I have a friend that just bought a Ford 9N tractor. Starts great, idles fine, etc, etc. The only issue is that it kills when you let out the clutch. If you really work at it by getting it to rock a little, you can get it to eventually drive, but it won't be usable the way it is. For what it's worth, the previous owner had just had the ignition gone through. New distributor cap, plugs, wires and points. Maybe something up with that? Any suggestions will be appreciated.
So what if you choke it when you put a load on it? If you can make it go this way it is a fuel problem most likely the carb, or sediment bowl. I have seen this with a bad ignition switch. Had a 4 cyl. ford on an edger for years that would bog down when the wood hit the saws. Tried everything or so I thought. When I sold it I tried even harder to fix this and did, it was the ballast resister, I thought these where either good or bad.
From the description and work done, I'd check the point gap. Its easy to have it close as you tighten it.
The distributor shaft in those tractors are known for wearing out. Check side to side play on shaft as this will not allow points to be set properly if worn. Also check to see that the springs are allowing for spark advance. Did you check timing? Do a compression check also.
Getting any backfire or just stalling under load? Check the governor linkage, make sure it is free and working.
My 601 is hard on spark plugs or maybe I had a bad batch of them. New plugs, coil, resistor, cap, wires, etc., still backfired. Changed plug brand and runs good.
Gotta ask- can you roll it easily on pavement? Just wondering it you might have something binding that the engine is having a difficult time overcoming.
Is this the original 6v or modified to 12 v system?
Still 6v.
Thanks for the suggestions. We will check these things.
You might try getting a can of carb cleaner and spraying it on things looking for an air leak at the manifold, carb base and any other hoses. Also see if the accelerator pump is working on the carb.
Also, no backfiring. It does roll freely when the clutch is pushed in.
OK. The 6 v and 12 v ballast resistors are different i think. I do not believe that would be your issue as the resistor is primarily designed to make the points last longer.
The carb is an updraft, I do not believe it has an accelerator pump. It does have an adjustable metering needle so make sure it is not too lean.
A compression check would definitely be in order at this point.
I know that the previous owner had been using it with no issues until he had issues with the gas tank. He had the fuel tank replaced and the the ignition work done at the same time. After that his health declined so he didn't use it after he got it back. For that reason I'm thinking it could be something having to do with the work that was done. On the other hand, I m told the guy that worked on it is very reputable and he wouldn't have delivered it back working the way it does. He had to drive it up ramps to put it on a trailer and deliver it back so he certainly would have noticed the issue then. Maybe sticky governor from sitting?
How long was it sitting and not being run?
All good points mentioned above, wondering if maybe the carburetor is in need of a good cleaning?
Quote from: fluidpowerpro on April 26, 2022, 09:15:27 PM
I know that the previous owner had been using it with no issues until he had issues with the gas tank. He had the fuel tank replaced and the the ignition work done at the same time. After that his health declined so he didn't use it after he got it back. For that reason I'm thinking it could be something having to do with the work that was done. On the other hand, I m told the guy that worked on it is very reputable and he wouldn't have delivered it back working the way it does. He had to drive it up ramps to put it on a trailer and deliver it back so he certainly would have noticed the issue then. Maybe sticky governor from sitting?
Get that "guy" that worked on it to look at it again. Could save your friend a lot of frustration trying to locate the problem. But sounds like a fuel problem.
When it finally goes, does it rev up and are you able to shift?
One thought is the shifter is broke and you are not starting out in first?
Sounds more like a transmission issue than engine, or maybe a sticky brake
Ballast resistor knocks down 12 v to 6 v, all points are 6 v system so 6v does not have said ballast resister. Carb would not have accelerator pump. Just a little dirt or corrosion in the right place will cause hesitation. Tight governor rod connection. There is no e.c.m. Whatever it is is simple and cheap.
Sounds like the main jet in the carb, had my farmall cub doing basically the same thing until I pulled the carb and cleaned the jets good.
Well you can test the trans by jacking it up so the back wheels are off the ground and working all the gears.
Now that you told us about the fuel tank issue, I would definitely concentrate on confirming the entire fuel system is clean and functioning. It does sound like something is clogged up in the carb.
Carb/governor problem. Using the choke as the clutch is let out will be a good indicator.
There are cheap aftermarket carbs available for these engines and the aftermarket carbs can have issues with the distance between mounting holes. That could lead to an air leak if the original carb has been replaced.
I had a condenser problem with the 601. The TSC parts kits are not reliable.
First, thank you everyone for the suggestions. I did try leaving the choke on while letting the clutch out and that worked. Because I could now drive it, I drove about 1/4 mile and then found it then no longer needed the choke. I now feel kind of stupid. Turns out it's just cold blooded. He bought it this winter and we had never really run it long enough to get it warmed up. Thanks again.
Well ok, Fluid power, some tractors where like that. EFI 's got everybody spoiled.
Just the same, put some fuel system cleaner in there.
Im with the other guys ,you got carb trouble.
I have a gas burner farmall that is very cold blooded. It will start no problem, at any temperature that I care to be on a tractor, but it as absolutely will not move in colder weather until it warms up a few minutes. Dad has told me that its been that way since my grandpa bought new in 63.