This is my version of a log arch. The frame is a recycled loader frame from an 8N Ford. Flipped the frame upside down, welded on a couple of stub axles and a tongue. The 1.5 ton chain fall does a great job of lifting one end so I can drag a log instead of snowplowing with it. It does not straddle the log like the commercial jobs, but it works well for me. Lets me drag out a pretty good sized log with a small tractor. (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/12289/wood8.jpg)
Cool! I am building one now, hope to show pics soon.
Moosehunter
Great job building bioguy ! 8)
Nice arch bioguy. Lets see some more pics. We like pics. ;D :D :D
Ditto on the others, a logging arch is on by project list as well. I've got a friend's that I can borrow, but if I'm not careful I may end up buying it to save time. :-[
Captain
That`s an interesting arch Bioguy. I have need for means of getting some nice veneer logs out of an area where I can`t disturb the forest floor so I`m planning on building one also. There aren`t any local horse loggers that I`m aware of so this seems like my next best choice.
How do those narrow tires fare in the bush? Do you have any flotation issues? I`m also wondering how you get the log end up into the arch, do you detach the arch from the tractor while loading the log and fulcrum the log up, or just winch the log up into it?
Thanks, Russ
Russ - I have not had any flotation problems with it yet, and I have used it in some soft spots. If my tractor will go through a spot, so will the arch and log. If its too soggy I either wait until it is dry (or frozen) or go at the log from a different direction. The arch is very light and it is balanced well (this is more by accident than by design. I got lucky and everything went together well.) One guy can easily push it around, even in the woods. I was pleasantly surprised.
I plan to replace the clevis with a ball hitch. As is, it is tough to back up, so I unhook and wheel it into position. I re-hook to the tractor, and either put a chain around the log or use a skidding tong - both work well. I hoist the log with arch attached to the tractor - puts a little flex in the tongue but that chain fall lifts it right up.
Plan to post some more pictures in my album this weekend.
Dave
My latest ...
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10030/arch.JPG)
I like that one Kevin. Looks like you could scale it a little bigger and after lowering the handle with a log somewhat balanced hitch it to a drawbar and trailer it to wherever you needed. Good job.
That will take a twenty inch log between the wheels so it should take something up to a 30incher with the butt out the back.
Anything bigger and I'll take the mill to the log. ;D
I'm considering a hitch for the Argo but it will come off the wheel mounts and can be removed.
The arch is built high so I can drop a log right into the trailer or back of the truck and pull it ahead on rollers.
I made one 20 plus years ago at the cost then of about $60.00. It will handle one log around 36" in diameter or two 18" diameter logs at once. Several times I have moved 3 smaller diameter logs at one time.
I will try to take some pictures this weekend. I find mine very useful. I did a clearing jog where the home owner wanted about 30 white pines in a grove cut down about 15 miles from home. I used the arch to transport the larger logs home, about 6 trips taking a few logs at a time. As long as it was loaded it towed very well behind the pick-up.
Randy
Hi Bioguy,
Thanks for the feedback. I can see that Kevin also works with thin wheels and tires.
My original "wild idea" told me that I need something like implement tires for flotation. Now that RSteiner has planted the idea of longer range over the road transport with the arch, I`m reconsidering using normal size, speed rated tires. I am a bit worried about the sidewalls though, maybe an 8 or 10 ply tire would be a good idea.
I also like Kevins idea of making the arch tall enough to offload onto a trailer. Common sense but pretty slick.
Russ
I built a hand-pull arch using wheel barrow wheels.
First day of use I got a gouge in the sidewall from a sharp stick.
Would this be a common problem with "normal" tires? Do you get flats very often?
theres wheelbarrow tires out now that are puncture proof
I used the front spindles off an American Motors car the old style that had the brake rotor as part of the hub. Many rotors back then wore out but the bearings were still in great shape. All that had to be done was a little hammering around the rotor and it came right off leaving a nice hub.
The spindle part I bolted to a plate that is welded to the frame so I can change it should that be necessary. The rims are 15" and the tires are some where in the 225-70/15 range. I have never had enough weight on the arch so that the standard passenge car tire sidewalls were a problem. I have driven over many objects in the woods without a puncture or tear, still have to original tires from 20 years ago.
I have a boat winch mounted on the rear that will pull a log to the arch if I can't back over it and then lift it up to chain the whole thing off the ground.
Randy
Kevin - It looks like the pipe can slide through the arch to change the fulcrum point? Is that true? Does the T-handle on the end also telescope into the pipe to extend? Do you just use it to move logs by hand or do you also hook it up to a vehicle? Sorry for all the questions but it looks like a really handy tool. Thanks, Ray
nice fencepost, kevin.
im working on a fencepost mover like that myself, about that size.
That fencepost is a wind thrown cedar twelve feet long and 11" at the large end.
I can easily move it with one hand using the arch.
The plans are in the works to make a separate hitch (due to the height) to tow behind the argo, one that can be removed.
It is primarily used to remove logs from back yards.
The handle doesn't telescope, there's no need for more leverage but it breaks down for transporting .
As it is you can put it in the back of a pick up truck.
The front chain slides all the way back to accommodate shorter logs.