Well, the woodshop and stove are all done this month. I see some nice tools starting to arrive by carrier. As soon as the new laptop arrives we need a small tour. ffsmiley My next task, for my man servent, is to get in the firewood. Ya, my cousin had a good belly laugh when I used that wording. She's a nurse, now studying for a masters to teach the profession, and she's in charge of that roost. Ah, but we love her to death. ffcheesy ffcheesy ffcheesy
Noticed an add in 'Canadian Woodworking', for a spiral cutter head designed for my Dewalt735 thickness planer. Released in 2022 by Sheartak.com . Anyone ever see or try one? They make'm for many brands.
https://www.sheartak.com/spiral-cutterhead/dewalt/spiral-cutterhead-for-dewalt-13inch-planer-dw-735
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e_LzXVichVA
ffwave
I seam to remember a tread a ways back discussing spiral heads for the DW735, but cant seem to find it. A few guys had the Sheartak & Shelix heads and were happy with them.
I'd wait until after the waranty expires before any tampering. I have a new set of straight knives installed at the factory, plus a spare set unopened. I will eventually get the spiral head. The job is less difficult than rebuilding a brush saw motor, so piece of cake.
I put sheartak heads in my 735 and in my old Delta 8" jointer. I'm very happy with them. They come from Canada. I put a byrd shelix in previous jointer and I don't see any difference in cut quality.
Some interior shots of the shop.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/11009/workshop2.jpg) (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=354481)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/11009/workshop1.jpg) (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=354480)
Have a ton of stuff and machines to move in. More shelves, a couple tool cabinets, bench to build. First, the old machines need a good cleaning, a project in itself. ffcheesy ffcheesy
SD what is the pallet looking divider for to the right of the stove in the first pic?
What type of collection do you guys use on your planer? I know I will need a hood type dust collection over the lathe, the Festol should handle that I think. But the planer wood chips needs some volume. Has a 2-1/2" shoot. Some type of cyclone into a lidded barrel?
Planers make a lot of chips fast. My shop is split upstairs and down with the bigger collector upstairs. Downstairs where I plane I have a smaller unit. it holds about 15 or 20 gallons and fills fast when I am running stock through. If it's a short hose run, you don't need a ton of suction, but the bigger container you can get, the better. When mine fills, I got no suction, chips recirculate and mess up the wood.
I am always looking for another for a spare (cheap used), especially since I had to repair the one on the mill yesterday.
Quote from: doc henderson on July 03, 2024, 09:10:52 AMSD what is the pallet looking divider for to the right of the stove in the first pic?
There is a second one like it toward the door. Firewood storage area. It's built solid. Should hold 2 - 16" wood ranks. This year the wood will be long, but my little electric chain saw will cut it up as needed. Kinda like Jeff's he was demoing out on his trail blazing video. I've used it lots around the furnace wood to snip off 4" now and again. They are pretty strong, I cut cedar fence post with it this spring.
I think I have the hood figured out for the lathe and sander, I have 4" hose and reducer from the Festool, good old duct tape might even come into play. Also a hood stand that I can move around. But yeah, wood chips built up fast. I do have a big old shop vac, that might do for now. I'm not going to be plaining large volumes, trim wood, and only need 90 board feet of maple for that bench. Just have to watch it, empty often.
Oh, the sight of a brand new shop with an uncluttered, super organized look to it.
Very, very nice SD!
I've got the DeWalt planer as well, it's been a great machine.
OGH Tom has it right, as usual. There's a lot of chips that come off a planer (and a jointer for that matter). You'll want to set up a good way to manage that stuff otherwise it'll drive you nuts in shovelling and sweeping.
Here's what I use:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/19307/20180802_173220.jpg) (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=254685)
I bought it used and similar to your wood stove, the ductwork/chimney costs about as much as the collector/stove itself.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/19307/Ductwork.jpg) (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=299183)
was trying to calculate the volume, but the plywood looks so similar, I cannot make out the H x W x L.
If 8 x 12 feet guessing 1.3 cord to the ceiling?
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/11009/workshop4.jpg) (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=354491)
One of the issues with the flue, was there was only 1-1/2" clearance from the ceiling and the stove pipe from the stove. There has to be at least 4". The pipe is double walled, but it gets hot, and heat goes up. The flue itself you could put your hands on and not burn. But it to has to be 2" from any rafter or joist. That can heat up in a flue fire. So that had to move toward the door about 1-1/2". The pipe and the flue is in a straight line to the outside, a nice whistle when a breeze passes over. I don't expect anything but soot. The pipe is sleeved, so it telescopes, easy to remove and clean. Secured my screws.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/11009/workshop3.jpg) (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=354492)
The OD is R16. It fits snug, we'll see how it hold in the heat this winter. The south end is easier to keep warm than a north end door. :thumbsup: I still have to insulate the casing of the entry door and trim.
Nice shop!
I built a small one 16x 28', insulated finished walls heated with in-floor HW from the house wood boiler, don't seem to use it much but handy when I do. Your clean shop pictures almost make me want to go clean mine. ffsmiley
Thanks a bunch. I'll be out there a lot in the winter, even if I just burn firewood, like I told my cousin. ffcheesy ffcheesy :thumbsup:
Doc., 1-1/2 cords ~190 cu feet, stacked 7 feet high. Will stack 1/2 cord in front, square stack the ends. Be plenty, won't need much, but I left ~2 cords out of the big pile. My old shop, I never burned more than a cord all winter. ffsmiley
I am really excite for you with the new shop. This is a game changer for you I hope. If I were building new, I would go with a heated slab and an OWB, much easier to maintain for the full season. With a woodstove you need to either burn all the time 24/7 or try to reheat the thermal mass in the building for work sessions. Better to just keep the heat going as much as you can to keep the building temp in the 50's or higher.
I use a remote thermometer probe in the shop that I can watch from inside at my desk and notice any irregularities. Since I work out there for full days most of the winter, I just try to keep it comfortable all the time and let it drop in the high 50's overnight. Also, my ceiling fan runs ALL the time, for almost 40 years straight now and that helps a lot to keep the building temps even. It doesn't run fast, it just mixes all the air and blows the hot air from the ceiling down to the floor. It just makes for more even heating of the building very cheaply. It's draws less than a half amp.
But it depends on what you want. You already know it takes a while to build a 'relationship' with a stove. It is even more to get used to a stove AND a new building. You just have to work at it.
I'm excited for you this is a huge adventure for you and you get to create a new world for yourself. Not a lot of folks get to do that. Enjoy the ride.
BTW, how often do you expect to open that garage door in the winter months?
Quote from: Old Greenhorn on July 03, 2024, 06:48:24 PMBTW, how often do you expect to open that garage door in the winter months?
Very little, if none. ffsmiley My experience in the past, is a good stove will keep a building warm 3 days without freezing water. Once the burn season starts, a shop stays dry all winter as in RH. Moisture was only trouble on surfaces in the warm seasons with high humidity. One can stick a dehumidifier with a hose out under the door or small AC in a window to keep that down. Both use as much juice on the electric bill. I'd say an AC probably is more efficient. :wink_2: No interest here in floor heat or boilers, a stove is most desirable for heat in my case.
Quote from: Andries on July 03, 2024, 11:28:22 AMI bought it used and similar to your wood stove, the ductwork/chimney costs about as much as the collector/stove itself.
Metal duct is the safest, like yours. No static build up to go poof. Otherwise you have to run grounded copper wire in and around the duct work.
Safety sheet attached.
03J-dust-collection-system-memo-0002.pdf
Moved my vice and grinder up this morning into the shop and mounted them. I put backer board under the vice up against 2x4", she'll never move if you want to bend a piece of iron. ffsmiley It's a good Record vice to, can't even buy one local anymore. But the grinder is nothing to brag about, just a Mastercraft, a hardware store brand. But I do put good wheels on it for sharpening and honing metal.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/11009/shop-vice-grinder.jpg) (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=354570)
new Rigid vac, got an extra hose to.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/11009/shop-rigid-vac.jpg) (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=354569)
I hauled up all the machine tools today, this morning actually. Pickup loads, and by dolly cart. I mean used the pick-up, not loaded floor to ceiling. I was wet clean through and about played out for sure, cause I had to pull up hill and after 6 weeks of doing nothing I haven't the best of stamina, plus lack of testosterone levels don't help none. Now the work begins, not for awhile, to clean them all up. Lots of work there in itself. The rust is only surface, not pitted.
Table saw with Incra attachments and side extensions over on the mobile table, bandsaw, table belt sander by the door, drill press, jointer in the middle
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/11009/old-shop-tools.jpg) (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=354584)
Lathe in pieces.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/11009/ols-shop-lathe.jpg) (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=354583)
That old iron is heavy. zzzz_smiley smiley_sweat_drop
Looking good man! You've got years to finish things up right, like trimming windows and doors etc. I don't see any kind of belt sander there, yet to come? Nature abhors a vacuum. But you have time. I try to rebuild a machine a year when I have a few backed up, but looks like yours just need a lick and a promise to get them up and going. I find on those surface rust tables is to spray them thick with WD40 and rub them with scotch brite. Works like a charm and it's pretty dang quick, especially on flat tables like on the saw and planer. One shop I had the building either sweated or breathed too much and I had to re-do tables and machines parts every year if I didn't spray them with wd40 every few weeks. But that scotch brite works great and it doesn't hurt the table. It will also clean off sap and wax buildup with the WD.
It will all get done, don't kill yourself. We need your knowledge here. ffcheesy
The sander is over in the corner, upper middle by the OH door. Behind the firewood studs. You can flip to table 0 to 90 degrees, it's up now. There is also a sanding disk on the side of it you can't see.
The old barn where the old shop is was terrible for moisture as it doesn't have good drainage. Damp in there in the warm seasons. The place is 75 years old. The roof construction was the best part of it.
If you apply a good coat of wax once a year you shouldn't have any rust issues and you don't get messy WD40 on your wood.
I think they discontinued the paste wax everyone used. There is a thread on it from last winter. Ain't the same as paste car wax. And probably not the same as MINWAX furniture paste wax. There is spray on stuff I have used from BOSTIKS.
I'm a fan of Boeshield T9 for my tool surfaces.
I have learned to not leave a piece of wood sitting on my tablesaw though............
Yeah the paste wax or equivalent, is the ay to go for keeping it clean and slick, but when you have that 'patina' on there, you need to get it off first. That's where the WD and scotch brite really shines (see what I did there?). Forgot to mention that you need to clean that off and wax it, but I figured everyone knew that. Oil on wood is a no go. That rust cleaning can be a PITA, but the method I use works really well and fast.
To clean up rust, spray the surface with WD40 or any light lubricant, even kerosene. Scrape the rust off using a razor blade. Wipe the crud off. Now cut a 4" square of Scotchbrite. Put a wire brush on a 4" right angle grinder and lay the Scotchbrite on the wire brush and polish the machine surface with the Scotchbrite. If you don't have a right angle grinder use a ROS and use a sandpaper to hold the Scotchbrite pad to the machine surface. It will only be a little slower than the right angle grinder.
I can probably clean heavy rust off a table saw faster than what it took to type this. The Scotchbrite will leave the surface in near new condition. It won't do much on stains, but that is part of a machines patina.
Congratulations on your new shop. Firewood in the shop can make humidity hard to control so it may require a dehumidifier when the stove isn't running to keep the steel shiny. A dust deputy on that new vacuum will be a much better solution then a cyclone lid. Just find a 30 gallon drum. For straight knife planers 4 inch hose will prevent clogs from stringing. For helical cutters smaller hoses will work. Can't wait to see your projects.
I think the MINWAX furniture wax should work fine on the machine surfaces, after all. The Johnson's I'm pretty sure has been taken off the market according to earlier posts this past winter. I have a can of the MINWAX, it's an old readily available brand up here.
The Festool should do the same as the dust deputy, all built into a vacuum. For a planer, you're dealing with chips, low dust. Chips pile up fast. Will figure it all out in time. ffsmiley
I found when I had the straight knife bellsaw I was dealing with noodles and after switching to inserts it became chips on both the joiner and planer. My dust deputy with a 55 gallon drum fills up real quick when planing.
Yep, the Festool is just going to be on sawdust duty, and also will hook the hood to it for around the belt sander. Lathe will be direct off shop vac with a hood. The planer will use the lid and shop vac, the jointer I'll likely use the hood underneath, it throws chips on the underside. Used to just set a pale under the stream, got most of it. It'll all get worked out. ffsmiley The planer I always used was small square chips (straight knives), not sure what will shoot out the Dewalt yet.
If I could offer one sugestion with your new shop before ya move everything in, it would be to paint your walls and ceiling with a lighter color paint. As the wood on yer walls and ceiling darkens it will really suck up da light. I painted the interior of my new shop and it's made a world of differance, especially on tired old eyes. ffsmiley
Can't paint over wood, sacrilege. ffcheesy There's a finish on now. Got lots of light with 6" pot lights at daylight setting. It would surprise you maybe how bright it is. They are LED, which are way better than CFL or incandescent light. No shadows. ffsmiley
I painted over drywall. ffcheesy ffcheesy ffcheesy My old shop was wood walls and ceiling, started out great, but over time it really started ta git dark in there. New shop got drywall so I wouldn't feel bad about painting it. Best move I made, that and adding a garage door like you did. :wink_2:
I remember those old CFL's in the old shop, which was only 8' wide. Hard lights to see by and shadows, like trying to see with candles. Walls all wood. LED was the best invention to come along in awhile. Sheet rock was fine in the house with some Benjamin Moore on them, really brightens the rooms. But I couldn't do that to my wood shop. Them old timers would roll in their graves, gotta keep them quiet. ffcheesy These LED's are nice and bright to see by.
I was shopping at Uline.ca for some small storage bins, wall mount and counter top stand alone, some for hardware and nuts/bolts/washers and some a bit bigger to fit sand paper in and other larger items. Can't stand stuff laying around loose. I love shopping at Uline. :D
I've stacked 9 buggy loads of firewood in the shop in the last two mornings, before 6:00 am. 3 more and it will be half done. Not pushing it too hard, but feel fine. Today my Uline shelves came so I put those up. I like them, they will be some handy for screws, nails and trinkets and sand paper trays. ffsmiley
I figured out the threading on my lathe for a new lock down handle. The ones that came with it are pathetic. It's a Delta, but cost reductions in manufacturing always bites the consumer who wants it well built, not compromised. Turns out it is 3/8 NC16 threading. I had one here that was 7/16", so I put the die on it to reduce it to 3/8. Fits like a glove. For awhile there I couldn't figure it out, the old one fit a 7/16, but had slop, so I knew it wasn't right, but thought maybe metric. Anyway, it's solved. :sunny: :thumbsup:
I'm after a lift table tomorrow, to scoot in under the machine stands, lift and move without dragging. A local hardware store has them in stock.
I got all the wood into the shop, the last 3 buggy loads had to go under the porch for the house, no room in the shop.
I got that lift table today, got to assemble it. Also have to make a 20 A 220 extension cord for the shop. Can't buy one ready made in the hardware store. No big deal, but kinda odd. I guess all the old farmers make their own, dad always did.
I think 12 g wire carries 20 amps if not too long, and I just get a nice cord ad change the ends. then at least the cord is flexible. Or buy by the foot. I have even bought a 100-foot cord and took 20 feet off each end and made a couple 110v cords and converted the middle to 220v.
Yup, I got the wire and the ends today and wired up a cord. Also tried it out on the table saw, works anyway. I used a little heavier than needed maybe, but it'll do the trick. I think it's 10 gauge.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/11009/20A-220-wiring.jpg) (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=354717)
Here's the wood all stacked.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/11009/shop-firewood-2024.jpg) (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=354720)
Here's my lift table to move the machines. 500 lb capacity. The handle at the bottom is a foot pump. The release is on the chrome handle, has a release cable.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/11009/lift-table2.jpg) (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=354715)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/11009/lift-table1.jpg) (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=354716)
The table saw is all stripped down. It has extensions, but also the Incra fence, rail and mitre system, so it's quite a huge saw when put together, ;)
The Uline shelving
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/11009/uline-shelves1.jpg) (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=354719)
There is a dust hood there to the right with an adjustable stand and with that 4" clear hose. Plugs into my Rigid Vac with a reducer.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/11009/uline-shelves2.jpg) (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=354718)
That axe handle, I carved that out 40 years ago with an axe and smoothed it up some. I made 2, the other is still in service on my old axe. Hard maple. I found it, well I never really lost it, but I got my hands on it , let's say, during the move to the new shop. ;)
Next job is to tackle the machine top rust. :thumbsup:
Looks good, that cart will be handy.
Lots to like!!!! :thumbsup:
Table saw all shined up, used Larry's suggestions. Works pretty quick. Instead of Scotchbrite I used a rust removal wheel on the grinder to polish after I took the rust off with WD40 and a paint scraper with razor blade. Like new top.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/11009/tablesaw-rust-removal.jpg) (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=354722)
Got the Incra rails and fence back on the table saw. Great system. Checked for square, bang on. I've had that system for 30 years. ffsmiley
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/11009/tablesaw-incra.jpg) (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=354723)
Good work SD.
When you have it all set up, it'll look like you went out and spent a million bucks on new equipment.
Got the jointer all shined up this morning, wax applied. Besides the lawn mowing and weed whacking this morning. ffcheesy
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/11009/jointer-rust-removal.jpg) (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=354732)
Looks great SD! I'm jealous of the space!
This morning I finished cleaning up the lathe, bandsaw, drill press and belt sander. I installed the lathe to the bench, with a 2 x 4" on the other side of the melamine to stiff'n it up, so it doesn't vibrate. I then placed the equipment where I want it to stand for the most part, for the duration. Once I get that extra rank of wood burnt, the equipment won't move. Right now I would have to roll the planer to one side when in use. Everything else will pretty much remain where it is. Room left for that carpenter bench build. ffsmiley
shop photos please
4 photos taken from each corner looking at its opposite corner
so corners 1,2,3,4
1 looking at 3
2 looking at 4
3 looking at 1
4 looking at 2
thank you
for the multi drawer parts cabinets
i put Lazy Susan wooden disks under the cabinets
most just have 2 cabinets, some have 4
Looks great. I started with those plastic bins but recently tossed them all because they are dust catchers. I think lids are available now to keep dust out.
Yes, you can get lids. A little dust is easy to contend with. I will have way less dust in this shop then in previous shop. I had no collection system down there. Everything had a 1/4" sawdust up on higher shelves. ffcheesy
Today I plan on putting the shims for the pine trim around my windows and door and spray the foam around. I might get a chance to pick up the pine today, need 10 pieces of 4" 8'ers for those and the attic hatch. ffsmiley
Only one piece you need to roll around a bit? Man! In my dreams!
I got the insulation and shims in early, then I went and got the pine and varnished one side and edges. Varnish the other this afternoon. Pine should be all ready to cut and install tomorrow morning. Good dry weather here today for varnishing, low humidity. ffsmiley
Pine trim around the windows and attic trap door is done. Not much contrast with the spruce, other than the spruce is knottier. ffwave
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/11009/shop-window-casings.jpg) (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=354801)
And door.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/11009/door-casing.jpg) (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=354800)
Had a bit of 1-1/4" wide pine left and used it for corner moulding along the ceiling and wall corners. I just but jointed them. Probably a 1" x 6" x 10' footer is needed to do the rest, I'll finish that up next spring after I burn some wood. ;)
Looks like my shop bandsaw wheels may need new rubber, they keep jumping the wheel grooves and want to ride off the wheels. I tried adjusting tracking, doesn't stop it. Probably stretched and warn. They are 25 years old by now. Last time the saw was used was 10 years ago and the rubber bands stayed put. I can get the universal rubber bands from busybee tools I think.
Any of you guys have this issue on your shop bandsaws?
I bought my first bandsaw from a CL ad for 50 bucks. It needed new tires and I was not prepared for the pain it was to put them on. For me I think it was more an issue of the blade tracking well enough (tires weren't sticky enough?), but that saw had a bunch of other issues too, namely pot metal or old, brittle cast iron that liked to fail. I had it work long enough that it helped in the shop soon but everything was a struggle with it and it whined about any work. Next, I got a hand me down Buffalo bandsaw from my step grandpa, and it was a little better but still a lower end saw with similar brittle metal issues, and poor blade guides, but the tires were good and the saw did a lot more work with better results than the previous one. A few weeks ago I went out and spent real money on a 14" Rikon and it's a beast and I love it. It was expensive for my hobbying needs but so much more enjoyable to use and I should be able to get a lifetime out of it, happily, I think.
Mine has always worked well. I have cut a ton of stuff. It looks to me they are stretched and old, need replaced. I have a set on order now. And I always use top of the line bands. Crappy cheap bands are a waste of time.
I put new tires on my old 14 inch delta and had to put them in very hot water to make them stretchable. Mine had squished spots from sitting with a tensioned blade. I went with polyurethane tires.
That's what these will be as well.
Yes, I found out that for urethane tires, you soak them in hot soapy water for 10 minutes to make them more pliable. Glad it worked for you. :thumbsup:
I tried boiling mine and don't know that it helped, for me. I think I ended up using some clamps, some screwdrivers, and a mess of cussing.
😁
Laughed when I saw the " 8'ers". Post #60.
That exactly how I write them on my cut lists too.
Good time to be insulating too Mr SD.
You'll be feeling like you're a pretty smart guy, come February. . or maybe by November?
Yup, this is the frozen north.
Well, I had to go digging in the loot to find my old shop machine manuals. I found them, as I knew they was never tossed out. Down in an old trunk for safe keeping. I brought them all up to the shop and they now reside in a 'banker's box' for safe keeping. I was looking online for some of the manuals. I found some, but no luck with Craftsman or Trademaster Tools. But I now have them all located, so all is good. :thumbsup: Surprised at how few Craftsman stuff is digitized and online, found mostly old stuff and USA model numbers. Could have the same machine up here in Canada, but they use different numbers. :wacky: Most of my stuff are antiques, but early 90's stuff. Don't toss your manuals gentlemen. :thumbsup:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/11009/machine-manuals.jpg) (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=354851)
The tires came yesterday for the bandsaw and indeed the instructions are to use hot 150F water on them before installation. I'm putting them on this weekend and we shall see how it goes. ffsmiley
From my experience the closer you can keep the tires in the hot water to the wheels, so they don't have time to cool down, the better. Good luck!
I put the bandsaw tires on this afternoon. Was quite easy, I wasn't more than a couple minutes per wheel. Tested the saw, all works as it should. :thumbsup: