I have started having trouble with my moveable blade roller guide not contacting blade when making cuts. How can I solve this issue since there is no vertical adjustment on the roller guards?
I had this problem with my mill. The guides were on non adjustable solid brackets that are bolt to the main mill body. I removed them and made shims out of 1/16 sheet metal to go between the bracket and the body. Has been working great ever since.
I also had alot of flat spots on my guides which would cause them not to spin and had to put them on the lathe and take a few thou off to make them round again.
Thanks, I made some shims this evening and plan to that tomorrow.
Shimmed the guide down a little over an 1/8" and back to cutting. Just took the guy that I am trading about 20 white logs his deck boards for his low boy and half for his pintle hook trailer and picked up second load of logs and will get remaining logs when I drop the last of his lumber for pintle trailer. Feels good to provide lumber to my first customer! I definitely have to get myself a winch built to turn big logs! Some of logs I have sawed have been over 20" which requires assistance with skid tongs on forks of tractor get the job done. I think a winch could work much better.
Glad the shims worked for you :)
It really is a pain having a manual mill. When I get a really big log on the mill I usually just pick it up with the forks, back up a foot and tilt the forks down to either fully flip it or at least get it on enough of an angle that I can flip it the last little bit with a peavey..... I really can't wait to get my hydraulic mill, this fall can't come quick enough 8)
Hmmm sounds like you need a short chain and a magic hook 🪝.
Edit.....I went and looked through my pictures quick and don't have one of mine and I'm not by the mill right now hopefully some one will chime in with one. Best way to turn a big log on a mill with no turner other than Armstrong... :)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/2410/DSCN0283.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1267041249)
Did someone call my name? Mine are made from broken logging tongs.
I don't have a set of broken tongs but I think from looking at those I might could modify an old crowbar to work. Do you need to drive hook in with hammer to make sure holds?
Look carefully at the Magic Hook's arch which allows it to sorta wrap around the log, stay hooked, and allow you to pull on the eye. It digs deeper as pressure is applied. A cant hook/peavey hook works and Logrite sells just the hook. Logrite Hooks (https://logrite.com/Item/replacement-hooks) You would need to add a short chain or a pulling eye.
I sometime need to give it a rap with the hatchet poll (butt), and yes, I have a fairly sharp hatchet that serves many purposes at the sawmill.
Winch and an old cant hook hook...
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/18700/IMG_0130~1.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1655141764)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/18700/IMG_0128~0.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1655141761)
Quote from: TwentySeven3Bow on June 12, 2022, 01:01:15 PM
Shimmed the guide down a little over an 1/8" and back to cutting. Just took the guy that I am trading about 20 white logs his deck boards for his low boy and half for his pintle hook trailer and picked up second load of logs and will get remaining logs when I drop the last of his lumber for pintle trailer. Feels good to provide lumber to my first customer! I definitely have to get myself a winch built to turn big logs! Some of logs I have sawed have been over 20" which requires assistance with skid tongs on forks of tractor get the job done. I think a winch could work much better.
It's better to have at least 1/4" down pressure, it will saw straighter than 1/8". Steve
When I switched to rollers from ceramic guides Norwood recommended 1/8". I have since found that 1/4" works much better as @ladylake (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=633) has said.