I haven't been real happy with the sharpening I've gotten the past few years, not that I'm thrilled with my own either. I've done 5 sets of 3 over the past couple of days. In other words, I ran till I ran out ::). Those of you that are still running straight knives, how are you sharpening?
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10017/sharpener.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1684288206)
I have a Tormek T8. How much spare time do you have? It gives a great edge.
I have the grizzly knife sharpener. It works but is "clunky" and you have to hold your mouth just right. I did the deal with a board with saw kerfs the thickness of the knives at the appropriate angle and used a sander. a new set of four is only 60 bucks. so all of the above.
I have an old cabinet model that Grizzly once sold. As Doc said kinda clunky and also not much in the way of fine adjustments. But after some modifications and a learning curve on my part, I'm able to achieve a much better job than any of the 4 sharpening services I've used.
I've never tried it as I have a couple of good sharpening services close by. A good friend used to use a belt sander to touch up his knives between sending them out. I think he only used it on the back a little but not sure.
My planer has a sharpener built into it (powermatic) It sharpens them in the cutterhead.
I used to use a Makita wet sharpener for my old belsaw 12 inch blades. Before I got that I had a machinist make an angled step block and sharpen them all at once on the surface grinder.
I had a long arm Dewalt RAS that I put a stone on. Made a jig to hold the knife. After that I bought a garage sale old Craftsman 8" table saw. Put a stone on it and made another jig to hold the blade. Slid the jig left to right across the stone. Both methods worked well, especially if I honed the blade with a few strokes after grinding. The advantage of the table saw is I left it set up so it was ready to go quick.
Finally found a local sharpening shop that did a great job (better than me) at a reasonable cost. Liked that method best!
Today the planer has a Shellix head and the jointer uses a Tersa head so no need to sharpen. Actually really sharp knives work just as well but that super sharp edge goes way to fast!
A good precise jig is essential if you don't invest in a sharpening system.
I have a done two methods with good success. Both involve a precisely mitered block of wood to affix the blades to. The first is to use a plate of glass, granite or something similar. You place a piece of fine grit sandpaper on the surface and wet it thoroughly to make it adhere to the surface. I use Marvel Mystery Oil. The wood is fashioned to slide along the edge of the plate. You then gently, gently hone the blade on the sandpaper. This is a skill you have to develop.
The second is basically the same method but I use an Arkansas stone and water. Both methods seem to yield the same results.
I've always sent my 16" knives from my Woodmizer mill planer to
Jorsen &Carlson (https://www.jorsonandcarlson.com/contact/facility_locations/elk_grove_village/egv_location.html)
I have 8 sets of knives for that machine for beam planing (and the occasional slab). I think I had two sets from Woodmizer and Jorsen &Carlson made be 6 more sets. So when I get 4 or more sets that need sharpening I send them in. On my smaller hand held power planers I will send those knives when I send knives for the above machine. Don't ask me what I pay as I haven't sent any in about 2 years or so. It was reasonable though.
I have the Grizzly dry knife grinder, it works fine with a light touch.
Don, if I have to do them myself I use a Tormek. It's slow but the edge is fantastic.
Personally I prefer to use a sharpening service. Smith Sawmill Shop (FF Sponsor) does a great job in their Polkton, NC facility. I've also been pleased with the workmanship by Union Grove Saw and Knife. They can also sharp milling cutters.
The one thing you have to remember is don't try to beat someone else at their own game. They don't try to saw lumber and I don't try to sharpen my planer knives.
Quote from: rusticretreater on May 17, 2023, 11:21:24 AMI have a done two methods with good success. Both involve a precisely mitered block of wood to affix the blades to. The first is to use a plate of glass, granite or something similar. You place a piece of fine grit sandpaper on the surface and wet it thoroughly to make it adhere to the surface. I use Marvel Mystery Oil. The wood is fashioned to slide along the edge of the plate. You then gently, gently hone the blade on the sandpaper. This is a skill you have to develop.
I have a few extra Bronco cab windows. They are flat and will hold three pieces of wet/dry sandpaper taped to them. On my 8" straight knife jointer and 13" straight knife Rockwell planer knives, I hone them on the paper taped to the glass. I start with somewhere around 400 grit and work up to 1000 or 1200. I tried making a jig but it was cumbersome at best. Now, I just match the bevel to the surface and scrub them back and forth 50 or so times per grit. The difference is significant compared to dull knives. A few scrubs on the non-beveled side seem to help too. This does not replace a proper sharpening but from removing the knives to freshening them up to reinstalling is only about 30-40 minutes.