Hoping to find someone that owns the Makita saw and can measure the base plate (LxW) for me if it's not to much trouble, Thanks.
Yaay, I needed an excuse to go visit an old soldier down in the shop ffcheesy . I've ridden a rented concrete saw, my jackhammer and then chisel upside down in oak for the last 2 days.
7-1/8 x 20-1/2"... 1-5/8 to 1-3/4 blade from left side as viewed from operator stance above.
Quote from: Don P on February 25, 2024, 05:41:47 PMYaay, I needed an excuse to go visit an old soldier down in the shop ffcheesy . I've ridden a rented concrete saw, my jackhammer and then chisel upside down in oak for the last 2 days.
7-1/8 x 20-1/2"... 1-5/8 to 1-3/4 blade from left side as viewed from operator stance above.
Lol, that's great thankyou.....
Why are you asking? Are you looking to make your own machined aluminum base plate or have someone make it for you? They were once available from Lon Tyler. Last I heard a few years ago, he needed to get enough people sign up in order to make a run of them. Not sure if he's doing it anymore. Back in 2019 someone wanted to make their own machined base so I sent him photos with dimensions of my Lon Tyler base and the parts. It works on the 3 different revisions of the Makita. Makes it much more stable to use versus the smaller factory stamped base.
the skill saw version has a thick base, Mag. I think or poss. aluminum.
I have to admit - I like my Skillsaw version better than my Makita. A machined aluminum base for the Makita may make them more equal though.
I've been staring at my dusty Skill beam saw for a while looking for alternative applications and came up with a edging attachment for my Mill and wanted to see if the Makita would also fit my setup. I'll post some pic's when it's up and running.
@Menagerie-Manor I'm interested in seeing what you come up with.
Quote from: doc henderson on February 26, 2024, 09:01:10 AMthe skill saw version has a thick base, Mag. I think or poss. aluminum.
Mine has a substantial magnesium base
Quote from: rusticretreater on February 27, 2024, 03:32:22 PM@Menagerie-Manor I'm interested in seeing what you come up with.
I need to cut several hundred planks for my current cabin build and producing cants from 20" plus logs wastes a lot of usable wide lumber So this came out of my brain.
Fabricated a re-saw trolly that can edge five 1" plank slabs at once up to 24" wide, it can also linear chamfer, groove or notch beams, and since I have the track extension and rarely cut over 12' it can store in place.
Beam saw simply drops into the tray that slides on the pipe rails to set width and locks in place.
Awesome! Yet another great upgrade that I want to do. Where did you get that tray?
Thanks for sharing!
Quote from: rusticretreater on February 28, 2024, 01:05:33 PMAwesome! Yet another great upgrade that I want to do. Where did you get that tray?
Thanks for sharing!
Built everything by hand. Tray is just two pieces of light 1-1/2 angle and 2 pieces of 1" pipe.
A machined base would be a huge improvement to the Makita. With the stamped base, even on a good day, the Makita is little more than an over-priced, under-effective wheel chock.
That is so amazing! I'm buying a MP200 to process my 2x pine. But some will need to be straight lined. Now I can!
That would've worked great on my old EZ Boardwalk. Won't work with my current mill as it's designed but that is a neat idea. ffsmiley
That straight line is pretty slick, how do you ensure cutting all the way through and not contacting the bed rails? I have a couple of the Makita 16 5/16" saws, both of the gold paint vintage. I've found them capable and stable if not particularly powerful when in 4" of hardwood, I guess it's all about technique. I keep a ripping blade on one and a cross cut blade on the other, given the iffy power, a sharp blade can make a huge difference. I've played with the Skil, it seems about the same, the tiny gear train designed for a 7 1/4" saw gives me pause. I'd much rather see gears like my Skil 127 has.
Quote from: bigblockyeti on March 03, 2024, 07:41:19 PMThat straight line is pretty slick, how do you ensure cutting all the way through and not contacting the bed rails? I have a couple of the Makita 16 5/16" saws, both of the gold paint vintage. I've found them capable and stable if not particularly powerful when in 4" of hardwood, I guess it's all about technique. I keep a ripping blade on one and a cross cut blade on the other, given the iffy power, a sharp blade can make a huge difference. I've played with the Skil, it seems about the same, the tiny gear train designed for a 7 1/4" saw gives me pause. I'd much rather see gears like my Skil 127 has.
The lowest the saw can go is about an 1-1/2" above the bunks and I added 1-1/2 removeable wood guards on top that's visible in the pic above.
Quote from: Brad_bb on February 25, 2024, 11:21:35 PMWhy are you asking? Are you looking to make your own machined aluminum base plate or have someone make it for you? They were once available from Lon Tyler. Last I heard a few years ago, he needed to get enough people sign up in order to make a run of them. Not sure if he's doing it anymore. Back in 2019 someone wanted to make their own machined base so I sent him photos with dimensions of my Lon Tyler base and the parts. It works on the 3 different revisions of the Makita. Makes it much more stable to use versus the smaller factory stamped base.
It would be a tremendous service to have a batch made again, I love mine. I know folks use the Makita with the stock base all the time, but I frankly don't know how. I expect Makita is losing business to Skil who have a heavier base from the factory, but many folks do prefer the Makita configuration.