I put this thread under milling because it is mostly sawyers that make I beam saw horses for their own use and sell a few sometimes. Guys like @WV Sawmiller (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=28064) and @Bruno of NH (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=26349) . I am wondering if you guys would mind sharing what you charge for these?
I know we had a thread, or a side track on a thread, about this around 2 years ago, but I just can't find it with all my search attempts. If anyone knows the thread I mean, a pointer to that would of course help.
I made a raised bed today I will finish in the morning with a garden cloth liner and I will put it our on the front lawn and see if it draws the $75.00 I am asking. I have a pair of horses I can put out also, but I can't seem to hone in on a price. Some advice would help guide me. I am thinking around $40/ea or $75/pr but that strikes me as a bit high. I figure $20. in cost I have into each one, plus my time.
Thanks folks.
Don't underestimate the value of your time. How much time do you have into them and what's your time worth using a reasonable salary figure (50-70K/year)? Don't forget to add profit after you got the other costs figured out.
Not much, probably take me 10 minutes to cut the parts and 10 or 15 minutes to assemble each one. If there was a real demand, I cut set up to do that a whole lot faster.
Edit to add: I don't think I can base these on an expected income amount and the profit will be fine. These are made mostly from overrun material on the mill, extras, maybe some stuff with a bit too much wane. It's rainy day fill in work and to my mind, it's just some extra cash. The garden box I made today was entirely from stuff sitting around the shop and served as a way to clean out some material.
What will be the cost figured in for purple paint?
We sell raised garden boxes as a kit, parts, screws, instructions sheet. 27 bd ft per box and 1.50 a bd ft + 20 mins to saw, assemble and sell. We use 6" pine for the body ripped to 3" for the legs all done on the mill as a side from sawing 8+10" B+B siding. The student saws the boards to length and puts the kits together, weighs the screws, shrink wraps. We charge 75$ for the kit.
Figure a price for the lumber and go from there.
I always want to make a good wage for what I do, otherwise you might as well go fishing or golfing
I get $40 each or $75 for the pair
I make them from lumber seconds
We cut out the bad lumber as they take mostly short pieces.
Folks don't question the cost when they see my add with all the lumber stacked on them.
I always put at the end of my adds
Your not finding this quality at the cheapo depot.
Folks get a kick out of it.
We don't need to build stuff or do firewood as I'm so busy Sawing now.
But when I was contacting, I learned not to put my eggs in one basket.
What size is the box? 2x4' roughly? I made mine 18" x 36" just to test the concept. Obviously I would make whatever a customer might want. I should have thought to rip gown to 3" for the legs, but the 6" works fine, just looks a bit bulky to me for that box size. I didn't get any good photos, but we all know what these look like:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/52103/IMG_20220513_123113150.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1652487700)
A few minutes ago I went out and stapled in some garden cloth to keep the dirt in. All rough milled, no planeing.
The pricing is a bit regional also. So I figured I would start at $75. and see what happens. At that price, it's fair 'rainy weather work' and I can knock them out. I look at it as cash in the pocket for easy work on a poor day. 2 years ago I put out a mess of garden stakes in all lengths, but no takers. I did sell them, but for other uses and through other outlets. It did generate a few queries that also didn't amount to anything except letting the neighbors know I make wood and wood products. They come by when they need 'a board'.
Beenthere, as you know, I don't do purple paint. Not sure where you got that, but it's fake news. In fact I hate painting. So if they want them painted, it's 40% more, at least. ;D
Bruno, thanks for weighing in, that's why I tagged you. You have done very well with this stuff and I think you are the master at it. I know it's filler work for you, but for me it can be just a tiny bit more than that. Not a lot, but a little. I think I will go with your pricing and see what happens.
I offer to sell my sawhorses for $25 each. I have not sold any yet. I usually make them from mostly salvage lumber from run out 2X4s and such.
I sell my planters for $55 each. I also figure 27 bf in each and use $2/bf as a planning figure. The floor is typically low grade wood I can't sell or cut off pieces. I use mostly 2" galvanized nails and about a dozen 3" deck type screws. I use 1X4 for one side of the legs and rip a 1X6 to make 1X3's for the other side so it looks like 4" wide from either direction.
I do not paint mine. ;)
Howard, I figure 17BF of lumber in a sawhorse, so I think you may be low there. BUT, it's a regional thing. HD had some decent wood horses on display a few months back and they were asking a respectable price, but more than what Bruno or I would charge.
You put more detail in on your boxes than I did on this first one, but if they sell I will step it up. I was thinking on building a stand for my chop (miter) saw with long tables on each end. It would allow me to hack up all the pieces in just a couple of minutes for any of these quick build jobs. Just set a stop and cut off what I need according to the list. zip-zip.
Tom,
Its a moot point on the sawhorses as they exceed the local market prices anyway. People prefer to buy the folding ones from HF it seems even though I am sure mine would hold much more weight. I had 264 bf of fresh cut poplar on a pair yesterday with no problem.
On the planters I am sure I could sell more if I marketed them more aggressively with local plant vendors but right now I am making more on portable milling and lumber sales so am not pushing them. I don't have the storage space to make and stock many so just knock out a few when someone orders them.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/Photo037_28Small29.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1348425948)
Folding feet !!!
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/DSCN0951_28Small29.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1348920065)
They are much better in pairs. :-X
Lynn, those look just like one of the models that HF sells from around $50./pr. No doubt the I beam ones we all make will hold up a lot better than that!
Folding or...collapsible?
I'm no expert on these fancy gizmos, but it looks like one side folds and the other collapses. :D
They neither fold nor collapse now. I straightened them up and welded them in place. 8)
Anyone have a picture of these I beam sawhorses? I left my son my last pair of sawhorses when he had to rip then stain a gazillion board feet of pine into battens to seal up the board and batten-less house he bought.
I need to make a new pair for home and always keen to look at new designs.
Many variations. Mine are about as simple as you can get.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/52103/IMG_20220514_124808050.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1652546928)
Height preferences vary and you can add diagonals as you like for super heavy weights, but I have found I don't need them.
I have also altered them into other uses. I have a short one here built up as a log drilling stand, then the logs roll up onto rails supported by another pair for inoculation and the horse at the far end has a shelf screwed to the lower 'I-beam flange' that holds labeling supplies. This is an in-work photo and doesn't show the completed version.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/52103/IMG_20220115_153220585.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1642297130)
Good thing you asked for that photo when you did. 5 minutes after I made that last post a neighbor pulled up and bought the pair. :D ;D
Now I've sold as many as Howard. ;D
I cut both ends of legs at a 10° miter and a 10° bevel for stability, they nock into the 2x6" I-beam frame perfectly:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/58892/IMG_3046_-_Copy.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1652551777)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/58892/IMG_3047_-_Copy.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1652551776)
Also, use heavy-duty Tork-type screws to fasten it together!
Quote from: Lasershark on May 14, 2022, 02:13:05 PM
I cut both ends of legs at a 10° miter and a 10° bevel for stability, they nock into the 2x6" I-beam frame perfectly:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/58892/IMG_3046_-_Copy.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1652551777)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/58892/IMG_3047_-_Copy.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1652551776)
Also, use heavy-duty Tork-type screws to fasten it together!
I like the splayed legs
I'm going to try that.
I have been using a 2x8 top on the latest ones built for the mill
I like the splayed legs too, but I think the straight legs are better for heavy loads and general use, also cheap and quick to make for sale.
Of course, what one builds for oneself is a different matter. I do like the way yours are, and for a dedicated purpose they work extremely well, that is, you know the load.
I have/want to make a stand for my miter saw and I was thinking on a modified design for a short stand. Now I am looking at your lathe bench and have revised my plans. :D ;D I want to build this stand in 3 pieces because of limited floor space. The stand for the saw which will live in the shop near a post, the infeed table of about 8' and the outfeed table of 4-5 feet. The two tables will have some kind of 'lift off' hook to tie the to the stand, but can easily be removed and stored outside when not doing that sort of work. I am trying to improve workflow and being able to back the truck up after a day at the mill and slide lumber in the shop before dinner has been my norm. But then, cutting that lumber into all the pieces for builds has been sloppy. Sometimes it gets moved upstairs to the TS or RAS for cutting, and then it comes back down for building. Sometimes I sue the miter saw right on the shop floor. Lots of bending and tripping over stuff. Gotta fix that and knock this stuff out faster. After that, I need an assembly bench, hopefully solid, but on wheels.
Thanks for the idea.
Hay wagons make great portable work tables.
I made a pair of these horses over the winter for a project and sure do appreciate how functional they are. And tough!
Tom,
FWIW you have now sold 2 more than me. :D I sometimes make them a foot or so tall out of scrap 2X4 or 2X6 cut-offs and use them to stack mantles and lumber stacks on. Of course mine have stretchers out of scrap 1X3 or 1X4 to reinforce them and keep them from spreading.
I like to make mine 4' long and with 3' legs.
My contention, Tom, is- you sold the whole lot in one day, right? They were too cheap!
Also, thanks for mentioning a miter saw table, I need to do something like that myself. Currently, my miter saw is sitting on my main bench and while it usually isn't in the way it's not conducive to long pieces at all, though neither is my shop.
You guys and all your builds are sweet, so many neat ideas and solutions!
If a miter stand may have to go to other places, a store bought one may be the best with aluminum and several configurations. I have two dewalt saws and stands, but not cheap. look for used.
my saw horses are 2x6 beam and legs. i have plywood for a stretcher on the ends. i like to be able to stack/nest them so the legs and stretchers have to be on the end of the beam. I glued and screwed them, and eventually painted them so they would tolerate being outside. they were purpose built to work on my O'Day 18 foot daysailer II sailboat when I lived in Albany, NY. horses were 7 feet long. 30.5 inches tall. If they are used on soft ground, the stretchers are less important, than on concrete. so you could advertise custom length and height. I used a come along under my car port at the twin oak apartments their. i also used to split wood with a maul in the front yard, and burned a bit of wood in the fireplace.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/57881/0930B6FA-9222-4A9B-AB3D-A7FBFCB565E8.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1652889852)
This is my miter saw bench, I set it on saw horses. I like it better than the store-bought ones. It gives me a place to put pieces so I can make multiple cuts at while I'm at the saw. I trim houses so this is what works best for me. This one is made out of cedar , so it's pretty light.
I like it. pretty cheap for a guy with a sawmill, OGH.
I like that trimguy and it's something like what I have in mind. I was thinking separate indeed and outfeed tables joined to the saw stand in the center. This would make it flexible in use and setup.
When I worked as a company carpenter in the last century I had an RAS with a 16' infeed table and a 12' outfeed withe a ales set to the saw blade on both ends. We bought 20' packs of pallet wood. The system was fast with those scales. For more than a few pieces I would clamp a stop on the mark and go like made. I would whack out pallets full of cut lengths for hours before I started building crate sides on the nailing table. So I'd like to replicate that.
On yours, do you set your saw in the center of that table?
I assume the ends are even with the chop/miter saw table top? could cut a handle in the ends but prob. not needed.
OGH, if you are using nice wood, you could also go for a nicer base and a screw on sacrificial top piece and sell for more, like furniture grade. If you want to make them more complex with glue exc.
I like the miter saw stand.
Yes, I set the saw in the middle, I put 2 -3" screws in it to anchor it ( I use a sliding double compound saw) . This is to prevent it from accidentally get knocked off. It is 8' long and the ends are the same height of the saw bed. My trim comes 16' long ( finger jointed) and this works fine for it.
Yeah, that makes sense. These things are usually purpose built and for my purposes I am lopping off material for builds based on the cut list, so my cuts range from 4" long and on up to around 5'. So I'd like to have the material bed the same height as the saw bed and have a full length back stop to clamp a length stop to for repetitive cuts.
Doc, there might be some confusion here. I am not making these to sell. I am making one, for my own use and it's long overdue. I am putting blocks on the shop floor to bring boards on to leave with the saw and working on my knees to cut material. I seem to be doing more jobs that require these types of builds, so it is time that I took time to save some steps. I'd like to be able to set it up in the shop to the side of one bay, or move it outside and set it up for the warmer months. I got the saw for free after my son abandoned it in my shed for one with bells and whistles that was yellow and had a lot of aluminum farming attached. He said it was junk because the electric brake wasn't fast enough. :D AH these kids, they're afraid of radial arm saws and so many other things. :D ;D It works great for me. I don't even know what brand it is, never looked. It's green is all I know.
I jumped around a bit. >:( try to keep up! :D :D :D Yes, I think you need a miter saw base like demonstrated. cheap and light and built for what you need. I also thought if you are using hardwood, you could make some sawhorses with little added effort that are more put together and finished like a high end furniture type of saw horse. might only appeal to a few, and may not be a great idea although I have thought about it for myself, like a great walnut heavy work bench. I have bought some bora stuff I am happy with including a roller set and two saw horses that fold up, and pop open easily, and seem to be light but well engineered. see how I jump around! keep up! :) :) :)
Sorry Doc, I only have a year of college. I'll try to keep up. :D
:D :D :D
You have a PhD in the school of Hard knocks and many other areas of study, in my opinion. ;)
there are many things in life, that I would value your opinion over many others. so put that in your pipe and smoke it, Dr. Tom! :P :P :P ;) :)
I have a ell block with a 45* angle brace that I either screw or tack with the brad gun to the bed when I'm doing repetitive cuts. Try to use a lighter wood the weight will add up.
could sure add a clamp to the back board to make it infinitely variable as they say. or make a stop block clamp.
Like the miter saw bench a lot.Like OGH I end up using mine on the floor and my old knees pay a heavy price.Think I might use poplar to build one.Thanks for sharing the idea.
When I was building I made some really nice wooden fold up saw horses that stowed away in the van nicely.
They could handle lots of weight.
But I used them inside for finish work and to set my miter saw on.
Simple to build.
You need 4 hinges for each.
I would salvage them from jobs.
Seems like "Dr. Tom" could stick. I like it.
Well, inspired by the post, one of the first things I built with wood that I cut is a riff on these I beam sawhorses. I used all pine 2x6. I beveled the bottom flange of the I beam. The top is 42" long and the overall height is about 32.5" which I think would be good for some tasks but might be too high for working on timber frame joinery. Joints are glued and screwed.
Seems pretty sturdy, and my Stanley plastic sawhorses will appreciate being relieved of slab-holding duty. Thanks for the idea.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/32289/IMG_4521.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1653430145)
Those are nice horses, but to give credit, it is Bruno who brought these to my attention a year or two ago. I love mine any they always have something on them. I need to make two more pairs to use by the edger when we are running boards now.
I have thought of making these with 2x6's, and if I ever wind up with some 2x6's laying around I will use those for the top boards. BUT, there are some subtleties with regard to that bottom board on the I beam as well as the center board which has to do with how far it will make the legs splay out. I note that with that nice detail of angling the edges you have brought the spread of those legs in quite a bit, maybe 2 inches. Just saying, if that matters, you want to look at that. A 2x4 for the center board brings the bottom board up higher and the legs spread farther. This is not a criticism, just an observation.
I will say these things are handy as heck and you I never seem to have enough of them. I would stick another pair out on the front lawn, but I only have two pair around the shop and don't want to loose them. I need to make some more 2x4's. ;D
My design was all with 10* angles.
Here is a screenshot of the layout I did.
2x6 on the top flange, 2x6 web,and started off with a 2x6 on the bottom flange, beveled down to about 4 1/8 at the top and a little proud of 4¾ at the bottom.
Certainly a lot more steps in terms of cutting than some of the other approaches. Might not make sense to go to that length if trying to sell for a reasonable price just for the extra time it takes to make it.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/32289/Capture.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1653433196)
Ah well then in theory you are pretty close to having a 2x4 on the bottom flange but having the longer (6") center section still drops that splay at the ground level. These are certainly a utilitarian item and whatever works for you is perfect.
I mostly make these for use, but have an extra pair sometimes and can sell them off. Bu they are so handy that they rarely sit empty.
I have been making these for years. (Of course I add a stretcher on the ends and sides for extra stability but that is another issue previously discussed. :D) I like the idea of the 2X6 top and think the next ones I make I'll use a horizontal 2X4 on bottom, a vertical 2X4 in the center, then a horizontal 2X6 on top. That should really be the cat's meow. (BTW the center 2X4 can be spliced shorts if you like.)
As I mentioned I use my 12"-16" cut off 2X4 or 2X6 as legs to make stacking frames for lumber. I may try to 10* angle cut on the bottom piece too as that looks like a lot tighter fit.
I needed to stain my B&B siding. I built 4 using full size 1x4 pine as that is what I have lots of. They work perfect.
Next year I will sell some as kits along with my garden boxes. 1x4 is a byproduct of sawing 1x10 B&B siding.
I can't recall how many I beam sawhorses I've built in the last 4 years. Anytime I need a set a different height or length, I'll build a set. Some of my friends have seen them and asked if I would build them a set, I usually say no but you can have that set.
If I need to paint a room, I'll make three or four short ones and lay walk boards on top so I can reach the ceiling, above windows and doors etc. If I need to do gutter work, I build or use a taller set. Some I build with legs splayed further out for stability and some I set the legs a few inches inside of the ends to prevent tripping on the bottom of the legs.
The variations are limited only by lack of need or lack of creativity. I even built one for a customer to haul some long beams on his truck.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/48503/56494C6B-C7B4-4168-BDCD-A54D0F59087F.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1584817565)
One customer wanted a live edge bar built with I beam sawhorse legs but I don't have photos of it. It was plenty sturdy as long as the sawhorse was firmly attached to the bottom side of the bar.
I built one of the 2'x4'x32"H Garden Boxes, but I must have done something wrong. I used (Net) 27.56 Bd Ft. I've attached my Build Sheet and a pic, for your scrutiny.
I'm using this specimen to verify the use of my Red Pine and the sturdiness, so it's not selling (my Wife wants another one over twice as long, but shallower- for Strawberries....). I'm not Painting it- purple or any color. The Dog is also not for Sale.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/47942/IMG_2558.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1653652010)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/47942/IMG_2556.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1653651145)
I lined it with Black Plastic, perffed the bottom for drainage- then filled it with Pit sand on the bottom, and Horse Manure Compost on the top....
Steve
My "gardenbox" is 32' long by 8' wide and uses oak sawed in lengths my wife and I could carry over from FEL forks to our spot across the top of our front yard, which isn't a yard really, it's a slope into the woods. I lap jointed the 3" thick oak and screwed together using Olylog screws. The chipmunks love it! :D
I've built several designs of sawhorses over the years but last year I bought a plastic set of sawhorse gizmos that are supposed to be super strong using 2x4's only. So far they have lived up to the hype on the pkg.. I have another steel set that fold & very light, so useful for that reason at times.
Some years ago after collecting a bunch of solid steel wheels of various types, I built a lot of rustic, small, oak wheelbarrows for use as flower planters. They sell well but wheels can be hard to find. Use short off cuts of low grade oak.
Sawhorses anyone?
I don't think anyone has yet pointed out that the "splayed" design is stackable when not in use:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/58892/57D04D6F-9019-4211-A02B-AE5F92FBA8B2.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1653663383)
Many years ago, I found a sawhorse design in a book. I have made lots of them.
The do not use 2" stock only 1" boards.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10095/SimpleSawhorse-s.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1477629590)
I was going to sell them at a local hardware store. Someone asked me if I had my insurance policy all paid up. I asked why? They said if the sawhorse fails you could be sued.
I never sold any to any store because of that.
I have made them like this and then added another 2x6 on top of the top cap piece of 1by to make them a little taller and to allow the skill saw to cut into the 2by and not damage the top cap piece.
We use a lot of these when timber framing.
I have also done a YouTube video showing how to put them together, which includes the dimensions.
I know this design is not a true "I" beam design, but it works for me and the do nest, stack up nice.
Jim Rogers
Some 17 years ago Bibbyman and Pro Sawyer Mary came up with plans for extra heavy duty sawhorses. Gilman, another member made a pdf of the plans and posted. Plans and pictures can be found here.
Handy things around the mill in Sawmills and Milling (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?topic=258.140)
Pictures of the set I made are the last post on that page. Later I made a set out of walnut just for bragging rights....can't find those pictures. They are still in use, but the feet have started to rot.
Jim Rogers
Your design looks strong as well as light weight. Good combination.
Larry, thanks for that referred post. you sent me down a 45 minute rabbit hole but it was fun and informative!
X2 on Jim's horses. The work well and easy to make out of cull 1x6 material. There's a video of him making one on his utube channel as well. I've made several pair in both horse and pony size. Sturdy and quick.
The i beam design is a good classic design as well and and easy to throw together on a jobsite. Good to have both designs in your brainbox. Jim's design holds up better over time.
Larry I made 2 sets of those from Mary and Bibbyman over 12 years ago. They died last year.
They were a great help around the sawmill. The perfect height to stack lumber on. I plan on building some more this year.
QuoteLarry I made 2 sets of those from Mary and Bibbyman over 12 years ago. They died last year.
Not Mary and Bibbyman... I don't think.
I like having some lightweight saw donkeys made out of 1x4's and 24" long legs for stacking wood on and to use when cutting. I have crushed far too many of them around the mill, especially when any end-to-end force is introduced (when bumping lumber stacked on them with the tractor forks).
For use around the mill, I made some out of 2" and 4" pipe. these are short horses as well. So far, these have proven durable.
For lightweight, foldable units, a couple of sticks of 3/4" and 1" conduit will enable very functional horses to be built in short order. The legs of one side weld to the 1" cross piece and the legs to the other are welded to the 3/4" cross piece which fits inside the 1" to act as a hinge. A short length of mule tape or other material serves to keep the legs separated at the right distance when in use. Just grab the top and they fold shut and are easy to store or transport. I'm sure my description is as clear as mud.
Yeah, a photo would probably help with that explanation a bit. :D
For stacking lumber off the mill I use these. I make them from the off cuts that cone in around 2x4 size and either missed the size mark or have unsaleable defects. Top plate, center plate, 4' long (same as forks), cross pieces are 12" long, feet are 4" square. This allows me to use up about every drop of wood laying around the saws in the shop. Very stable even on rough ground, easy to repair when they get whacked and the stack doesn't have far to fall if it gets really whacked. I use screws, not nails. It takes longer, but they are repairable. I think of them as semi-disposable and whenever I have some oddball 2x4's laying around I make a few up. I never seem to have enough.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/52103/IMG_20220124_144256814.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1643066361)
Quote from: beenthere on May 28, 2022, 01:34:01 PM
QuoteLarry I made 2 sets of those from Mary and Bibbyman over 12 years ago. They died last year.
Not Mary and Bibbyman... I don't think.
No ....The saw horses... :D
Tom, those low, little ones look super handy to have around. I'm currently rich in 2x4 and 2x6 sitting around (leftover barn materials mostly) and I don't have a vehicle that is good for transporting pallets to set logs on to keep them up off the ground. It seems like something like this would be perfect to make several handfuls of and rearrange my current piles to sit on them. I only have so may logs or big chunks of wood I really would like to keep from rotting so I'd think 10 of these would be sweet.
Trim guy posted a picture of his miter saw stand and I made one similar.I'll have to say I have had this saw since 1987,the year I built my house and this is the first time I have enjoyed using it.Funny how something so simple could work so good.Many thanks.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/68995/511C7981-E758-4EA8-BFCD-9DF638AFCD34.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1654650886)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/68995/A80365FD-A7F5-44B5-BF1F-E7B1EA538B70.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1654650786)
Looks good !
that looks like my Ryobi, fist miter saw i got in Albany NY at a builder's square.
I think that's the brand.Bought it in 1987 or 1988 to trim my house.Couldn't really afford a stand and always used it in the floor with scrap boards holding trim level with base.My knees were a lot younger then :laugh:
I bought mine in 1992. I loaned it to a great internal med doc friend of mine in 1998. He crossed his arms to make a cut and got a bad cut into his L forearm. He later died at age 49 just like his father of a MI.
I should probably upgrade being brake doesn't work anymore and now that I have a good stand I'll probably use it a lot more.Problem is I'm tight and it still cuts good so I probably won't :laugh:
I was curious about the I beam title... a guy built this style sawhorse that I worked for over 40 years ago, turned out to be a best friend even after I went out on my own. I've been building them the same way ever since for the residential building business. I've never ever seen anyone with this design in over 40 years until now. I'm kinda humbled and possibly disappointed. My friend never claimed that it was his design, but it's just a clever sawhorse, except when you use a pair or 3 every day as a big minor part of your trade.
Notice this design "splayes" the legs in both direction (like someone above) and in my opinion making almost a built in diagonal brace of the legs.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/25148/20220612_173710.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1655075394)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/25148/20220612_173659.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1655075379)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/25148/20220612_173807.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1655075354)
Right now all 3 pair are on duty at my building of my sawmill building.
I've set a full unit of 2x6x12' on this style in the past.
The gussets are nice touch.
I think it's fair to say that these are an 'industry standard' among us type folks. Nobody owns them and everybody has their own variations. On yours I note the gap between the vertical parts of beam. This is neat idea. It cuts the weight and reduces the material needed. I am wondering, what is the angle on your 'splay'? it looks like somewhere between 5 and 10°. I may try both of these things on my next set. The gussets are nice too, but that seems like work to me. :D
legs on the end will allow staking one on top of the other with the gussets.
Quote from: Old Greenhorn on June 12, 2022, 07:29:59 PM
I think it's fair to say that these are an 'industry standard' among us type folks. Nobody owns them and everybody has their own variations. On yours I note the gap between the vertical parts of beam. This is neat idea. It cuts the weight and reduces the material needed. I am wondering, what is the angle on your 'splay'? it looks like somewhere between 5 and 10°. I may try both of these things on my next set. The gussets are nice too, but that seems like work to me. :D
What I was shown all those years ago was the angle outward (legnthwise) was an inch and a half - the short side of a framing square across the 1x6 leg, top and bottom. We always used the builders store bought lumber 😄
I do like using a treated 5/4 deck board for the legs. We moved them around constantly in a home building "environment" and light but sturdy was important.
(0 to 1 1/2" across the 1x6)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/68995/9B1218A1-B16C-4387-BC4D-BB6F7D2872AF.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1655166438)
To hot to do much today so I made me another set of sawhorses mostly to try out new miter saw stand.Put open area in I beam like 711ac.Built out of poplar but I got fancy and added a 1" quarter sawn red oak board to top.
Never seen a sawhorse with a quartersawn oak top; next thing you know you will be making them out of walnut :D.
Some folks just have a better sense of style and class than the rest of us. ;D
I know one thing,you guys are a lot faster than me.Took me at least two hours to build them.Now I have so much time and materials in them I would probably want more for them than anybody would pay so I guess I'll just keep them for myself.That's the way it is for most of my projects :laugh:
That's about normal I think. I believe I spent 3 hours or so on my first set, figuring things out and thinking it through. I don't think very fast, just ask Howard or my wife. Now it takes me about 15 minutes to cut the parts and 15-20 minutes to assemble a pair.
My next pair will be slower again, because I am going to mess around with the 'splay' idea and the gap in the vertical on the I-Beam. Always learning and stealing ideas from others. It make it less boring. ;D
Actually OGH it probably took me more than 3 hours.I was just to embarrassed to admit it :laugh:
Going to try one of those planters next.Hate to think how long that will take.Like you said there is a lot of good ideas on here.That miter saw stand is a real jewel.
If it helps, Wlmedley, it would take me days to do a project like that. The first 3 hours would just be me cutting to the wrong dimensions or deciding I hate what I've done and tearing it all apart.