Thanks to a tree taking out my old Jobber J100 mill and it being insured I now find myself with a new Logosol F2+mill. Just looking for some info on switching over to .325 from 3/8 as each click on the new mill is = to that instead of the 3/8.
I think there may be some confusion here . The 3/8 VS .325 is only related to the spacing of the rivets that hold the chain together . It has nothing to do with the kerf , granted a .325 chain is going to have a thinner kerf . I hope this helps .
But the kerf you cut in the wood is smaller with a .325" chain than with a 3/8". i don't think a .325 chain will hold up to the force of a 395. i chainsaw milled alot in my early years with a 088 and .404" chain, the 3/8 would've been too weak for the big powerhead
You can do it with a cannon bar it'll be a custom order but they do offer them. As far as big saws and milling my 3120 and cs 1201 both use 3/8's without issues of breaking chains.
I have been using a 24" 3/8 canon bar and ripping chain for the past several years with no chain breaking issue. I also am not milling anything over 20" and almost entirely spruce.
Just was wanting the kerf to match the clicks on the log lifters to simplify things for me. I also like the slightly less waste.
Thank you folks for your help. Always appreciated
I think .325" might hold up as long as the log/cut wasn't too wide/too much load. I know aussies race with .325" on big ported saws, but short bars in soft wood. @Spike60 (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=13669) ?
I threw my 2 cents in on the other thread, regarding setting up a 395 for .325 pitch. The spacing is also different between the drive links, hence the need for different sprockets to run it. And I don't think there's any such thing as .325 rip chain. Why not just stick with what works?
Quote from: Spike60 on December 29, 2022, 08:55:35 AM
I threw my 2 cents in on the other thread, regarding setting up a 395 for .325 pitch. The spacing is also different between the drive links, hence the need for different sprockets to run it. And I don't think there's any such thing as .325 rip chain. Why not just stick with what works?
My main reason for wanting to do this I explained above. It would help to simplify my milling process having my kerf match my log lifter clicks.
I ran a normal Husky chain filed to 10 before giving these ripping chains a try. Now that I have tried both I don't quite get what the advantage of the ripping chains are. Maybe the difference shows more when milling the larger stuff, I don't know.
I have come across folks who have done this with their 660/661 for use on these mills , so was wanting to know if I could also with my 395.
The Logosol chainsaw mills are not like other chainsaw mills, in that even though a chainsaw is doing the cutting they are not meant for cutting big logs. So the chain is not buried in a 36" wide cut, probably less than 10" most of the time. Due to that they don't need the strength of a 3/8 chain.
GH, what is the maximum size log you can cut on your's?
The max recommend width is their 70 cm which I understand as 27.5 inches. Slightly more then my old Jobber J100 could do. Although I have done some reading about how you can somehow mount this mill to the log upside down and gain the ability to mill much larger.
It will be a few years before I am milling anything over 20" for the most part. And zero hardwoods before then. I am just milling lumber for myself as I clear a patch of land I want cleared.
My goal is to get somewhat proficient at milling before I drop any of my high value Yellow Birch , Red Oak , Red Spruce, Sugar Maple , White Pine logs to mill. If I ever do . Just don't wanna be learning on the nice stuff and figured learning on the old farm field spruce and red maple would teach me more then the nice stuff without as much of a loss when I mess things up haha
White pine is nice stuff? What will you do with it? I have a few logs I saved to mill, but I'm not super excited about it. I saved them cause it's rare I get wood that was still alive when it fell. Most of the stuff I get is sketchy. I figured I'd use it for crude construction products as a more or less disposable material, but I'm open to other ideas. I have three 22"x8' logs.
Quote from: lxskllr on December 29, 2022, 03:48:30 PM
White pine is nice stuff? What will you do with it? I have a few logs I saved to mill, but I'm not super excited about it. I saved them cause it's rare I get wood that was still alive when it fell. Most of the stuff I get is sketchy. I figured I'd use it for crude construction products as a more or less disposable material, but I'm open to other ideas. I have three 22"x8' logs.
Nowadays anything in Nova Scotia that isn't first generation regrowth, scrub brush , black spruce , red maple , paper birch , is nice stuff.
I have a few white pine that take two people to reach around and are straight as an arrow without a single limb for 60-80+ft .
Most of my high value trees I doubt I will ever drop. I have a very hard time justifying it given the pathetic state of the vast majority of our woods here.
But ya white pine is great for furniture and other wood working stuff.
Quote from: David B on December 28, 2022, 04:39:54 PM
I think .325" might hold up as long as the log/cut wasn't too wide/too much load. I know aussies race with .325" on big ported saws, but short bars in soft wood. @Spike60 (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=13669) ?
Use to be some guys that would run 325 on long bars on the big power heads for falling oversized.
I know someone claiming to get 1/4 kerf using Carlton Woodland Pro 30RP (3/8x050). Might be worth getting a chain and testing before changing out $$.