Hello to all,
Here's the power wood working tools I currently own:
All 120V's
2 tables saws
Jigsaw
Planer
Compound Miter Saw
Grinder
Oscillating tool
Sawzall [semi-wood working tool) ;-)
4 Stihl Chainsaws
I have always wanted but never owned a router. However, a dear friend died and he wanted me to have a variety of different tools, one being a Rigid 18V compact router. I have viewed multiple YouTube videos on this specific tool, and one thing it really lacks is a good bit or set of bits. They also recommend buying 3-7 bits that you will use rather than a set of 20 bits. These sets are usually lower quality too, like from the big box stores.
Question:
Can anyone pls recommend a good list of router bits for the most common types of router cuts? Any advice from guys that use routers all the time, I would really appreciate what you recommend for someone that has never used a router, and what they would need for most of the basic cuts. However, I am more than willing to take advice and learn.
Finally, if there's a woodworking-site that demo's this type tool w great depth and it's bits, that would be greatly appreciated too.
Many thanks,
tstex
Don't buy a big set. Just get them as you see a need for what you want to build.
I don't know how many routers I have, but I'm sure it's more than 30. Most are dedicated to one job, and some haven't changed the bit in decades.
For router bits, Whiteside is my first choice, and Amana a close second.
I don't know if Mark has router videos, but I expect he does. I haven't watched any of his videos, but am a mentor on his woodworking forums. Look up the Woodwhisperer videos.
I keep a 1/8th inch bit in a Bosch (colt) palm router all the time to ease edges and make things an "elegant rustic". I have made many charcuterie boards, and they still look live edge, but feel great to handle. I prefer half inch shanks when it makes sense and bearing guides as well. watch for sales or clearance or the sets, but I still use a just few bits 90% of the time.
I have a boxed set and only use 3-4 of the bits. Most of the Ogee bits are never going to be used. I have a number of Bosch, Freud and Amana bits which are good quality.
Besides, if you buy all the bits at once, you will deprive yourself of the fun of shopping for them. Check the smaller independent hardware stores if you have them around. They will carry different lines of products than the box stores.
The bits you need will be based on what you want to create. A three bit round over set(cove), edge trimmer would be good to start. There are also bits that use guide bearings if you like to rout with a template.
You will go glassy eyed at all the different router bits. Decide what you want to do and add them as needed, you probably wouldn't use 90% of most kits. For occasional use inexpensive steel will probably get you by but be patient so they don't overheat. If you are doing a lot of cabinet or molding work invest in high end carbide tipped such as Freud and don't lend them out, you won't regret it. A good sharpening service is your best friend.
I agree on buy as you need. I wish I had a router for each bit :D.
The only set I've bought and used them all is a set of 1/4, 3/8, and 1/2 roundover bits.
Funny thing about those bit kits: Even if they have 50 bits in them, they still seem to be missing the exact one you need on a Sunday afternoon to get to the next step on a project. :D :D
I just buy as I need, it gives me a chance to compare brands also. I bought a small (4 pc.) set of similar shaped bits with bearings and every one I used the bearing blew apart in 10 minutes of run time. Glad it was a 15 bit set. ;D
I use a 45 chamfer bit with a bearing pretty often instead of a roundover but use small roundovers frequently. 1/4, 1/2 and 3/4 straight bits for housings, mortises, grooves and dados.
I purchased a 66 bit set from MLCS a couple years ago and it is very handy to have all the profiles at less then $3.00 a bit for small runs. I have used Bosch individual bits for years and they stand up well. A straight pilot bearing bit is my most used bit and is very handy for template work along with trimming edges. I have recently started buying Amana bits for my CNC router and they have the cleanest and smoothest cut of any bits I have ever used with a very long life for both hand and CNC routing but they also are expensive. I think the MLCS sets are good affordable sets to get started especially if you wait for the Black Friday deals. You may want to start planning projects you will be using them for first. My most used bits are 1/2 straight flush trim with bearing, 1/8 1/4 & 3/8 radiuses with ball bearing, 45 deg chamfer with bearing, rabbet set with different diameter bearings, 1/8 radius with 1/8 brass pilot, and a couple straight cutters. A 18 volt compact router will have limits to the size bits it can handle and depths of cut so your choices must be limited to 1/4 inch shanks. I use a m18 Milwaukee and it's a very handy router for light cuts and a good starter router but will kill a 5 ah battery quickly so I would recommend having a second battery for larger jobs.
For someone who has never used a router. You will most likely want to be using it to round over edges or chamfer. I would recommend several size round overs, starting with 1/8.
Keep alert as your body learns automatically whether you are approaching the work with the rotation or agin it. Each has its place but keep a firm grip and focus, it will try to run away a time or two as you get the hang of it. Dad's first admonition when he handed me a router, always turn the bit away from you when setting it down, never turn the bit back towards you. It wants to grab you or anything loose on you.
Oh another one, rarer use but handy, I chucked up a new slotting bit the other day for window seals.
I am also a fan of Whiteside and Amana bits, but I have Freud, CMT and Jesada also. I buy them as I need them.
Since this is your first router, take care when mounting the cutters. Do NOT let them bottom out in the collet. It can cause them to loosen up in use. Put the bit in, slight tighten it, and them pull it up about an 1/8".
I don't think you have an option, but I always go with 1/2" shank bits when I have a choice.
Doug in SW iA
Thank you very much guys, it is appreciated !!
Should have probably provided this to you first. The main applications are as follows:
-rabbeting when putting a cabinet/edges together
-corner finishes for cabinet and tables
-decorative finishes for sm picture frames
-slot or "V" cuts just inside the perimeter of a table and other for decorative looks
-trimming edges to fit a master template or any other cuts
Based on the above, here are the initial bits I feel are needed. Pls let me know if the sizes selected are correct ands others sizes you use...I know future experience will dictate this, but you have that experience now and I respect where you've been.
Round-over bit, 1/4 & 1/8 for varying projects to smooth out edges
Rabbet bit, 1/2" w bearing kit
Ogee Roman, for picture frames
Chamfer bit 45 degree. Is there a preferred height or size?
Slot bit - is 1/8 or 1/4 more of a standard, or both?
Flush Trim Bit (bearing on the bottom)
Summary:
I definitely hear you on owning a more powerful (120V) router w a 1/2" shaft. For now, if I invest in a 1/4" carbide tip small set or specific bits, then as I become more familiar w what I like and need to do, will then get the more powerful 120V w router table. If I'm not mistaken, the better 1/2" routers shafts have an adapter for 1/4" too. So, I can use the 1/4" bits that I buy now [if applicable], but for longer cuts, harder woods and more sustained cutting, I'll buy the 1/2" full carbide bits individually as I need them when i buy a good 120V router.
Based on the above, would this set work for now? I am now familiar w all the bits in this set, except the last 3. What do you guys think?
MLCS 15 Piece Router Bit Sets (https://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/set15piece.html)
thanks again, tstex
I would suggest you buy a book on routers. I got one many years ago, and read it completely cover to cover. It helped me to understand all the different ways a router could be used to create your woodworking projects.
Especially router safety.
Some router bits turn at 10,000 rpm. And can cut you a lot as the spin down, if they get ahold of your clothing and get dragged in.
One of my favorite lessons I learned was how to create a dowel out of any type of wood for your woodworking projects. You do that with a standard round over bit. By running it down your perfectly sized square stock on all four corners.
I've made dowels and handles of all sizes.
Like this:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10095/Q_Commanders_and_Mallets-2.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1645885950)
Good luck with your projects.
Jim Rogers
I keep a 1/8" round over bit in a laminate trimmer. I have a plunge router and I also have a router table. I use them all.
The big routers suffer the gyroscope effect and can be unwieldy. The laminate trimmer is a one handed unit for me.
Bits- After buying a set that I use maybe 3...I buy individual bits and T&G sets from Yonico off of ebay. They seem good quality for reasonable prices, but my use is heavy homeowner not commercial.
my first router was a MW when a teen, then I began buying porter cable as that was my Dad's brand. there is a kit that comes with a standard motor, with a standard base and a plunge base, and has both the 1/4 and 1/2 in collets. Bosch makes good routers too.
(https://www.portercable.com/NAG/PRODUCT/IMAGES/HIRES/693LRPK/693LRPK_1.jpg?resize=530x530)
I like my palm router too.
(https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/817SCqtzmpL._AC_UL320_.jpg)
Hitachi makes a very good combo that has a fixed and a plunge base. It is 2 1/4 horse and comes with 1/4 and 1/2 collets. This was a great combo for my first router, because I could mount the fixed base in a table and use the plunge base for handheld work. Now I have a larger Triton router permanently in my table and use the Hitachi for handheld. I also have 2 trim routers, a Ridgid and a Porter cable. Multiple routers are nice because I can leave a 1/4" roundover in one all the time.
That set would probably be a good place to start. I find my routers are the most used tools in my shop. These are the routers I use. I prefer Bosch as their bearings seem to last the longest for me. The Dewalt compacts are bullet proof. One of mine has over 500 hours on it in my first cnc router and is still fine. The Harbor freight trim router is basically junk and I would not recommend them.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/34694/IMG_0533.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1645899136)
In my router table I use a 3 1/2 HP Milwaukee with speed control that is extremely smooth running and powerful at lower speeds.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/34694/IMG_0535.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1645899148)
This is how I store my most used bits
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/34694/IMG_0536.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1645899155)
I used plastic holders from Lee Valley mounted to boards. They do not hold moisture and grip the bits tightly
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/34694/IMG_0538~0.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1645899167)
I made vinyl labels to keep track of them and know the specs of each bit. I have another batch of holders on my cnc router
Below is the router on my CNC machine. It is a 3hp water cooled VFD controlled spindle that is whisper quiet and can run for hours without problems.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/34694/IMG_0537.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1645899162)
So basically you have entered a rabbit hole and there is a good chance your router and bit collection will grow over the years. One book I have enjoyed is an older one Router Jigs & Techniques By Patrick Spielman. Lots of basics and jig ideas in it but I am not sure it is still in print.
Wow 21...it seems you have it all covered....
Let me ask you this: If you were to pick 5 of your most favorite "go to" bits, what would they be in the order of priority? If you need to expand that to your 10 most "go to" bits, pls do so...
And yes, wood working is an endless horizon of things you can do.
Thank you.
PS [edited] - how long did it take you to make that collection? Did you buy everything or have an uncle, dad or other that gave you some things?
21 is prob. the exception, and in the top 0.001 of bit and router owners. I am curious to see his response. how old are you? I have bits I bought when I was 15 years old. still have them and the few in a kit I have not used, are in perfect condition. If money was not a huge deal (high school and college student for the first half of my life.) i would get an MCLS kit with about 60 bits, and then add to it, if you plan to jump off the deep end. no question that individual bits are more costly, and you favorite bits will need replaced if you will give them years of use. If you have a little money the go with bearings and carbide. I bought a new set at Lowes 4 years ago on clearance. so 1/4 inch shank bits with bearing. just opened it a month ago for a jewelry box project for my Barber.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/51041/DE3C88A4-84B2-4C79-A6CC-3C9572C6D965.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1645907556)
Frank and my daughter Monique
I actually had my first real job and started buying tools when I was 14. So it has taken me over 50 years to buy all the tools I have. I started out routing with steel cutters with no ball bearings on the pilot and a 24000 rpm Craftsman router. It would take forever to sand off the burning. I have had several other routers that did not survive and many dull bits that were tossed.
I listed a few of my most used bits above but your style of woodworking will determine the bits that will best fit your needs. You will be limited by the capacity of the compact router to start. I dedicate some routers to specific tasks. Like one Dewalt is usually set up on my Beall threading jig, one Dewalt fit on my tablesaw insert with a 1/8 round over to break edges quickly off the saw. I set up 2 routers with bits when using my leigh dovetail jig so I don't have to do multiple set ups. My cabinet door and tongue & groove bits need the big router and the router table to use. Getting the most use from your router will require jigs and fixtures you will need to build. I have no idea if you will be building frames, cabinets, furniture, flooring, or anything else or your style. That will set the requirements of the bits you need. I have found duplicating old moldings can take several different bits to have a close copy.
A good place to start would be order a free MLCS catalog and browse through what's available and the profiles of each bit to determine what will fit your style and capabilities. Also find some good books about getting started safely with routing.
MLCS bits are good for a couple hundred feet of cuts and are affordable but if you need a couple miles of cuts Amana, Whiteside,& Bosch are better choices. You may want to see if any bits come with the router first.
Thank you 21, appreciate it.
Yes, a collection of routers like yours is a journey, not a destination.
I need to build an open face cabinet for a ranch stereo and the top will hold so taxidermy work. I also want to make a variety of diff picture frames. Another project is a small half rounded table that will fit btw 2 wall trim boards. As probably w everyone, once you start working w a diff wood working tool, you note new applications you can do and expand those project types w diff bits and the integration of your other power tools.
Finally, if there's any universally applicable jigs for router work, knowing what those are, what they are used for and directions on how to make them, that would be a great way to get started. I know I will eventually buy a 1/2" shank router w a lot more power and r-table, but is there a plan/jig for making a router table that can fit/work on an existing table saw table? That would be great!
Thanks again,
tstex
Here's the wood I'm going to use for these projects that I had milled from a tree i harvested off the ranch.
It seems my pic files will not upload bc they are too large, sorry
"Round-over bit, 1/4 & 1/8 for varying projects to smooth out edges
Rabbet bit, 1/2" w bearing kit
Ogee Roman, for picture frames
Chamfer bit 45 degree. Is there a preferred height or size?
Slot bit - is 1/8 or 1/4 more of a standard, or both?
Flush Trim Bit (bearing on the bottom)"
With a compact router, you're not going to be routing 1/2" rabbet well, maybe not the 1/4 slot either. Flush trim bit you will be limited to probably a 1/4" bit at maybe 3/4" of material thickness. A compact router is good for quick roundovers and smaller jobs because it is easy to move around itself. When removing more material though, not only does the power of a larger router help, but also the weight of the router. For example, when pushing the compact router to remove more material, it will push back and you will have to provide a more rigid support for the tool, while a heavier router will help with that. Conversely, when doing a quick 1/8" roundover, which I do a lot, a large router would be like using a sledge hammer to drive a finish nail. That may be a bit exaggerated, but point is, you'll have less feel for what you are doing , and you'll have to move slower be more careful.
In conclusion, each size router has it's use. Also keep in mind that a larger router will typically be able to mount into a router table. This is why many people buy more than one. They don't want to have to dismount it from the router table to use it freehand.
thanks Brad...that's very good information re assessing what's realistic w a smaller finishing router and the 1/2" meat & potatoes router. I know the 1/2" 120V 2.7HP tool is on the horizon.....thanks again
Someone already mentioned the 2.25 hp routers. That's an excellent starting point. Medium weight, big enough for many things, not too big either. It's the Goldielocks size router. Most come with both a fixed base and a plunge base plus both 1/4" and 1/2" collets. I like the Makita version, but nothing wrong with the other major brands.
Like a lot of things, you'll know much more about your needs and wants once you start using the tool. Many books and articles out thereabout jigs and fixtures- too many really. Puck up a book or read some articles and get your router table going. Featherboards, chip collection are good first steps too. It's a long journey but a good one.
Good luck with the picture frames. That's its own special category and takes some experience to get efficient and accurate.
The advice given and bit brands and choices is spot on. Buying bits as the need arisesis the best way, although there may be a small kit that comes close to your initial needs may be out there somewhere.
Routers and bits are a long journey. 21incher has the right thing going with his collection, but not all of us need that large of a collection. Or do we?? ???
Quote from: tstex on February 28, 2022, 09:19:57 AM
Here's the wood I'm going to use for these projects that I had milled from a tree i harvested off the ranch.
It seems my pic files will not upload bc they are too large, sorry
Resend the photo to yourself and select a smaller size. Then use that to upload.
Or use one of the many apps/programs (I use Paint) to resize your photo.
Hope that helps.
Thanks bt, great info...will try resizing been there....
Ok Guys. I ordered an MLCS set of 15 bits in 1/4". I have plenty of scrap wood I will test and practice.
In the meantime, I value your experience on getting a 120V 1/2" router. Might as well start doing my research so whatever make & models that are reliable. I would rather spend a little more than less bc no one ever says their "tool is too powerful", so 2.5HP + should be a good starting point, also w variable speed too. Then I can start buying solid carbide 1/2" bits on the cuts that fit my applications
Thank you very much,
tstex
I see your list of tools does not include a jointer and one of the requirements for any project is to start with a flat surface and then plane the other side parallel. With rough cut air dried wood you definitely need a way to flatten a board. One good jig to start with after buying a larger router is a flattening sled. there are many different designs that all do the same thing so you should research and find a design that is within your current capabilities and size it to the lumber you plan on starting with.
A router set that includes 2 bases ( fixed and plunge ) is usually the best value and any of the major brands are usually reliable. I will tell you Harbor Freight routers are junk and after having one go up in smoke. I definitely would not recommend the off Chinese brands.
Like I posted before I have found a couple routing books by Patrick Spielman to be useful if you can find old copies.
Routers are like clamps, can never have enough. I have a couple bits from high school as well - nearly 50 years old now and still cutting. I have a bit different philosophy on bit purchasing.
I agree that you should buy good quality bits for anything you'll be using regularly and I have spent more money on bits than I care to remember. But I also have a very large set of cheap Grizzly Chinese bits I use all the time for 2 purposes.... 1.) to test patterns when determining exactly how I wish to finish something. Nothing worse than spending big bucks on a bit and then finding out its not really what you wanted and 2.) For that one-off job you'll probably never revisit. Why spend money on a bit that will last thousands of running feet when I am only running 10. As a hobbyist, I would say that my usage is split about 75-25 on bits I will use regularly and bits I will use once or twice and done. I'll keep the money for that 25% in my pocket for something else I might need or want. If I remember correctly, the whole Grizzly set didn't cost more than 2 or 3 good bits.
Quote from: 21incher on February 28, 2022, 03:33:49 PMA router set that includes 2 bases ( fixed and plunge ) is usually the best value and any of the major brands are usually reliable.
What he said. And most of these are 2-1/4 hp. As several have already posted this is the perfect size. Not to heavy or bulky for hand held work, but still big enough for a router table. Sure, you won't be able to take as big of bite or run as fast as the 3 hp but the time savings is small, especially on one off work. Production is a different story, but that really puts you into a shaper.
Router tables can be as simple as a board with a hole in it clamped to your work bench. Cheap and doesn't take up much floor space. For a lot of work no fence is required. Use a bit with a bearing for those round overs and the like.