Hey, I need a tractor with a backhoe, or something, that can excavate and move dirt. I have a small pond I want to expand, water lines to bury deeper, and drainage ditches to clean and trails to level and maintain. I've got no money, but I have Mr. Truck and a mustang. Mr. Truck was never even started this year, the mustang is a dang hotrod that I do not understand. As much as that truck means to me, It is a waste, and it is sad. My interests are all n the U.P. now. Any suggestions on where to turn or what to do?
Jeff
There is a "for sale" forum here. 8) :snowball: :snowball:
A place to start.
;D :D :D
An older 2wd backhoe can be had relatively cheap.The terrain at your cabin looks manageable with 2wd.
Not such a good time of year to be selling the Mustang or Mr. Truck, but you never know.
I have good luck buying/selling on CL here in Vermont.
I stay away from ads that mention "awesome" or guys that wear there hats backwards.
Best of luck to you,your videos from the U.P. show how good it is for you.
It's where my heart is.
how about renting an excavator for a month
@Jeff (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=1) , Is Mr. Truck the flatbed that you use for the Door Prizes during the Pig Roast? Asking for a sentimental friend....
Steve
Yes.
1946 Dodge Truck - Google Photos (https://goo.gl/photos/YUnmJYtEujNVT1f48)
1946 Dodge Truck meets 1600 year Giant Redwood tree! - YouTube (https://youtu.be/2nFZDIxcg58)
Any video I have seen of your cabin the land looks wet a lot of the year so it would be a dry season job because old backhoes are heavy, the Case one we have is around 15000 lbs It likes to make ruts in anything soft at all.
If all you have is a couple of smaller jobs I would sell the mustang and hire an excavator, it would not take one very long to do the job and you will have money left over.
Like I said we have an older Case 580 and with 3 different people using it on 6 different properties which include ½ mile of driveway and 3 small parking lots and backup for snow removal I doubt it gets more than 25 hours a year and a lot of the work could be done with a tractor so as handy as it is like your old vehicles it sits around most of the time.
Now if you have lots of jobs over a while planned and you don't mind working on old gear maybe an old backhoe is for you. Some parts are reasonable others are worth more than the whole machine then you have a 15000 lb lawn ornament.
I watched you rebuild Mr Truck from the ground up and now watching the "rerun" on the video was quite interesting.
I wish you the best with whatever decision you make and whatever opportunity presents itself. thumbs-up
I wondered whatever happened to the Mustang... (guess you better slow your Mustang down). smiley_guitarist ;D
Depends how much work you have to do, a rental is good if you only have a day or two's work. After that the charges start adding up and it makes sense to buy your own machine. I owned a John Deere 310A backhoe for years and have rented different mini excavators for projects. I'm always looking what's for sale and hope to own my own mini-ex someday (have missed my backhoe since I sold it) if you got something specific in mind to look for let me know. smiley_thumbsup
Sell your house and move to the U.P. With all the $$ from the house, you can set yourself up just the way you want.
You explain that to Tammy who has decided she is exactly where she wants to be. If you can convince her to do that your a better man than I and I'll give you the mustang.
Id do it yesterday.
Jeff, you built Tammy a very nice comfortable home place and where she wants to be. You maybe did too well. Hope you find a mutual solution.
Thats exactly what the deal is. I suspect she might not think I still have it in me to one up this place.
Well you could tell her it's a Kansas wheat farm or the UP, I will cover for you when she calls. :D
Quote from: DDW_OR on December 06, 2022, 04:28:59 PM
how about renting an excavator for a month
Or trading some milling for a couple of days of hire for a decent machine?
A decent excavator and operator can do a LOT of work in a day. Not cheap per hour, but they can dig a lot of drain or make a decent pond in a day. Guy we used to hire had ~12 ton machine, that could be moved on a regular truck, so he could turn up, do a days work and take the machine home again. Heavier machines meant a low loader and extra cost added to a small job, but if you needed a heap of dirt moved, a 20 ton is the machine.
You said it! You love that place! Get that car and truck listed in hemmings ! Get your new toys! You will use that stuff all the time and be happy! The problem is not having your own is when you need it you won't have it. You've got a lot of work your going to be doing around there. Whatever you get it will pay for itself. It's always nice to have something and not depend on somebody else. Especially when you want to do it. And it will have a little value when or if you sell it.
QuoteWhatever you get it will pay for itself.
Regardless, it will pay you back in more than money: like fun, entertainment, accomplishment, and enjoyment.Speaking of which I realize how much fun and entertainment, along with knowledge, just being a small part of this Forestry Forum. With that in mind, I'm in for $100 to Jeff for his venture towards a working backhoe. Anyone else?
Ah, the continuing rocky road of life leads to a detour to Detour Village. :)
Quote from: beenthere on December 07, 2022, 12:46:30 AMI'm in for $100 to Jeff for his venture towards a working backhoe. Anyone else?
I'm in- same $$$
Steve
Money is in the mail plus a video my wife found called "How to run a backhoe" She won't be watching it.
When you live in one place a long time, it's hard to leave. When I lost Ann. Some said sell and get a smaller place. This was raw land when Ann and I got it. We built everything here 40 years ago. I thought about it, even called a Realtor. Found out I could get crazy $$$$ for it. But, my hart sank thinking of leaving. No way I could leave. Looking around, I see Ann in the things she did over the years here.
In fact, all her stuff is still here in the house. 4 years now Dec 4 at 8.30 pm.
Maybe that's what Tammy is thinking, Having spent a lifetime to build what she wanted and not have the will to start over.
Starting over at 20 years old is easy, at 60+ is not.
Best of luck looking for a backhoe.
Thought about this on my farm walkabout today.....Ducks Unlimited
HOW CAN DUCKS UNLIMITED HELP? A wetland restoration or enhancement project may seem like a difficult task to undertake. Fortunately, government agencies and private organizations such as Ducks Unlimited (DU) are available for technical and financial assistance. For example, DU contributes to numerous private land restorations by handling project costs, offering wetland protection in perpetuity through conservation easement contracts, providing consultation with biologists and supplying engineering design and construction services. Our conservation efforts extend well beyond the realm of waterfowl to benefit over 900 species of wildlife (including numerous species listed as threatened and endangered), improve water quality and promote ecosystem health across the continent.
May be more than you are interested in, but food for thought.
Scott B.
Sounds to me like you need to change the venue of the pig roast to the UP and tell all attendees to bring their shovels and closer attendees can bring their Skid steers and FELs. Have everything marked out prioritized and make a work day out of it. Lots of folks I know do things like that every year with their deer camps and such and everyone has a good time cutting grass, brush, firewood and making repairs. Just because people are working doesn't mean they can't socialize and have a good time.
Sounds to me like there should be plenty of camping spaces nearby. I can send you a design for composting toilets if you need to make some more. ;) Remember - the crescent moon is a ladies toilet and a sunburst is for males. ;D
I have self debated on having the pigroast become a potluck one year and have it at the cabin. Problem really would be lodging. When it's dry, I have plenty, but when it aint, high spots are valued.
How far from "mod-run civil-i-zation" is your camp? ???
I would love it if you had the Pigroast at the cabin, but that's me being selfish. I could do the UP as a weekend trip😁 I do have shovels😉
Mackinaw city/St ignace, soo st. Marie, are all an hour away. Cedarville has a days inn and a small motel, they are 20 miles away. There are resorts on caribou lake, 2 miles away. There is a beautiful state campground about 10 minutes away on lake huron.
I can dig it. My daughter and SIL have family in Wolverine and we frequent the area. That's not all that far from your cabin. We'd be there in a heartbeat if you decide to go that route. We've enjoyed all your videos of your place and would love to see it in person.
Brent
Another idea is to run some ads on trading your classic mustang for tractor backhoe or tracked Skidsteer. You never known. You might be surprised!
I'm in the process of getting it cleaned up. Problem is it aint running right, and I dont have a clue how to tune, or diagnose a hopped up hotrod engine of unknown build.
Just do the best you can and have it looking good! If it at least runs that's a big plus. I had a suburban ltz that wasn't running the best and a little smoke on startup and several things not working after sitting for several years. I polished it up inside and out with excellent pictures and stated in the ad that it runs and drives excellent but needed some lifter work and priced accordingly. The phone and texts rang off the hook!! I could have gotten 2 to 3 k more than what I was asking. Classic car shined up good pictures needs tlc after sitting 💰💰💰
Maybe ill do a video telling everything I know
40 years ago I needed a car. What I had was a VW Super Beetle Convertible and I needed something I could travel in.
I drove the VW to a Toyota dealer. We didn't quite swap even but I got really good money for the trade.
Maybe you can find an equipment dealer with a soft spot for Mustang hot rods.
Quote from: Peter Drouin on December 07, 2022, 07:21:31 AM
When you live in one place a long time, it's hard to leave. When I lost Ann. Some said sell and get a smaller place. This was raw land when Ann and I got it. We built everything here 40 years ago. I thought about it, even called a Realtor. Found out I could get crazy $$$$ for it. But, my hart sank thinking of leaving. No way I could leave. Looking around, I see Ann in the things she did over the years here.
In fact, all her stuff is still here in the house. 4 years now Dec 4 at 8.30 pm.
Maybe that's what Tammy is thinking, Having spent a lifetime to build what she wanted and not have the will to start over.
Starting over at 20 years old is easy, at 60+ is not.
Best of luck looking for a backhoe.
I feel for you! Sorry that you still don't have your best friend! But on the flip side it's new beginnings for many! The good memories will be with you wherever you go! My point is that so many people go to the grave and say what if or I was going to do that! Live life! Don't let it be you!
Good thinking Ted! It starts with the burning desire and when you want something bad enough you will figure things out and be surprised how things all come together!!!
Would be worth running the vin and door plate numbers to get a Marti report. They have a database of all the production #'s of mustangs, will show all options how/when it was originally built on the assembly line. Might add to the sale value just by having a copy.
This mustang is a 71. Its clearly had a lot of history. It started life as a Red Grande. Not a mach, but someone put mack stuff on it. I think this was a young guys garage fixed up at some point It has good bones, and is a pretty nice looking car, but it aint a high dollar classic as far as im concerned.
But you ain't the one buying it so your concern about it not being high dollar aren't as important as the guy who thinks it IS high dollar. :D
Quote from: Jeff on December 08, 2022, 04:26:27 PM
Maybe ill do a video telling everything I know
A person could really run with a straight line like that ;D.
As we drive up and down the mountains in winter, and I imagine for you across the bridge, having quarters down in a warmer valley for the winter would be nice!
Buy it at the wore out price, it won't lose value.
All joking aside BIG, old, excavators can be bought cheap because it's not financially viable to move them for work all the time.
Well, that is true, but it is what it is. If I was going to keep it, Id buy a modern 302 crate engine and transmission, and it would be one nice car, with what I think is an old only fair home garage paint job.
If a big excavator wanted to live his life out on my place, hed be welcome:D
Better to think it's worth gold as opposed to peanuts. I somewhat drifted to think peanuts on the suburban because of the engine. And if I would have set my price higher by 3k I would have gotten it easy!! Might have been a few days instead of a couple hours with the guy having thousands in cash in hand!
I really would rather trade it, than try and sell and buy.
Get things ready and start the ads and kick back. I had a Willy's truck cab advertised years ago and nothing till a guy called that was driving down the interstate that was from Indiana and coming back from Utah with a truck, camper pulling a monster 100k built jeep on a small trailer. I give him directions and he got off the interstate came out in the country and unbelievably we put the cab on the front of the trailer by hand where there was barely enough room. Slapped each other on the back give me a wad of cash and away he went
Probably already understood but there is something to be said for renting a big piece of equipment for a week or two. Namely, not having to worry about maintenance.
That being said, about a year or two after buying our 6 acre property I rented a backhoe for a week after coming up with a decent list of projects, that sounds similar to yours. The week came and went and the amount of work completed was insane, but it cost me around 2300 bucks, I think. We continued with some projects but I quickly found that many of the projects I was interested in doing weren't going to be done with me and a shovel or ax, so I started considering a backhoe again. In a bittersweet moment my dad passed away, unexpectedly, and left my sister and I some money (thanks to my stepmom's excellent money management skills), and I could suddenly afford a backhoe. I spent about 24k on a 2004 model, that, so far, is running pretty well, bought about 3 years ago. The amount of work that can be done is insane.
This pile of dirt times 2, taken from my creek, in maybe 2-3 hours?
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/63516/20221204_125248.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1670446571)
Renting can be a bummer because it's lovely to have the machine whenever you get a bug to go do something instead of being on a timeline, but with owning maintenance is a real concern and hose replacement is about as cheap as it gets and that's still in the neighborhood of 100 bucks for 2 feet of hose.
All that being said, if I could find a truck and trailer (I'd say 60-75% chance on both of those) I'd be willing to make the haul to a pigroast at the cabin and do some digging.
You can find some older Ford 5000 backhoes that will get real work done and they aren't crazy expensive if you can do some wrenching. HeavyEquipmentForums will be happy to advise. I wouldn't be surprised if you could find a pretty straight trade also.
@Hilltop366 (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=8975) mentioned ruts with the backhoe, I'll second the cr@p out of that one... I have made a huge mess of my yard with ruts. To the point where I bought a tractor and blade with the intention of attempting to flatten them out as time goes on. A third of my time in the backhoe has likely been spent cleaning messes the backhoe has made.
If you really want to impress the missus, bury the dozer in the front yard ;D.
That should get you motivated to get those vehicles listed for trade/sell!!
Ive been gone all summer, with my shop being used by not me and it was a flippin mess. Took 3 days to sort my tools out. I hope to get on the mustang hard this next week. Ill need guidance for sure I changed the plugs this week, and found one had thehex rouded off. Waiting for a bolt bite socket to try and get it out.
Easy on the knuckles, Jeff.
I would mention that even though we have a backhoe I still hire an excavator once in a while.
Last year I hired a 13 ton excavator with a hammer, I did a lot of work demolishing a cement pool but when it came time to break down the walls I would have been forever, the hammer did it in no time ,it took longer to unload and install the hammer and remove and load back on the trailer than it did to do the work.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/18975/20210721_170608.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1670966987)
This year I wanted 4 large spruce trees removed that were next to a road, power wires and neighbouring business with a new fence so I hired a 25 ton excavator to knock the trees over, I'm quite confident between the backhoe, tractor with winch and a helper it could have been done but in 12 min the excavator had them all safely on the ground and they have job site insurance as I only have road insurance.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/18975/20221108_170211.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1670966964)
Jeff,
I'd be willing to bet that every time your looking at your projects thinking, man I could use a, hoe, excavator, or a skid steer. That there is a close to retirement small time dirt worker saying, man I could use a classic car/truck to tool around in vs having a hoe, excavator, and a skid steer. I don't need all that equipment... just got to figure out a way for you two to meet up
Thats what im hoping! 8)
Looking forward to when the thread evolves to Diggin it! You bet I can !!!. Keep after it and making your moves. It will happen!!
See a '72 International Loader back hoe on CL near Conover, WI (40-50 mile from Chet) for $5k.
Just for some reference. See it is running in the pic, and has frozen dirt under buckets front and back.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10180/LoaderBackhoe.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1671296993)
got a link to it? Intrested
@beenthere (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=180) that is an excellent example of a machine, there are a lot of, out there. If you are willing to deal with old you can find some stuff, and not worry about all the newfangled computer and DEF stuff that loves to cause problems that don't make sense.
That looks like it would be a good one, but until I get that mustang gone, I gotta just gawk.
It might look good but it could cost you thousands to fix this and that
A 5k backhoe and 5k of repairs to make it whole would still be far less than anything I've been seeing. A new midsized rig is 3 times that.
I agree. I paid $3800 for "Fat Albert" but I did not buy him to dig, instead I bought him to handle logs.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/2410/DSCN1234.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1292987836)
Which he did quite well until I got other means. He cost me a couple of hoses and I fixed the brakes but nothing major.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/IMG_0395.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1626567715)
And then he moved on to another owner.
I would not be afraid of old iron especially when your initial cost is within reason.
A 2wd unit will not be as versatile but should be much cheaper.
Bought a 1977 John Deere 310A in 1994 for $8500. A refugee from the Wyoming oil fields, pretty loose in the pins from hard use(abuse?) but functional. Two wheel drive, plows snow with chains on drive tires. No turbo, extendahoe or computer. I don't believe there is even one "sensor" on the tractor anywhere. but has a cab/heater and lights. Never had a minutes problem with engine or trans or hydraulic system. One rear axel housing had to be replaced. Had a mobile JD mechanic come do it on site. Bought used housing and parts and IIRC was under two K to repair. Coming up on 30 years of use. It's been a good investment.
I bought 4 wheel drive and I'm very happy to have it. You can almost always unstick yourself with the hoe side but I've got a project now where I'm filling my barn floor, to levelish, with dirt that most would call mud after the pile got rained on a bit for the past couple weeks. I drove in there to attempt to smash all the dirt down and it was wet enough to just smush around rather than pack, so it'll be a couple more days to let it dry out. I spun tires like crazy as I pushed through about a foot and a half of the muck. The 4x4 held its own so I didn't get stuck but I don't think I'd have a chance with 2 wheel drive, though chains would help.
For work around the pond and if you are scooping piles of stuff heavy enough to lift the back tires up a bit the 4x4 will help immensely, though you can extend the hoe boom out a bit to get the weight back on the big tires.
I'm a pansy, so 4x4 it was.
I hope you find something!
Don't misunderstand, I fully agree about 4wd and my 2wd comment was directed toward cost and availability. With the front bucket and rear dipper, it's very seldom that a backhoe can not be walked out, especially in Jeff's situation.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/47685/IMG_20171020_173350_031.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1671486267)
The bittersweet day in 2017 I sold my 1980 John Deere 310A, part of the sale $$$$ went as down payment on my Wood-Mizer LT28, which I'm using to build my business. That machine did all the stump removal, trenching, and grading work for my house I live in now and paid for itself a couple times over with the work I did. It also proved to be one heck of a "tree pusher", and I directional felled many trees with it. I "replaced" it with the 4wd Kubota tractor I run now, but have missed the backhoe part many times since I sold it. I easily put $5000 into it when I owned it (tires alone were a couple grand), along with starters, an injection pump, steering knuckles, almost every hose and I don't know how many cans of ether, gallons of hydraulic fluid, and bags of oil dry. :D
Quote from: Walnut Beast on December 19, 2022, 08:45:32 AM
It might look good but it could cost you thousands to fix this and that
Thats were big excavators scare me, the cost of one track motor could ruin all the "fun".
Resonator, that is my tractor exactly! Add a little more rust and grease/oil and that's it! I've never been stuck with the two wheel drive, where I couldn't pull/push/lift completly rear axle and set over on new dirt with the Hoe. Had a few close calls, but always made it out!
Tires, well, yeah...hoses? By the case.. can't count the red diesel or either or motor oil/filters..just the cost of doing business. Having it available whenever "I" need it...priceless!
Yup, should look similar to yours Les, John Deere changed very little in the 310 line all through the 70's and up until the early 1980's. 410's and 510's were also similar, so searching for interchangeable salvage parts gives you more possibilities. I learned the hard way Deere genuine parts are made of gold (for what they charge) and to look for generic equivalent - "metric" parts to do repairs and save thousands.
That pic was when I sold it, and after I gave it a "Dupont overhaul", $75 a gallon JD paint at least made it look pretty. I got real good at getting unstuck using any and all of the handy hydraulic attachments it had. I also built a 9' steel push blade for the front I used for a parking lot I snow plow. With just under 13,000# of weight, and a set of snow chains, that thing could hook up like a dozer. It also had a crazy amount of digging force, there weren't too many stumps I couldn't dig out (given time to do it).
One weak point was the front steering knuckles, they would break out over the splines on the king pin. Especially when you hooked a stump digging, which lifted the front, and slammed it down again. I learned later to have a full loader bucket to counterbalance this. Another weak point was the linkage between the stick, the bucket, and the curl ram. If you look close in the pic you'll see where it has had a plate welded on one set, and the other I just replaced with 1 1/4" bar stock with pin holes burned through.
My BIL has a old JD, sometime we compare parts prices :o, that is why I stuck with Case 580 series. I could be wrong but some of those old machines of less common brands seem like orphans and could be hard to get parts for. I also liked the over centre locking boom for driving down the road and loader work. No brand are without their issues, the 580 is known for cracks in the loader arm and frame/ hyd tank and I did have a crown and pinion wear out on a 79 580c after 20 years but it was well worn when we got it.
That's one good thing with the Case 580's, they built thousands over the years so parts are easier to find and get. Any backhoe you'll want to examine the boom, stick, loader, frame, bucket, etc, for cracks and breaks. Just the nature of the job they take abuse, and some previous "operator" could of broke an anvil with a rubber mallet. ::)
Backhoe's in general were popular with municipal highway departments or utility companies, so they can come up for sale with high hours, but they were fleet maintained and kept job ready.
Yes to the looking for cracks and the like but also beware that a lot of boom arms are cast iron, so may not be easy to weld.
Some of those old John Deere machines had a cast section for the pivot of the base of the boom. I was told they were nodular iron, I don't know if that was true but if so it makes them more difficult to repair. And yes they did get busted up.
I have only owned one backhoe and that was a Ford 555.It was 2wd. Brakes were always good, started and ran like a champ.Good chains on the back and it was good to go.
Some had problems with the torque converter but mine never had a problem.
Wish I still had it.
Here you go a Case 480 B that will probably be in your price range. Bids open the 23rd
https://www.auctiontime.com/listings/construction-equipment/auctions/online/218799527/case-480b (https://www.auctiontime.com/listings/construction-equipment/auctions/online/218799527/case-480b)
And if you want to splurge and have a skid combo backhoe
https://www.jcb.com/en-us/products/backhoe-loaders/1cxt
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/59695/0CC60B83-15BB-43B6-9BFA-1A1CE9E099D0.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1671582473)
(https://www.jcb.com/en-us/products/backhoe-loaders/1cxt)
Quote from: barbender on December 20, 2022, 06:05:26 PM
Some of those old John Deere machines had a cast section for the pivot of the base of the boom. I was told they were nodular iron, I don't know if that was true but if so it makes them more difficult to repair. And yes they did get busted up.
Yes sir, 210C(?) 4wd, had to split the hoe off in a mud hole in the woods with a farm jack and some blocking, take that cradle-pivot thing out and to the best fab/machine shop around to have him weld and fix it proper after it broke. Then had him make a new plate/bushing for the tractor side bottom pin because when the cradle broke it took the factory stuff out with it. Dad came to help me get it back together and that was sure nice of him and the only good memory of the whole ordeal! I rather wish you hadn't brought it up :D
I don't think I've ever seen a 210C backhoe in person, only in pictures. I think one having a backhoe was a lower production model. They made far more with a box blade on the back and the bucket loader on the front. Reffered to as a "skip loader", they were popular with paving companies. The cast-ductile steel (guessing) section at the bottom of the boom JD calls a "swing frame", and is listed as one unit part they'd want you to replace. Probably a long since obsolete part, and if they did have it, you'd be hurting after you paid the bill. :o :D
I'm aware of this part because my Grandpa had an old JD 300 backhoe. Grandpa and his boys had worked the snot out of that backhoe installing septic systems over the years, often using a bucket that was really to big for it. So by the time I was old enough to use the machine, it was just used for the front end loader, and the backhoe was an unusable counterweight because the lower pivot was all busted up.
One problem was the boom cylinder would settle as you were using it, and you'd finally notice the hoe was dragging behind you. You'd have to lift it back up, and carry on. Well one day, the hoe settled behind me, and just fell right off😳😂
It was then I learned the value it had as a counterweight. That machine can barely move without the weight of the hoe on it.
The counterweight properties are pretty amazing. They can be real sketchy too... sometimes I'll move the hoe side around, just for better positioning, or to move the boom around to improve counterweight effects, and if I slip just a little and the hoe side moves more than just a crawl the whole machine feels like it'll tip! I think that may be some of the scariest stuff.
I've been dug in, stuck in the mud before where having to use the hoe to raise the big tires out several feet in the air, like I'm sure most backhoe owners. That's also pretty sketchy as you pick your self up and try to rotate the machine out of the hole, also feeling real tippy. I've spent like 2 hours clawing myself out of holes before, very tense!
Y'all seem to be persuading Jeff to buy a backhoe. With his incredible resourcefulness, I'd think he could rig up something using a steel bucket, a few cables, pulleys and clevises to drag the bottom with the tractor to remove dirt/sediment.
A backhoe or excavator would be the cat's meow, though. I don't know how much demand there is for fill in the UP, but around here, a lot of folks buy land by the dump truck load. Sometimes, you can get a pond dug or deepened for less money if you are willing to part with the dirt removed. I don't know if a dredge pump would be of any use, but that too may be considered.
I was looking at used backhoes because sometimes they can be found at a very good price due to their "market" evolving. My dealer was explaining that with the explosion of track loaders and mini excavators that are 10,000 lbs and under which can be towed in many states with a non DOT vehicle and trailer combination, the old school backhoe is rapidly falling out of favor for the average rental yard, landscaper and septic tank installer. Even the big construction guys are not using them much anymore, preferring the dozer/trackhoe combination, just like the small operator prefers the skid steer/mini excavator combination. Not that backhoes are not capable, but their footprint is too big and they require a CDL to transport, and for many people, a CDL is a non starter these days, requiring weeks of training, certified ride alongs, and thousands of dollars.
As a matter of fact the guy who I bought my equipment from, one of the largest Kubota and New Holland dealers in Alabama doesn't even sell new backhoes anymore, and won't even buy back a used one unless it's on trade. Our John Deere Construction equipment dealer doesn't have any on the yard either. So for a private landowner, a used one is a lot of bang for the buck because their market is disappearing. He's not wrong, we have a tremendous amount of construction here in Huntsville, and the equipment I see of dozers, compact track loaders, excavators of all sizes, dump trucks and rock trucks. There in only one construction site I know of that has one backhoe, and it's been stationary for a month of more, I guess its broken.
The backhoe is the Swiss army knife of the construction trade, A dozer is much better for pushing and levelling, a excavator is much better for digging and a loader is much better for moving bucket loads of material around but none are very good at the other jobs so if you are just going to have one the backhoe was the only answer.
They're kind of a "jack of all trades - master of none"(old saying ;)) machine. As Yellowhammer said the market is evolving, compact track loaders and mini excavators have taken their place. Municipal highway departments and utilities used them a lot, because they could be driven on the street to a job. Particularly in urban areas (I seen ones in New York state with license plates even) where bringing in a truck and trailer with a machine is not as practical.
Yep, rubber tire backhoes are not the best at any of the jobs they do. But if you can only have one machine for your property, they are great.
As always, Red Green can be consulted for your property maintenance needs-
Handyman Corner "Cadillac Backhoe" - YouTube (https://youtu.be/c4g2bp_gZDE)
Quote from: YellowHammer on December 21, 2022, 08:09:02 AM
I was looking at used backhoes because sometimes they can be found at a very good price due to their "market" evolving. My dealer was explaining that with the explosion of track loaders and mini excavators that are 10,000 lbs and under which can be towed in many states with a non DOT vehicle and trailer combination, the old school backhoe is rapidly falling out of favor for the average rental yard, landscaper and septic tank installer. Even the big construction guys are not using them much anymore, preferring the dozer/trackhoe combination, just like the small operator prefers the skid steer/mini excavator combination. Not that backhoes are not capable, but their footprint is too big and they require a CDL to transport, and for many people, a CDL is a non starter these days, requiring weeks of training, certified ride alongs, and thousands of dollars.
As a matter of fact the guy who I bought my equipment from, one of the largest Kubota and New Holland dealers in Alabama doesn't even sell new backhoes anymore, and won't even buy back a used one unless it's on trade. So for a private landowner, a used one is a lot of bang for the buck because their market is disappearing. He's not wrong, we have a tremendous amount of construction here in Huntsville, and the equipment I see of dozers, compact track loaders, excavators of all sizes, dump trucks and rock trucks. There in only one construction site I know of that has one backhoe, and it's been stationary for a month of more, I guess its broken.
I was looking for an old backhoe about 2 years ago and had about given up on the auction sites as the backhoes that used to be $8-10k were bringing $15-18k and I finally came across a late 90's JD 310d for $20k. It was more than I wanted to spend, but it was the best deal I'd found and I'm glad I did. 4x4, cab, heater, radio, extendahoe, and a turbo diesel have spoiled me. I bought it from a contractor that had changed his equipment away from the backhoe to skidsteers and mini excavators as his employees could haul them without a CDL. I haven't travelled more than 10 miles with my backhoe so it's a non issue for me to just road it where I need to. Too bad I'm not closer Jeff, you could borrow mine for a few weeks. But freight from Montana would be a killer!
Levi
I'll add my relic, it's a 1963 Napco Crab. :) From what I can gather it was built for the Army corps of engineers. Bought it 20 years ago for 5 grand, figuring I couldn't loose as it had low hour Inland Machine 353 Detroit reman in it. Figured I could always sell da Detroit. :D
Fast forward to now and this thing owes me nothing. :) It's a tired old horse, but does everything I've ever asked it to do. If ya asked me tomorrow if I'd take 10 for her, I'd say nope.
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Those pictures remind me of driving around the country roads here, used backhoes have found a home with all the farmers and land owners because they are so capable. They sit in the equipment line or under a shed for months, then you'll see them out working. Many seem to be the Ford 555 family, and as my buddy who has a farm backhoe says, the expense of running an old backhoe isn't in fuel, it's hydraulic fluid from the leaking cylinders. :D
The main reason I didn't get one for my use is because of their relatively high center of gravity. We have lots of hills and slopes and high CG machines don't work real well here.
I did some work for an older gentleman back in '08 and he had a 555 with the extendahoe he would pull around locally on a sketchy equipment trailer behind an '07 Lincoln Blackwood. He knew most of the cops so I suspect he thought it was ok, to the best of my knowledge nothing ever went really wrong but needless to say, the truck was slightly over loaded. He also had a 40' Snorkel lift he pulled around a few times with that same truck/trailer combo, it didn't look too safe either. I was driving the lift off the trailer once and the blocking he put under the rear trailer crossmember slipped which slammed the basket I was in onto the ground and lifted the back of his truck ~5' off the ground. I decided I wouldn't do that again unless he was using his dump truck to pull it.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/26307/555.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1671730975)
Here is nice example of a Ford 555 backhoe.
Don't see them in this shape very often.
It is in Northern Vermont.
It does not belong to me.
Seems to me I looked at an old ford backhoe once, I remember the cab being quite roomy, almost big enough for a double bed.
These plugs had 100 miles on them before it started missing real bad on a return trip home. I finally got in there and did a compression test. Dead cylinder. No noise while cranking engine. Ill pull the rocker cover next.
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Jeff, I take it that is the Mustang? Stuck/burnt valve?
Yup mustang. When we first got it , maybe 250 miles ago, it had a rocker arm stud come loose on the other side. Somebody put roller rockers on it. I bet another came lose on the other side. Poor assembly I'd say
Dang it
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(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10001/1000005675.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1671749873)
Well that would make it skip a bit!
FYI you probably already know this but you can change valve springs without removing the head. Lots of youtube videos on the subject
Don't sell Mr. truck get a small you put together garage and keep Mr. truck in it. I have two JD B tractors they'll stay in the machinery shed until an antique tractor parade comes next summer. Rita will ride the 51 B an I'll run the 37 B and there should be a few Mr. trucks there too.
My big problem may be trying to figure out where to get a matching spring.
That spring has sprung! :o
Wonder if they are standard springs, or have they been swapped for aftermarket ones when the engine was slapped back together? Know any tame mechanics what might be able to compare the springs?
I'd also bet they are stock springs.
Could remove another one first to go shopping for your replacement.
Does broken spring have valve hung open?If so possible piston has came up and hit valve.Hopefully not but if valve isn't hung open why did cylinder loose compression?
Disregard previous post.I guess I've been retired to long.I now realize valve is opening properly but not sealing because of broken spring.Sorry I should've thought more before posting.
I don't think those are an interference engine, well they weren't when stock anyway. But either valve not closing properly will mean little compression on that cylinder.
I would look for paint /dye marks on the springs, cross ref. those to a lb./stroke rating.
I hope to get some numbers off that rocker, because id bet those and the springs came as a set.
Its been a horrible night here. I Came in from taking that picture to sawyer in a grandmal seisure his meds are doing nothing. He cant walk or see and has had multiple seizures through the night. He had not had one in 6 weeks. We are in the middle of a blizzard and I highly doubt we can get any help this morning. Im really afraid for him/us this time.
Hang in there Jeff. Praying for you all.
Sad to hear about Sawyer.
Thoughts and prayers for you guys!!!
Jeff maybe reach out to Nebraska for some advice!! Hang in there!!
Breaks my heart to hear about Sawyer Jeff. I sure hope something works for him.
My friend Bill has a Shepard pup, well about 10 months old now, called Hercules and every time he greats me I think of sawyer. They may be cousins, except this fella isn't as quick a learner as Sawyer was growing up. Anyway, Sawyer is on my mind frequently and I wish him the very best. He's a smart dog.
Pat @Nebraska (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=45256) has been in contact with me through the day. Hes had 2 more seizures this afternoon. He's walking better but can not see or navigate. This really sucks.
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Thanks everyone.
Sorry to hear about Sawyer. It brings back memories of my wife's last shepherd that I'd rather not. I hope he recovers soon and completely.
Very, truly sorry to hear this news.
Another long night, but considerable improvement with Sawyer the last couple hours. No overnight seizures and his vision is returning. He is not cryng constantly, but still some, but parts of Sawyer are starting to re-emerge. We sure hope for continued improvement. It is absolutely the only thing we want or need for Christmas.
Good to hear, Jeff.
We're still praying for his complete recovery.
Thanks for the update. PatD and I were concerned and welcome the better news. :)
We are so tired and so spent, but we are so grateful for the support and prayers. We've had a tough fall, with things I've not talked about. Tammy permanantly loosing her hearing and inner ear functions in one ear and having to learn to walk and balance again has been life altering here, but she is doing well considering. We actually are not having any christmas here, but if Sawyer would just pull out of this, it would take a little stress off for a bit.
Another good sign. Sawyer wanted to play ball and tackle Harley. He failed at both, but that was definitely sawyer in there!!
So glad to hear this news. Prayers to you and family. You folks have been put thru it and you continue to persevere. Stay strong and thank you for allowing this extended family to be part of the loop.
Prayers continue.
So glad to hear Sawyer is coming around! Great news!
Very sorry to hear Tammy's troubles and I hope she finds a comfort zone dealing with the new issues. That is a rough one.
Seems like these days we all have to find our joys in the little things or the small things that are large to us. Pat and I aren't having Christmas either. The GS's will drop by, but their mother's side of the family is pretty demanding of their time. So we may just see them for an hour or so before they get dragged off somewhere else. We will go across the road to the neighbor's tonite for dinner and/or drinks. Nothing special.
Be at peace, enjoy each other.
So sorry to hear this. Glad to hear Sawyer is finally starting to show signs of recovery. Prayers to you and your family. Don't forget to take care of yourself.
Really feel for you Jeff. We have a 14 year old GSP (Millie) that has degenerative disc disease and arthritis. Each day with her is another gift. Blessings to all of you, Ed
Sorry to hear about Tammy. :o :(
Life can be hard at times.
Give them both a Christmas hug for me.
Sawyer Starts P.T. after Seizures. - YouTube (https://youtu.be/NUuzIE15h5w)
Glad to hear things are going better and you are the rock being able to take care of your loved ones in these ruff times ❤️.The power of prayer from everyone is very powerful.
Good boy is right.
So I have 2 dogs - a Tri-color border collie/Queenland mix (Kallie) and something border collie/chocolate lab mix (Stella) and both about 45 pounds. Stella has seizures every few months and Kallie started to have them this year. Maybe two so far. About 6 months ago Kallie had a strange episode where she appeared to be blind and could not stand. The blindness went away in about a day but she was was off her food for a good week, loosing weight. Googling it was a inner ear issue that messes with balance. Head tilted to one side and rapid eye movement. Could go to the vet and pay for an MRI to determine if it was a trauma or just "unknown". The treatment is just "wait and see". So I didn't spend the money and she was good in about 2 weeks. Now Stella is going through the same thing. She would drink water but no food for almost 2 weeks. She was pretty chunky but is eating again and back to a normal dog weight. Only she is taking much longer to get her balance back. She walks like a drunken sailor right now but is in high spirits.
Any updates on Sawyer?
Yes, I was just typing something up, but I'll leave the part out on how, but for now, he got out this mornig and was missing 20 minutes. I thought I was going to have a flippin heart attack. My chest still hurts from running around sucking in cold air searching for him.
Sawyer continues to slowly improve. The vet thought it would be more stressful to take him out this morning and since he was pretty stable now, I agreed after seeing how scared he looked just trying to get him in Tammy's car to go to Stacy's yesterday for Christmas which he normally loves to do. I got him out of the car and you could see the fear evaporate when I told him he and I were going to stay home. They had us go back to the regular doses of his meds, but added 2 tablets of a new one.
We shall see. Sigh.
Quote from: Walnut Beast on December 20, 2022, 07:16:01 PM
Here you go a Case 480 B that will probably be in your price range. Bids open the 23rd
https://www.auctiontime.com/listings/construction-equipment/auctions/online/218799527/case-480b (https://www.auctiontime.com/listings/construction-equipment/auctions/online/218799527/case-480b)
And if you want to splurge and have a skid combo backhoe
https://www.jcb.com/en-us/products/backhoe-loaders/1cxt
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/59695/0CC60B83-15BB-43B6-9BFA-1A1CE9E099D0.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1671582473)
(https://www.jcb.com/en-us/products/backhoe-loaders/1cxt)
I know you got your hands full. But this unit is at 1,900 bucks. I tried calling the guy about what worked and what didn't before Christmas and we missed each other's call.
This is the right specs. It's not 80 hp. The Case 480B Construction King backhoe
loader was manufactured between 1971 and
1977. The Case 480B CK is powered by 188
cu.in (3.1 L) G188D 4-cylinder liquid-cooled
diesel engine with a maximum power of 41.5 hp
(30.9 kW), or 148 cu.in (2.4 L) G148B 4-cylinder
gasoline engine with a maximum power of 38.5 hp (28.7 kW).
The Case 480B backhoe loader fitted with 2 transmission options:
mechanical shuttle transmission with 8 forward and 8 reverse
gears, or 4x4 synchronised shuttle shift transmission.
The maximum travel speed (forward/reverse): 16.9 mph (27.2
The problem is, I really have no way to take advantage of any deal until I unload this mustang.
Here are some pics I took before Sawyer became my fultime job. Any of you motorheads see anything to help identify or match the springs?
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Did ya measure the unloaded spring height of one of the other springs?
Being it still has the stock Windsor heads, I would be pretty sure them are stock springs.
There is really no way to ID the springs unless the flat areas at the top and bottom of the spring are stamped with something. Other than that, checking the whole set for height and spring tension will get you good numbers to get you in the ball park. Cam specs also a help here so you stay away from spring binding with too much lift.
I dont want to tear this engine down.
I talked to the guy that had that backhoe for a good half hour. He's a farmer and it's been sitting inside for three years. He took the carb off and cleaned to get it running after sitting. He got a 320 CAT to take stumps out a little better. I asked if a guy got it if it could be there awhile. He said no problem
There are fittings that you can screw into the spark plug hole to inject air into the cylinder. This will hold the valves up while you remove the springs. I did this when inserting teflon valve seals on a friends car. It can be difficult get the spring keepers to break loose, so rap them with a hammer prior to trying to compress the spring.
You also need a special spring compressor. There are different kinds . You can then use a rag and vise grips to hold the valve up while you test the spring or measure it, take it to a machine shop for testing, etc. Putting the cylinder at TDC will also keep the valve from falling through. Any competent machine shop will be able to tell you what springs will be a good replacement. You can also replace the seals at the same time.
We did every valve on the engine, so you can replace all the springs in this manner without pulling the heads. Just be sure to put a rag over the oil return holes in the head and take other precautions because you will drop a retainer for sure.
Numerous YouTube vids on the subject.
Heres one. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HZ_x4DIknBo (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HZ_x4DIknBo)
I've got a good idea on how to go about the repair, my concern is matching 1 broken spring of unknown origin.
You wont find one spring unless its sitting on some machine shop workbench somewhere.
Quote from: Jeff on December 27, 2022, 06:31:17 AM
I've got a good idea on how to go about the repair, my concern is matching 1 broken spring of unknown origin.
You could bring in another spring with it to your local machine shop. they should be able to measure the tension and height and find another spring. I am not sure if the exhaust and Intake springs on your motor are identical or not but you might be able to bring both springs from the same cylinder in. If that would work I would not use compressed air to hold the valves up for an extended period of time but use the rope method where you feed rope into the cylinder from the spark plug hole and then use a socket to carefully turn the engine over, moving the piston up to have the rope hold the valves up.
Jeff,
Intake and exhaust springs should be identical.
Bar engine over to TDC of compression stroke on that cylinder. Both valves should be in the closed position. (Heel of the cam) Apply air to that cylinder and compress valve springs with a spring compressor being careful not to lose the keepers. A pocket screwdriver with a magnet works good for this. Remove the broken spring and the other spring on that cylinder and take to an automotive machine shop. They can measure the uninstalled free length, installed height pressure, number of coil wraps, wire diameter of coil and outside diameter of good spring and through a little deciphering in a cam supplier book they should be able to locate a suitable replacement spring. I have the necessary tools to do the job and would be glad to ship them to you if you don't already have them on hand.
Get in touch with me if you need me to assist with tools or help walk you through it. It's not a tough job and I'm sure you can handle it. The hardest part would be setting the valve lash and that's not hard. More than likely it has a hydraulic cam and lifters along with the roller rockers but it's also possible someone could've put a solid lift cam in it.
Anyhow if you need tools or assistance contact me.
Brent
Is this being prepped for a quick, cheap sale or to be reliable?
I've rarely heard of only a single valve spring being replaced. If they're all the same and installed at the same time, statistics indicate another (or 15) will be on their way out before long as well.
Quote from: DDW_OR on December 06, 2022, 04:28:59 PM
how about renting an excavator for a month
I agree with the excavator rental, you can get a lot done in a month with an excavator but I'd not do it until about a month after your spring thaw up.
As you've seen in the past, I have an 8000 lb weight class excavator but while it will dig in frozen ground it is very slow going even with my 12" bucket and even lower with the 18" bucket when the ground is frozen. Just breaking thru frozen ground can take several hours at times, once thru the frost, enlarging the hole is not as bad. It's still much slower than when the ground is thawed.
Im starting to lean towards pulling the motor if I can coral some local help. I have an engine crane. I have a piece of vinyl flooring under the length of the car. There is tranny fluid leaking from somewhere. That car is L O W. I might want to assess my jack stands. Ive had em awhile. I would think with that long nose, I can pull them together.
Sawyer is still having issues seeing. His mamma had to be gone today to take our neighbor to chemo and radiation, and he really was glad when she got home. Me too. Sawyer is pretty much a fulltime duty right now. I'm hoping its the new med adjustment, because he went backwards for much of the day, but has rebounded abit since Tammy got here.
It seems that both have "head" troubles so I am rooting for both the German Shepard and the Mustang.
Any chance that with the roller rockers that the springs are the wrong size. Pull that windsor out and put in a repower, my son did that for my g.son's hot rod. He got one for $850.
I wish I had a modern 302 to drop in it, but if I did that, I might want to keep it!
Funny how they shine for the ladies :).
All the help i can be is I know they can come out of a pinto together :D. Well, and I think he put roller rockers on stock springs and didn't check what would happen when it got romped on, pure guess.
There's a lot to be said for a fresh motor.
Well, just my opinion, but I would say 'keep your eyes on the prize', which in this case is an easy sale or swap for a digger. Putting more money in will only reduce your return.
Match the spring as best you can, replace it, test drive it and list it. Chances are the person whop buys it will re-pop it anyway with his/her favorite power plant and want to to other stuff to it anyway. The spring that busted was in there for a while, maybe a long time. I don't believe those springs need to be matched very closely for spring rate, just close. But they do have to be fitted for dimensional purposes. That is they can't go to solid height during normal operation, need to have the right free length to keep the valve tight, etc.
If you can locate a spring it should very much be worth trying. You won't wind up any worse off than it is now.
I actually think these are low milage parts. I think I am dealing with poor innitial assembly.
I agree with OGH. How about talking to the guy you got it from and tracking back the ownership to determine what was done to it. Another option is to try to trace back the title or registration to find that hotrod owner.
From the way you describe the car, the work was done by a "bolt-on" hotrodder. So doubtful any internal work was done.
He is right. Eye on the prize. I called Harold to come help give me another set of eyeballs tomorrow. He also has some machine shop tools if I need to build a tool for spring compression.
I tried to put my phone endescope in, but this was all I got. It looks like a collision there, but dunno. The spring is broke enough I can lift the valve up and down with my fingers, and I think I can feel it seat. Hopefully it is not damaged. I think putting air in there will give me a clue on that.
Yea, Tom is right. If I pull that engine it may be forever to never getting this done. I've got a 5 month personal deadline to my want to start diggin date.
Forgot the pic.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10001/1000006615.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1672243288)
And in the mean time, my u.p. neighbor sent me a pic of my logrite trailer working, just before this big snow storm, doing what I want to do. Improving woods trails.
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(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10001/1000005647.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1672243519)
Pulling a head on that engine is not a big deal, for the peace of mind it will give you. A new head gasket is cheap. Check some of your local auto parts stores, as some will loan specialty tools for free.
This is a simple fix (Under 30 minutes) once you have the correct spring, engine removal is not necessary.
That looks like a pretty significant ding which probably damaged the valve. You might have to remove a few more rockers, but lay a flat metal ruler across the valve stems of closed valves and pull that one valve up all the way and see if it meets the ruler.
Based on that picture, at this point I am of the opinion its time to pull the heads.
That valve never dropped very far, the keepers are still there, the engine never made any noise, it just suddenly developed a dead miss. The ding could be old. I'm going to put air in it. If the valve stays up, and there is no fast leakage, I'd say it is all right. If I put a spring in, and it runs okay, there we are, if it doesn't the head will come off, but that means more than just unbolting head bolts.
Hanging in there. He hears well, but I think the nose and eyes are off a bit yet, but we expect that to improve. He's been that way before.
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Glad he's getting along better than he was. I'm sure he feels comfortable being with the pack!
That dog knows he's loved. :)
Im going to pull the head. There is something else wrong in there. I cant get air to push the valve up. I can hold it up, put air to it and then just push it back down.
So I was dreading the header bolts. They were all nothing much more than slightly snug. No effort to loosen any of them. ::)
More than likely just need ta lap da valve.
Might not be so bad Jeff, still lots of winter left. ;)
Yep, sounds like the valve got dinged. Was it intake or exhaust? You probably could hear air escaping through the intake.
Exhaust.
This seems like a lot of carburetor
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Little motivation! The Case 480 backhoe sold for 5k. So when you get things ironed out you should be able to get a decent unit and a little money to play with if you study things and look hard
Look up Holley double pumpers, I think they can be as small as 600 cfm on up to "stand back".
Well, the anyifreeze is draining, got number 1 cylinder at tdc and I marked the roter and distributer location. We'll see if life gives me a chance tomorrow to start pulling stuff apart.
Dem carbs aren't rated by MPG, more like 0 ta 60. 8)
Look at it. It was not a cruiser.
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Quote from: chet on December 29, 2022, 07:11:08 PM
Dem carbs aren't rated by MPG, more like 0 ta 60. 8)
More like GPM ;)
At a guess the bad valve spring will have prevented the exhaust valve from sealing shut properly. A bit of leaking combustion gas burns the valve's sealing surface, and hence no seal. Hopefully not so badly it can't be reground.
The muscle cars of that era were designed to pass anything... except a gas station. move_it
People often overdo it with carbs. Even a built up 351 Windsor doesn't need more than a 750cfm carb. Be interested to hear if the heads are ported or everything is simply bolt on.
Ill take pics so I have some sort of chance to get it back together without undo issues.
Should I number and identify each valvetrain component's location?
Yes.
Definitely, they have each mated and seated uniquely.
Quote from: rusticretreater on December 29, 2022, 10:18:17 PM
People often overdo it with carbs. Even a built up 351 Windsor doesn't need more than a 750cfm carb. Be interested to hear if the heads are ported or everything is simply bolt on.
351 cu in = .2031 cubic feet
750 cfm/.2031cubic feet per rotation= 3692 RPM's?
I take a cardboard box and punch holes in it to hold everything you can and write which cylinder, I or E, a dollar store muffin tin, baggies and sharpies, label everything and put everything back in the same holes. At least then I don't have to remember what is critical, it all is.
Quiet dog days are good days.
Yes. The pushrod, rocker and valves all stay together. The springs should too, but you are going to replace all of them aren't you? ;D
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The formula for calculating how much CFM (cubic feet per minute) an engine requires is: CFM = Cubic Inches x RPM x Volumetric Efficiency ÷ 3456.
Any ordinary stock engine will have a volumetric efficiency of about 80%. Most rebuilt street engines with average bolt-ons have a volumetric efficiency of about 85%, while race engines can range from 95% up to 110%.
Example: Using a 355 CID engine x 5,500 max rpm = 1,952,500
Take 1,952,500 x .85 = 1,659,625
Then 1,659,625 ÷ 3456 = 480 CFM
The constant 3456 is used to convert CIM (cubic inches per minute) to CFM but to also compensate for the fact that a four stroke engine cylinder only intakes fuel/air every other revolution. It is 12x12x12x2.
I ran a jetted 650cfm holly on a 357CI Chevy with a 3/4 cam and ported heads to 6,000 rpm. The carb could have gone further, but I ran into valve float at the top end.
Is it the same equation for say a car or a loaded mountain pickup?
Sorry Jeff, I got curious ::) :D.
Quote351 cu in = .2031 cubic feet
750 cfm/.2031cubic feet per rotation= 3692 RPM's?
Only 1/2 the cylinders are on the intake cycle each rotation. So probably more like 7,000 rpm before it runs out of breath. But again, the rest of the engine needs to support that, the heads / valves / cam all need tweaking to match.
Also I assume it's 2 barrels on low and the secondaries open up as needed, either mechanical or vacuum.
But contrast that with a more modern engine. My old Toyota had a 4 x 45mm throttle body, on a 1600cc :D Forget that thing called "low end torque", peak torque was around 6,200 rpm, and peak power about 7,400. It was all factory standard, but a fun "sleeper" in a Corolla station wagon.
Quote from: Jeff on December 29, 2022, 10:23:41 PMShould I number and identify each valvetrain component's location?
What I used to do when stripping down the old GM 6 engine was get a piece of wood (2x4) and drill holes in it. Then each push rod had it's own hole. and the rockers / springs could be placed over their corresponding rod.
you can use a sharpie to write the cylinder number on the valve and rocker.
Even the push rods, Witch end, is up looking at you.
Speaking of push rods, your's could be bent on that dead cylinder.
Something to look out for.
I'll give them a roll on my welding table when I get it apart. If I find cylinder or piston damage, that's all she wrote. Burlkraft thinks I will. I don't. The valve still goes up and down and is still in its keepers, so I'm not sure how it would take out the lower end.
If you find a bent push rod, it can be straightened (tap, tap, tap) on that welding table. ;D My money is on you rather than a fatal failure. Fix/replace what is broken.
If the car ran under power the last time you had it going, it can't be too fatal. ;D
Tammy came home after driving it to Cadillac and back. It started the rattle and missing she said at the end of our road. She drove it iinto the droveway and shut it off. She had me listen to it, she drove it on Into the polebarn and shut it off. I could see liquid spoting the concrete and instantly evaporating as she rolled in coming from the passenger side exaust. I figured it was serious but not fatal from that. It had been running fine until it wasnt. :D
Ain't that the way of it? Old sage truth. :D :D
You would think it would have been much more likely of it rolling in perhaps rodded out with me behind the wheel. Not so.
With your skills and the knowledge here, got no doubt you'll get it going smoothly.
Quoteshe drove it on Into the polebarn and shut it off
"Ran when parked!" (Old used car saying). ;D
Quote from: Ianab on December 30, 2022, 12:35:53 AM
Quote from: Jeff on December 29, 2022, 10:23:41 PMShould I number and identify each valvetrain component's location?
What I used to do when stripping down the old GM 6 engine was get a piece of wood (2x4) and drill holes in it. Then each push rod had it's own hole. and the rockers / springs could be placed over their corresponding rod.
And
don't let anyone "help" you. How
all of them are marked/placed needs to be straight in your mind.
I built trusses for my 16' barn breezeway. They weren't perfectly symmetrical. I was lifting them with a makeshift gin pole. Tie it on, lift it up, up the ladder, pull the lead rope, repeat. I had something like 20 to do. My neighbors saw me working and came over to help. I was on top of one side roof, and Jerry on the other side. Maryann was tying them on.
Turned out she rotated them the opposite direction I did off the stack. Got them all up and sheeted. Once the shingles were on and you looked down the ridge (barn was lower then the house), there was a bump midway down where the roof plane lifted about 1/2". :-\
Quote from: rusticretreater on December 29, 2022, 10:18:17 PM
People often overdo it with carbs. Even a built up 351 Windsor doesn't need more than a 750cfm carb. Be interested to hear if the heads are ported or everything is simply bolt on.
In my teenage years I'd buy, fix, and sell cars for some extra pocket change. I built a 1975 camaro with a 350 small block that I cranked up. It needed bottom end work, so it got a turned and balanced crankshaft and higher compression pistons along with aluminum heads, intake, 650 cfm edelbrock carb, exhaust and distributor and that thing ran very well up to about 7,500 rpm where the valves started to float. I sold it to another guy and the first thing he did was throw an 850 double pumper on it, which made it over fuel and he lost horsepower and driveability. Bigger is not always better, unless we're talking about displacement ;) My next Camaro had a 400 small block that would spin to 8,000 rpm and was certifiably insane in that car :D I ended up selling that motor in my 20's and went to a fuel injected 350 which it still has.
Getting there. Ive not said anything, but the last 2 months I've been living in pain. Hips, knees, shoulders, actually all my joints. Working on a cement floor, bent over and contorted around an engine, is pretty tough right now. As my 4 or 5 forum youtube subscribers might have noticed, ive not been doing any videos. Just too much. Been taking many breaks. Im down to the head bolts, but im done for a bit. I gotta get my electric impact out of the truck, as I cant budge these head bolts.
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One bite at a time.
Joint pain ain't fun when there is stuff to be done.
Nice progress! 10-4 on the joint pain. Sure makes everything difficult. Working an engine in the car is a young man's sport.
Have you ever been checked out for Lyme disease? I don't know about ticks and Lyme in your area, but a lot of the different symptoms you've had could be attributed to Lyme disease. Just a thought - I'm certainly no expert.
Good luck with repair. And sale. And backhoe purchase.
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The only bolts I encountered that were tight were the head bolts. Everything else, id call slightly snugged, including the intake manifold bolts. No effort to break lose with a 3/8 ratchet.
I am not a youtube subscriber but I do watch almost all videos posted here on the forum. I'm no hotrod mechanic and can't help in that respect but the pain described sounds alot like me. This time last year I just felt terrible. Never had joint or back pain before but got to the point firewood was chore at 39. I'm 5'10 and in good shape but some days I sat in the snow and nearly cried my back hurt so bad. Got tested for Lyme, negative. A friend told me about gluten allergies, laid off the bread and all things gluten for a week and felt 1000% better. Worth a shot and nothing to lose. I can still eat bread to this day in moderation but I really feel I got overloaded around the holidays last year. Zero issues since I started moderating my approach.
I eat very little bread, but I do eat a flour tortilla most every day.
Well, I checked that valve with light and it isnt sealing tight. I took a short video. I would rotate and close, rotate and close, you could see a light bleed. Do ya'll think lapping it would take that out?
The guides are tight. Good suction when putting your finger over the hole while pulling out the valve. While rotating, opening, and closing that valve, it moved very smooth in the guide. Where the heck are the seals? No seals?
Ford racing intake manifold pics thrown in there.
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Checking 351w ford valve by rotating opening and closing with light - YouTube (https://youtu.be/WBLdz0zOhH8)
Some valve trains don't use seals, depends on how they oil. Have seen engines where someone didn't know that and installed them anyway, the end result was bad.
Bent valve most likely.
If you had a valve grinding machine or a metal lathe I would say put the valve in it and spin it to see if it is bent. Maybe in a drill press or hand drill you might be able to see it wobble. Grind a coat hanger wire to a point and clamp it so the point is next to the edge of the valve (were it is ground to seat in the head) and turn the drill press by hand or really slow and watch for any change in gap between the pointer and valve.
I was wondering what intake was on it when you pointed out the carb.
Some surgical tubing and hold the can of whip cream upright in the drink holder, you just want the nitrous.
It had a collision, I'd just get a new one. I've replaced individual valves on 2 of the Honda's they are notorious for burning #4 exhaust. Just confirm the dimensions and lap it in.
My first thought when looking at the pictures is that is one dirty engine. The carb is absolutely filthy.
You mentioning the valve seals are missing covered my second thought that valves and head recesses appear to look way too dark as they have oil residue on them.
Still there is no carbon buildup on the valves so the heads/valves were worked on not too long ago. Your exhaust valves should be whiter in color than your intake valves due to hot gases always passing around them.
The piston shows the valve did some tap dancing. And no, lapping the valve seat is not the proper fix for a bent valve. Valves can rotate while the engine is running and a bent valve will never perform. Lapping valves is kinda old school now as it was to make up for inaccuracies in the grinding stones used in valve jobs. The machinists use carbide cutters these days and the precision is 10 times better.
Check the valve seat for pitting. Lapping can't fix that either. If it looks ok, you can probably lap a new valve to a good fit.
There is no way Ford made an engine that was so precise it didn't need valve seals. Now you gotta tear down the other side to put the valve seals in.
The carb was never tuned, nothing was ever done with the fuel pump regulator.
Quote from: rusticretreater on December 30, 2022, 06:51:01 PM
My first thought when looking at the pictures is that is one dirty engine.
Whaddya wanna do? Lick it?
Send the heads to a machine shop to be rebuilt, valves in,
Buy new push rods, and head gaskets, intake.
Bolt them on and be done with it
;) ;D :new_year:
Bubble gum it together and send it away :)
Quote from: Peter Drouin on December 30, 2022, 08:41:24 PM
Send the heads to a machine shop to be rebuilt, valves in,
Buy new push rods, and head gaskets, intake.
Bolt them on and be done with it
;) ;D :new_year:
Absolutely!
Quote from: Corley5 on December 30, 2022, 09:35:46 PMBubble gum it together and send it away
Which is what was on the "cut list" before the first bolt was removed. Find what is wrong, fix it, and sell it without throwing $$ at feel good stuff.
Quote from: Corley5 on December 30, 2022, 09:35:46 PM
Bubble gum it together and send it away :)
I could never do that with anything.
That's just the way I am.
I would be none too happy if I were the next owner and found out that had been done. Now if someone came out and told me the whole story then it's on me, but to toss some sawdust into the rear end to hide the whine - yea I would remember that for a long time.
Buyer Beware.
Whoever ends up with it will be told about what ever I do to fix it. I think its stupid for me to take a motor that clearly was assembled only a few hundred miles ago, and put hundreds of dollars into when one spring broke and messed up one valve.
@rusticretreater (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=57554) , I need to know, tell me why you think this carb is absolutely filthy?
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The intake and venturies looked much worse in the far away pictures. I can see now that it is not nearly as grungy as I thought it was. Having been an avid street racer, part of my regular upkeep was to keep the carb clean and well adjusted. Just an opinion rendered and somewhat off base.
I can see both sides of the debate on how far to take the fix. One added bonus of this thread is it can be looked at by the potential buyer. It puts the ball in their court. They like what they see great if not someone else will come along that does.
Quote from: Jeff on December 31, 2022, 08:07:57 AMWhoever ends up with it will be told about what ever I do to fix it.
If you are going that route (I would do the same) you might want to put it in writing on a receipt along with "as is were is" and both sign it and each have a copy.
X2. Whenever I sell a used vehicle or machine, I write a bill of sale with: AS IS WHERE IS, NO GUARANTEES OR WARRANTIES EXPRESSED NOR IMPLIED. Clearly stated, signed and dated. Along with "I have stated the current condition of the vehicle and how it was used, and what was repaired, while in my possession. And answered any questions to the best of my knowledge that the buyer had at time of sale."
Running too rich, I think.
Quote from: Peter Drouin on December 31, 2022, 06:53:15 AM
Quote from: Corley5 on December 30, 2022, 09:35:46 PM
Bubble gum it together and send it away :)
I could never do that with anything.
That's just the way I am.
You got that right! It's one thing not pointing out every defect the car has but being sneaky and not telling something that's a big deal is pretty weak! What comes around goes around!!
Quote from: Resonator on December 31, 2022, 12:15:54 PM
X2. Whenever I sell a used vehicle or machine, I write a bill of sale with: AS IS WHERE IS, NO GUARANTEES OR WARRANTIES EXPRESSED NOR IMPLIED. Clearly stated, signed and dated. Along with "I have stated the current condition of the vehicle and how it was used, and what was repaired, while in my possession. And answered any questions to the best of my knowledge that the buyer had at time of sale."
Wow 😂. Sold as is with a signed and dated recipient they signed from them I keep and one to them they keep is all I've ever done
I suspect this engine was assembled by a hobbiest, probably not unlike myself. If they left valve seals out, what else? If I need to worry about if othe springs might break because this one did, then I probably need to worry about whether the rods were torqued correctly, and every other point in the engine. Right now I still haven't found what I need to even identify it. As you can see from the pics, it has a roller cam thatvcould be stock after 1994.
I found this number stamped on the block below the drivers side head.
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Quote from: SwampDonkey on December 30, 2022, 01:07:40 PM
Joint pain ain't fun when there is stuff to be done.
Has anybody tried Omega XL that they have on the Infomercial's that people claim it works for joint pain and does wonders! I thought about trying it
Guys, it was obvious (to me at least) that Corley's statement was "tongue in cheek" and figuratively speaking which was why I made my Reply $219. Jeff's goal to begin with was to fix whatever is wrong and sell the Mustang. I have seen no indication that his intention was ever to cobble it together and take advantage of or to defraud anyone. To indicate otherwise is unfair to both Corley and Jeff.
So with what you know and where your at on this situation what are you going to do.A minimal fix Or should I say how deep are you going to keep going
I agree there is nothing wrong in fixing what needs fixing to get running decent. It could end up running good for quite awhile. I don't think your going to get a whole lot more doing a full blown motor overhaul. Plus the deeper you go the more you might know that you don't want to know and a very good potential of opening up a bigger can of worms
Broken valve spring makes me wonder about "coil bind" caused by incorrect cam lift, push rod length, and rocker ratio.
If the combination of those is wrong and the springs compress down tight it will bend valves and break springs all the time.
A return on the investment in a complete valve job on a car that's going down the road will never be realized. Spend those dollars on a backhoe. This car sounds like a can of worms. Bubble gum the old nag together and send it with a list of what's been done and an "as is where is" statement. Caveat emptor :)
Quote from: Walnut Beast on December 31, 2022, 02:01:03 PMHas anybody tried Omega XL that they have on the Infomercial's that people claim it works for joint pain and does wonders! I thought about trying it
I tried it and continue to use it. I had lots of pain in my hands and it definitely helps. I take 2 per day. If you do try it, and you find it helps, call them and complain about the price. They will lower it before they let you cancel.
Sounds good! Thanks for the feedback. I'm going to order some 💪
There are a bunch of websites and youtube vids on identifying your ford engine. Apparently they made it as difficult as possible. Folks are talking about counting bolts sometimes. There were even production engines with the a windsor short block and cleveland heads.
This seems to be a roller block, perhaps. It has a roller cam. Uou can see the dogbone set up in this picture.
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Since you have the head off pull a lifter and see if it has a roller on it.They usually have a tie strap between the intake and exhaust lifter for each cylinder to keep them from rotating so the roller stays true to the camshaft. I see the tin plate between the lifters but can't tell zooming in if that's what that tin is for. Never seen any like that but I've been out of building engines for a long while.
Brent
They do.
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Yep, I can see it now.
Brent
Roller blocks were made at the very end of the 351w production run 1994-96. Some of the roller style engines manufactured had plastic/fiber retainer instead of the dog bones which created more of a lifter tunnel which aligned the lifters instead of the small metal dog bones.
Also, I have read that the roller ready block F4TE designation was also delivered with flat tappet lifters as well. The engine serial number is located on the passenger side bottom edge of the block. There is a flat surface in line with the freeze plugs under the starter. F= 1990's, 4= 1994, T = truck, E = Engine.
The roller rockers are probably used to increase the valve lift ratio over stock from 1.6:1 to 1.7:1. This possibly got some spring bind and caused your spring to break. I would say buy a good set of springs from Crane, Lunati or Eldelbrock, etc. and put them on and hope for the best.
Stacy's friend Joe, has a brother with a repair shop in Cadillac. Joe knows the guy at the automotive machine shop that his brother always uses. Joe has the head, and is stopping by his shop to see if he can get an opinion on how to procede.
Here is the best pic of the casting numbers Ive got yet. I still cant read them. I'm waiting for a mirror.
Not much accomplished. Two more bad days with Sawyer.
Here is my block casting number. I think I have a 1994 351w roller block originally in a truck.
F4TE-6015-AA-19
That was a common thing around here with Ford and Chevy guys alike, putting a truck engine in their Sunday drivers.
The first head is done, ready to pick up. New exaust valve and spring, all new seals and the exaust seat ground. I need to get the other head off and sent in, but ive been sick since we got the pup, plus wiped out on the hardwood floor landing on my shoulder the day Sawyer died, so I can't reach in and lift or anything at the moment. Hopefully I have some able body help this weekend.
Good call getting them sent in and should run pretty good when you get everything back together. Spring time will be coming and somebody will be looking for a little summer time fun
Thanks for the update on Mustang Sally. ;D
The engine casting number F4TE-6015-AA-19 is simply a version number. This casting number can be used for years and doesn't change until a major revision is made to the block.
Alongside of this number should be another id code number-letter-number-number. Something like 4C22 which means 1994, C is the third letter and therefore the third month March and then 22nd. That is the true year and date of the engine. You might also find a similar number on the cylinder head by the first rocker arm at the front of the engine.
https://www.classicmustang.com/decoding-part-numbers/ (https://www.classicmustang.com/decoding-part-numbers/)
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1162066-300-date-code-engine-date-code.html (https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1162066-300-date-code-engine-date-code.html)
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Is that four hours to mill one cylinder head or two? Either it took too long or they're underpriced @ $60/hr and padded the hours to compensate.
Half hour minimums, but it was only $24
Total was 153 something. One head. Valve, spring, seals, cleanup mill work
Read across. I believe that's a 4cyl head. Looks like $24.00 and change on that line item which if that's the case I feel @Jeff (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=1) got a Smokin' deal. From what I can tell he's well on his way to selling a sweet running Mustang.
Glad to see things are going your way Boss. Hope the shoulder is healing up and the pup is resting at your feet.
Brent
I guess you beat me to it. Great deal none the less
Brent
Now are you glad you just took it in instead of jacking around with it 👍
Well the plan was to do what ever fixed it right for as cheap as possible.
In the process of taking the other head off, I found 3 more rocker arm studs that were not torqued. They came out when removing the adjusting nut. So, Im glad it needed seals, prompting me to take the other head off.
Looks to me,once they degreased the first head, it was leaking at the header on all cylinders dure to the carbon on them. Those bolts were not tight either. You guys know what you usually run into on anykind of exhaust bolts
Good deal! You can feel good when you get everything done and running good! And stand fairly firm on a respectable price knowing what all you have done. Start window shopping for your new digging toy!
Well at least the problem was part of the cure, it would've been miserable snapping of a bunch of manifold studs, too.
Here is the first head with what looks to me like carbon from exhaust leaks, and the other head where 3 studs backed out just loosening off the rockers.
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Are you going to paint them before you put them on? ;D
I think so. Depends on how cold it gets.
You know... You're gonna have to leave the exhaust studs loose so there is a leak to get that Mustang hot rod exhaust sound. Just sayin'...
Its got glass packs. My feeling going into this is what would I do if I was going to keep it, and so far, this is it.
I can't count the times I've been building the new house and the mister of the house is busily knocking out 20 years of honeydews so they can put old one on the market. The door finally goes on the laundry room the week we move out :D
Got my gaskets ordered, it was only $25 more to get the entire engine gasket set, so thats what I did. I'm up in the air on head bolts. These look good, but I don't have length specs, or a way to measure stretch if I did.
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I don't know Ford but if it's built wouldn't studs be worth the money?
The machine shop said these were stock springs for a 94 351w, as they are a rollercam engine
Nice blue. Head bolts, If around $100.00 I'd get new ones.
Slightly increased compression unless the head gaskets are thicker. The stock 351 rollers had roller lifters but not roller rockers. Its my belief that the roller rockers have extra lift over stock, so there is even more stress on the top of the engine.
Given the issues you have found during your disassembly, I would go with new head bolts. You can buy them for $60 all the way up to $200 for a stud kit.
I'm buying new bolts. It also looks like this engine was out of a 94 f-150 truck most likely. Im taking a head gasket down monday when I pick the gasket set up at our local autovalue to compare. Its more money than online, but if it aint right, itll get right, many times at end of day. Save the time aggravation.
The only thing worse than paying too much is not paying enough. Good call
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It's amazing when a guy looks back on projects that you were stewing around about and how much progress can be done with just a little action
A little is right. Ive been sick since the day after we brought the pup home. Just the last few days have I been doing anything but bonding with a puppy and a kleenex box. (Box 3)
Havent found the appropriate bolts with a part look up that I can be sure of. So I guess I better measure bolt lenghts
I had that same dose Jeff for over 3 weeks, RSV virus. Never had it in my chest, just a little throat tickle. But nose was plugged and ran constantly. :D I've never had a cold before that for at least 8 years. From what I read about it, only take Tylenol, not even cough syrup. I tried cough syrup for the tickle and it made me cough more. So I ended that. :D
I'm supposed to avoid Tylenol due to my bout with pancreatitus in 2010
Yeah, well I can see why. At least from my limited understanding of digestion.
The otherhead is ready for pick up, head bolts and assembly products should be here this week, and I have the engine compartment about ready.
I'll need to paint the head when I get it, then when I get an extra pair of hands, I'll start assembly. The belt tentioning system on this engine is a farce. I'll be redesigning that before getting it running.
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I lost track, with these rockers is the geometry ok or was this because something is bottoming out?
The problem seems like it came from the rocker arm stds not being torqued and coming loose. There is no sign of hammering or damage to the rockers or pushrods.
Ill be glad to hear it run again.
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I got the other head back. They put a new spring in that one as well due to it being gooshy. My compression was fine on that cylinder before tear down, but the spring didnt make spec.
Any reassembly tips?
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Depending on how clean the interior of the engine looks, you might spray some kerosine into the block to wash out dirt, antifreeze and old oil. Look in the valley and see if there is any casting flash on openings that could be removed. 3M pad or similar to clean the block surface and the edges of the intake manifold. Don't forget the front and rear edges of the block where the intake manifold seals against the block.
Look closely at your head gaskets. You should see imbedded o-ring type material around holes for the water jacket and oil return. If not, put gasket sealer around these holes on the cylinder block and heads. Same for the intake manifold. Ensure the facing of the distributor opening is clean and free of old gasket material and the distributor mating surface is also clean.
Usually there are neoprene seals used to seal the ends of the intake manifold. Put a dab of gasket sealer at each end of the seal where it meets the cylinder head.
Assembly lube on the roller rockers/valve ends, push rods. They will be dry until the oil circulates.
I've been seeing on line where they say the small block for intake manifold end seals are notorious leakers, and it appears this one was leaking. Ive seen where they say toss the cork end seals and use only the permatex ultra black liberally, set the manifold, the n give it some time to set before you torque it down. One of my front intake bolts was obviosly corroded.
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Can't wait to hear it roar. I've enjoyed watching you fix that engine,my brother had a Gran Torino with a 351 Cleveland it was scary fast. Is it possible to put Cleveland heads on a Windsor block or is that a different engine altogether? Pretty sure my other brother put Boss heads on a 302 in a mustang, heads came off an engine out of a wrecked police car.
The cleveland is a completely different block and engine. Quickest way to tell is the top radiator house on a cleveland goes into the block, on a windsor, into the intake manifold.
Some bolts go into the water jacket and end up corroded like that. The bolt doesn't look in too bad of shape. As long as the needed threads are in good shape, it looks reusable.
Cork does deteriorate over time. Silicone sealant that doesn't turn hard is a good option. The only problem with the silicone stuff is that it squishes out making an unsightly line so you might want to use a putty knife or something to remove the excess while you can. It can get pretty messy if you're not careful. Or use a razor blade after it dries. Black silicone on a blue engine will stand out a bit.
Assembly started. Heads on, valves adjusted, Headers bolted on, Intake manifold torqued down. I'll leave it set a day before I continue.
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Lookin' good smiley_thumbsup
smiley_thumbsup smiley_thumbsup
Be rumbling over the road in no time. ;D
Hopefully rumblin down the road with you sittin on a new hoe ;D.
Looking good.
Jeff, You may get it running and driving so well you won't want to part with your Mustang 8)
That thought occured to me so I slapped myself then banged my head on the wall 3 times.
Almost time to rock-n-roll.
My procedures were wrong for adjusting those roller rockers because I was illiterate. It was bothering me, so I dove deeper and discovered at least I recognized that this didn't make sense, even though I had no understanding of roller rockers until now. Ill need another body to watch springs for me as I rollover the crank for each valve again, so I can readjust. Nobody right handy at the moment to help, so I'm in standby.
Need to drain the old gas, then add the antifreeze.
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Go get it man! Everybody is waiting with bated breath! 8) Tomorrow is THE day?
Actually, my u.p. neighbor just sent me a photo. The cabin is calling Cedar and I and I may just answer.
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Tell The Cabin I said Hi.
Looks like ya have no snow at da cabin, just some real thick frost. :)
Great to have good neighbors that help keep the drive open and also send pics of how it looks. Hard not to buzz up there at the first opportunity.
Go for it.
You and your buddy Cedar have a good time at the cabin. :snowball:
Another once over and I found a vacuum line off yet, and a couple other things, but it's ready to try and start as soon as I connect the battery. Gas tank drained and replaced with 5 gallons of recreation fuel. Ouch.
Problem. We have a major storm coming, the mustang is in the back corner of the barn, the water outside is off for the winter, and I have one small extinguisher. Better safe then sorry. Once I can get the mustang to the front door of the barn, that needs to be clear of snow, where I can get it out if something went wrong if there was a backfire
fire.
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A small backfire, caught on video, looks flippin huge! :D
It is running??
Well that sure got interesting in a hurry!
Start up procedure:
Grab the phone and dial 9, and then dial 1... now crank the ignition... :D
If dat's small, I don't want ta see big. :o :D
Fuel delivery seems good.
Initial timing was off. Plus the lifters adjusted a bit tight. Tammy's brother stopped in today, and he's a Ford guy. He set me straight and we got it running pretty good, but I need to adjust the lifters one more time to make it real good.
You can feel pretty good and confident when you get ready to sell it for a good price!
That is good news.
Bet it sounds good to you.
The car looks like a mini excavator to me. :)
So it really is a fire breathing monster!
I've got a little bit of video to try and put together of getting it started.
A mini excavator and maybe a little front wheel assist tractor too. ;)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10001/InShot_20230301_075828109.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1677676171) (https://youtu.be/waxZzEUfWAI)
Jeff,
You gotta be careful posting videos like this. No telling where some of these whiz kids will have those flames coming from. :D
I'm no mechanic but it is all looking good to me. Good luck on your horse trading venture.
It lives! Sounds great from my poor laptop speakers! Congratulations, getting closer to digging!
Uh, looks a bit hazy in there, remember to crack a door or something.
Dumped a bunch of oil on a header when adjusting rockers and only put a couple bolts in. Thats what made all the smoke. Burning it off. The big door was open behind me. And we kept turning on the floor fan. No heat! You can probably see my breath in the video.
Start 'em Oxford!!!!
If you're from Maine, you know what that means. ;)
1971 Mustang Races back to Life! - YouTube (https://youtube.com/shorts/o3qPrhnsLNU?feature=share)
There!!!!
That has a nice rumble to it.
Its ready to race @Peter Drouin (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=12511) now. ;)
Quote from: Jeff on March 05, 2023, 09:54:22 AM
Its ready to race @Peter Drouin (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=12511) now. ;)
:D :D :D :D :D :D Good one ;)
Waiting for the snow to melt, for a ride? ;D
There is a 3ft wall of frozen plow snow keeping it from the road
Peter, only 3 feet of snow before the race. You better get that tranny in!!!! ;D
Way to go Jeff !!! Thank you for sharing.
Quote from: thecfarm on March 05, 2023, 08:43:09 PM
Peter, only 3 feet of snow before the race. You better get that tranny in!!!! ;D
Too far to go for a 10- second race just to show Jeff my tail lights
:D :D ;)
I'm going to try to go down to the New England Drag way, just to see what it will do in the 1/4 mile. I think they have a day when the public can run.
Peter, no need to race.
You and Bruno need to make a 1226 mile trip to Jake's Project. move_it
Quote from: Peter Drouin on March 06, 2023, 08:50:53 AM
Quote from: thecfarm on March 05, 2023, 08:43:09 PM
Peter, only 3 feet of snow before the race. You better get that tranny in!!!! ;D
Too far to go for a 10- second race just to show Jeff my tail lights
:D :D
Wow, I never considered you might want to race in reverse! ;)
:D :D :D :D :D :D ;)
Quote from: Magicman on March 06, 2023, 09:02:24 AM
Peter, no need to race.
You and Bruno need to make a 1226 mile trip to Jake's Project. move_it
That's one way, right? I did think hard on that. With the $$ for a plane or truck to get there and sales lost. I would be in the thousands for me.
Peter didn't I read on here where you said "you can't take it with you when you go to heaven"? :D
Wish you could make it down but understand if it isn't in the cards.
I did close for the winter and still buying truck loads of logs. The wallet is a little thin. I won't talk about what I spent on the HOT ROD this winter. :o :D
So, if I said I was going to start the listing off at $18,500, would you guys think I'm crazy? You'd probably think that no matter what. :D
Always good to list a little higher than you think you'll get, most people want to negotiate for a "better" price even if you list low.
@Jeff (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=1) do a little searching. I think I seen one not as nice as yours on Grand Rapids Marketplace for 21k. If you are on FB I think you can post it in other cities and get better coverage than Northern MI. Just beware of the scammers
"You can always go down in listing price, very tough to go up." (Old saying). ;)
1971 Mustang HOTROD. NAMED NOTAMACH! Sell or trade for Tractor Backhoe?? - YouTube (https://youtu.be/w8iZSwl6Ll4)
$ 20,000 all day, I would start at 25,000. I would not sell my HOT ROD for less than 30,000.
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Something like this...
Oh boy oh boy would that be fun.
It looks pretty good in the video! It's show time now! Start window shopping for what you want!
My cousin bought a bigger Kabota last fall, I don't know the size, but it's shiny new. He has a building to tear down and comes in handy stumping on a Christmas tree farm and making roads. ;D
That Kubota was on a craigalist ad asking 42000. I was just thinking your car is very nice, it should be worth a nice machine. Especially since they aren't making more like it. :)
Im afraid that is probably closer to 2.5 cars worth of machine
Jeff, I don't know the market out your way and I am not a motor head, but I just did some checking on the Hemmings site and I only saw one example of that car with a 302 engine that was less than 20k. It was stock, needed work, frowsy, and was 17k. All the others are way north of 25k. You might want to do some looking over their for a comp machine to see where you should really be. Seems like 30k should be closer to your bottom line. Just a thought. You did a great job and are now selling a runner. Get it on the street for some test runs and see what you can do. Also, look for a wider audience to market it to through the custom car dealers if you haven't already.
I dunno Jeff, some people have nice old pickup trucks from the 70's they sell for $40,000 grand. ;)
Looks nice in the video! smiley_thumbsup
Guessing at least 1 repaint? Looks like a clean-solid-straight body that's a major selling point, body work is crazy expensive nowadays (if possible could get pic's of the underside too). Also could list if there are any upgrades in wheels, tires, exhaust, brakes and what it has for a transmission. I see the console shifter, that's desirable for a muscle car. move_it
As for mini excavators, I check the ads here regularly. The dealer near me has used (pre-emissions) machines listed in the mid to high $20K range for a 8,000# size, and mid to high $30K for a 10,000# machine. Often they are "open station" (no cab), finding one with a cab is nice, but adds more to the price.
I feel this car was put togeter and painted like a guy like me. A hobbiest. Doing the best he could with what he had. The difference is, I would not have tried to paint it. The paint aint great. Dust, orange peel, but its good enough until you are next to it picking it apart. There is two places I found where the paint is bubbled from a rust spot. Both could be covered with a coin, but still there. Nothing would be number matching. The diff, maybe. The car, according to the vin, was originally a 302 and red. Someone did a great job hiding the red. I had no idea, even after laying upside down under the dash for hours working on the wiring. I found one small speck of red on it. A paint chip on the inside of the rocker panel, about the size of a b.b.
I imagine if you took a mediocre stock 71 mustang, and wanted to get it to the point this one is, you would spend some cash. Heck, I have $700 in it fixing the engine this time.
The underside needs some clean up. Some washing, and some rust reformer to take care of some spots of surface rust under there.
I've not listed it yet. I guess simply, because I don't feel like dealing with yahoos right now.
QuoteNothing would be number matching.
That makes it good as a "driver" car, new owner can build it how they want. They aren't tearing apart an all original Mach 1 and can change it to their liking. ;)
There is a site called Bring a Trailer (BaT) that people list to sell cars. You can look up the make model year and see those for auction now, but also what others sold for. It may give you some idea.
Do you guys think that part might go under that nut? I have no recollection of it taking the mustang apart, but seems I used a socket to take the carb off, so may never have noticed it
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I absolutely cracked up while taking some pictures under the car. It was an awesome find on the bottom of the plastic aluminum Radiator shroud. :D ;D :D
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I have the same setup on my 3 carb, Did not see anything like that on mine.
Off hand it might be a clip to hold a rubber brake line in place.
I knew there was a reason your Ford had a little getty- up. ;D ;)
Supposed to be a guy coming to see the mustang at 6pm.
Question? Would you guys demand cash, or how would you make an exchange? I don't want him taking the car anywhere until I somehow know I'm legitimately paid.
Dead presidents don't bounce...
For an unknown buyer, especially from out of my town, I take cash or Venmo only on larger purchases. Venmo is free for a personal account, sets up in a few minutes, and you tie it to your back account. The money is transferred to you nearly instantly and you can then flip it right over to your checking account. I have the money before the guy leaves my driveway.
I prefer cash if at all possible. I look the bills over to be sure they are legit, if they come paper banded by the $1000 from the bank, always a good sign. I see a lot of car ads listing where the final purchase must take place at the car owners bank too. That could be to release a lien on the car, or just to electronically transfer funds and know they cleared OK.
Handling that much cash requires "IRS" notification on both ends. I prefer a cashiers/official bank check which is easy on both ends.
Check if not cash, but the car doesn't leave until the check clears your bank.
A recent purchase with a check, that was the deal I made as the buyer. My check cleared the following day and I picked up another JD lawn tractor (diesel, snowblower, deck, leaf blower).
A cash deal, the buyer knows where and who you are. Not out of the question that someone returns at a later time
A cashiers/official bank check has already cleared so there is no waiting.
The last tractor that I bought was ~half bank check and the rest cash. That way if there was any "negotiating" the cash was the variable.
Quote from: Magicman on March 20, 2023, 02:57:25 PM
A cashiers/official bank check has already cleared so there is no waiting.
As long as it is a known, preferably local, bank. Can always meet at their bank and have them draft the cashier's check in your presence.
Probably the easiest way is to go to his or your bank at the same time and do the cashiers check or wire transfer title sign exchange to make you both comfortable and write up a simple sales receipt for him and you that's signed by both as is condition.
If he's comfortable with it. After he looks at it have him wire the money while he is there at your house then give title and receipt when you confirm funds ar in account. Most big equipment transactions are wire funds and get it
Cashiers checks are NOT completely secure. You would be surprised at how many forged ones are out there. Most banks place a hold on deposited funds on large bank checks as a result.
If you want to be secure, have them wire the money while they stand there, you will have a FED tracking number and clear funds in your account within 24 hours or less. ACH is also another fast, secure, option.
There is a fee for using Venmo, I wouldn't recommend it. Could be $200 or $300 for what you are asking, not sure of the percentage. Going together to the bank is the best way nowadays with all the scammers.
The wire funds will clear right away. My last big transaction was wired a hour before the guy got to my place and when he sent the text he did it I called my bank and it was in there. Done it several times,
Actually depends on the time of day the wire is sent, it has to clear the FED.
One thing that I know is there are many bogus cashiers checks used to buy old cars. A friend of mine sold his 1935 Chevy online. The buyer sent a car transporter with a bank check to pick it up. Transaction done and next day he tried depositing it. Was a fake worth nothing and his car was gone. Luckily he did not drop insurance on it and the insurance company handled it as a theft handing him a check after the standard waiting for recovery period. I think a direct transfer is safest where you hand over the car once cleared or even a personal check and not turning anything over till cleared . Remember the IRS can audit you on large deposits and this year there will be many new agents looking for bonuses. Check cash at least with a marker if you don't know the buyer. Good luck with the sale.
Cash. If the buyer can get a cashier's check at his bank he can get cash.
Pending at asking price. He and his wife will be back on Friday, their day off to meet at our bank. Fingers crossed it all goes through.
See!! Remember when you started that project and now!!! Hope it works out!!! Start looking 👍👍👍👍
Been a lot of etransfer fraud up here. The display on your phone will say transaction complete, but apparently with some banks they allow a reversal and the banks don't tell you about that when they sign you up. So thieves know this and reverse the charge as soon as they are out of your sight.
Fingers crossed it all works out! smiley_thumbsup
I like bitcoin for large transfers of money. It avoids banking notifications.
Very secure and instant via the lightening network.
You should be able to get a mini ex for 20k. It will have some hours on it. Just look at the condition of the hoses. That will tell a lot. Also look at the idlers on the tracks. Shake them to see how the bearings are. Also look at the final drives. See if the fill and drain have been cracked before. It's the easiest set of fluid to change that nobody does.
Good luck with that sale Jeff!
See ya Stang! Nice ta meet ya, won't miss ya! :)
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Woo-hoo! 8)
Jeff,
Hope you will be able to buy what yo need.
Ron
Now you have big boy iron fever. Good luck on your quest for a digging machine.
Got a line in an extenda hoe hope to see it today or tomorrow. Old guy has it north of town, unlisted machine, tip from a friend, we shall see...
Terrific news!!
Way to go Jeff!
Old Michigan saying: "As the 'Stang window closes, the 'Hoe window opens".
Wanna see extendaphotos asap, Boss!
Harold is trying to track the owner down, this all may lead to drinking at the American Legion before it's over... :D
Best deals, and sometime friendships, ever made was a over a beer. I have no experience, so take it for what it is worth. :D :D
Happy!!!! Happy!!!!!
On to the next chapter.
Boy you sure did turn things around for yourself in a few short months! Good on ya man! No, be a little patient and find the machine you will be very happy with. WOOO HOOOO! 8)
Quote from: Jeff on March 24, 2023, 12:35:36 PM
See ya Stang! Nice ta meet ya, won't miss ya! :)
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Little did you know how great those taillights looked on "stang".
Received a nice thank-you note from the Coleman vet memorial today.
Yep, another Ford being towed down the road.
Okay guys, opinions. This is close to home but 362 miles round trip to the cabin.
Its a little intimidating, $9100 is where I have it right now. Seems really worth it, but its big!
March 24, 2023 - YouTube (https://youtu.be/whyEJwtHYzQ)
Is it a Case 580M ?
Forgot the vid duh!
580E made in the early to mid 80s ( need full serial number to pinpoint year) iirc there was a brake setup change thru the years). Cummins 3.9 4B motor which is as good as it gets. Fairly solid older machines. Look for cracks in the machines main frame they were known for that expecially if used for heavy loader work. Make sure the fwd/rev shuttle shifts firmly and quickly. Get it warmed up and make sure itll push under load.
Other than that pin and bushing slop, leaks, etc.
Lot of machine for 9k.
My only negative is its a 2wd backhoe.
I operated a Case 580E years ago, and was a very reliable machine. Is this a foot swing?
You would be surprised at how quickly it won't seem big, especially after digging a hole for half a day.
Sounds like a good price on that machine!I worked at a Case dealership for a couple years and the 580B was the model then. 1975 and 1976.They sold a bunch of them.Built in Racine Wisconsin at that time.I went up there to school a couple times.I think a new 580B was around 15,000$ at that time with open cab and no extenahoe but that was a lot of money back then.
Quote from: Southside on March 24, 2023, 10:04:10 PM
You would be surprised at how quickly it won't seem big, especially after digging a hole for half a day.
You would know with all the big toys you have!!
Oh there have been plenty of times I think my excavator is way too small and slow, maybe after an hour of the same thing, doesn't help I get bored quickly. - she's 52,000 lbs with a 40" bucket on it.
He says only one brake works, and it can throw ya crooked on the trailer if you are not careful loading and unloading. Hey @Corley5 (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=27) what do you think it would cost to have this hauled to the cabin?
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Hope it works out ! That extenda hoe would be really handy.
That's a mighty powerful machine. I assume you have looked up the specs, but in case you hadn't Here's a LINK (https://www.tractordata.com/backhoe-loader/000/2/1/216-ji-case-580e.html). Click on the 'attachments' tab to get the bucket and hoe specs.
Not sure how you made out on the car sale price vs. the cost of this machine, but is there enough wiggle room to take it to a good shop and have them go over it and fix the major stuff? Also, did the guy demo it under load. I saw him moving everything around, but things can start happening when it gets a load on it. I didn't see it move either. Did you drive it? I'd wanna do all that before I signed.
Best of luck Jeff, you deserve it!
Most of the used Case backhoes don't have working brakes.Might not be an issue at your cabin.
The Ford 555 series backhoes for sale almost all have working brakes.
All will have their own quirks and gremlins.
I had to repair/replace the brakes on my old Oliver after I bought it. I was told that it was more important to have brakes than a throttle. ::)
Appears that it had a repaint within the last few years, used home made decals. Check the usual stuff, engine leaks, blow by, exhaust, gland seals and hoses. I'd check the E-hoe hoses first, looks like they get the most flexing. I'd ask if it ever had forks (or other attachments) pinned on the front seeing those ears welded to the loader bucket. As said check for cracks in the frame, also check for cracks in the loader and excavator bucket. Back tires are getting worn, may want to price 2 (and/or a set of chains).
Looks like a decent machine, 2 wheel drive and open station go against it, but that would keep the price down too.
I had the same machine as my first Case. Still going to my knowledge. How many hours? The injection pump looks to have been changed. Also the extendahoe hoses look to tight or stretched. May have been moved a bit. Mine looped above more but gotta watch catching on low roof or branches. Should do a full filter and fluid change. Will be expensive. As mentioned the 2 wheel drive is the only downside. They're meant for solid ground. It's heavy and will bury itself real fast. Hydraulics should get you out but it'll look like someone tossed dynamite in. To me that price is good if everything checks out. Size wise in about a year you'll want a bigger one, 4x4, ac, .....
Best of luck.
The hydraulic fluid was recently changed with filters he said due to replacing a $500 hydraulic hose. I want to go back and investigate more of what you guys have brought up, but we are in the midst of an ice storm.
I only know from my own experience with my new Holland lb75b. I really appreciate 4x4, but I get stuck regularly anyway, you'll want to be sure you can drag yourself around with the hoe. It's, unfortunately, very easy to sink in and get stuck, then it's pretty sketchy to get out until you are used to being a couple feet in the air moving yourself around, it feels like you'll tip over always. Check that stabilizers and loader will get all the wheels way up off the ground and hold you there.
Advice otherwise is good.
A good tune up cost me almost 2k, fluids, filters etc. And I need to change out milky hydraulic fluid again now that I store inside.
The machine looks pretty good. I don't like the stretch on the extendahoe hoses either but I also extend all the way and back it up a few inches, so it may be OK. Expect to spend 100-150 bucks on every broken hose.
9100 is probably a good price if things are tight. Plexiglass rednecked onto the ROPS may be nice to keep cold wind off you. It doesn't take long to get real cold if you are out doing some digging for a couple hours in 30 degrees.
Keep in mind you'll also likely want about 200+ bucks for a case of grease and 300 or so for a good grease gun, I love my battery op Milwaukee.
Congratulations on selling the mustang so quickly!
Quote from: chevytaHOE5674 on March 24, 2023, 09:17:43 PMiirc there was a brake setup change thru the years
After a certain serial number the brakes changed and do NOT using brake fluid and use a mineral hydraulic oil instead.
The frame cracks are usually near the hyd drain and on the seam inboard of that running forward, the tanks are built into the frame, there will usually be a slow leak if it is cracked.
The loader arm cracks are usually near the pin at the top of the loader arm, neither are deal breakers just something to look out for.
The steering cylinder lines are kind of in a low spot and can be bent or broken easily in rough ground or deep mud, it's not a ATV, the more humps, stumps, mud and bushes you go over the more likely to have troubles. Even tall grass can be bad, I had tall grass wrap around the drive shaft and ruin the transmission seal on a 580C we use to have.
Be patient, don't jump at the first opportunity unless it looks like a sound machine. :)
It is foot swing, 4 forward speeds, one reverse, no clutch, so what ever kind of drive that would be. I talked to Mark the owner about coming back over and driving and shifting it when the weather breaks, maybe Monday or Tuesday. He said no problem and said he would find a place for me to dig a bucket or two of something.
I asked him about the shifting and he says it really good, but he says the steering gets a little loose going down the road if you get bouncy, but thats basically how its been used the last nine years it sounds like going down the road from family and family friend projects and such
I've never owned a case backhoe but those around me that do, swear by them. I drove a 2wd older one for the first time three days ago in the woods. I thought it was going to tip over at every bump. If you can hold off until the project my neighbor has two of them and you can pick his brain.
Assuming it does check out as sound then the only issue is soft/wet ground. Mine is a Case SL 4x4. I use it all over my property ( 110 acres). Even with 4 wheel drive I'm careful about where it goes by time of year. In icy conditions I don't even take it out. On soft wet ground with full bucket the front sinks. They're not as tippy as they feel but on steep slopes you gotta be careful. Thinking about it if you are wanting to use it year round 4x4 may be worth the wait. I couldn't go back to 2 wheel drive. Many I've looked at tend to be pounded hard. If you could find someone nearby that knows those machines well it may be worth a few bucks for an inspection.
Some bounceyness driving it is the nature of the machine, with the weight of the digger in back causing it. That's why the back tires have to be heavy duty rated for a backhoe. I'd check the front steering too. Lift the front wheels up with the loader, check if there's play in the kingpin/steering knuckle. Also have someone turn the steering wheel, and watch for slop in the tie rods and steering ram. I know on my 2wd John Deere that was a weak point.
Overall the case backhoes I've been around have been pretty good machines. Everyone is bringing up good points. Being two wheel drive is going to present plenty of challenges in soft and or wet ground. Does that model have a differential lock for the rearend? I'd make sure it works if it does.
It does have a step differential lock
The 2 wheel drive is what is worrysome. Much of my property it just cant go, but the areas where I need it, it can, depending on conditions, but it would be oh so perfect to expand my small pond.
If I got it stuck bad on my place, nothing I or the neighbors have could get it out.
I have a 2wd backhoe much like that case. Even with diff lock and chains in the back it is about useless in the winter on anything but tabletop flat ground. Soft ground is a no go for sure (but even a 4wd backhoe isn't going to float in a swamp).
If I was to replace mine now I would buy a mini-ex. Only thing a backhoe does better than a mini is travel up and down the road.
I'd lean hard on an excavator for that pond over any wheeled machine. You have a lot of soft ground much of the year. I'm thinking of a lot of areas on trails that an excavator and blade can put into shape. ;D Soft ground and trying to move a bucket load of mud bearing down on them front tires will convince you mighty quick. ;D
My experience is that if you need 4WD to be digging something such as a pond then you should have waited until the ground dried out more because that false sense of security of having a "stuck stick" is going to get you stuck harder, I have the photos to prove my theory.
There is a spot out back I need to work on, it's by my irrigation pump, low ground, high water table. Last summer it was bone dry and I should have been down there doing the work but because it was bone dry I was too busy trying to keep everything alive so it didn't get done. Well, now it's too wet and I will absolutely wait until the last day of this summers drought before I begin to think about going in there. With heavy equipment and wet ground patience is a virtue.
Quote from: Jeff on March 25, 2023, 11:48:44 AMIt is foot swing,
Which is sorta a first generation and not as user friendly. It takes both foot and hand co-ordination. Maybe not a deal breaker but certainly a consideration. Same with 2wd vs 4wd.
I ran both foot swing and stick knuckle boom loaders for years. Im sure the muscle memory after 18 yrs is gone
One other thing that I am going to add. I own a backhoe and a trackhoe. The trackhoe is considerably newer and stronger. There are pluses and negatives to both. The biggest advantage the backhoe has is mobility and the bucket on the front. If your main purpose of this machine is digging in one location than I would wait for a small excavator. If you are looking to move lots of dirt from one area to another, with distance, than a backhoe is a plus. Another advantage the trackhoe has is the 360° rotation.
For Jeff's use, I am in the backhoe camp. If I was buying one for my farm, I would also choose a backhoe.
Backhoe getting r done! Sure the excavator would be nice but for doing multiple projects and not breaking the bank. That unit seems like it would be fine plus you know it runs and works. They can pull trees out and many tasks you will think of when you have it
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I did all my yard work here on about 3 acres with a 4WD tractor with a bucket and digger attachment. But I am on hard solid ground that I can drive across in the heaviest rains. On wet land I shift to a tracked machine. Jeff's ground can become a quagmire in a heavy rain compared to my 4 acre building lot. At my woodlot I deal with wet arteries everywhere with islands of good hard ground. I have a window from June to October that I am able to take the buggy out the trails.
The ground I work on decides what I prefer to use.
A backhoe is sort of a "Jack of all trades" machine. It can do many functions, but is not as good as a tracked excavator in digging. One thing I definitely put on a machine is a thumb, for lifting logs, brush etc. Swamp matts or even wide boards help for floatation in muddy areas too, or getting unstuck. (Having a sawmill has it's advantages). ;D
It aint a machine that will run on my trails, but its a machine that can build trails it can run on.
The cheapest small excavator I've seen is over 15 grand and it was small. There aint no more mustangs to sell.
I remember seeing a pretty nice sawmill. Might even fetch a premium, if signed, like a Richard Petty autographed hood.
Just sayin'
I hear ya Jeff. On a tight budget you just have to make the machine do the best it can do and hope it holds together. Like Dirty Harry would say, "You've got to know your limitations". ;) With the way things have been the last few years, stuff is a whole lot pricier for fairly weathered stuff. I'd never find a used excavator for less then $20 grand up here, and she'd be pretty weathered. :D
Just like owning a manual sawmill. ;)
I have heard many times how much faster a hyd mill is.
There is an old saying about a dance partner too.
Have to use what you have.
Is MR truck goin' up for sale next to go to a new home? ???
MR Truck is not going anywhere. :)
If you like the machine ,realize it's usefulness and limits and it fits your budget go for it you'll figure it out.
For years I fed cows , pushed all the haylage ,corn silage up in the bunk and moved all the manure some of which was stacked in a field,Using an old John Deere 500b 2wd with the backhoe removed. Talk about something with little traction oh boy that was it.
It's what was available certainly wasn't the best machine for the job but it got it done 365 days a year. Using equipment like that teaches you how to get things done that others say can't be. Takes a bit of patience and the learning curve can be frustrating it can make you a better operator however.
Little things like when scooping material with the bucket try to keep it level or even better slightly uphill goes a long way towards backing up without getting stuck.
You mention expanding your small pond. Depending on the shape on your pond that can be tricky with a backhoe. You back to the edge of the pond and start digging. But you can only swing and dump dirt so far to the side often still in the pond.
As the owner of a backhoe and multiple ponds that I've attempted to dregde i can tall you it isn't a real easy project most of the time.
Glad you got rid of the nag😎😎👍👍
I'd hold out for 4wd. Front loader work with 4wd is much more efficient in any conditions. Slippery pond spoils will really try your patience with 2wd. Trucking rates are pretty high these days. Harrison to Detour is going to be a pretty big bill.
Lot's to think about! Definitely look at all the advice and options. I wouldn't jump into and commit to that unit until you really weigh all options. You are holding the bag of money so your in the drivers seat. Tell the guy you really want 4wd and offer him a couple grand less. I almost never give the asking price
Those controls are a bit hateful. The foot swing is not an issue, but having 3 different sticks for the boom, jib and bucket can be. But they can be learned and work fine.
It's been so long since I did much work with a rubber tire backhoe I hesitate to even comment much. That could be a solid machine that will dig holes and make trails for you, and you have the money for it. I'd look at it like this- how much could you sell that machine for? If you gave $9000 for it, and used it for a year, could you get your money back out of it if you wanted to upgrade?
I would definitely second having someone that knows these machines go with you to check it out. Little things you may not notice could cost thousands to fix, and really sour the deal.
This is way more stressful than I imagined it to be.
My guts use to really rip me up bad when I made a larger purchase decision. But over the years it's gotten way easier, as earlier choices I've made have turned out pretty DanG good. That doesn't imply I'm an impulse buyer by any stretch, without lots of hymin' and hawin'.
I once pumped a pond dry onto our garden out in Hays. spent a day digging a perfect pond, 30 x 60 with a 5 foot deep end. found 55 1 foot long Koi I did not know I had. I had put 12 fish bait sized gold fish in few years before. filled the pond and replaced the fish, went to work. Came home to a dry pond and dead fish. may have to re-seal the pond if you did too deep.
Would an Excavator rental for a week do most of the work? That would be about 2 grand.
Then there is always option 2, get bye and be happy with what that property provides now and keep that money in a safe place for when it might be needed for something more important. Sometimes you need to reflect on things or maybe shift gears. Our desires to be able to do certain things that are conflicted by constraints can get overwhelming. ;)
When in doubt do nothing at all.
Dosen't help me at home. Kinda get the "If you choose not to decide you still have made a choice" response. :D
Well the easiest part of this is usually the hardest part. TAMMY keeps saying to buy it!
I expect to go over with Joe this afternoon, with permission of the owner, and crawl around it. I do have a line on someone that will haul it, but needs to research to give me a quote. He is a trusted friend of a trusted friend, so I think Ill get what ever the fair cost is.
Tammy says go buy it and drive it home, here to the house. Frost laws are on, and it may/will get muddy. Its about a ten mile backroad drive. I could give it a good going over before sending it north.
If I pull the trigger on it and get it north, it really is the perfect rig other than the 2 wheel drive. It gives me something of value to trade work with my u.p. neighbors because it'll go up the road. I'll use it prudently once its mine, Time will never be an issue like it always is renting or hiring, so, I'll keep it out of the mud.
Jeff
Also, with the boom and bucket you can saw up some timbers and make mats that can be laid in place to drive on/over swampy areas that are "iffy". Should help the 2wd problem.
Good luck with the decision.
I had a 2wd 550 Ford backhoe for a while.I put a good set of studded chains on the rear.It got around really well.It helped that the Ford had working brakes on both wheels. Brake steering worked really well.
Excellent on frozen ground.
Great to have a supporting wife.
When I worked for my Grandpa and our only machines were a 2wd John Deere 410 backhoe and an old IH TD9, we would lay sawmill slabs across sift areas for access with the backhoe.
Jeff, that machine will do a ton of work for you. They don't do well on slimy surfaces, but otherwise backhoes get great traction because of the huge amount of counterweight hanging off the back.
Get your brakes fixed, because most of them have steering brakes that can be very useful.
The one situation where this machine will really excel, especially if you have an area you can get material on site, is load and carry to where you are making your roads. Also, if you can put forks on it, it will work awesome for other material handling.
Like someone else said, a rubber tire backhoe is like the Leatherman of construction equipment. It may not be the best at any one thing, but they are definitely the best at being able to do everything.
While I have never ran a 4wd backhoe, with the extensive experience I do have on 2wd machines I don't know if it's something I would seek out anyways. Actually, those types of machines are often labeled "front wheel assist" and there's a reason for that. Backhoes are so back end heavy, a lot of the tasks you are doing with the FEL leave your front tires barely touching or dangling. If it's soft, it isn't keeping those little front wheels from going down. They'll just be spinning when they go out of sight😁 Andn it's another differential and driveline to maintain.
I can see where the FWD would make a difference in just driving, maneuvering to get into position on slippery ground.
As far as I'm concerned, your biggest asset for maneuverability I'd hanging of the back. Sinking in on one side? Hang the hoe out off the other side. Spin out? Give yourself a push. Stuck? Pull yourself out.
I came to the CTL outfit I worked for with zero forwarder experience, and I started doing things that other operators were kind of scratching their heads about. Those little counter balancing tricks were all learned on a 2wd rubber tire backhoe😊
Like I said before, I'd want to check it over for any big issues. Especially the pivot/knuckle area for the hoe, that is a high stress area that can show signs of abuse, and it's an expensive area to fix. Obviously you don't want any boom and frame structures busted up, then the engine, transmission, etc should all check out. If it does, give the man his money and drive it home 👍😊
I bet he's getting it. He's probably driving it home now. Waiting for some new pictures
Joe and I went over and looked at it again, i drug myself over yhe snow bank around it and just pointed the camera here and there. It was typically grungy, buy Nothing screamed at me. I'm posting them without having looked at them yet.
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It didn't live among our rocks :)
The worst looking picture was second to last. In my opinion. Not even sure what I was looking at. Everything else looks like a 15 year old machine, or older, with a little bit of wear. Any machine that is of that age is going to show some age. The few pins I looked at seem to have minimal wear on them. Check the amount of slop in the pins and bushings of the loader end and the swing of the hoe.
That looks like the floor board. Was surprised to see a drive shaft under a 2wd. What does that run on a case?
Picture #10 looks like a possible hydraulic leak, an old hose that could be abrading on the hard lines. Ideally a full wash with degreaser (or a steam jenny) would help pinpoint any leaks.
Those rear tires look very similar to what I had, (Titan R4 industrial backhoe) those are around $1000 each.
Another thing may not have been mentioned take a grease gun and check all the zerks take grease.
That is all stuff ill do after. I do not want to mess this up.
Nothing in those photos looks scary at all.
What do ya figure a set of adequate chains for it would cost?
A quick search on tire chains r us showed $600 or so for a set that will help tear up the lawn more and $2,200 for a set that will dig a nice, deep, hole when you start to get stuck. Logging mats are cheaper, just saying.
Jeff do you have clearance enough for chains ? It's hard to tell by the pictures how much is there.
Good question
Just watched the video again, I think you're good. The fender kind of goes straight back and doesn't follow the tire contour down around. That's where I've seen them catch usually.
I probably got a set that will fit, that you can have (but you got to come and git um) ;D It'll have ta wait a bit as they are under a bunch of snow.
Sold!
If you get the unit get a good 15k + electric winch with a quick plate receiver you can mount in your bucket or elsewhere and in your truck receiver with quick battery plug and that will come in really handy for many things from recovery to various winching
Quote from: newoodguy78 on March 26, 2023, 08:52:59 PM
That looks like the floor board. Was surprised to see a drive shaft under a 2wd. What does that run on a case?
That driveshaft comes off the engine/shuttle and drives the transaxle
Jeff, I don't see anything glaring either. I see a few hoses that have been replaced. That's good. The swing cylinders on the hoe may need rebuilt or at least new wipers, no deal breaker by any means. I'm just trying to find something to point out🤷😊 It definitely doesn't look hammered.
If I was selling that machine and you made a fuss over a grease zerk not taking grease, I'd figure you were just trying to whittle me and probably get irritated. More important is if the pins and bushings are not slopped out. I don't say tight, because I wouldn't expect a machine of that age to have like new pjns and bushings. As long as things are not wallowed out and bushings wore through, I wouldn't worry about it. The only area I'd be really concerned about is the how pivot, like I mentioned. The pins and bushings are much more difficult to replace on there, and because of that tend to be ones that people let get really loose.
Although it is tough to tell in a picture, none of the pins and bushings have that hammered out and wallowed look to them.
You driving the 10 miles from the seat? :)
I would. Add auxiliary/magnetic blinkers if necessary and let Tammy follow.
What kind of brakes/braking system does it have? They have to be fixed before driving it home. I drove my old Oliver across town once without brakes. Driving slow and dropping the front bucket is not brakes. ::)
He says one wheel brakes, the other does not. Im debating on if Id drive it home or to Harolds. Same distance, but no big down hills to harolds.
You are gonna wanna rub a bit of TLC on it and fix da brakes. Wouldn't that would be more convenient in your pole barn? Maybe Harold has a good place too?
QuoteThe swing cylinders on the hoe may need rebuilt or at least new wipers, no deal breaker by any means.
I seen that too. I don't see anything sopping out of the gland, though should wipe them down and check for any deep scratches or gouges in the chrome rod.
You need to find the serial number, iirc its on the left side of the of the machine around the dash. Should starts with 9, or 17. That will tell you what style brakes the machine has, either way if you want both brakes working it might get costly and labor intensive. It could be as simply as low on fluid, or a bad master, or bad piston seals or disc's in the rear axle.
Swing cylinders are on their way out.
I see plenty of Operators, Service, Shop, and Parts Manuals on eBay.
I don't know if you've done it or not, in the past, but roading a backhoe always feels very sketchy to me. I still do it but the bounce and rocking action makes me nervous. Lack of one brake would make me nervous too. All you need is to be coming down a hill, need the brakes, and do a donut because only the one works...
On another note, for some pond expections: my pond is about 90'x50' or so, and maybe 5-7' deep at full pool (which it never is). I can reach out, into the pond, only 10-15' before I lose effectiveness of the hoe. If your banks are high around the pond it'll be worse, and you can see what happens when digging in the picture below, both at 11 o'clock and 6 o'clock It didn't really accomplish what I was hoping for. My plan is to eventually line the pond after deepening it but I may try to drain the whole thing to dry it out for a while ahead of time.
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Quote from: newoodguy78 on March 26, 2023, 08:52:59 PMWas surprised to see a drive shaft under a 2wd. What does that run on a case?
The torque converter & forward/reverse are bolted to the engine and the 4 speed and rear differential are at the back, the driveshaft is in between them. You would have to go back to the 580B to get one built like a tractor with a all components bolted together.
As far as driving it home 10 miles is not bad, with only one brake I would not go over 3 gear on a flat and not busy road, for hills second gear before you start to go up or down the hill and use the brake gently before you over speed so you don't need to apply aggressively.
And as with all backhoes and farm tractors put a triangle sign on the back and be prepared to see idiots passing you on a blind corner with a double line and oncoming traffic.
And yes they steer kinda funny and the faster they go the funnier the steer. Take your time.
I looked into chains for mine and they did not have safe clearance.
X2 put a triangle on back and take your time. When it comes time to haul it farther, the factory spec's it from 10,660# to 11,280# (I think the higher number is for 4wd or with cab). A 1 ton dually with an equipment trailer would be able to pull it.
Quote from: Jeff on December 06, 2022, 01:38:05 PM
Hey, I need a tractor with a backhoe, or something, that can excavate and move dirt.
I OWN A BACKHOE!
Whoo hoo! Congratulations!
@Resonator (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=37685) , from what I can see the working weight is over 14,000 for the extendahoe . I cant find it now, but it said the factory specs state not including buckets, plural, and to add 400lbs to extendahoe models for additional front counterweight.
Congratulations! smiley_thumbsup
I was just going by what TractorData had listed for a 580E weight. The guy that bought my John Deere 310A (similar size machine) used a Ram 4500 (or 5500) cab and chassis with a trailer to haul it.
Congratulations! Hard work paid off to get what you wanted 👍
You're in business now. :)
It can be hauled on a tandem dual or 3 axle trailer pretty easily by a 3/4 or 1 ton truck. Most fun part maybe loading it with only 1 working brake.
Congratulations 8) you'll find all sorts of projects for it.
As for going down the road with it just remember one thing well actually two. One just because it'll go 20 mph doesn't mean it has to it'll get there. Two when taking left turns especially on main roads keep your head on a swivel for impatient drivers. I've had a couple close ones.
An old mirror affixed to the rollbar or canopy is a great improvement if it doesn't have one already.
I'll have someone follow me with flashers. I sure want to go get it!! Saturday we got ice, then 8" of sloppy snow, then, the sun has been out for 2 days since, and its mostly dirt back roads home that are going to be sloppy messes. Its about 9 miles. I'd be happy enough to take an hour to get it here.
Well, if you drove it home when it was icy, you wouldn't need to worry about the working brake grabbing and spinning you around!😂
I'm not understanding all the fear and hype of having one working brake. At worst, if moving fast and on gravel road, the braked wheel will slide along while the other three wheels will likely hold their position. Done that many times, sliding down a hill or on a gravel road, even a black-top asphalt macadam road. One wheel locked up and sliding. Not even a hint of "spinning around". So don't see any need to fear the single brake, but do think two working rear wheel brakes are a good idea as soon as Jeff can work it into his schedule. True dat sliding a wheel makes the other wheel go faster due to the differential. But applying the one brake just enough to not slide will cause the unit to slow down.
Jeff, I think you will be just fine and you have the ability to know what and when to get it done. And be safe doing it. Your "seat of the pants" will tell you just what to do and when. 8)
Congrats! Safe motoring. I believe you and Tammy have earned this equipment swap. Make it happen, captain. Sorry, something I used to hear at the mill. I know you'll get plenty of use out of it.
A longer time ago than I care to remember I bought a Farmall cub, drove it home 30+ miles in da pouring rain. I will admit I was cold and mighty wet, but I was smilin'. :)
Get a width on them rear tires so I can see if them chains can be made to fit.
Check the tire pressure before heading out too if you can. Low pressure in them fat rear tires will really make it work hard to get to were your going. The tires are probably going to feel a bit square too from sitting around.
Congratulations and make sure there isn't something you want to do at the house with it before north.
Geez I go to KansasCity for a weekend to help my son move and look what happens. Congratulations! You're gonna have a whole bunch of new friends up there in the U.P. when they find out you have a hoe and a sawmill.....
Let the digging begin!!!!!
Keep your eye out for a couple pieces of stout channel or angle iron. They can be laid on the chrome part of your lift cylinders when working on the engine compartment area. Keeps the arms up out of your way safely and makes doing about anything easier. Pieces need to be about the same width as the gland nut.
I've got a couple of pieces I keep in the shop just for that. Sometimes I chain the bucket or forks back to the center part of the loader arms. Done this and hung a chain fall for pulling or setting an engine amongst other things makes for a handy safe mobile pick point.
Quote from: beenthere on March 27, 2023, 04:39:02 PM
I'm not understanding all the fear and hype of having one working brake.
He's never run an old IH706. You never knew if you had brakes, all hydraulic.
:D
My uncle had one that got away, no working parking brake. And dad had it happen to on his own. Only neither were the drivers. :D :D
Having 2 working brakes for driving down the road wouldn't bother me one bit. Heck half the time I never use the brakes when roading a tractor they stop rolling pretty quick.
My warning with 1 brake was loading it on a trailer. Get angled up the ramps of the trailer and hit the brakes and suddenly one front tire is hanging off the edge. I warn of this as I've had it happen 2 times loading tractors onto a trailer. Hit brakes tractor rolls back 1 foot but front end shifts sideways 2 foot.
Well done! i see some wetland wildlife habitat improvement projects ahead.
Hey Jeff buddy, I have a project that needs doing and I heard you have a new toy. :D
Well done Jeff, now the real learnin' starts. At the controls. 😊
You'll enjoy it!
btw: is it time to change the thread title to "Diggin'it. Yep, I am!" 😁
I have both a backhoe and mini ex. The backhoe gets used a lot more. It takes a bit longer to figure out how to dig a square hole, but it's doable.
The backhoe will also be easier to work on too. The hoses will be the issue, just find someone you can bring hoses to have them made up.
Quote from: Jeff on March 27, 2023, 01:36:23 PM
Quote from: Jeff on December 06, 2022, 01:38:05 PM
Hey, I need a tractor with a backhoe, or something, that can excavate and move dirt.
I OWN A BACKHOE!
Well, that happened pretty quickly! ;D ;D 8)
My old boss always said a good backhoe operator is never stuck. Watched him load one on a step deck trailer with no ramps once...
Send him up. I'll feed him. :)
Congratulations Jeff. I have found when it's damp on my hill the brakes on my little tractor just slide. That's where my e brake comes in. Curl the bucket up and drop it on the back. Stops it every time. With a hoe on the back you even have an anchor 😲. I understand anything with a triangle on the back gets the right of way here in NY. We expect videos of the trip home.
I have been look for something like that for 4 years and yours looks better than any I have seen plus you at least have brakes on one side. I just gave up looking with the new epa clean water act basically putting brakes on my idea to open up my pond because I am not classified as a farm. Hopefully you don't run into any of the new classifications and need big bucks worth of delineation and engineering.
Geez I go to KansasCity for a weekend to help my son move and look what happens. Congratulations! You're gonna have a whole bunch of new friends up there in the U.P. when they find out you have a hoe.
Now..where are those gold rocks located? :D
No he's not gonna go diggin' for gold. He's gonna go diggin' for Jello pudding rocks. :D
8) 8) 8) 8) Drive it home. Brakes are a luxury. You've got one side. Drive it around his place to see how it handles and head out. I'd be leery loading it on a trailer though. Ernie Vallier, Vallier Trucking used to haul for Ponsse. He's out of St. Ignace. He used to pick up loads down here as fillers if there wasn't a back haul for Ponsse. Ernie may have retired but last I heard his son was doing it. Google Vallier Trucking for a #.
As an aside, all the farms around here use excavators (not minis though). Roads, stumping Christmas trees, drainage work, cleaning up old building sites, brushing field edges with hydroaxe head. Been a guy all winter doing field edges, snow's no object. ;D
A mini would come in handy smoothing my hummocky trails. But the thing is clearance overhead, suddenly narrow trails are wide trails because of limbs rubbing the cab. I'll take the hummocks, throw some spruce rails across the bad dips. :D
Congratulations Jeff! Backhoe buying day is a big day!
Other have mentioned it but get ready for people to ask for help when you have it. I suggest "helping" for inflated prices. I didn't do that and now I'm kind of the nice guy, with a backhoe, that'll help the neighbors. For what it's worth a lot of people will make some good trades for backhoe work.
Congratulations!
I had a tractor that didn't have brakes from the first day I owned it to the day I sold it.
The heel of the front end loader bucket pressed to the ground is the best "hand brake" around. The only time I wished I had real brakes was when I slowed to a stop on one of our local asphalt roads and when I drove down it later I saw I had "rubbed off" off a couple of the road reflectors that mark the center line. Oops.
the L brake has not really worked on my JD 850 since I got it. always tilled the garden in a clockwise direction so I could augment the steering in the loose soil.
Doc
Brakes on the JD 850 are pretty straight-forward to fix. Exposed for easy repair, and maybe just new brake shoe and adjustment. Hope not a seal leaking oil onto them.
https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10180/Brakes_JD850.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1680016077
https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sidebyside/equipment/70311/referrer/navigation/pgId/212714807
I have a case :)
Thanks BT. I have only had it for 30 years, so maybe time to fix it. :) :) :) My buddy Dallas occ. roads it 2 miles to his place, but usually trailered.
Here is maybe a starting place for the Case 580E brake work.
Case 580e Brakes adjustment Service - YouTube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3zDIIUS6yuk)
See link to a manual, but suspect you already have that.
Case 580e Super 580 E Backhoe Loader Service Repair (https://catexcavatorservicerepairmanual.com/case-580e-super-580-e-backhoe-loader-service-repair-workshop-pdf-manual/)
I feel like it's already known but I love the guys over there like I do here...
Heavy Equipment Forums (https://www.heavyequipmentforums.com/)
Tons of backhoe info, a bunch of good guys who want to help, and bs.
Wait Are you saying there is another Forum out there on the internet? :D
Um, Ill try to get my info here on this forum thankyou. :)
The first act of prudence. I drove over this afternoon to check out the route home. About 4 miles of it is back hilly gravel roads, and several of the grades are solid white ice. I dug several holes in my sleep last night.
Congratulations on the purchase. Case backhoes from that Era are relatively simple and known to be reliable. One thing that most people don't know is that Caterpillars first backhoe used the Case design for the hoe part.
Quote from: Jeff on March 28, 2023, 07:36:48 PM
Um, Ill try to get my info here on this forum thankyou. :)
Forum etiquette, as I understand, is to refrain from pointing out other forums. just sayin...
Gravel road is good. Traffic probably goes slower, and if you have to "drag anchor" to slow down you won't gouge the blacktop. move_it
Are you having a sleep over there with it tonight?
I hope it's understood that my mention of the "other forum" on the internet wasn't to discount any knowledge or experience here. They spend their days elbow deep in grease, where here it's elbow deep in sawdust. Different expertise for different subjects.
We'd have a lot less experience or knowledge going around online if we didn't have other avenues to explore or links to share.
For what it's worth I'm sure I've also shared links to the forestryforum.com more than any others.
Wait for it to open up to move it :) FWIW I don't think there is a really functioning brake on any of the equipment here. Not good and not by intention!
Now once it is on site, they are very capable machines. The other day I mentioned that when you are building I call it running for the roof. The second you start building you are fighting the weather, and it will accommodate you :D. The sun broke out, Michelle hiked up the mountain and began getting the snow and ice off the deck. We had a large beam to set to her left. This was that bugger winter 2011/12, I've just gotten to the top. I borrowed a backhoe in the neighborhood and hiked it up the mountain. I can't remember which, its been too long but it was in that size. I don't believe I ever had a rear on the ground. I came up from the right and it is almost that bad. They are handy as a pocket on a shirt.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10017/beyer_004.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1680088893)
I'm sorry folks. But any thing with out a working brake system IMHO is just an accident in waiting. Case in point, my good friend, mechanic by trade was pulling a truck into his shop, to raise it up with his lift to fix the brakes, ( he knew they weren't working ), got the front end on to the floor and had to give it a little gas to get the rear end in. Then in that split second (he saw in slooooooooow motion Murphy showed up ) he realized that it wouldn't stop before he hit the back wall of his shop. Not only did it rearrange the wall, it caused minor damage to the truck, he pierced the hood of the truck with a nail. Moral to the story, FIX your brakes before Murphy shows up. I personally have two things I want to happen, 1) start when i hit the key and 2) stop when i hit the brake !!
on cars and trucks the old emergency brakes still work if the hydraulic part is broken.
This won't budge with rhe emergency brake pulled
Is it too big to load on a rollback flatbed?
Would have to check height but it would be very close to overheight on a rollback. Also would need a tandem axle rollback.
You'd be over height on a roll back (guessing close to 15'). :o
We're all used to the brakes on automobiles working, and autos have way less rolling resistance.
Of all the old cable skidders I've been around, only one has working brakes- mine. And they are so difficult to engage, like with your head in the top of the cab standing on the pedal, that I never use them anyways. They were like that from the factory is my understanding.
The only time I can really remember using the brake son my Grandpa's old backhoe was using them for steering.
There are a lot of calculated risks I am willing to take, usually when the liability factor dosen't include others and especially those who hire attorneys.
The problem here is what if something goes wrong, what's the worst that can happen? In the woods BB might wreck a valuable log, or damage his own truck. On a public way, a whole lot of bad things can happen and in the worst case scenario actual criminal liability can apply. Top that off with the fact the defective brake is a known issue, guarantee you that the seller will testify he told Jeff, and to me the potential downside is greater than the savings of paying to haul the machine home.
Quote from: Resonator on March 29, 2023, 05:05:51 PM
You'd be over height on a roll back (guessing close to 15'). :o
Depends on the machine. My backhoe would ride on a "typical" 45" deck height rollback and be a bit under 13'6".
My book for a Case 580SE lists exhaust height at 113", legal height is 162". 162-113= 49" deck height to be legal which most every rollback I've seen is. Also no problem on any deckover gooseneck or step deck flatbed.
I'd double check those measurements but height generally isn't a problem.
Depends on the truck and machine yes, machines like that we hauled on a step deck or drop deck trailer. Also depends if the top of the cab or the top of the boom is the highest point. Either way measure to be sure.
Lay the boom back and ill bet the farm under height.
This is the same size machine that I've hauled all over. Been stopped and scaled by DOT a few times and always legal weight and height isn't even a question.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/18040/20190917_133330.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1680131467)
Probably wouldn't hurt to ask the local dirt contractor move it for you. He maybe happy to do that for reasonable especially if he is slow. My buddy, a retired Trucker hauled my excavator home with his big tex trailer.
Frost laws are off in Clare County now :) ;D 8)
No kidding? Hard to understand that!
Seasonal Weight Restrictions - Michigan County Road Association (micountyroads.org) (https://micountyroads.org/business/seasonal-weight-restrictions/)
I bet the back roads will be fine and I wonder if you do already have it home. be smart and plan ahead. use the motor as a brake. In rural areas, the farmer construction guys get right of way.
I'm betting Jeff has the situation well in hand. 8) :snowball:
Always take any advice from me with a grain of salt. We never worried about lawyers because we didn't have anything for them to take anyways🤷😊
The backroads over there are a sheet of hardwhite ice, i just checked yesterday.thats why it makes no sense.
Sure you can drive it but what if! I agree with Southside. Trailer it.
If you do drive it I would get a slow moving sign for the rear and have somebody with flashers on in the front and rear
Quote from: barbender on March 29, 2023, 09:20:50 PM
Always take any advice from me with a grain of salt. We never worried about lawyers because we didn't have anything for them to take anyways🤷😊
There is always your freedom to loose. Criminal negligence - the standard for manslaughter in most states - is basically "Would a reasonable person do ...." The problem is these days the "reasonable person" standard is likely to be determined by a jury of peers who have never once done 95% of the things we take for granted as being part of everyday life.
I mean - you and I grew up having BB gun fights, can you imagine today?
So a reasonable person buys land in the tundra, and a backhoe. Is that where you're starting from :D
Ice is a different story. good decent weather, drive the sucker home!
I 100% get where you're coming from Southside. I even agree, mostly😁
How heavy is the machine?
Here, many of the backhoe operators hire out as weekend equipment transporters for a reasonable fee since they have a CDL for their operation and the correct equipment to haul stuff.
The problem here is what if something goes wrong, what's the worst that can happen?
It's a backhoe, he can bury the evidence. 🤔😂
Locally, the construction contractors would charge $1000 minimum to float machinery. They have this 'standard' rate, and by the way they all talk it's as if they claim that cost with their own haul equipment. Like it's literal costing them $1000 to go hardly any distance. What's it cost to sit in the winter months in their yard?? :D I mean I don't mind giving them a wage for the time, fuel, plus $200 for 10 miles. I don't expect a bill for 4 days labour to go hardly anywhere. I know a lot of equipment sitting this time of year. This is why people find alternatives. ;D
Like some of you say, if there is an accident, they will investigate. That means they will go all over both vehicles.
Congrats on the purchase! I'm sure you'll figure things out.....In the meantime I'd be searching for a used 36 inch ditching bucket, it would make slinging U.P. mud go alot faster. Put in many hours ditching with one like that on the road crew. Have fun!
Scott B.
You might find one here:Cook Equipment | Allegan, MI | Used Construction Equipment and Parts (https://www.cookequip.com/)
Quote from: YellowHammer on March 29, 2023, 11:26:24 PM
How heavy is the machine?
Here, many of the backhoe operators hire out as weekend equipment transporters for a reasonable fee since they have a CDL for their operation and the correct equipment to haul stuff.
It is over 14,000 lbs according to the gentleman I bought it from. I'm going to try and get a hold of a tree service guy I know today. I think he retired last year, but maybe he didn't sell all his equipment. He had a hoe this size.
I have paperwork for a 580SE and it lists the tractor and loader at 12060lb, 82" front bucket at 760lbs and 24" rear at 270lb.
Putting it at 13090lb.
If it has a 30" rear bucket its like 36lb more.
Does it say anything about the front counterweight if it is an extendahoe? This one also has foam filled front tires, and i think the bucket may be bigger than a yard, but not sure on that
Yeah forgot that it adds 800lbs.
Puts it at less than 14000lb.
What kind of grease would you guys recommend? I need to buy a case.
If it is available near you, I've run Mystik #2 Synthetic blend for years. It flows good in the cold like a #1, and stays in your pins really well. I'd say try a few single tubes of grease of several types before you commit to a case.
Ice covers roads and hill are not a good start, those industrial tires are very poor on ice.
This is from a 580 Super E owners manual. Not sure what the difference would be from E to Super E
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/18975/Case_580_weight.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1680187451)
QuoteI need to buy a case.
I thought you just bought a Case... ;D
My opinion the best grease is the grease that gets used regularly. I use Mystic #2 multi purpose in the green tube.
I'd suggest get a good battery power grease gun too. (Of course I'm not of the "One pump here, two pumps there" routine, I'm more of the "grease it 'til you see it oozin' out" routine.) :D
Difference in an E and a Super E is the super E has a turbo and more power. Weights are the same.
Quote from: Jeff on March 30, 2023, 10:02:18 AM
What kind of grease would you guys recommend? I need to buy a case.
I always have 2 different kinds. I keep a moly based grease in a hand pump gun for all loader bushings, or anything that sees impact loading. I also keep a lithium based in a battery grease gun for spindles, bearing, and everything else. I'm not picky on brand, just type.
Looking at that operating weights chart da normal weight operator is only 175#. :D
I use Schaeffer 260 (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DKA5C0Y?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share) grease and have been pleased with it. A case has lasted me around 3 years so far. I don't grease as much as I should. 285 bucks on cramazon.
I'm also a huge far of the Milwaukee (https://a.co/d/d2u8Mwn) grease gun, about the same price as the grease. I've got Lock 'n Lube couplers that I like too.
I thought I was a big deal when I got my Lincoln. batts. will not hold a charge within a year. I have gone back to manual guns. freq. greasing is important if for no other reason, to keep the zerks open and functioning. for us part timers it isa project for a day when we have time and patience to fix those, and it may go awhile without grease. :o
Precisely why I don't grease as much as I should doc. I know it's a catch 22 but the headache of greasing will occasionally make me want to drive my backhoe into a lake.
I think I've only charged the Milwaukee battery once in the 2 or so years I've had it. For the did something dumb thread (and maybe I mentioned it there) I thought my battery was broken when I went to charge it the first time, I just didn't push it into the charger hard enough.
Quote from: chet on March 30, 2023, 11:25:09 AM
Looking at that operating weights chart da normal weight operator is only 175#. :D
Judging by the local road crew in my area, you better add another #100 for that mid section ballast they carry around. ;D
This is the tool you need. And all the other greasing goodies. They have some of the best grease around but expensive https://locknlube.com/collections/grease-fitting-rejuvinators (https://locknlube.com/collections/grease-fitting-rejuvinators)
Looking forward to more pictures!
Quote from: doc henderson on March 30, 2023, 12:49:09 PM
I thought I was a big deal when I got my Lincoln. batts. will not hold a charge within a year. I have gone back to manual guns. freq. greasing is important if for no other reason, to keep the zerks open and functioning. for us part timers it isa project for a day when we have time and patience to fix those, and it may go awhile without grease. :o
Don't know what one you have. I've got a 14.4 Lincoln grease gun that sat around for several years new and have charged and recharged many times. Sits around and is fine. Hand grease gun never gets used
All I grease is a lawnmower and a SxS. Manual grease gun comes out once a year. I don't put much mileage on either. If I was on a SxS for long miles every year, I'd still use a manual and more often. If I had a farm fleet of stuff to maintain, I'm sure my thoughts might be swayed. Then again, probably not. I've never owned a battery operated drill or wrench. Never trusted them over my own sensitivity for how much is enough or too much. Manual tire wrench has a torque gauge I dial in on the end of the handle. :)
My brother used to put grease blocks on equipment so you could stand and grease everything from one spot. used plastic tubing. It worked great as long as it worked great. you have to pay attention or you could be pumping it on the ground and not know it. some bearing with seals, you are better off using a hand pump so you do not over do it and blow out a seal. my guide roller they say just a half pump a day.
my Lincoln is an 18 v
Project Farm has a video on testing grease. Interesting.
Synthetic Grease Better? Red Line CV-2 vs Royal Purple. Is Lucas Red-n-Tacky Better? - YouTube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gMouBNhF1Bw)
On a new or tight machine, the load bearing pins and bushings should be greased every work day, or 8 hours, or tank of fuel, at least that's the recommended interval for my New Holland and Kubotas. That's when I do mine, I put the fuel pump nozzle in the tank, grab the Milwaukee battery gun and start shooting.
It's not unusual to use a half tube per machine, per greasing cycle, especially the excavator, that thing eats grease. On an older machine, the greasing interval should be whatever it seems to have had in the past. If the pins are loose, a little looser won't hurt. My farm equipment will eat a tube of grease per machine and not look back. Certainly, grease is used as a lubricant but it also flushes water, dust and dirt out of the joints. So I'm also of the grease it until I see it spooging out.
I keep a manual grease gun for the mulcher with specialty grease, same for the planer, and another for the boat trailers.
I buy Good grease, of several brands and don't really discriminate. But generally use John Deere, Kubota, or New Holland loader grease, sometimes off Amazon at half price. I will also use Red n Tackey, which is good and easy to find at any auto store.
I always tell my customers that any grease is better than no grease and grease is much cheaper than pins, bushings, and bearings. Lol
I use the 20v dewalt grease gun because my hand doesn't like squeezing 2-3 tubes of grease into various equipment in any given day.
When I was a kid everyone had those spring hand grip strengtheners. My dad had a grip like a vice. I never ran a grease gun enough because I don't have hands like he did. My grandfather was a boxer and trainer. I missed out on that to. :D
But I certainly can understand the fatique issue on the hands and tendons for sure. No joke. When I first ran clearing saws I had pain from fingers up to my forearms. Not anymore, except a little bit of tendentious on the trigger finger sometimes. And you can get saws now with thumb trigger.
Quote from: Jeff on March 30, 2023, 10:02:18 AM
What kind of grease would you guys recommend? I need to buy a case.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/59254/20230330_170414.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1680210358)
This is all we use for our fleet of 150+ pieces of equipment. Sticks to pins better than anything else we've tried. Everyone will have their own preferences, but the brand/type of grease isn't as important as actually greasing the machine. Any good #2 lithium grease will do fine.
The stuff I use is in a gold colored tube Patrick, otherwise the same stuff and the same experience with it.
Steel pin/steel bushing machines need greased daily basically. We used to grease the loader on hard digging skid steers twice a day, those little one inch pins can't hold much grease.
I was always impressed with the Ponsse logging equipment. The forwarders had a grease interval of 40 hours on the frame and crane. They use they bimetal type bushings that have a copper or brass lining that is dimpled. You could grease more than that like I did when I first started, but you eventually get sick of cleaning the excess off of your windshield.
The Huldtins 360 grapples had nylon bushings, with a 2000 hour grease interval😳
Quote from: chet on March 30, 2023, 11:25:09 AM
Looking at that operating weights chart da normal weight operator is only 175#. :D
Well this was from 35 years ago...... but I was still 10 pounds over.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/57881/A3F0F32E-09E8-482E-B483-3F509077A2EC.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1680216598)
Uhh, don't let this guy tow it !
I like the Red n Tacky seems to hold up and work well. It's gotten tough to find locally lately. When replacing wheel bearings I use Napa extreme duty bearing and chassis grease, comes in a tub and do them by hand. If the hub has a fitting it gets the red and tacky as regular maintenance.
I've heard good things about that Mystic, gotta keep an eye out for some and give it a try.
Depending on how much "pond" work your doing maybe you should get a marine grade grease.
Quote from: barbender on March 30, 2023, 05:22:32 PM
The stuff I use is in a gold colored tube Patrick, otherwise the same stuff and the same experience with it.
Steel pin/steel bushing machines need greased daily basically. We used to grease the loader on hard digging skid steers twice a day, those little one inch pins can't hold much grease.
I was always impressed with the Ponsse logging equipment. The forwarders had a grease interval of 40 hours on the frame and crane. They use they bimetal type bushings that have a copper or brass lining that is dimpled. You could grease more than that like I did when I first started, but you eventually get sick of cleaning the excess off of your windshield.
The Huldtins 360 grapples had nylon bushings, with a 2000 hour grease
Biggest difference between the gold tube and purple is temperature rating. The gold is better for colder temperatures so maybe it would be better for Jeff's location.
Patrick have you used the red n tacky? Just looking for some real world comparison. What type of equipment are you using it on.
Jeff if you get digging in the pond or muddy conditions frequent grease intervals are a good idea. That slurry is ridiculously abrasive on pins and gets into everywhere.
Patrick, that makes sense. The gold tube Mystik works great in the cold up here, I don't think I've ever even seen the stuff you use locally.
sounds like you need the variety pack. with some high speed wheel bearing grease for the trailers.
Wow, this got sidetracked in a hurry...all i ever wanted to know about grease from a story about a man and a backhoe dream :D
I need to remember to check back here and look into mystik next time I buy grease, I guess, lots of positive results.
I'm about a tube per greasing as well.
While I don't have the lock n Lube zerk unsticker I do have a version of zerk unsticker that hasn't been very useful for me. I've even heated a zerk up with the blowtorch first but not been successful. I'll usually have a handful of new zerks on me while greasing, and something pokey to clear the hole. I'd say it's nice to have a good supply of new zerks, make sure they are the right size.
Doc, man, I'd love to have a central greasing hub, I don't think I'd trust it, like you mentioned, but boy, if it worked that'd be lovely!
I got one of the piston driving tools. you fill with WD40 and then hit it with a hammer to unclog and open a zerk with dried grease. I made a thing you could attach, and filled with some WD and then fill with compressed air. but after a while I was concerned it might explode.
Quote from: doc henderson on March 31, 2023, 06:51:10 AMI got one of the piston driving tools. you fill with WD40 and then hit it with a hammer to unclog and open a zerk with dried grease.
Fill the cylinder with ATF.
Sometimes when a fitting won't take grease it's because the ball in the center of the zerk is stuck from rust. I always try tapping the ball with a punch or nail before replacing the fitting.
There has been some developments....
OHHHHH?
Hmmmm?
Yea, but because of @21incher (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=24694) though, ya gotta wait for the video . ;)
popcorn_smiley
Hmm, what are they up to now? ;D
Sounds like a "Case" with bucket brakes is in da works. ;D
I am waiting to see where Cedar sits in the cab and Harley looks at it and says "Ain't no way I'm riding in that thing till he gets them brakes fixed and learns how to drive it." :D
Quote from: chet on March 31, 2023, 09:28:32 AM
Sounds like a "Case" with bucket brakes is in da works. ;D
Yep! Bet he's driving her home
A lot of the rattling in the video emanates from the loose muffler. The guy told me it's been like that since he got it 9 years ago. My ocd like tendencies simply won't allow that to continue. :)
Driving Home A 1988 Case 580 E Extenda-Hoe Backhoe. WILL IT MAKE IT? - YouTube (https://youtu.be/6c3MDIqTOqs)
Yes, Yes you can! that is how we do it in Kansas. :snowball:
It's a beauty. You got a great deal. Beautiful ride home but I was waiting for the ice. Good luck with it.
You made it! 8)
Looks like everything is still intact and tires are all round and bouncy, no bad smokey things or hot hissy steamy things happened. ;D
Did the gauges work? For engine power I'd try a fresh fuel filter and air filter first. Loose steering could be tie rods, steering cylinder or rotary valve, probably fine to run as is if you're done driving on the highway.
Big Iron ;D
You have it exactly where it needs to be so you can do your analyzing and TLC.
Chances are that you were in too tall of a gear on those first hills and you were loosing your rpm's/torque is why it seemed to be pulling down.
thumbs-up
Let the fun begin! I'm happy for you.
Nothing wrong with those roads. Good uneventful trip. Pray for many more. Looks like a solid purchase, and the tinkering shall begin.
NICE 8) 8) 8) 8) Lube oil and filters :) :)
Now I need to figure out what I got. So I know what filters to get.
Congratulations!
Once you started driving you probably shook the crud out of the fuel filters so it ran a little better.
I bet you still had plenty of inches of fuel left.
Now it's home, you'll never need the brakes again.
Great video! You have a dandy unit! All smiles watching you drive your new toy home 💪💪
Great ride!
Wow, you were ripping along there! None of the see-saw bouncing I expected to see either, so it must be a well balanced machine. Now the fun work begins!
Operator's, Service, Shop, and Parts Manuals.
Well done Jeff.
Talk about "sneaking Sally down the alley"! Your route was perfect, there was hardly any blacktop at all.
. . . and agreed, that rattle battle muffler is one of the first things to get fixed - or pitched!
Have fun, and betting that you feel as proud as a new Dad.
That steering is pretty typical of a 2wd backhoe. New ones don't do much better. Next time you have to drive down the road put a half load of dirt in the front bucket. You will see a remarkable difference.
tire air pressure may make a difference as well. It did seem stable. My old ford dump truck requires a little back and forth on the wheel. same with old john 850.
Looks like I have 2 different tires of the same size. One looks lower than the other.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10001/20230331_194050.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1680308569)
Yes on the fuel filter.
Looks like only about 20 cars went by ya.
You have just about the same amount of snow that I have.
The dogs like it!!!
Congratulations Jeff! Nothing like a new toy.......er TOOL to put a big 'ol' smile on your face! Before long you'll know every inch, nook and cranny of your machine. Let the fun begin 8) 8)
Having learned this lesson by buying a lot of fuel filters for my 644 Lull - drain the fuel tank completely, then flush it out, before you start to work with the girl. Your new filters will thank you for that. I sloshed around and picked up old crud in the tank on that Lull for a year and got really good at replacing filters and bleeding the system. I would have been WAY ahead if I had just torn the bandage off and drained the tank the day she arrived.
This machine has not been sitting other than for winter. No reason to think the fuel and tank are contaminated.
Aside from her dropping RPM's. Condensation from a half full tank, diesel grows algae too.
An older machine will always have "some" crud in the fuel tank that's gradually accumulated over the years. Enough to cause problems? Dunno. You can probably run the drained fuel through a makeshift filter and reuse it. It's obviously not badly crudded up as it drove home OK, but if you are giving it a good going over, flushing the fuel system makes sense.
I thought Bernstein was moving to MI, on a backhoe. :D Nah, scratch that, he has too much loot to leave behind. ;D
you can drain fuel into a clear plastic bottle like a two L pop bottle. then let it set, and if you see a bi-layer, you can pour the top fuel off carefully. I have done this but often I am not excited to reuse the fuel, especial if it was causing trouble. but it will then confirm the diagnosis of water in the fuel. I have taken contaminated diesel and used it to accelerate getting a stubborn bit of wood started in the burn barrel. bon_fire
Cheap insurance. Every truck stop has it and many other places. Best stuff out there.
https://www.howesproducts.com/products/diesel-treat (https://www.howesproducts.com/products/diesel-treat)
It has saved me after bad fuel in the mountains. also Diesel 911 if froze up.
Of course I have no concern with freeze/gel, but it is not uncommon to see a small black "ball" of algae in the bottom of the yellow fuel jugs. When I see it, I dump it out and I also use these products in all of my fuel jugs. The sawmill and both tractors have filters to catch what may grow inside of their tanks.
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Congratulations on getting the backhoe and driving it home.
Jeff
Nice looking machine it doesn't look like it lead a hard life
The brakes can be fixed and I am sure there is a cure for the play in the steering
Cheers
Al
Time to change the thread title
Digging it. Nope. Can't. How deep do you want it. :D
I have the same machine- 1976. Very good choice you made for the projects you have. I have only one brake at times. It makes moving dirt with loader difficult. Being able to turn it with brakes, makes it very much faster, being able to spin going back and forward.
I never thought i would get proficient using the "hoe" after I first bought it. I bought this from my friend and excavation people I used in construction. They are wild machines going down the road.
My friend give me about a half hour lesson on the hoe part on getting the hoe on and off the cradle. It is a unique way to getting it back on to say the least. Mine has the 4 sticks plus the outriggers. If you have someone there to show you it would be the best. I played and practiced with mine for at least a few days just to get familiar.
Safe advice that I have used from the beginning was not to let anyone in the path of the swing (ever). It is very tippy with 3 foot bucket extended even empty. Full with mud at operating speed, max left or right, with bucket high should not be attempted in the first lesson. Good luck, you will eventually love your machine.
The weather is not conducive to working outside on a machine, but I have been removing accumulated crud and making discoveries.
What in the ever loving world is this for??
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Looks like some sort of relief bypass, with the foot pedal as a temporary switch. IE, hold down the pedal and some function does something it wasn't designed to or it does it a lot faster.
Also could be a splitter switch to send oil to another function, as in a thumb. By chance do the hoses go to the capped off ends you asked about in the video?
Where does the wire go?
Control for a jack hammer attachment. Maybe ??? ;D
Could it be an alternate valve for the extendahoe function? It's nasty out there. I'm all in for dry conjectures versus wet greasy reality right now Jim. :D
With the extra plumbing at the back that you showed in the video I would assume that it had a hammer on it at one time. That pedal activates the auxiliary hydraulics.
Ask former owner? Maybe a neutral switch
He dont know.
That is where it goes. Those dead end hoses.
Looks like a diverter valve. Step on the foot pedal and the dead headed hoses are activated by one or two of your normal function handles. Guessing, not seen a pedal but usually a toggle button.
Yep I bet it was for a hammer. In your Case (pun intended😁) it looks like it's time to get a thumb fabbed up you can run with it😊
And in addition to a thumb, use those hydraulic hoses to connect to an hydraulic chainsaw at the end of the boom, or an hydraulic brush mower blade.
Or an hydraulic winch to pull the hoe out of the mud. Will have some great "reach" with that boom.
Getting, or making up, a pressure gauge that you can use to connect to those hose connectors to check pressure and functions at different ports seems a useful tool.
With the weather, hope you now have room to get the hoe inside to work on it rather than the fickle spring weather.
Am thinking the forum will get as much fun as Jeff out of this purchase.
Very likely it had a hammer attachment on it one once upon a time, keep in mind in 35 years it's changed hands more than once. All you can do is look for clues to the life it's lead, that repaint makes me think it went through a auction at least once ("Dupont Overhaul"). :D
That diverter is a real plus. Good find.
Quoteuse those hydraulic hoses to connect to an hydraulic chainsaw at the end of the boom,
Interesting you mention that, about the same time Jeff's machine was built, the US Military had Mercedes Benz Unimog machines built. What they called a "Small Emplacement Excavator" (SEE), these were a short wheel base "truck" with a front end loader, and a Case backhoe that would fold up like a swiss army knife. With it came an assortment of hydraulic tools, including a saw (IIRC).
Our National Guard unit had a couple of them. Pretty neat little rig.
Congratulations on your big new hoe Jeff! Looks like it ran well!
I'm a big fan of the suicide knob on the steering wheel. Both the steering and your story of losing power on the hill sounded similar to mine. There's lots of back and forth steering and mine doesn't like hills if not on 2nd gear and about topped out on rpm' s.
Is your barn big enough to store it? I kept mine out in the weather for a couple years, I don't know if water was in my hydraulic oil prior to that (it was also stored outside when I bought it) or if it helped there be water in the oil but it's nice when that fluid isn't milky. A good hydraulic fluid change out isn't my idea of fun and expensive.
You are right they aren't cheap but a whole lot less than the alternative to not changing fluids. I actually like servicing/regular maintenance on equipment. Gives me a chance to give it a good look over for potential problems in the future.
I probably wont do a whole lot until things thaw, and I can do some degreasing and power washing. I may grease it and change the engine oil first to get me started. Manuals coming next week.
I think they go a mile out of there way, when running a wire to the house, under ground. I cut 5 of them, before they came out with detectors....just saying
SE
I had to go look it up. How cool!
Unimog FLU419 finger system dig - YouTube (https://youtu.be/BeGxmc3b8pg)
Quote from: sharp edge on April 01, 2023, 03:33:54 PM
I think they go a mile out of there way, when running a wire to the house, under ground. I cut 5 of them, before they came out with detectors....just saying
SE
Don't understand what you mean. You're thoughts?
Now Jeff if you had the Unimog, you could just drive it back and forth to the cabin👍👍😁
Ben, just taking the fun out of running a backhoe...just call before you dig. The ground has lot of wires everywhere... UP too.
SE
Step on that pedal and ill bet one of your other functions goes "dead". The one or two I've seen like that the swing circuit was used for the diverter valve. Thought was you dont need to swing while hammering.
Doesn't matter for your use but a machine that runs a hammer has about the roughest service life.
In a neighborhood where my son went to grade school a guy had a Unimog, it's cool! One thing I noticed in Croatia and Slovenia was the backhoes had the pivot at the right rear corner of the machine. It would fold up flush with the back of the machine for easy transport.
Ljohnsaw- I've seen some hoes that slide horizontally too, added complexity and potential balance issues but probably handy.
Some of the European JCB backhoes are set up that way, the whole assembly slides side to side on the back of the machine. Kind of the backhoe version on a close swing on a mini excavator, to dig tight up against structures. Other makers have tried a similar setup, I know John Deere had their own version of that in 1959.
my CAT excavator attachment for my track loader, can slide from right to left, and pivot from there. it is not hydraulic, but loosen the pin, and use the bucket/stick hydraulics to move it.
Extra valve was probably for a hammer.Foot pedal actuates solenoid on valve.Is only for one way actuation so wouldn't have been used for any cylinders.I put a lot of them on excavators for hammers,thumb would require 2 way valve.Case dealerships sold Unimogs years ago.I went to school on them in 1976.WV turnpike bought several.Not fun to work on. I think you will like backhoe controls after you get used to them.Linkage is a lot simpler than wobble stick controls and easier to take slop out of.
Hi Jeff. I'm a little late to the thread but want to say "good score"!
A few comments. First, I'd inspect all of the hydraulic hoses for signs of outer jacket damage. Typically a hose goes bad when the outer jacket is damaged, and water is allowed to rust out the exposed metal reinforcing wires. Just about every hose that i have that has gone bad is where the outer jacket was damaged. If it's fresh damage and the reinforcing wire is still shiny, then use a heat gun or something to evaporate any water out of the wire and then tape it really well. If it's older damage with heavily rusted wires, I would suggest that you preemptively replace the hose so that you're not down in the field (and also don't lose expensive hydraulic oil).
That machine probably weighs around 14,000 - 15,000 lbs, so towing it on a trailer behind a 3/4 ton pickup is a bit much. Be sure to lower the hoe when towing; otherwise it may take out some phone wires due to the height. I extend mine out and then lay it down on the trailer deck when I tow it.
Also, cover the exhaust pipe when you tow. If not, the wind can go down the exhaust pipe - spin the turbo and burn out its bearings because there is no oil pressure feeding them.
Personally I'd try to fix the inoperative brake. I use differential braking around 5% - 10% of the time when operating my backhoe and it's beneficial.
As you may have figured out, the machine has an electric clutch AND a torque converter. Usually there is a button that activates it on the shift handle. To operate, you hold the button in for a few seconds, shift, and then release the button.
I'd suggest a high quality grease. I buy mine by the case and it's a good idea to grease the machine every time before you use it, and every 8 hours afterward. Cordless grease guns are awesome if you do a lot of greasing!
I'm not a big proponent of driving an older backhoe for miles and miles from job to job. You're putting a lot of wear on some expensive tires, etc, as well as the drivetrain components. Think about it - a 10 mile drive will probably put more wear and tear on the drivetrain than 10 years of operation on your property.
Although 2wd, one nice thing about a backhoe (and especially an extend-a-hoe) is that you can usually get them unstuck yourself if you get them stuck. The key here is to move from "operating mode" to "getting unstuck mode" sooner rather than later when you find yourself starting to get stuck.
Keep 5 - 10 gallons of spare hyd oil on hand wherever you work the backhoe.
Best of success to you!
Scott
Today was a decent day. I tightened the muffler. Joe was over so I toke advantage to have him look for leaks while I ran hydraulic functions. I did a closer inspection and I'm glad I did. Pin keeper bolt on the bottom of the boom cylinder was gone, and the pin was completely back out of half the yoke.
After that we stretched the boom out and I found the leak from the video. Its just one. The front seal on one of the boom cylinders Right now, horizontal, with the machine running, it is a dripdripdripdripdrip. It needs repacked. Its the one the pin was out on too.
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Good advice from scsmith42! Getting unstuck before becoming too stuck is a good call.
I got mine stuck enough (was bottomed out) that attempting to pull myself free with a chain and tree ended up breaking the chain a couple times. Then I learned to use all the points of ground contact to my benefit to unstick. I was real bogged down, so I got the loader side off the ground as much as possible flipping and pushing the loader bucket down and tilting up to push the machine with the loader, then using the hoe to crab walk sideways, inch by inch, and using stabilizers, to try to keep the wheels out of the mess. Also, the front wheels were clogged in it too so I had to turn the steering wheel a bit as I rotated the machine out of the hole. This was all after finding that the ground was much too soft to pull the machine out with the hoe side, like normal. It's amazing how fast you can say "uh oh!" I've found that it gets scary when your machine is way up in the air to get unstuck, and your hoe is off to the side really unbalancing everything, feeling like you'll tip. Keep those stabilizers low. I've taken a couple hours to get unstuck before.
I'm not the poster boy for excellent cylinder health, but I've got a couple slow drippy ones that have been there for a couple years, if that makes you feel any better.
I'll need to fix this asap. The boom drift is bad enough, You could dig okay, but not use the bucket, say with tongs to load logs on the mill.
One good thing Case built thousands of 580's so parts can be found, and seal kits are readily available for all the cylinders. Buy some oil dry and pig mats... ;D
How is the chrome on the rod?
Chrome looks fine as far as I can tell. Should I try this myself, or take the cylinder in?
Quote from: Jeff on April 03, 2023, 09:13:25 AM
Chrome looks fine as far as I can tell. Should I try this myself, or take the cylinder in?
Jeff:
I think it depends on how much education you are interested in acquiring. Also just might require special tools.
GAB
I need to budget cash much greater than brain cells, but lately, brain cells have been in shorter supplies than cash, which can be quite frustrating.
Some cylinders come apart easy and you can do them on the tailgate of a pickup on the field. Others will put the professionals to the test in a fully equipped hydraulic shop🤷
My Case skid steer has a lift cylinder that is seeping, and I haven't redone it yet because I don't know which of the above they are😊
I'd try the cylinder yourself. Worst case you load it up and take it someplace.
Been a long time so I dont remember what style gland nut they have? Post a picture when you get a chance.
Sometimes the worst part is getting the gland cap off if its a threaded on style. Also the piston retaining nut is usually real tight and loctited. A torch is your friend.
Cylinder repair will require special spanner wrench which you should be able to buy at Case dealership or possibly online and a fairly large socket to take nut off end of rod once you get it apart.Not to complicated to replace seals if you watch how the old ones come out.Be sure to clean everything up good and inspect inside of barrel for scratches.Might as well learn how to do it.It probably won't be the only one that needs it.
Not a bad one to do on your own. Pretty much like we discussed on da phone. End cap removal normally biggest problem. Like was said above, might as well lean into it as it probably won't be the last one.
Hydraulic Cylinder Rebuild - Case 580E Backhoe Bucket Cylinder - YouTube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XxF0rOEAf6s)
A lot of times it's easiest to break the gland nut free on the machine if you can. Some of them come off hard enough it can be tough to hold them from moving while you break it free on the bench. Same goes for the piston nut once you get it apart, put the rod back on the machine while you wrestle with it. No matter how big your lever is you won't chase the rod around the bench :D
I'd go at it myself, just take pictures where all the seals and back up rings are. A parts book can be real helpful too just in case the machine has digested a piece. Without a parts book or schematic you'd never know it was even there.
Looking quickly at the video it looks like a standard "face pin" spanner wrench will do the trick, only thing to note is the diameter of the pin holes matching the pins on the spanner tightly. An OTC wrench will set you back like 50-100 bucks depending on size and one will probably fit every cylinder on the machine.
I would give the gland nut a tug and if it doesn't come easy, apply a little heat then try again.
@Jeff (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=1) This is the spanner I like as it is adjustable to different sizes. They also have a good selection of rebuild kits.
3/4" and 1/2" drive Face Pin Spanner wrench set for hydraulic cylinders - FoxKits.com (https://www.foxkits.com/3-4-and-1-2-drive-face-pin-spanner-wrench-set-for-hydraulic-cylinders/)
The wrenchs Chet posted are imported and I broke the pins off 2 similar sets of "imported" spanners before spending a few more bucks on an OTC set that were made in the USA.
Just a word of warning.
I never bought from the place listed above, but it was the first place I found searching for that style wrench. The one I have was made in Canada, and has lasted for years.
If you take the cylinders to a shop to be repacked, you'll have to plan a way to lift them off and then reinstall them. If you do it yourself on the machine, along with a spanner you'll need long pipe for leverage. Also get a good set of caps to plug fittings once you take the hoses off (be ready for gallons of hydraulic fluid puddling out). One good thing your Case has the cylinders out where you can get at them, my John Deere had one hidden inside the boom.
They list some USA made on there, $100 more for 3/4 and 1/2 drive together.
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Do you have a way to lift and hold the cylinder and rod when working on it? They get really heavy quickly and when re-installing the glands you don't want to nick or bung up a wiper or seal or you will take it apart again. Even a tree and a chain fall would help, just something to give you a much needed hand.
I have done a lot of them, and now and then there is one that I just bring in due to the size, or if I can't get it apart, that's cheaper than wrecking a rod or causing other damage. Not sure I would recommend doing one by yourself as a first time gig if it's a big, heavy, cylinder. If you have some help then I would feel a lot better about it.
My guess is if I brought that into the shop I use the seals and wipers would be $100 - $150 unless there was some very unique part to it, drop it off and pick it back up, with a warranty would be $350 or so, FWIW.
You were just elbow deep in an engine, this is the easy stuff. Try to do them yourself, good to know when they fail in the field. I didn't see mention but you also need a seal twister kit. The black plastic mortar pan at Lowes, often we can slide that under and catch most of it. Blue creeper, I have one gland nut soaking for this job, I had the big pipe on it and was just going to break the wrench, I'll soak it till it comes home next time.
We keep feeding the long in-boom cylinder on the Lull, I'm sorta dreading that one. My thinking is 2 leaked pails pays for the seals on just about anything I can drive. Always have oil. If I get a tattoo... :D
My go to hydraulic shop will let me borrow tools. Can't hurt to ask!
@Jeff (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=1) , if you can wait until the project at Jake's I will bring my OTC adjustable ½" drive pin spanner for you to use. If you decide to do it sooner or take it to a shop that's fine too. Just let me know.
Brent
First to get the seal kit you should have the cylinder number that is usually on the face of the gland and it would not hurt to give them the backhoe serial number too.
There is usually a locking screw on the gland/cylinder seam that needs to be removed first then to loosen the gland a continuous pressure is usually required.
The gland has o rings so it it not going to come off like a nut with a quick jerk it takes lots of pressure held on as the o ring looses it's grip.
The piston nut requires a lot of torque to be correct.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/18975/cyl_spec.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1680554581)
Also says apply 242 loctite to first six threads of piston bolt.
I would check with dealer on correct spanner.The one from Case will have three pins the correct size and may not be to expensive.Also I don't remember cylinders being to awful heavy.Company I worked for used to send me out to pack them.Just had a pickup truck so had to do everything by hand,but I was just a dumb teenager with pretty good strength.May not be able to lift them now and don't want to try :laugh:.Like someone else said probably a set screw needs removed before trying to screw gland off.
The thing is, I've been having some trouble this spring with joint issues hips shouldes knees and ankles. Doing pt right now but its not getting much better. I have to park twice as far from walmart now no I can get mysel walking straight before I see myself coming in the door reflection. :D
I found a new amish hydraulic shop south of town that can handle it easily, but the rough estimate was $250 to $350 if it was just seals. Im leaning that way.
That may be a good way to lean.
I needed both FEL cylinders rebuilt on my Kubota 4900 last year and just delivered the tractor to the shop. There was no way that I could have handled the cylinders by myself so the decision was easy.
Give it go. I've found that $$$ paid to a hydraulic shop are well spent ;) :) ;D
I'd suggest checking around for an independent mobile mechanic with their own tool truck and crane to give you a quote. (Thinking an independent would cost less than a dealership). They could do the heavy lifting and messy work on the cylinder, and also check the rest of the machine over for any other issues.
Quote from: Resonator on April 03, 2023, 08:39:07 AM
One good thing Case built thousands of 580's so parts can be found, and seal kits are readily available for all the cylinders. Buy some oil dry and pig mats... ;D
One note of encouragement is sawdust makes pretty good oil absorber. At least that won't be a big expense. ;)
Good luck on the repairs.
The sawmill is 187 miles away under several new inches of snow. The black lump to the left.
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The snow slowly sliding off the roof has been triggering the camera today.
You buy the hose and fittings I'll make hoses for ya :).
You will have to rebuild more then one most likely. I have never rebuilt one by myself a I have two friends I trade with. One worked on all of the machinery of a large sawmill ( to me) and built most of the support equipment. I watched and helped on every cylinder that these two friends helped on.
Someone mentioned that you break it down on machine- that is very good advice, some are way too heavy and a lot of the battle is holding it while you get it apart. Some cylinders have little set screws on the edge of the ring. Knowing the setscrews are there in some cylinders will keep you from egging out the spanner holes or giving up. Some of mine came right loose with punch and blaster or creeper. The last person had already egged them out. A real real large m wrench had been used before and that works if you do not have the proper spanner wrench.
The gland nut is torcxed on and off. Shop air with ¾ or 1 inch was used on one I watched in a shop I took my cylinders too when I first got my machine. He passed away 3 or 4 years ago and I learnt that my other friends could show me and do it right on the spot. Leroy's cheater bar is flattened on one end for a huge breaker bar and about as tall as he is. I usually have to add the weight needed. Protect the chrome shaft and bushings at all times from slipping. The book you ordered will be well worth it. The seals come in kits and some of the kits are grouped into the complete hoe, complete loader bucket, etc. I found you can buy the groups cheaper than some individual cylinder kits online. Someone mentioned the plugs for the lines when you take apart. Very good advice.
Cylinder Piston Rod Seal U-cup Installation Tool Kit Set, Snap ring pliers, pick set, 6-point torque sockets, large open-end wrenches. Not a lot of expense. This time of year, the shops here are backed up with way too many have to have it now customers that are not going to get it now.
I do not hire out so I have to keep my costs down to support my hobby.
The mechanical aspect of this rebuild isn't that complicated, the size/weight of the cylinder is scary to me without an overhead hoist and sets of extra hands. More than one farmer finger tip is missing around here from aligning machinery cylinders on farm equipment. I think if the Amish fellows will do it for that price that's a good deal, you can save your body for more important things. Especially if they would come help pull it off. Once rebuilt it should last along time. You aren'tlooking to build a UP excavation empire. I would see about the brake that's not working and see if you can get it good in case you have to "road"it to the hydraulic shop. Our cylinder shop is 14 miles away, but there are a couple mobile guys that could come if I had to, but thankfully none of my tractor cylinders are that big.
In my neighborhood the Amish would come and do it if you offer to haul them. I've become friends with a few Amish and they will help if you go get them.
If the quote includes coming and taking it off, all parts, putting it back on that sounds fair. You also will have your time, fuel, in this but make it a requirement that you get to watch tearing it down and putting it back together.
Remember that the cylinder is full of fluid regardless of whether it is expanded or collapsed. I have gotten an unexpected fluid wetting more than once.
Quote from: jaciausa on April 04, 2023, 08:22:16 AM
but make it a requirement that you get to watch tearing it down and putting it back together.
If a new customer comes here and does that, they will be told to find another place to get their work done.
You can ask, and maybe I will accommodate, but I'd you demand then let's just say the first date will end before water is on the table.
QuoteThe snow slowly sliding off the roof has been triggering the camera today.
Soon it will be a backhoe driving around triggering the camera... :)
Old auto mechanics saying: Labor rate is $50 per hour, $75 if you want to watch, $100 if you want to help.
Just ordered the seal kit and a spanner for all the cylinders on this machine, other than steering. Place called broken tractor.
Quote from: Jeff on April 03, 2023, 06:40:45 PM
The thing is, I've been having some trouble this spring with joint issues hips shouldes knees and ankles. Doing pt right now but its not getting much better. I have to park twice as far from walmart now no I can get mysel walking straight before I see myself coming in the door reflection. :D
I found a new amish hydraulic shop south of town that can handle it easily, but the rough estimate was $250 to $350 if it was just seals. Im leaning that way.
That is a very fair price.
Well, you coulda went from Alaska to southern Oregon for it. :D :D A young couple that does Alaska videos.
Road Trippin' 5,885 Miles For a New Tractor | Driving the Alaska Highway - YouTube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y2uu5W2wpdc)
Finally loosing our snow. I still dont have any outside water, but the last storm left me a loader bucket full of water so I've been taking advantage of doing some hand cleaning so I can really get a look at the machine. So far, no new surprises.
New to me 560E Case Backhoe. Handwash 1st Inspection. - YouTube (https://youtu.be/GNLxE6mcv3I)
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Manuals show up yet?
The old girl cleaned up pretty good.People laugh at me for keeping my farm tractor so clean after having it 35 years but it keeps me from wanting a new one.That might not be entirely true but it helps :laugh:
Good looking machine, Jeff. Based on local prices, you got if for half price. I hope that it serves you well. I wish I could send you some 90° + weather to help you get things thawed out.
I betcha he has some 70° weather coming next week.
Looks pretty sharp cleaned up!
Amazing how removing grime gives a man some pride. ;D Does the radio work? ;)
Well, it did work one day, and now it don't. Joe and Stacy are coming for easter today. We are going to try and figure out why the lights and radio wont work. Pretty sure its a power supply issue to the ROP cab
I looks nice, you really put some time in on that cleaning job. Since the previous owner didn't even tighten the muffler clamp, maybe most other issues will be pretty minor also. Loose fittings, loose wires, etc. Aggravating to find, but easy and inexpensive to fix.
I'm excited to get it to the u.p. and digging, but I want to resolve any issues it may have here. Up there, needed resources are scarce.
Try to find some place that you can do some digging with it. Work both ends and see how many hoses might pop or cylinders start showing leaks. Don't matter if you use the hoe to dig a big hole and the bucket to put it back. Make sure there isn't any fiber optic or other wires where you are digging first. ;D The time to work it like you stole it is now, where you can fix what needs it. You don't want to be up there and 30 min. in be breaking down.
Watching the video looks like you need to call a dentist (bucket is missing a tooth). ;D
(Broken tractor sells those too). Some guys don't use the retainer pins, but instead weld the teeth right to the bucket. And depending how worn the shank is, you may want to do so also. Good time to check the bucket for hairline cracks.
Got spare teeth in the toolbox. :)
OK grandpa! :) :) ;D :)
Hadn't noticed it before, I like that drop stop on the loader arm. Make a habit to use it religiously.
That machine cleaned up nicely.
Quote from: Jeff on April 09, 2023, 08:01:59 AM
Well, it did work one day, and now it don't. Joe and Stacy are coming for easter today. We are going to try and figure out why the lights and radio wont work. Pretty sure its a power supply issue to the ROP cab
Check the ground cable from the cab to the frame.
Scott, that was the first thing I did, and it was funky, but not the entire issue. This machine had some experimental lets try this even if its crazy wiring updates.
A simple story of the fun you can have in a backhoe...
The bridge over the creek has gotten washed out a couple times and we have a bee guy that drives across it to check his hive. The wife told me to build it back up, so yesterday I went out and did so, just getting a few scoops of dirt and rocks from either side of the culvert and plopping it back in place until I can get my new big culvert pipes in. Well, a couple of scoops on the inflow side I pulled out a big rock that was buried deep, and I went woo hoo! I like rocks, preferably bigger than basketball size, and this one is about an eighth the size of a VW Beetle? Good stuff and off to the rock pile it went! Not bad for an hour's work!
I'm also intimidated by cylinder work and it's the biggest reason mine still leak. I don't have a lot of desire to get beaten to a pulp trying to get one apart, then, knowing my luck I miss-assemble it and have to take it apart and rebuy seals several times. Mine don't leak quickly, and it takes hours for the implements to drop.
Your machine looks great all cleaned up Jeff.
Latest in the Hoe Saga
Case 580E. The crazy, maybe haunted, greasy old hoe got a bath and it turned her headlights on! - YouTube (https://youtu.be/GUogciw2b8c)
Turn Your Radio On [Live] - YouTube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XT2LU6cRg5Y)
Jeff, don't you understand? That is a battery saving feature. Who would walk away from their tractor with the radio on? Right, no one. But walk away with the lights on? ;)
My comment about the VW Beetle was just comparing it to the size of rocks not the oddities of how your backhoe electronics work!
:)
MM you are truly a special man. Thank you, thankyou
Are you going to change all the oils and filters in it?
I was told the hydraulic was changed this last year. Engine oil, certainly. Gearbox, It's on the list.
Tonight the radio and lights won't work. Gotta be a ground don't it?
smiley_thumbsup
Backhoe practice. WAIT FOR IT Some splashy new targets and a warning for Cedar the German Shepherd - YouTube (https://youtu.be/sfbrydMo2KY)
AH man! You wasted a good beer! Yeah, I know it was a Bud light, which isn't really beer, but still!
Back when I had a machine shop we had a contract to build two diamond crushing machines. Very siimple things, btu an interesting story about the build and installing the machines and I shared the work with two other small shops. I did most of the machining and all the assembly and testing work. I didn't have any diamonds to crush for testing ;D but a beer can was just about the same size as the crucible that they diamonds were crushed in and fit right in the special vise for holding the crucible. So I starting stacking beer cans in that vise and found I could crush 6 cans on top of each other until they were about .045" thick. It didn't prove anything, but it was a fun thing to do at the end of the build. Made a hell of a racket though! WHAM WHAM WHAM WHAM......... !
That was a good laugh 👍
:D :D :D Good thing to do with ALL A.B. stuff.
Perfect aim on a good target. You deserve a Corona.
I ground out those old bolts and repaired the body grounds. Cleaned everything bare, bolted it up tight, and painted it. The lights all came on, even the yellows. Radio worked. I came in for a couple hours and went back out to video just now. Nothing.no lights. Can't find the demon. It could be in a dash switch or a relay hanging, sumpthin.
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Jeff, my Case skid loader had a main wiring harness connector that was sa bad connection and made lots of goofy stuff happen. Just a big rubber plug with wires in it.
Switch. Short $$ to replace. With it on, wiggle it, see if something happens. After sunset. So you can see the blink.
Still waiting for some help, so haven't tackled the boom cylinder seals yet, but picked up a pail of 15-40 on sale at tractor supply, and ordered a filter set that includes 1oil, 2 fuel, 2 air and a hydraulic filter.
Did those manuals show up?
Oh yea!
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I was about to tell ya ta call him, because it was supposed to have the parts manuals too. But then I seen I missed it in the first read. Looks like your totally covered and then some smiley_thumbsup
Jeff, that Backhoe safety manual reminds me of a poster a foreign student made several years ago. We were supposed to put student work up on the wall. For years after, the kids all touched the "Tactor Safty" poster for luck on their way out of the classroom.
Here is a older unit I had on my watch list that just sold
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I've started in one step at a time to find the electrical demons. First stop, the ignition switch cobble and the contact board in the instrument panel. The switch absolutely has a short in it, and may be the biggest culprit. We shall see. I have a new stock switch to put in, but have to put proper connectors on it.(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10001/20230419_182617.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1681985991)
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o
Way to dig into it Jeff!
Caught maybe a cup of oil in a clean pail before getting caps and plugs on. Im not thrilled with the look of the oil, so I may drain it as a new filter is coming. Ouch.
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I would you will feel better doing it. And all the TLC you been doing to it
Pull the plug on at oil tank under the frame and drain a bit to see what comes out there, that will make up your mind.
If you change the hydro oil, get the good stuff. Not the cheap $ 40.00 a 5 gal junk.
Everyone can do what they want but no way I would use the cheap stuff either
Just for discussion's sake, what do you guys think he gains by running the more expensive hydraulic oils?
I don't seek out the most expensive oils. I try to stay in the middle of the road and make sure it meets the manufacturer recommendations for the application and keep up on filter changes.
The thought of draining a hydraulic system makes my hand quiver and not be able to grip the ratchet when it comes to the cost these days .That quiver goes away real quick when the price and aggravation of a pump replacement comes to mind.
If it's questionable I'd dump it.
Quote from: newoodguy78 on April 22, 2023, 01:38:01 AMdon't seek out the most expensive oils. I try to stay in the middle of the road and make sure it meets the manufacturer recommendations for the application and keep up on filter changes.
That goes for a lot of things. A small improvement in performance usually comes at a premium price, but cutting a few corners to save a couple of dollars can have a BIG effect on performance. Get a reputable brand that meets the specs, for a sensible price, and carry on.
The stuff my lull calls is $ 125.00 for 5 gal. And I keep one extra bucket around. In case I blow a hose.
The hoe hydros take a different oil than the tractor transmission. No way am I going to flush 21 gallons of oil from that machine, which is total capacity. Oil and filter change is 11.5 gallons. It seems it would make zero sense to mix 12 new gallons of top of the line oil into 9 gallons of 46 hydraulic oil from tractir supply, which is what the previous owner had used the last 10 years. I can't see anything in the manual on how to purge the entire system, even if I wanted to.
I only use the buckets that say Hydraulic fluid, some are labeled oil in the same department. The fluid marked buckets have the correct specs. I would just change filter and save the new for when you bust a hose or two. I have same machine and it worked for me until I discovered that they are marked different. Is the filter light on?
Use exactly what it says in the transmission.
No filter lights, but the light test switch is broke off, so not sure if it works. The engine and alt light work however.
@jaciausa (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=26112) to you happen to have a mechanical tach, and do you know where the cable goes to the engine?
The last pail of oil I had to buy for my Super 70 was over three years ago, and it was $300 / 5 gallon pail then. Liquid gold.
Most of the heartburn I've heard was "303" oil which was an old spec that no longer meant anything. I never found anything huge in the bottom of the bucket. The guys at the parts house said for most of our stuff just use anything labelled premium, which is not the "high end" stuff. I've seen people online said the 303 ruined their machines. I suspect they were running machines on their last legs just like ours. Kind of hard to blame anything in particular on a failure in an old machine but we are moving everything towards that mid grade oil as we tighten leaks up. I don't pour the very last of the bucket into the machine. I wipe that out with sawdust and use it for firestarter. Do that a couple times then dawn and you have a new mud bucket. I've said more than I know but maybe it'll prompt an informed response :D.
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Anyone use filter carts? The outfit I used to work for ran all our oils thru them and reused. Maybe check around for a shop with a mobile cart. Good way to save some $$$
I rented a filter cart from Federal Fluid Power in Gaylord to process the hydraulic oil in my Fabtek which had become milky from condensation. I forget what the rental cost was but it was cheaper than replacing the hydraulic fluid. There was rental plus the cost of the filters. There's a Federal Fluid Power in Mt. Pleasant. It's behind the Home Depot. You can get most of the oil out of a system by pulling all the cylinders in and then cracking and draining lines. Quite a project. I just bought buckets of mid grade tractor fluid at TSC. I run it in all my stuff. Bobcat, Block Buster, NH TC40D, JD 544H hydraulics but not the tranny.
I've ran lots of the "303"with no known side effects. I did fill out the card for the class action lawsuit a long time ago and just recently got a check for $250.00 8) 8)
So 303 is bad? I have 10 gallons in my log splitter and 7 gallons in my trencher. Both have been using it for years with no leaks or problems. Still looks clear. I hadn't heard there were problems with it.
Do you think anyone new, will ever, fall in and read this entire topic? :D I am assuming it aint no where near being posted out and we have no idea where it's going to end up. :D
I think 303 had such a loose spec that they could dump about anything in the bucket.
In my years of running ctl equipment, the main difference I saw in the premium hydraulic oils was cold temperature flow characteristics. For instance, the standard ISO 32 on a -30° morning would be completely clouded and on its way to becoming a solid. The same manufacturer's premium oil of the same weight was not cloudy and while getting thick was no where near what the standard ISO 32 was. Your hydraulics in the machine loosened up far faster with the premium.
If you aren't running in extreme temps, I don't see the benefit of running the top line oils. The example I gave before, the premium was twice the price.
Don't think that the oil is necessarily cleaner if you buy a premium product, either. I had a contaminated 5 gallon bucket of a premium hydraulic oil foul up the system on the forwarder I ran. Ponsses use a suction line you stick right in your oil jug to add oil to the machine, so I didn't see there was a problem with the oil until my system was completely clouded with sediment👎👎 I had Ponsse bring out a filter cart and run my oil through, which cleaned it up pretty well.
Like someone mentioned, don't pour the last bit from the bottom in. It often has some sediment in it.
I am going over to use hoe today, i will check the tach, i believe it is mechanical.
The 303 oil is what I was referring to. It is marked oil on bucket. It is only up to specs to 1974 machines I believe. Maybe go check out the former owners bucket collection or talk to him about weather he even knows difference. I sent my better half for fluid and that is how I learnt. Tim
Quote from: Jeff on April 22, 2023, 11:31:55 AM
Do you think anyone new, will ever, fall in and read this entire topic? :D I am assuming it aint no where near being posted out and we have no idea where it's going to end up. :D
Wife is cookin' Walleye for supper musteat_1
Jeff, The tach cable is on the front left of motor, in front of injection pump. It goes up and back along inside of hood to speedometer.
The hydraulic oil light is way to top of speedo a little to right. Its hard to see even when lit up. If its good the light should go out.
Chet,Two questions. What time and got any extra? :D Walleye is food fit for a king, especially if it came through the ice.
Rolled in grits?
Cornmeal and flour, fried in butter like a good thick steak of wild Atlantic. ;D
Haddock is my fav cooked just about any way, it's usually cheaper than hotdogs here.
Egg and flour coating , fried in real butter, yum. But sorry, it's all gone. smiley_smug01
No fiddleheads to go with it?
No fiddle heads in the snow, which we have again, so I presume chet has more.
Tammy jumped in to help me keep my butt dry. The seat was all ripped up and the cushion a sponge. She had some super sticky heavy duty vinyl sheeting, and we made a giant patch. 9.95 is way better than 189 for a seat shell.
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That looks brand new. I may have to try that with a couple of my seats.
Few wrinkles on the curves,but at least the moisturecant get in.
Is the shed in the UP high enough and deep enough to park it inside?
No, and I'm sure if it was, it would soon get a complex having lived outside at least the last 10 years.
Seat looks great. What do you call that stuff?
Was wondering if it was big enough to secure it, not so much about being in the weather.
Ihave to wait for Jeremy to let me know where he odered it from. It is a roll 17" wide, 54" long
Good job on the seat. Now I can picture one of those large heavy duty black construction waste bags dropped over the top and a bungee cord securing it around the pedestal, you know like the ones Home Deposit and others sell.:)
It might have lived outside, but not in da UP outside. ;D
Better view of the seat.
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Chet our snow load ratings here are the same as detour.
What is detour? ???
That seat looks great. Got one here I'd like to put that on. I bolted a piece of inner tube across the back of a couple seats to flip over them when I get off works pretty good. Helps keep the sun from cooking them until they crack too.
Detour Village is a town in far eastern end of Upper Peninsula of Michigan. I like to refer to it as the east coast of da UP.
Sofa patch it was 20 bucks, but I used less than half, so I was close.
Amazon.com: Leather Repair Patch for Couches 17X55inch Large Self-Adhesive refinisher cuttable reupholster Tape Patches kit for Couch Car Seats Furniture Sofa Vinyl Chairs Shoes Fabric Fix(M.Brown, 17x55 inch) (https://a.co/d/3oKcYX4)
Skin of the elusive sticky nauga.
Drug myself out to pick up the boom cylinder. Friday morning my feelin very blah since returning from georgia turned into full blown head and chest cold along with digestive arguing at both ends.
Im waiting for help or to get better first to get it back on. I can definitely live with the charge.
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Takes a while to acclimate to our southern cooking.
I aint blaming nothing on the grits! I has seconds!
Boy if we could get the boom cylinder done on the Sky Trak for 5 times that cost we would jump on it! Actually if we could just get it taken out, that would be enough.
Good on ya Jeff!
If it is just seals in that Sky Trak cylinder, I bet it won't be considerably worse in price. Maybe more labor in getting it apart. Definitely a lot of labor in getting it out!
The seal kit might as well be free as well as the work to install it. The issues is with gaining access to it in the first place. Buried inside the boom. But I have a thread running for that now, we can take it over there if you have any input, all of which is appreciated. ;D
Holy cow! Did you remove the boom and take it somewhere or did they come get it? That's cheap!
Also, I have a fair amount of water in my hydraulic fluid, I attempted to swap it out but my hoe still lived outside where it continued getting water into it. It wasn't much fun to break every hose loose, drain them all and refill the whole system. I also didn't have a giant sized hex wrench to open the drain on the tank itself, so who knows how clean it was. Now that it lives in the barn I'll have to swap it out again. A filter cart is great, from what I hear, but not if water is dissolved in the oil like mine is.
I took the cylinder in. I got it off, easily loosened the top, and then really started to feel sick. I had the seals so just took it in. They pulled it apart put the seals in it, and put it back together. The young amish stud carried it palms up away from his belly like it weighed nothing.
Temp over 101 today, so im laying low
My water softener people charge 125.00 to show up here.
You got a bargain. :)
I got stff to do. Aint got time for this sick crap, however the cabin aint ready for me anyhow.
Meanwhile, back at the cabin. (https://fb.watch/k6lgrGiC2P/?mibextid=NnVzG8)
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We were all a stud, years ago. :D :D :D :D :D :D ;)
Yah, I faintly remember those days!
I bet he didn't have to hold it out too far to clear his belly either.
I remember lifting a Honda 750 Shadow engine out of the frame and putting it on the bench in my twenties it was pushing 200 lbs wet........might have something to do with my back not liking me to lift anything over 40 lbs now.
When you get everything squared away you are going to love that unit and find so many things to do
My Grandpa was telling me a story once, where he was swapping an engine from one old car to another when he was a young man of around 20. He said he got the engine ready to remove, he said he got his younger brother Runt😁 with a rope over his shoulders to lift the engine out. Now Runt was about 14, I don't know what he weighed back then but he was one solid muscle. Instead of a neck, he had muscles that came from the bottom of his ears tapered out to his shoulders😂 Anyways, Grandpa nonchalantly said that as he got the last bolt loose, and Runt pulled the engine loose and walked with it over to the other car. "Hold on! How big of an motor was it, Grandpa?" I asked. "Oh it was just a little 60 horse V8, son."
Grandpa couldn't understand why I thought it was a big deal🤷😂
I might have carried a 5 horse Honda once. I hope I'm not a disappointment to my ancestors 😂
Good call getting the cylinders done. My land clearing friend for as much stuff as he does I asked him the other day about his cylinders and he said he takes them in on all the earthmoving equipment
High and dry. No drips no float. I had a steel line on the right front bucket leaking, but it just needed tightened. I got an actual hydraulic tank dipstick and cap replacement. Shows the oil in below add, but the oil looks good and clean and transparent on the stick, and the machine shop said they didn't notice any issues with the oil from the cylinder. No I don't feel better, but I had a hand here for an hour so took advantage.
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Topped off the hydo oil, and ot was 2.5 gallons low. I'd bet that was about how much was in that boom cylinder
If you give it up or pass it on in 20 years, it will be worth twice what you paid for it. If we can still buy diesel. or make it at home. 8)
11 quarts of drain oil, ready to go north to the neighbors barn shop heater.
FWIW I use Lucas Oil Additive in everything - engine, hydraulic, axles. It's not cheap, but it really works, and the stuff will stick to your cylinder liners which will be huge up north when it's cold.
I'm in more of the synthetic oil is your friend camp for cold weather. It doesn't take long for a good synthetic 5w/40 to build oil pressure on a cold start, but boy standard 15w/40 diesel oil I've been ready to shut an engine down a few times because it took so long to build oil pressure.
Quote from: jaciausa on April 22, 2023, 01:17:16 PM
Jeff, The tach cable is on the front left of motor, in front of injection pump. It goes up and back along inside of hood to speedometer.
The hydraulic oil light is way to top of speedo a little to right. Its hard to see even when lit up. If its good the light should go out.
Well, this is why the tach dont work. Not sure how it attaches even.
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That will do it alright.
Looks like your missing some pieces. Going from memory there is a drive hub that goes inside the timing cover and engages that 90° adaptor. Kind of a funky setup but I believe there are 2 bolts that hold a flange of sorts to the timing cover. Clean the gunk off the front of the timing cover hole and it should be more clear. Digging deep in the brain the 90 degree adaptor goes into a recess in the timing cover and has 2 bolts with washers. The washer go over the flange of the adaptor and keep it in.
At a minimum you need to get that hole covered up as it allows oil to exit and dirt and debris to enter the oil pan.
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Part #25 is still on your timing cover, if you clean it off good IIRC there is a recess that #24 fits down into. There's 2 holes shown in #25 that should have bolts with washers that will hold #24 into the recess. It appears #27 is missing from your machine, hopefully it isn't down in the timing cover.
Unless your set on having a tach, i would get the 2 holes cleaned out in the timing cover and make a little plate to cover the hole and bolt it on with some RTV.
It dont look like taking the radiator out is a simple little thing. And i may have to do do anything with it. The previous owner said it had not worked in the 9 years he had it, and he said he had no idea why. I do.
Jeff, you've put more care into that machine and learned more about about it in 3 weeks than the previous owner did in 8 years. That's a great start.
A guy could probably put some kind of aftermarket diesel tach on there, personally I wouldn't be too concerned about it. An engine usually has a happy rpm range that you can tell by sound, that's all I go by. For instance, my diesel pickup has a tach, but I rarely look at it. I shift by sound and feel, not what the tach says🤷
I would think it would be handy to have when running the back hoe, I feel better than working blind. I mean some guys will turn the throttle way higher than needed and burns more fuel unnecessarily. I'd be fixing it, depending on the work involved and my ability. We ran an air vac engine of a harvester at 20,000 rpm not way up on 35,000 rpm for instance. I've seen that sucker eject a fin up through the ceiling of it's 1/8" steel housing before, just think what 35,000 rpm could do. ;D
I watch the tach on mine but I agree that sound and the feel of power usually clues me in pretty good. I know 1500 rpm vs. 2000 rpm and my digging speed will show too.
I agree I don't need the tach to run the machine, I just can't stand looking at broken stuff. In this case, the tach cable had at one time been rubbing on either a pulley or something. That little 90° end had grooves cut in it. By not looking after it, at least getting it out of the way, things coulda got a lot worse.
My backhoe hasn't had a working tach in 20 years. 3/4ish throttle and goto work.
If you do try and fix it make sure #27 the drive hub is centered in the hole. Iirc #25 can be lossened and moved so that #27 is centered up.
That setup was kind of problematic and was ditched in favor of an electric alternator driven tach later in the production run.
I guess it depends what it costs. I envision at least a hundred dollars, plus a lotta work.
That parts page you posted any of the part numbers that start with J if you swap the J for a 3 should cross to a Cummins part number.
That 90° drive adaptor is J905217 from Case and 3905217 from Cummins for instance. First glance shows its over 400 dollars.
The drive hub is another 70 bucks.
Not sure if your cable itself is usable?
Nope, cable end was broke off in the adaptor. The adaptor internally seems fine, but the case is messed up.
$400 ?? ?? Omg. No tach for me.
This is what it looks like assembled. I'm sure a used 90° adaptor exists somewhere out there, good luck finding one.
If it was mine I would plug up the hole and run it.
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I've gotten by with no tack on either backhoe we have had since 1987... we did bend a couple of pushrods on the first one a 580C with the Case engine but they were easy to change.
Just thinking......
A Hall proximity sensor, used for a tachometer. Amazon has a few choices, $20 or so.
Pineywoods figured out how to hook up a bicycle speedometer to a sawmill. The one I used would either show speed or rpm.
$400 will certainly make you think before buying. :D Prices are probably insane on anything now like that. Was thinking Ebay had one for half. And low and behold.
Ebay link deleted by ADMIN :)
About 8 years ago that part was $135 at Coleman Equipment.
I'm just going to plate over it. I'm willing to bet the cable is another hundred at least, but I can't find it in my parts book.
Could even be attached to another part to. Had a harness hook for the saw, no number, part of something else. But of course I had to point out that there is only one safety hook on a harness. The arrow pointed to the other section so partsman was confused by it.
Tach cable is D122931, about 100 bucks new, used less than half that.
So you need
D122931 Tach cable
J905217 90° drive
J905306 Drive hub
J905218 Seal
The bolts and washers get from the hardware store.
Only thing to check before going that route is that the threads in the 2 holes on the timing cover aren't stripped and are usable.
Yea, the bolts are gone. Its not a 1/4 20 bolt. I'm guessing 28, but I don't have any on hand. I'm not sure I have a tap. I'm guessing those holes bottom end.
They should be M6x1x12mm long.
Egads! Metric??
Have you ever ran a Backhoe? My first time was a BLAST! - YouTube (https://youtu.be/vKbCa1Y23H4)
Well Jeff, I had a grin so hard I thought my ears would split open just watching you. I'm no hoe expert but when you're using the hoe, it mkes it much more stable if you put the outriggers and AND the bucket to give you a 3 point load. Also, remember to curl that hoe all the way in when you start driving around or you WILL find a tree, rock or some other undesirable object to strike with it. I could see you were having fun and it's been quite a trip getting there, but now a new world opens up for you and I am a tad jealous, but you sure did earn it man!
Good on ya, mission accomplished, in style. 8)
Now ya tell me!! :D
Can you believe? :D post one to here? Crazy. :)
Sure I can believe it.
Good things come to those who roll up their sleeves and deal with things, even Metric things! :D :D
Looks like it works good, there are two large nuts under your feet when you turn backwards that have a procedure in the manual to tighten that will take most of the play out of your backhoe/tractor connection reducing the up and down bouncing when the backhoe boom is out.
If you put the front bucket in the dump position when stopped it will close the bucket cylinders to protect them and keep water out of the bucket preventing the bucket from rusting.
As mentioned when setting up to dig put the front bucket down. Putting the bucket down first before the legs because the tractor will move as you lift the front wheels then the rear legs. On surfaces that you don't want to tear up put the bucket down flat but if it does not matter and you want extra traction flip the bucket in the dump position first and you will not pull the tractor backwards as much when digging with the back bucket.
Your yard will never be the same. :)
I also recommend dropping backhoe and legs and bucket to ground while parked unattended. even off, a child in the seat could accidentally play around and drop them and no power or knowledge to lift them up, if someone was caught under them.
Happy for you! You be having fun! Now you will want to play all the time
After pricing a few parts, how in the donkey snot did this guy accomplish this? Pretty cool video.
JUNK Case Backhoe FIRE BURN Restoration Unbelievable! - YouTube (https://youtu.be/rhgVt8VVNZQ)
Yeah, that looked like fun. Congratulations!
He spent a third of what yers cost just to replace tires and tubes.
I was thinking back to when I bought my first backhoe. Yup it takes a little bit to figure out the leavers and all of the other things that seem to be happening at the same time. After some hours in the seat they will seem automatic like breathing. Looks like you were having fun and that is what it's about.
Way to go Jeff! Looks like fun!
I'm going to 2nd a couple things just to put a point on them...
Yes loader down, yes bucket curled and in when moving or using loader (it looked like to you tapped the tree behind you, I was nervous because I saw you negotiate around the tree while hoeing), you can hit and destroy things without even noticing. Yes to your yard will never be the same (I'd suggest really being aware of this, my yard is FULL of ruts which don't seem like much until you are are on the mower and they become giant potholes)! On my machine the manual suggests not extending the hoe all the way, like extend until it stops then pull it back a few inches.
It's very exciting to run a machine like that. Make sure, when you take it up to the cabin and start messing with the pond you set up your camera again. One of my favorite things is to grab a bit scoop of mud underwater then dump it over water, or even grab a big rock and do that! Uh, make sure you are wearing clothes you don't care much about.
This was probably the most self educating video I ever made. I must of said "you dummy" a half dozen times while editing it. :D
Quote from: Jeff on May 01, 2023, 10:46:24 PMhow in the donkey snot did this guy accomplish this?
Amazing but the only person that I saw actually working was da lady.
8) 8) The only difference between men and boys is the size of their toys ;D ;D 8) 8)
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Does Tammy know ya took her lid? :-X
Ill offer it back when I'm done with it. :D
I'm going to take it lose and put some loctite on the screws.
Put some RTV between the lid and timing cover and your golden.
Keep the dirt out and the oil in.
And it will "pop" when the dill pickles are sealed. smiley_thumbsup
Quote from: chevytaHOE5674 on May 02, 2023, 06:24:36 PM
Put some RTV between the lid and timing cover and your golden.
Keep the dirt out and the oil in.
Gotterdone :)
I'm a bit disappointed that Tammy has strongly suggested for me to stop referring to my Backhoe as Moe. :-\ :)
What name does she have in mind?
Not Moe.
Then call it Notmoe. :D
or some-moe
How about Larry or Curly?
Wup Wup wup wup!
MyMoe :)
referring to it as your "hoe" can get you in trouble as well.
Hopefully it doesn't have any broken welds.
I named my old Oliver backhoe Fat Albert and the name stuck as long as I had it.
Gotta name it something. ??
The name I have for it isn't allowed here. It's Moe and then a second name that starts with H.
Call it the No Moe, hoe. Or don't call it hoe, No Moe. When do you plan to take your hoe to the U.P.? It would have been more appropriate yesterday, but you could call it your Case Hoe on Cinco De Mayo. Based on some recent pictures you could call it a Cold Case but definitely not a Basket Case.
I want it up there yesterday, but this is the spring from hell. Ive had a flu cold like illness since the project, fever coming and going. Two weeks now. Jeremy borrowed Tammy's car this week, and totaled it hitting a deer. So I can't come and go as I please because we take care of Tammy's step dad who is 85, and now, Tammy is leaving tommorrow to take Stacy to Ypsilanti for surgery tuesday. I forgot the term, but her colon has colapsed within itself and they can't do it arthroscopic, so major stuff. Meanwhile I am getting pics of everything growing and the deer around like never before.
Life always gets in the way.
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Oh, and then thursday, as we were cleaning the memorial in prep for this yearsconcert, we found out our headliner, 3 dog night's lead singer fell and broke his hip, so they canceled 3 weeks out. In a scramble, yesterday we were able to get Lou Gramm, original voice of Foreigner to step in and take on as headliner.
Update Your Browser | Facebook (https://fb.watch/km2KrUTaXC/?mibextid=ZbWKwL)
Sorry to hear the woes, but the Cabin looked inviting.
What about "Old Yeller" since it an old dog but just keeps on digging?
Hoping everything goes well and everyone feels better soon. Summer is coming. :) Hopefully you guys find a solution to having another set of wheels. Life is real tough sometimes, for sure.
All I can say is thank goodness for gap insurance. Weird. 60 mph front collision, doors wont open, and the airbag never went off.
Name, digger?
Hope all feel better, and the surgery goes well.
I like ol Yeller. and the Kansas State flowers look like they will reseed themselves.
Quote from: Jeff on May 06, 2023, 10:11:04 AM
All I can say is thank goodness for gap insurance. Weird. 60 mph front collision, doors wont open, and the airbag never went off.
Probably a good thing, otherwise you end up doing 55mph with an airbag in your face. Deer etc can do a heap of panel damage, but the actual impact isn't so severe that airbags are needed, and could just make things a lot worse.
Oh, I'm happy it didnt go off.
Cabin is looking great, all the turmoil will make getting there all the sweeter. As for Naming the Case, I'm leaning towards Justin. If you say it fast enough it all makes sense.....
Scott B.
Justine! 8)
That could make da other N's feel lost n forgotten. :(
Just don't name it Christine....
Eartha Moving Kitt
Oh no, sweety will get used constantly and sweaty, well he just lounges here at the house.
Name it "Heigh".
(Heigh hoe, Heigh hoe, it's off to work we go...) ;D
My fellerbuncher is named Big Pig, because one day working on it climbing up and over everything I commented that "this thing sure is one big pig" and the name stuck.
Today I took the hood off so I could clean the rest of the engine compartment. I'm glad I did. Radiator hose has been patched with what looks like gorilla tape. Plus, something had to move out and find a new home some time ago. Got a better shot at the engine with the power washer. The oil was just caked in the front radiator shroud from that tach cable opening I closed up.
I also sanded and painted the hood panels.
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Good work getting it all cleaned up and fixing the little issues. Getting it clean and keeping it clean makes it much easier to spot problems early, and makes it nicer to work on.
Fist thing I do to anything coming in my shop is steam clean it because it makes life so much better.
Somebody besides me like it. ;)
I had 2 dogs that would follow me around. They somehow feared the tractor. They somehow learned to keep out of the way, did not matter if I was going forward or backwards.
I was not worried about running either dog over.
I like the helper and that your checking and fixing things inside and out. It's nice to give the Beast a little TLC and have a little pride in it 💪
Ready for a ride north, as soon as it can be fit into the hauler's schedule. :)
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Well done!
Pretty amazing. Less than 6 months to figure it out, get it done, and make it happen. Congratulations.
nice back hoe Jeff, what did you do with the old one? :)
Now the work....ermm, fun will soon begin. ;D
Good work Jeff! You've gotta name it. My John Deere backhoe started out as John, then was changed to Juan as he does the work of 10 Mexicans, and my wife changed it to Juanita to fit in with all of my other equipment named after old ladies: Margaret the farmall M, Milly the sawmill, Delores the dozer, etc. :)
Uncle had three milk cows he called: Nora, Dora and Cora. :)
Wow looks like a new machine. You going to put a tracker on it or build a pole barn to keep it out of sight in? Can't wait to see videos of it working.
Just gotta keep it parked in front of the 24/7/365 camera. :)
Tamarack Ridge Militia.
I think she's ready for a parade, pulling a float might be a little tricky. Looking good, now go get that thing dirty!
Scott B.
Jeff, maybe this was covered but do you have access to hydraulic hoses up north? If not you may want to grab a few before you go. You'll have to estimate some sizes that would be good, but a too-long-hose won't hurt too bad, if you needed one. A good day working the hoe may show a few new failure points, though it looks like you've taken care of many!
I've actually considered that but have not followed through yet. I'm sure I can get hoses up north, but probably not without driving 50 miles.
Check with any local auto parts stores around, many make hydraulic hoses.
Keeping extra hoses on hand is hard as there are probably 10 different fittings on that machines, 4 different diameter hoses, and 30454x different lengths. You would need a variety of hoses, union fittings, and adaptor fittings to have any chance.
I keep some plug fittings, caps and adapters of different sizes around so when I pop a hose on a cylinder that I can't quickly valve off, I cap it off and limp back to the barn instead of being stuck in the back 40 and spraying fluid on the ground trying to pull a hose in the mud and poison ivy.
Then I can pull the hose at my shop where the tools are, carry it to town and have a heart attack when they tell me how much the new hose will cost.
Robert, I bought a complete set of jic plugs and caps exactly for that reason.
Lots of tractor shops here make hydraulic hose, well cut to length and the fittings added on. Some don't and have to order everything. I ran into both with Kabota, one shop can make them up in minutes and the other would take all day to find the part number. ;D
That's pretty much what happened this morning. We ended the day yesterday with the newly repaired lull under a limb with DB in the basket making firewood in midair over an outbuilding and letting it drop in the basket. One dropped down between the basket and the front cylinder. I tried to lower him and it pinched it and broke a fitting. He came back with the fitting and a fistful of plugs, we had caps but no plugs yesterday ::). I think there will be an ammo box under the seat with a few basic get out of jail free tools and parts. By the end of the day we had patched the old farmhouse roof, a barn roof there and reinstalled a hayloft door on another barn just down the road before loading it up and heading home. Iron can be frustrating but oh so productive.
Geez Don, you guys can't seem to win even at loosing! Sorry man. We haven't even got the sky trak fixed and the boss added another one to the stable 2 days ago.
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Not sure what this needs yet.
Are you even sure what it is?? :D
OH yeah, it's a dynahoe 190-4. A bit of a beast, more of a 'loader/backhoe' than a backhoe wit an FEL. It's a split bucket.
The chain looks to be holding the front end of the body/rad on. She's been worked over hard. :D
Yup, buy it cheap and repair it is the motto. That chain is actually holding in the bucket curl cylinder and the excess was thrown over the radiator housing.
I laughed when Bill bought that forwarder about a year ago, really clapped out and still needs work, but all the bunks are now replaced and it still needs more stuff and it is moving logs around on his place weekly.
"We got it right, bought it at the wore out price :)"
Jeff did you buy all the jic caps and plugs separately or did you find a kit somewhere? I do enough wrenching should already have a set not just the few miscellaneous ones I've accumulated.
The machine looks great all cleaned up.
Not sure if you have a pressure washer up north or not to keep it clean. I tried one of those garden hose ends that supposedly increases pressure by 10x or something thinking it was a $10 gimmick. I was pleasantly surprised. If you don't let it get away from you a little purple power or some degreaser and that nozzle works surprisingly well. It's not a pressure washer but works good for the money. I'll get a picture of the one that lives on the hose in front of the shop.
I bought a complete set on Amazon, well, 2 of each in plugs and caps. It was about 50 bucks. Turns out there were 3 or 4 in the on-board toolbox too.
Yeah those garden hose wands work. You can get cheap ones at Marden's or better ones here at Industrial supply shops. Gotta watch that you get one with a female end and not a male end because those adapters they sell around here are garbage and you'll need a rain suit to use the wand. Hard to find a good rubber hose seal to ,all they sell in stores is Teflon or plastic things, not real rubber ones. And they don't cut it. :D If I ever came across a box of them garden hose rubber seals, I'd snatch them up quick. The little things all matter. :D
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That's all it is. Supposedly 40 percent less water and 10x the pressure. We've since picked up 4-5 more for other hoses around. Will say it's not what you want if you're in a hurry filling buckets :D
I have no problem finding the hose washers at the box stores or at ACE Hardware. Get them 10 to pack. You can order them.
https://www.acehardware.com/departments/lawn-and-garden/watering-and-irrigation/garden-hose-connectors/74129 (https://www.acehardware.com/departments/lawn-and-garden/watering-and-irrigation/garden-hose-connectors/74129)
Try the plumbing section on those rubber washers.
They have the cheap ones in the garden hose sections.
The rubber ones cost more and you got less but they last longer, they were in the plumbing section where the sink stuff is.
Or in the hardware store I use to work in.
Not all washers and O rings are petroleum friendly. The ones that are not will absorb petroleum and swell. Not good.
If you do get one that swells and you don't have the correct replacement just boil it in water, maybe 10 minutes and the petroleum is driven out and the O ring shrinks back to it's original size. I have had very good luck with this.
Also, for cleaning equipment the very best de-greaser applicator I have found is a silver (water) fire extinguisher. Put a cap full of Purple Power into the chamber, fill the rest of the way with water, and pressurize it up until the needle is in the green - regular compressor and a chuck works with the Schrader valve the same as a tire. When the mixed cleaner comes out it foams up like no tomorrow and the stuff stays foamy and in place for maybe 10 minutes, gets into all the cracks and crevices. Clean it up with the pressure washer and the difference is amazing.
Quote from: rusticretreater on May 13, 2023, 07:01:59 PM
I have no problem finding the hose washers at the box stores or at ACE Hardware. Get them 10 to pack. You can order them.
https://www.acehardware.com/departments/lawn-and-garden/watering-and-irrigation/garden-hose-connectors/74129 (https://www.acehardware.com/departments/lawn-and-garden/watering-and-irrigation/garden-hose-connectors/74129)
They're not the good rubber ones. Amazon and big box stores have these cheap knockoffs everywhere. The worst kind are the ones moulded in plastic like model kits. A lot of the orange ones are the same, when you open a box they are stuck together like model kits to or you will see evidence where they had an attachment point. It's the same with garden hoses now, they call it rubber, but it is plastic and goes stiff with well water, thus making kinks that are permanent and soon crack or cut off water flow entirely. Gotta let the hot sun soften it up. :D I had a good rubber garden hose that I had to cut and use for something. I should never have cut it, never found another one any good. That hose was over 30 years old and still good rubber. And had a good rubber seal and the threads for the tap where well machined without slop (so wasn't the tap) so it never leaked. This is what happens when you let quality slide with cheap offshore manufacturing.
swampdonkey, I bought a hose when I lived at my other house, almost 40 years ago, I still have it today. Yes, I paid a lot for it, but it has lasted. That is a true rubber hose.
I know what you mean about hoses that are no good.
I use to work at a hardware store and we had some cheap hoses. The boss use to store use them for us to water the plants outside. We had to turn them off if we had to help a customer if we were watering or they would burst. ::) He always said we had to much water pressure. I would tell him I run 150# at my house and leave the water on for hours and have no problem with a good hose.
But he knew everything. ::) But these was the real cheap ones.
You are right about hoses. Even some of the high priced ones will still kink up.
No idea if that link are the ones I use, but they look like it. I have good luck with them. Well, I say good luck, they last a year. I have about 10 spigots and I usually replace the washers each year. These I take off and drain the water. I use them on the nozzles for the hoses too. If I don't take them off, the washers stay on until they start to leak, which maybe be years.
Man, that's genius right there! I have about 5 of these I keep set up during the non-freezing months. One or two ride in the mule strapped in (brush fires do pop up with the neighbors) and one in the shop and one out by the burn pile. Often have one in the truck. But I never thought of adding anything to the water, that's really smart!
Also could a moderator delete my two prior [blanked] up replies? I seem to be having some difficulty this morning with quotes and replies.
refillable water fire extinguish is handier than a pocket on a shirt!
Southside, I thought I'd heard it all, but that is good idea!
I don't know about you guys but I'm officially looking for one of those refillable water fire extinguishers now. I gotta give that a try.
I think I might have one buried in the corner of the u.p. shed
I've got two, the back pack kind. Not the same as Southside's. :D
Yeah Swamp, and I'll bet a bucket of sawdust that they are made by D.B Smith & co. out of Utica NY. Wish I still had one. I rebuilt about 6 of those from parts for our Local Scout camp. First on the market in 1925 and still going strong. I will say though after having spent a bunch of hours bouncing one on my back through the woods, they can be a little rough on a body. :D They put out a good stream, but I don't think they will put out much medium pressure water for cleaning. Worth a try though. I do know they work well for waking up tent mates that are trying to sleep through the morning camp chores. ;D
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For you other guys, just make sure you check those containers carefully before filling. If they were left through the winter with water in them, cracking and spitting is a real risk and they are a pressure vessel so check for deformities and stretch marks. Also be very sure to look at the pressure limits for your tank and NEVER exceed them. Every couple of years there are accident reports and firefighters getting hurt or killed at the station refilling these improperly. Usually they grab a high pressure line intended for filling air bottles (to 1,750 or 3,000 psi) thinking they can just 'throttle it down' and that doesn't work. Once properly filled with water, these have a very small air space and fill quick.
Also, those gages are cheap as dirt and don't last long, make sure you confirm the reading on the gage to some known gage at the beginning of the season. I bought 3 new gages to change out on mine last year, and I will do that before my season refilling session. The rest of the parts for those should be available at any fire equipment store and many brands are interchangeable, some are not.
For another fun use: you can use these to fill water balloons, but you have to be VERY quick. :D ;D If you give it to two young kids with a bag of balloons, it can be more fun watching that, then watching the water balloon fight later. :D
You know us young folks can be very impressionable sometimes. ;D You guys got me on this thought train so today I checked my charged extinguishers, emptied one and put a new gage on it, then recharged it.
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That one above has a new gage and you will not the top head design is what I call 'standard' for me here.
I have two oddballs and one is not save-able that I can tell, this is the other one in the foreground, note the much wider bung.
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The hole in the top of this can is just big enough to slide a beer soda can in, I don't know why. You will also note the gage on this is broken. The problem here is that most of these units have a gage with the pipe stud in the center of the back, this one has a special oddball agae that has the vent on the bottom and off center. I doubt I could ever find one and it's probably just available from the manufacturer. But this model is long since out of production. No matter I just fill them all to 70 or 80 PSI and call it good.
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I did think of one more use for these things I thought I could share. For folks who heat with oil and ever have issues with the fuel supply jelling up and clogging line in really cold weather (like we do) draining one of these extinguishers and filling with just air makes a great way to purge out that line back to the tank. Works like a charm, every time. :)
Original Tool box contents, other than copy of Bill of sale.
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I don't see any tools in there :D.
:D I think you are right! Technically, the folding wood rule is a fuel guage.
I think it's well known but the backhoe will tell you if you've waited too long to grease, by its creaks and groans.
I went out, just for a bit, yesterday to add some more dirt to the barn and flatten it out and man, have I been neglectful. She needs greased bad. I'd already had the dashboard dangling on the tractor so I didn't feel like greasing before went out.
:D About those back packers. I let the truck carry them. Gotta have one at the ready around thinning crew. Never knew a thinning crew to set the woods on fire, but never know. ;)
Tentative transport day is next Sunday.
This is as low as I can get it tucked close and the bucket down.
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If the trailer is long enough you can put the dipper out the other way to lower the boom some more, I would block/cover the exhaust outlet for that long of a trip even though it is not a turbo to keep dirt and rain out.
Quote from: Hilltop366 on May 24, 2023, 12:26:45 PM
If the trailer is long enough you can put the dipper out the other way to lower the boom some more, I would block/cover the exhaust outlet for that long of a trip even though it is not a turbo to keep dirt and rain out.
One empty vegtable or soup can and a bungee cord. Cheap insurance.
GAB
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We cover the exhaust on ours when not in use to keep the rain out with a plastic bleach container with a hole cut in it but for transport a soft ball or wad of tape with some full wraps of duct tape around the pipe would be better for a long haul.
i think the angle is designed to at least keep straight falling rain out. cannot be too careful.
What's the difference if it was a turbo? I can't imagine how road wind could spin up a turbo through the exhaust side.
looks to be about the same height as the cab.
If the exhaust is clamped on, I'd suggest just removing it for the trip to keep it from rattling, or catching the wind.
I used a coffee can with a rope tied around a brick to cover my exhaust when is was outside. Mine points into the wind and if I were roading it somewhere I'd just want to keep weather and bugs and junk out.
On another note- I just had a guy come out and give me a price to remove, rebuild, and reinstall the two biggest cylinders on my hoe; the one to the boom and the secondary one that goes out to the stick. Anyone paid for that kimd of service? What were you charged? I was surprised at what I wss quoted, but I don't know if it's ridiculous or not.
Quote from: doc henderson on May 24, 2023, 03:42:32 PM
i think the angle is designed to at least keep straight falling rain out. cannot be too careful.
Once in a while we get straight falling rain but usually not, then there is snow too.
Quote from: Jeff on May 24, 2023, 04:37:04 PM
What's the difference if it was a turbo? I can't imagine how road wind could spin up a turbo through the exhaust side.
Pretty unlikely but for some it is standard practice to cover it.
It appears that your tail pipe is turned toward the tractor. Mine was and I was getting some fumes, so I turned it outward.
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Problem solved.
It actually points right from the drivers forward point of view
Quote from: Jeff on May 24, 2023, 04:37:04 PM
What's the difference if it was a turbo? I can't imagine how road wind could spin up a turbo through the exhaust side.
Even if you have some rain on the way UP, starting it to get it off the trailer will quickly take care of any bit of moisture that gets in the engine through the exhaust. You should be good to go. IMO
If you're worried about water it looks like a big baking potato would plug it nicely. Just don't forget to pull it out at the other end ;D . I saw you got all the leaks taken care of but wondering if you found and fixed the brakes? Probably going to need a diesel tank for your truck once you get going up there. Have fun.
around here we can find 300-gallon ag tanks on stands and you can have a smaller tank for you truck to bring it home or have it delivered. red dye since it is off road work. or a 100-gallon tank on a pallet and get some forks for the bucket to set it in and take it out. Do youhave a sawmill to make some lumber to make a pallet? :D :D
Around here you will loose your homeowners insurance if you add a permanently installed 300 gallon tank. A couple months back I picked up a cheap plastic 58 gallon tank for that reason and looking for a used containment pallet to set it on. This is the one I bought.
Switching To Off Road Dyed Diesel In Bulk For My Tractors - YouTube (https://youtu.be/PgYDnKE-GIM)
not in Ks for diesel fuel. I do not know about MI. i remember in NY the application to own a pistol was a quarter inch thick. rural area are allowed to take care of themselves.
Air flow while on a trailer will spin a turbo and since there is no oil being pushed onto the bearings, well it's not a good thing. Myself, I would grab some duct tape and put a couple of pieces across the opening and then a good wrap around those to keep out the small bird that decides to cross the highway at the wrong time and shoots down the pipe, manages to wiggle through the burnt section of muffler baffle and dies with her head wedged between the open exhaust valve and the seat. On a good note following this thread you would be familiar with how to address that issue should it happen. To me the duct tape is cheap insurance.
Interesting discussion of spinning turbo's in this link.
Viewing a thread - Turbo spins while transporting equipment? (https://talk.newagtalk.com/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=438735&DisplayType=flat&setCookie=1)
Quote from: doc henderson on May 24, 2023, 10:41:51 PM
not in Ks for diesel fuel. I do not know about MI. i remember in NY the application to own a pistol was a quarter inch thick. rural area are allowed to take care of themselves.
I think all states go by the epa spill rules. I was told any spill over 55 gallons on or near water or 110 gallons of diesel anywhere else must be reported to the epa and that can cost your insurance company a fortune should there be a spill. Doesn't mater if it's a tank splitting, machine hitting a tank and damaging it, accident or just a leak. That's why I stayed under 55 gallons. It's one of the questions when we changed homeowners insurance along with type of dogs.
My and my wife's pistol permits were just a 4 page questionnaire and 3 sheets of references with a hundred dollar bill. 4 weeks later we had them. That was after my wife was a juror on that Brawley trial for over a year and we got threats. Now it's a one year process in NY and we have to renew every couple years. Plus 7 rounds limit in most areas.
you may well be right. i am in the do not ask do not tell group now. It was years ago that I checked into it. I have a 100 gallon on a pallet and a 300 on a small trailer. I take great care to not waste fuel or contaminate the earth. the handgun permit in NY was back in 1990s. i know it can be done, but I was only there for 4 years, did not carry except in my car or when camping. I had a friend from Ks go through in a semi-truck and got pulled over as his tags were from Ks. he got arrested as the troopers knew a trucker from Ks would have a gun. He was honest when asked.
Up my way it is 20 litres and the DOE or the coast guard is suppose to be notified.
I have 6 five gallons cans for diesel.
I have a 40 hp tractor and I am on it a lot and that will keep me in fuel for a couple weeks easy.
It's only a spill if it's an uncontrolled release. Most tanks these days have a built in secondary spill apron which is containment in case of a leak, and also companies like Uline sell spill containment trays that will hold the spill which are very effective, as well as is a concrete "pond" or depression. Even a Walmart Little Mermaid swimming pool would suffice as spill containment.
The most important thing is a good ground rod. It's diesel fuel, so it's not really an ESD or spark hazard, but it's an easy thing to install.
@aigheadish (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=53516) I broke both of the curl cylinders on my Kubota a few years ago. I removed them and delivered to a hydraulics shop. It was about $650 for them to repair the shafts and replace all of the seals.
Meanwhile, while Tammy and I worked the memorial concert all weekend,
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Well now; YES YOU CAN! 8)
She really looks at hoe M there. :)
Made it there intact! 8)
Take some "before" pictures of your UP dirt... I think it will soon look different. ;D
Up there, I expect the first "framed" pic within the week ;D.
I'm afraid I'll be off my feet a day or two. What ever my joint problems are, I was looking forward to that day being over. I sat down for a few moments as the last people were leaving and we began disassembly and pick up. There is always Ceremony the following morning, so every thing needs to be back to normal, and the Statues covered for the Ceremony.
My view was inspiring to get back up and at it.
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No greater Love than this
2 more pieces for the cabin. A local yard/estate sale. $15 for the tiller, $100 for the never used snowblower.
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You got'r made, Jeff. smiley_thumbsup
What are you planting this year? Is it a dryer spring without too much water flowing over the ground? I don't know if it's dryer here yet, it's suppose to be damp and cool for the next week after today.
93F here on the porch, just working 60% days in that heat. By about noon you can barely lift your feet and I make trails to walk on, no climbing brush at the end of the day for me.
Those front tine tillers, they are great for busting new ground. A friend of mine replaced a 5 or 6hp engine with a 13 hp he had laying around. Just for kicks😊 That thing worked awesome, the power and extra weight made for a nice smooth tiller.
Yeah, those front tines jobs do a good job. I had two, gave my to my Daughter and SIL, the other I kept and use it for 45 minutes a year. I think the gas in it is 3 years old, starts right off every year with one little shot of either.
They will bust ground well, but also your back in the process as well as squeeze a lot of sweat out of you. But they work good and are usually fairly cheap. I can't imagine running one with 13HP on board. Maybe the weight helps but geez that's a lot more to wrestle, and wrestling is the name of the game until you hit that special stride.
Good luck with both those toys, you got yourself a steal there!
Strap it to the bucket.
Old Mr Kyles was about 197 years old and had a small place with a big garden on my way to school. When I started school he was the last hunched over old farmer I knew of to still use a mule. By the time I graduated he had outlasted the mule and finally had bought himself a front tine tiller.
I'm telling ya, that big engine made it a completely different machine. It eliminated most of the wrestling l, it just purred and pulled itself along.
Interesting BB. Mine 'pulls itself along' too, and I spend most of my energy pulling it back. :D I want to churn up where we are now, not move on to new ground quite yet. ;D I like to go deep and when mine gets deep, then it hums along for a bit until I try to move 'just a little' forward and the fight begins. :D In any event, it works quite well and I am really happy with my free investment in it. My shoulders hurt for a day or so after, and I swat a lot, but that is what keeps me from an early death, I suppose. ;D
Well to be fair, this was 20 years ago, so it was a 27 year old running it😊
Had a front tine one for years, Troy Built from the 70's. It jumped and kicked like a horse all the way down the garden. :D I got a rear tine one, I don't have to fight with Mr Ed no more. :D I do have a little front tine one, that is more of an edging tiller, I use that in the small 4x8' gardens and also to mix manure and fertilizer in when planting onions and vine crops. It jumps off rocks, but at least it is not a beast. :D
Brother mentioned a neighbor getting a front tine tiller this spring. Said he was pleased with it, and he's just got a garden about 10 x 16 feet. I never gave my two cents, but I was thinking to myself, I'm glad I've moved on. ;) The neighbor has a bad back and bad heart.
I have a 5 foot tiller on the back of my JD 850. It has lived on the JD for 30 years, only coming off a few time. It is tough too cause the tractor does not have AC. :snowball:
We rent one when needed and have a front tine and a rear tine. It's been over a decade. The planted ground is pretty much beyond tilling it anymore, it gets turned or forked pretty lightly. Well in the good places anyway. Michelle wanted a rotavator and I preferred renting it. i said Honey, I use it once a year and return it with something broken every year. This is a perfect arrangement for me! ;D" This is where rocks are born though.
Garden tillers. With about a 3 degree curse correction, this could sail into a food thread. lol
Oh yeah?! what kind of oil do you run in your tillers?
Vegetable oil because if it leaks into the garden there will be no consequences. ;D
I'm in the rear tine tiller group, had a front tine and that darned thing would throw itself all over the place trying to break new ground. Our soil here has a lot of clay in it though so that likely didn't help :D. A rear tine Troy model with forward and reverse purchased several years ago, while still work is so much easier on this old body 8)
When we were still gardening (deer population ended our garden joy a few years ago) I just used the tractor with scarifier then disc to prep garden then tiller for seed bed rows. Sure miss those great veggies!!
Actually... I got to grinding again yesterday and noticed I had dry boxes on the mill. I'm not 100% positive that oil cannot get into contact with the corn... it would take some doing, but. I remembered the mineral oil on a shelf in the shop so that is what it is running on.
I clicked on this because of another memorial a few miles up the road. June 6 is the 79th remembrance of the D-Day invasion.
About The Memorial & Bedford - National D-Day Memorial (dday.org) (https://www.dday.org/learn/about-the-memorial-and-bedford/)
Thanks to @Corley5 (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=27) , I am finding out, putting tire chains on of this size require a little umph on my part that I have not had of late. I'll get her eventually.
Thanks for the chains Greg!
These are 25" by 19.5. My tires are 24" by 17.5" I should be able to make them fit.
I had two new dipper teeth in the toolbox, so I ordered the retaing pins, and replaced the missing outside tooth, and replaced the other outside tooth so the long ones are on the outside. Have no idea if it matters. I may go for a woods walk before I continue on the chains.
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Argh! Those extra hoses are causing a clearance issue
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With bigger chains like that, I usually hook a regular chain to one end, go up over the tire and then shove the tag end under the tire. Then just drive them on, let the machine lift them. Tire chains give enough of a fight without having to lift them on, too.
What the heck Jeff. You don't even have to drive with the rig you have jacked up like that. Just tie the end of the chain to the wheel with a hunk of rope. put the machine in gear and spin the wheel slowly around to the proper spot and hook them up. Easy peasy. ;D
I run double rings in the summer and trygg studded in the winter. If it wasn't easy I would not be switching them out with the season. My wheels are 16.9 x 28 and those trygg's are really heavy. I'm not a big guy and a senior citizen so like to take the easy way. :D
They are about 3ft to long...
Extra parts😎
You may need to get a tire chain tool.
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You can use this to repair and change your tire chains with repair links and other such things.
Jim Rogers
Mine were MIA when Jeff was here to get the chains. I was going to send them with him. They've since been found. An angle grinder with a cut off wheel is handy as well as a big pair of Channel Locks or a purpose built chain wrench to fasten the hooks.
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I've cut chains to fit and had good success. As long as the tread width is good, you can shorten the length (circumference) to fit the tire. After snapping the latches, I ran with bungees in an X across the wheel to tighten up any extra slack. smiley_thumbsup
If you're using bungee cords your chains aren't on tight enough. Old county plow drivers taught me that and they're right.
Corely5 is right. No bungees needed on chains that are fitted correct.
Not saying you're wrong, but I know for a fact there are plenty of plow trucks, tractors, semis + trailers, and 4 wheel vehicles that use bungees. They even make a "Spider" bungee specifically for that purpose.
And those installations are wrong. I've had chains on all manner of vehicles and would never consider using "tighteners". It's an improper installation. Especially in heavy duty applications. Springs, bungee etc will be ripped off and you'll throw chains.
I've even let air out of the tires, installed the chains, then reinflated them.
Whether right or wrong, it worked.
Springs, bungee etc
That speaks volumes and most of it not good
GAB
Never had to use anything extra here to secure chains on skidder or tractors. Make'm fit. ;)
I always put chains on my skid steer in the winter. The first few years tried various things to keep tight, bungees, springs, cables, etc and nothing worked. The last few years I learned to remove the wheel and install the chains good and tight by using speed links to take up any slack. Haven't had any issues since.