I misread my timber frame plans and accidentally put two pegs too close together, how do I fix?
On my bent, the connection of a post to a girt, I put pegs at 1 1/2" from mortise bottom and 3" from bottom.
I should have done 1 1/2" from mortise bottom and then 3" above that peg (tenon is 6" high). So, my two pegs are only in the bottom half of the mortise, see photos. How do I repair this? Add a structural screw from outside at the correct upper peg location, or add another peg at correct location? Any ideas?
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/65848/IMG_0622~0.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1655652903)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/65848/IMG_0617.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1655652900)
Misprint, tenon is 8" tall not 6"
Added a mark on plans where there the errant peg is...
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/65848/IMG_0622~1.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1655653810)
It depends. What is your roof structure going to be like? Will there be a ridge beam supported by a king post? If yes, then that beam should not be under tension and the pegs don't do much.
If no supported ridge beam, then there will be considerable tension on the beam. Me, I would put a Simpson strap on the outside (assuming it will be covered) and that would be way stronger than any pegs.
For aesthetic reasons, you might want to put another peg towards the top (balanced in spacing like the bottom one?). I'm a little OCD so I'm wondering on the planned spacing you have drawn there. I'd want to make them 1.5" from the top and bottom - or even 2" leaving a 4" space between.
Yes, luckily there will be a king post and ridge beam. Thanks for the suggestion, I'll put a strap on the outside.
As for the peg spacing, I was just following, albeit not well, the plans that were provided to me when I took a timber framing class. All of the peg locations are marked in the plans. Thanks for the help.
Go carefully putting a peg high above a bearing seat. You want the beam bearing on the seat at the end of shrinkage rather than hanging from a high peg. Widely spaced pegs can encourage splitting in between them, that usually is a problem as spacing gets over about 5" so just general info. Minimum spacings are in the NDS but it takes a little to convert back and forth from steel connections.
Don, thanks for the info/heads up. Makes perfect sense now that I see it in writing.
Don P, are you talking about seasonal shrinkage or green to dry wood shrinkage? Also, I'm not sure that I understand the steel connector comment. Are you against putting a 3" strap above the pegs as a repair and prefer a high peg? This is well seasoned White Pine if that helps with movement thoughts. Thanks again, everyone, for the help.
Green to dry shrinkage, and general good practice. Yes to a steel strap, always worth considering when you can bury one. NO to a high peg. You'll find the same admonition in glulam specs where the beams are kiln dried.
This goes into the nds steel/wood conversion procedure;
Edge-Spacing-of-Pegs.pdf (http://file:///C:/Users/windy/Downloads/Edge-Spacing-of-Pegs.pdf)
Thank you so much for the clarification, knowledge and help! Much appreciated.
Here's more just general knowledge peg stuff and another good book for the bookshelf;
TFEC-1-2019-standard-&-commentary.pdf (http://file:///C:/Users/windy/Downloads/TFEC-1-2019-standard-&-commentary.pdf)
The commentary in the back has some good stuff pertaining to keeping the pegs low around C3.3.4
Thanks for the nice articles. So much to learn...