I like to use pine or polar for walls and ceilings anyone do it?
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shop walls.
Is 2 1/2 inch nails enough?
yes, these were milled to 1/2 inch actual and fastened with 2-inch finish nails. i would be more worried about a head pulling through than a nail coming out of the stud. these were put up relatively wet in a shop space.
When I saw the topic, I thought the question was of rough sawn studs. I've had that question before. Problem would come from an uneven surface to mount drywall on (because of difference in shrinkage from drying). I've thought of planing just the width dimension (to 3-1/2") or letting the studs dry and re-cut the width so they would be consistent dimension.
The biggest challenge with rough sawn lumber inside a home is that the surface will trap dust, and if you try to dust it off you'll get splinters in your dust mop, or it will leave threads on the wall.
With a thick enough finish you can dust it, but it's still problematic.
I built my kitchen cabinets, doors and trim out of roughsawn lumber. As others say they collect dust and dirt. I eventually painted most of it with a thick-ish oil based paint to make cleaning easier. And because the wife wanted them white.
I am in the process of building an entire house from rough sawn lumber( finished walls, finished floors, ceilings, beams, doors and trim) I intend to very lightly sand it all with a brush head to freshen it up, clean off the sawdust and smooth sharp edges and tooth marks. If we dont like it we can always cover it with paint or put up sheetrock.
rough saw only a problem where you need it graded
Dirt, dust, and especially spider webs. My wife put her foot down firmly and we planed our timbers. Still get spider webs but they do come off.
when i do interior walls with rough i always use black plastic as a vapor barrier so as the boards shrink you see black in the gaps between the boards. looks nicer than seeing insulation and studs. jg
There are wire brush machines set up like a sander. Would those smooth the more offending dust collectors on the surface and still provide a rough-sawn look?
i think there was a thread on it. It is like a burnisher. the look would be what it is, and it would make it smoother but keep the grain. @metalspinner (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=2750)
Cleaning weathered wood... in Drying and Processing (forestryforum.com) (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?topic=116368.0)
That brush does knock off the loose stuff. But I don't think it will smooth the rough sawn splinters very well.
Maybe a courser grit wheel than I used?? It's fairly inexpensive to test.
But I think @WDH (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=4370) has a tree smoother he uses pretty effectively.
Quote from: PoginyHill on January 19, 2022, 08:26:23 AM
When I saw the topic, I thought the question was of rough sawn studs. I've had that question before. Problem would come from an uneven surface to mount drywall on (because of difference in shrinkage from drying). I've thought of planing just the width dimension (to 3-1/2") or letting the studs dry and re-cut the width so they would be consistent dimension.
I have sawn well over a million bf of framing lumber including studs. I stopped counting the "whole houses" that I have sawn for when they passed 25 and that was over 10 years ago. I have never been asked to come back and resurface the widths nor been aware of any of them being planed.
I think there is a difference between advice for framing and wall type rough sawn. Poss. the OP can clarify which they are most interested in.
Quote from: metalspinner on February 06, 2022, 03:07:34 PM
But I think @WDH (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=4370) has a tree smoother he uses pretty effectively.
I spend a lot of time with that tree smoother :).
Can I use it some day.
You have two very fine ones that I would kill to get.....
Quote from: PoginyHill on February 06, 2022, 07:51:29 AM
There are wire brush machines set up like a sander. Would those smooth the more offending dust collectors on the surface and still provide a rough-sawn look?
I have a sand-rite nylon and sanding brush head. I use the corset paper they offer. I think 40 grit. It does a good job of smoothing out sharp edges on corners and out of set teeth and removes sawdust.
The softer edges are easier to clean and probably dont catch as much dust to begin with.
Give the boards a quick pass with a palm sander makes cleaning them in the future way easier.