I have to trim some tree limbs and this is my first time so I figured who could give me better advice then you guys so please forgive my ignorance just need some advice.
I bought a Husqvarna 130 Gas Powered Chainsaw, 38-cc 2-HP, 2-Cycle X-Torq Engine, 16 Inch Chainsaw.
I need a couple of recommendations if you guys would be so kind. I know this is subject to personal preference a little also.
Through my own research, from what I have read it may be a good idea to buy a carbide blade because the "stock" blade may not be the best. Any recommended manufacturer? I keep seeing Oregon. Thoughts?
As far as chain oil I've read that Harvest King is supposed to be really good. Thoughts?
Finally, instead of mixing my own, I was thinking of using Trufuel as after I am done with all the tree trimming, I will be draining everything for storage and it's not a big job. Couple of tree limbs probable totaling around 100 feet and I take really good care of my tools and equipment so would like to use quality with my equipment.
Extremely grateful for any and all advice. Thank you again.
Lets see.
Stock chain will be perfectly OK. Maybe buy a spare loop. Means you can quickly swap over chains if you accidentally hit a rock or try excavating dirt. (we have all done that at some point :veryangry: ) Carbide chain is for special uses. It doesn't actually cut as fast a sharp regular chain, but it stays sharp(ish) longer in harsh conditions. Mud covered or burnt logs etc. Firefighters often use it on their rescue saws because they are cutting through walls and roofs, hitting who knows what, and it will eventually get though anything sensible.
So, get a spare chain, and a reasonable sharpening kit. Files / guide jig / depth gauge etc. There are various options, and 100 different opinions on which is the best. But if you get one, and take the time to learn how to use it, then you will be able to resharpen the saw to cut like new. Expert level is getting it to cut better than new.
Chain oil? There is no Magic Chain Oil. It's 30 weight lube oil with some heavier sticky stuff to help it stay on the chain better. Buy what's on special, and remember to fill the tank each time you gas up the saw. The chain oil is a consumable, and gets flicked off the bar into the sawdust all the time. Important part is that it keeps flowing.
The canned premix fuels are expensive, but for your use case it might be worth the money. Regular gas degrades over time, especially if it has ethanol in it. If you use a saw regularly, it's not such a problem as the fuel is always fresh. If you might not use the saw for 6 months, and only use a few gallons a year, then the cost isn't huge.
And you should get some PPE, chainsaw chaps, and I use a forestry helmet. Face shield, ear muffs and a hard hat combined.
Fancy Chain - No
Fancy Bar Oil - No
Fancy Fuel - Probably
Fancy PPE - Yes
I'll also add watch your chain tension, and don't overtighten the clutch cover nuts.
The guide bar is just that, a guide bar. It keeps the chain going in a straight line. The chain should fit without sagging, but not tight like a rubberband. Overtightening is hard on the bar, chain, and engine crank.
The clutch cover nuts don't have to hold the world. I bought a used saw that had the nuts so tight I'm surprised it didn't pull the studs out of the case, or distort the case. On a small saw like that, wrist tension tight is more than enough, but I suppose it depends on how strong your wrists are. It only needs to hold the bar in place without slipping. Too much is too much.
Welcome to the forum!!
Ianab, did good.
I am concerned about the words "some tree limbs".
Are the trees still standing?
Or are they cut down?
Just remember chainsaws and ladders are two things that do not mix. Just fair warning/caution. I'm sure we've all done it but not a good idea especially if inexperienced. Your mention of tree limbs brought this to mind.
As was said above the word "limbs" jumps out. Go to Youtube and look at chainsaw fails, specifically folks removing limbs to see why we are concerned.
Helmet, chaps, ear and eye protection are a must. Eeek - honestly I can't get around saying that you really should be with someone who actually has qualified experience with running a saw before you do any of this. Kickback, poor saw control, etc are all things that it's very easy to overlook when you don't have qualified instruction. We all started with zero experience so there is no shame in being there and asking for assistance.
And to elaberate on the above posts, and the fact you mentioing not using a chainsaw before. If these trees are already down, it would be wise of you to watch some vidio's of how to recognize and handle spring poles. They are capable of causing very serious injury, or even the death of a sawyer.
Lots of great advice has already been given.
I just want to second getting someone to show you in person if at all possible.
Stihl and others have a manual in the box with your saw. If you have lots of other tool experience, you may be a fast learner. If not, even consider having the saw shop take you out back and helping you with a first few cuts. Stihl has "safety" videos that actually cover common scenarios, like what side to cut a log, depending on how it is supported. top or bottom or a little of both. getting the bar stuck or pinched in a cut is a rookie mistake and it will happen. It feels better to know how to avoid it, and it may only happen rarely if you read and watch other beforehand. Anyone I have taught, are required to watch the videos first. :thumbsup:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l_WdFM6EFSU&list=PLd6g-RbYE8a_uPcRmo8KTGxFvZ1mAoQje
Quote from: donbj on May 19, 2024, 10:31:13 PMJust remember chainsaws and ladders are two things that do not mix. Just fair warning/caution. I'm sure we've all done it but not a good idea especially if inexperienced. Your mention of tree limbs brought this to mind.
Truth bomb :thumbsup: