlNC0fp46HlvqCoYDE81G4aaKdVQ_lLjqDC_VVTRwf5hy7V826IRz01RoCccgQAvD_BwE (https://www.skidsteers.com/log-splitter-upside-down-skid-steer-attachment/?gclid=CjwKCAiA-9uNBhBTEiwAN3IlNC0fp46HlvqCoYDE81G4aaKdVQ_lLjqDC_VVTRwf5hy7V826IRz01RoCccgQAvD_BwE)
I have a different brand but same principal. The cylinder needs a push plate with the wedge fixed at the end so you can use the next block to push the ones that invariably hang on the wedge. I kept my SS model and bought a 3pt to SS adapter for the back of my tractor. Works fine although a little slower since much less flow.
Quote from: Don P on December 13, 2021, 06:29:36 PM
Quote from: stavebuyer on December 10, 2021, 04:15:06 AMReduce the big rounds to halves or quarters where they sit with an inverted 3pt tractor splitter and then work the manageable size blocks to size with a horizontal.
Now that's an interesting thought. Is there a skidsteer mount one? I could see driving around busting the big stuff then pushing it into a pile by the horizontal.
When you get used to it you; you start the split where the block lays and then pick it up and pile as you finish. Too slow do small blocks but a real time and back saver for the bigunns.
you can pinch a little to carry them where you want them and then split them in half or quarter to save your back.
You can break down some pretty good sized rounds with a tilt up . Roll them in place and have at it .You certainly can't lift a 36" round of white oak .Lots of wood in this big rounds but you have to work for it .I might do a couple rounds and sit down, drink a cup of coffee or annoy somebody on the internet for sport .I work for myself by myself and at my own pace .Fact I might drag up a few logs and do another partial cord tomorrow if the weather is fit .
I enjoy that method so much I've debated breaking out the CSM and taking a 12" deep slab off the top :D.
Quote from: Al_Smith on December 13, 2021, 07:56:32 PM
You can break down some pretty good sized rounds with a tilt up . Roll them in place and have at it .You certainly can't lift a 36" round of white oak .Lots of wood in this big rounds but you have to work for it .I might do a couple rounds and sit down, drink a cup of coffee or annoy somebody on the internet for sport .I work for myself by myself and at my own pace .Fact I might drag up a few logs and do another partial cord tomorrow if the weather is fit .
I use a chainsaw to make the big rounds and then use that chainsaw to divide them up into smaller pieces for placing on the splitter.
Also roll some of the rounds onto a pallet and lift that pallet up to the height of the horizontal splitter for easy, no-lifting splitting.
(place the splits on another pallet for moving to the drying yard.
To quarter big rounds manually (which i rarely have to do anymore) you stand it up like youre gonna split with a maul. Cut a phillips head slot in the top until the whole bar depth is just buried.. 4 inch or so. Pound a steel wedge into the far side sapwood kerf until the wood groans.
Give it one mean wack with the maul on the near side sapwood in the saw kerf. Pops right open unless its black gum. If its black gum push it over the hill or give away. Not worth breaking your splitter.
I've never had much luck with a maul .Tough ones a couple of steel wedges and an 8 pound sledge do better .I do have some big chainsaws that noodle real well if it comes to that . It's very seldom I get much over 3 feet in diameter which I can roll in place .However I do have a big fat standing dead shag bark and a wind blown ash that will require some special attention .I can tell by looking at them those are 4 cord trees .Just one of those would hold me the entire year .
Fasttruck,
Bring us along with your build when you get going. 8)
build them safe /no side tray to hold wood before u split .not to fast on stroke/ use a H BEAM and u dont have to hold the block,put the open part of H up ,noone has to be neer that block.ALWAYS HAVE A HELPER even if there not working .ive had a splitter 4 thirty years used in sugarwoods and furnace .lost a good friend who split hundreds of coards with one this .like doc says be safe. :new_year:
Quote from: 711ac on December 20, 2021, 11:23:53 AM
Fasttruck,
Bring us along with your build when you get going. 8)
Will do. It'll take me a bit to collect all the parts, but once I do I'll post photos.