Yesterday I cut a very large, dead ash for firewood. I went to the top and started cutting the limbs and tops it broke when it fell into a steep draw. A small limb kicked my brand new chain off the bar. When I tried to put it back on the chain would not turn. The tip spun freely and the sprocket was turning. I could not see how the bar could be pinched or such. When I'd lay the chain in the groove it would bind. I took it to my repair guru today and he said I had probably kicked a burr in the drivers in the chain.
He loosened the chain loose as he could then cranked it and the chain would spin. He revved it up good and the chain started spinning then spinning freely. Afterward he tightened the chain to normal tension and it still spun freely. He said an old timer showed him that and said that process knocks the burrs off.
I like simple fixes.
That's what I've always done!
I've seen guys taking lots of time filing the burs off!
Although I don't loosen it all the way as it will throw the chain again, you want to tighten it enough just so the chain is tight(it won't be in the groove everywhere due to burs), give it one short blip, then retighten and off to the races
Just remember that came out of the bar too.
I am a filer. :wacky:
The few times it has happened to me, it seems to be only 2-3 that are bunged up.
An angle grinder will do it quick too.
It can be subtle. I have looked for the link, and it is just a couple dings. I file or sand the tang. Out in the wood in the middle of a project, I would try the spin the chain trick. :thumbsup:
Quote from: Don P on June 01, 2024, 05:39:25 PMJust remember that came out of the bar too.
Probably takes life out of bar slightly faster but... time is money I think the time saver will overall pay for itself
Quote from: thecfarm on June 01, 2024, 05:53:50 PMI am a filer. :wacky:
The few times it has happened to me, it seems to be only 2-3 that are bunged up.
An angle grinder will do it quick too.
Same here. I always take a couple extra saws and if it happens, I just put it up and fix it when I get home, but have seen it done b4. Ya'll stay safe out there splitwood_smiley
Yes I've done that trick before! But it was only on a 562xp Husky that my boss had when I was logging for him. But I've never had that problem with my Stihl's!!! Only with that 562 with a 24" bar . But it would create quite a burr sometimes and I would have to knock the burrs off with a grinder or a hand file. Like mentioned earlier that procedure is time consuming :-)
Unfortunately, I was able to get quite good at filing the burrs of my links with a Dremel tool. Never thought of this technique. Not sure if I'd try that or just grind the burrs off. My chain was being thrown off the bar at a regular interval until I put on a new bar just a few days ago. No problems since. My old bar was evidently worn beyond useful service. My lesson was to replace the bar when it starts throwing a chain for no good reason.
If you are throwing chains alot check your sprocket before replacing the bar. Cheaper fix
Also I use an old school can opener that is a perfect fit in the bar groove and really scrape clean that out. Often times a broken/chip of driver can become wedged in the bar groove making it easier for the chain to throw.
I prefer to file down a bad burr, as maybe once or twice you can "rev" it smooth, but you are definitely damaging the bar rails by doing so. Some guys use a bar rail closer that will bring the splayed open bar rails back together.
I have never used that tool, but every time I throw a chain or swap out bars,chains etc I make sure to dress the bar rail with a flat file, taking the burr off all the way around. I get pretty good life out of them. Mostly operator error causes me to toss out a bar, not wear ffsmiley
Hmmm. Interesting. I did replace the sprocket with the bar, but it did not seem that worn. I've kept it as an emergency replacement if needed. I couldn't see any obvious wear on the bar either, but have dressed it many times and virtually all the markings were worn off the bar, so I assumed that was it. Maybe it was just the sprocket.
Not sure there is a performance difference, but the sprocket I removed was integral with the clutch drum. The new one is the replaceable sprocket that fits onto splines on the drum.