Just came from my Woodmizer man's place where I had him resaw two 8x10x12' sticks with heavy wane down to 8x8 and hauled them and two freshly milled 8x10x16' sticks (from his White Pine logs) home in the bed of my 8' F250. The load was securely strapped and flagged, and the leaf springs hardly sagged, but even so, these escapades always give me the heebie-jeebies. Nary an officer of the law in sight so all went well.
This fills the last holes in my 2024 Timber Frame cut list.
Questions for the forum...
>What would you all say is a fair 2024 price (USD/BF, not delivered) for rough sawn White Pine timbers?
>Should I spray them right away to prevent blue stain? If so, would you recommend diluted bleach or should mix up some Timbor?
> Would you plane them right away? or wait until the surface dries some? If wait, how long?
Quote from: ssn vet on June 14, 2024, 11:52:29 AMJust came from my Woodmizer man's place where I had him resaw two 8x10x12' sticks with heavy wane down to 8x8 and hauled them and two freshly milled 8x10x16' sticks (from his White Pine logs) home in the bed of my 8' F250. The load was securely strapped and flagged, and the leaf springs hardly sagged, but even so, these escapades always give me the heebie-jeebies. Nary an officer of the law in sight so all went well.
This fills the last holes in my 2024 Timber Frame cut list.
Questions for the forum...
>What would you all say is a fair 2024 price (USD/BF, not delivered) for rough sawn White Pine timbers?
>Should I spray them right away to prevent blue stain? If so, would you recommend diluted bleach or should mix up some Timbor?
> Would you plane them right away? or wait until the surface dries some? If wait, how long?
To your first question - What length are you desiring.
I charge more per bdft for longer material. Harder to get long logs than short ones.
To your last question - It probably depends on what tooling you are planning to use. You should probably worry about tear out if the wood is too wet. I wonder if sanding could be done sooner than planing.
GAB
16 footers.
Planer is a converted 12" Delta "lunchbox" planer that now looks (kinda) like a Makita hand held 12" timber planer.
I've found that sanding wood that's not fairly dry clogs up the sand paper very quickly. And I use the planer to square up the timbers (especially smaller ones) that moved a little while air drying.
I think good airflow and time is the best thing for the next few months. timbor doesn't do much for blue, Clorox will knock it back but if it isn't in good drying conditions it'll be a losing battle in summer.
Well, YMMV but speaking just from my own narrow experience here in the Catskills of NY, I have not had any luck at all trying to plane or sand fresh cut EWP, just too wet and sappy. Even if the wood doesn't get messed up, the machines will...in no time flat. Cleaning a planer can be a real bear of a job. OTOH, it won't take a lot of time (relatively), to at least get the surface air dried enough to do something with it. (weeks, not months) I don't plane anything over16% MC because it's a losing preposition and/or tough on the machine.
With regard to treatment, if I don't put timbor or some borate product on that stuff as soon as I mill it, it will be filled with the the beetles in no time flat. To prevent the staining, get a lot of airflow on it to get the surface moisture off ASAP. I suppose the bleach might kill the mold before it starts, but the mold needs moisture to grow and flow. Keep the air on it and the rain off it.
I'm not an expert, but these are things I have learned the hard way. Most of what I have milled in the last 3 years has been EWP.
Let it dry for best results while planing. Wet sticky pine shavings are a pain, and as the wood dries it will shrink a little uneven, especially around knots. So dry, then plane will give a more even surface. Anything you spray on will only be a surface coating, and may not help with internal blue stain. Getting the wood dry quickly is the best option there. You are in Summer now, so airflow is your friend.
And, do you have bugs that get into pine? We do here, so a spray with borax mix can help with that (and surface mold)
My experience in CT: I have found that once you get EWP logs cut into cants, covered and drying you've taken off most sapwood. The risk of blue molding and pine weevil boring will be minimal if any further.