I was thinking it would be nice to be able to make a chisel handle or a vice handle to fix the broken on on one of my wood vices. I have a lot of Ash and cherry straight grain handle material set aside and air dried just for that purpose. I was cruising marketplace for wood lathes. What size/HP would I need to make some handles? I see a variety of sizes and there are some pricey ones on there- $1000, $1800, $3900, as well as some in the $150-$300 range. Never tried turning, at least not on a wood lathe. When I was younger I did use a metal lathe a number of times, but I understand it's different deal.
You can make a wood handle on just about any lathe. I started on a 1954 Delta Homecraft lathe with 1/3 HP. I also made a handle for one of my tools and many bowls, vases and other items.
It really just depends on your own personal preferences and budget. Its best to start with the low end to see if you like it. There is the ol' learning curve. Then it becomes a vice.
You can also look up the local turning club to see if they have open house mentoring sessions. Then you don't have to invest at all and probably turn on a nicer lathe with someone who will show you how its done.
Just don't buy one of those pipe lathes. Get something with a real bed on it.
The lathe is just the start. You will also need a chisel. Choice of bowl gouge, spindle gouge, spindle roughing gouge, scrapper, carbide tools, or the dreaded skew. And remember each tool comes in 3 or 4 different sizes. Than we can talk about a drive center, live center, and chucks. Once we pick these things out how do we use them? And safety is a very important part of the learning process.
My suggestions are to take a course at a local craft school. They usually have course's from 3 days to a week long. Just as good would be to join a local woodturning club. At the first meeting introduce yourself and tell them you know nothing about turning so you need a mentor. Chances are somebody will invite you to there shop and give you an introduction to turning and it won't cost ya a thing, well maybe coffee would me nice.
I'm a member of the Stateline Woodturners (https://statelinewoodturners.com/) Club and also occasionally teach at the Eureka Springs School of the Arts (https://essa-art.org/). I really enjoy it as often the teacher learns more than the student and makes lots of new friends.
Short spindle turning does not place much of a burden on a lathe, so you don't need a high-end lathe to turn chisel handles. As Larry implies, put your money in good turning tools and way to sharpen them. And a drive and live center...
AND - stay safe: chips and dust (and sometimes spindles) fly all over the place.
I'd look for something like this, with enough length in case you want to turn a table leg. I know a lot of us like table projects. :thumbsup:
https://www.busybeetools.com/products/wood-lathe-with-digital-readout-csa-cx803?_pos=7&_sid=95e358acc&_ss=r
A nice starter set of turning tools
https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/sets/100714-economy-turning-tools-set-and-tool-roll
And some kind of sharpening system
https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/sharpening/power-systems/114796-turners-cbn-sharpening-set?item=03J7447
These are just some ideas to guide you down the path, not an endorsement.
If you main goal currently is small project you don't need anything with a huge bed or swing. There ae plenty of old, quality, 12"x36" lathes with 1 hp motors out there at a reasonable price point. If you were wanting to make large bowls then a 12" would not be the best option.
If you ever get close to Ohio I have spare variable speed Delta/Rockwell 12"x36" I would let go.
I've got the biggest lathe from Harbor Freight. I think it was about 300 bucks but not sure if it still is. As a beginner lathe it's fine but my biggest gripe is that the banjo (part that holds the tool rest) is garbage. Like most things HF it's not the highest quality and needs a little tuning to make it better but it's not unreasonable. I was in the same boat, trying to decide if I would actually use it. I do, then for a while it became some of a tool/accessory buying addiction. Now, I feel like I'm ready to step up to a higher quality lathe. I don't know that I'll go as long again. I'm not making spindles for anything (yet), mostly smaller pieces like bowls or whatever. The only issue now is that the step up in quality is substantially more expensive, and I don't have a couple grand to spend on it... When turning is not terrifying it can be pretty therapeutic and nice. Larry's list of parts is correct, plus sandpaper until you get as good as he is.
I LOVE my Powermatic 45!!! You can find them quite often in auctions and online. Well worth looking!
JH
Quote from: aigheadish on January 30, 2025, 03:16:02 PMThe only issue now is that the step up in quality is substantially more expensive, and I don't have a couple grand to spend on it...
A lot of schools had the old Delta/Rockwell or Powermatic lathes, they come up at auctions fairly regularly. Both of mine are old school lathes, and I paid less for them than you did for the HF model you have. I think I saw another pair sell locally in the last few weeks for under $400 each. If your OK with the 12" diameter limitation they are economical.
I don't have any local luck for finding used lathes I'm interested in. Granted, I don't look every day but when I do check I find giant metal lathes, that even my backhoe may not move, to the pipe lathes mentioned above, or like the convertible ones (I don't remember the brand) that "lathe" and do 4 other things.
If you are interested in selling one of yours let me know, though the Costa Rica teakwood Project has removed pretty much every penny from my wallet, for now. I'd have to do some research on yours though, I don't know that I know anything about them.
I have a small Riken lathe I bought at Woodcrafters.
I bought a couple of the carbide inert tools at the same time.
They don't give the quality of cut that a well sharpened toll will but its easy to turn the insert.
I am not very good at turning, but have made a couple small bowls and some spurtles.
If all you're making are some tool handles, a basic lathe would work fine. Rip a piece of thick stock square, cut the corners off into an octagon on the table saw, and then make it round on the lathe. And as said, various sandpaper will true it up smooth.
Machinebuilder- I recently saw a post somewhere about the Rikon model and heard it was decent. I've got a Rikon jointer and bandsaw that I'm pretty happy with, I need to look into the lathe as well... I don't know how small I'm willing to go but it certainly brings the expense down.
When I am looking for a piece of equipment I usually check craigs list and facebook marketplace frequently. In craigs list, you do a search on all categories for "lathe", "wood lathe", turning tools" at the start. When you get a results page, even though it may have no items you are interested in, you can save the search by simply clicking the bookmark icon and putting in a descriptive name. Then you can just use the bookmarks to execute your searches in the future.
I have several for logs, free logs, trees. You can zip right on through the searches every time you sit down at the computer. Eventually, something will pop up. Persistence.
I've bought 3 lathes off of craigslist. Each time the seller has had other items for sale like gouges, table saws, radial arm saws or jointers, etc.
I recommend buying a bandsaw to round off your bigger project pieces before putting on the lathe for more pleasant turning.
A lathe chuck is also a great accessory and probably comes with it if you ask. We're building a new place now and I'll have a room in it set up for turning.
I'll probably upgrade to a better unit when I come across it maybe even treat myself to something new. I've also been sharpening my tools with sand paper instead of a grinding wheel. Sometimes with 60 grit but mostly with 220 grit.
I see Lee Valley has a drill press table and fence. I might try one of those in the future. Although my press vise worked great drilling 750 holes this winter. The holes are all in a line in the pieces of wood, I just marked the centres and the wood will never move in the vise when drilling. The vise I have came with magnetic jaws with rubber on them so as not to mark up the wood. I think that even came from Lee Valley 25 years ago. ffcheesy My press head can move back and forth and rotate 360°, and swivel 90 degrees in degree increments. One of the best shop investments I made.
I have a chuck for the lathe as well, the chuck came from Lee Valley to. But honestly I just use the drill press. I have one of those inflatable sanding wands with a long tail that goes in the chuck. Slick apparatus for sanding curves and rounded surfaces. I've got another one for a Dremel that also has dust collection.
Inflatable sanding wands?
I used a green scotchbrighty sanding buff thing on the platter I turned last and it worked very well, while on the lathe, to reduce the show of my lack of turning skills. First time I'd used it and I was very pleased, other than it seems like it's kind of easy to melt the material.
Mooseherder- That's interesting about the sandpaper. Are you doing it on a block or is it belt driven? I have some diamond plates that go from maybe 400 to 2000 or something that I've sharpened chisels with but never my lathe tools... I don't think I'd be good with a bowl gouge sharpening, unless it's on a belt, then I'm probably starting my learning all over!
I usually just touch up the tool holding over the edge of the workbench and free hand. You can also glue sandpaper around any size dowel for easier holding. This is a parts box for knobs, handles, bird bodies and heads. One of the dowels has 60 grit sandpaper glued around it.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/13635/1000006536.jpg) (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=352834)
Do you think this looks like a good starter lathe? https://www.facebook.com/share/1FUnnEQ5Pz/
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Vintage Sprunger Bros L1036 Gap Bed Lathe in Very Good Condition
10" x 36" wood lathe, includes stand, light, 8 chisels, large power switch & Dayton motorNew 4" self-center lathe chuck & live tailstock center ($80 value)Built in Indiana in the 1975 of quality cast iron, original finish in great conditionMust pick up
That's a great value. It looks like it was well taken care of.
If I were in the market and more local to it, I would sure buy it. Looks like plug and play.
Looks good from here. :thumbsup: Everything is metal, so that's a real bonus.
Lathe itself looks good, old iron is probably better than the stuff they sell today. Should note the motor has step pulleys, probably means have to move the belt to change speeds. Also motor is held in place by pipe strapping, functional but maybe could be improved on.
I see that lathe is sold. For what you want to do almost any lathe similar to that one would work. Just make sure the bearings are good. I have seen a number of lathes in my area, that would work for you, go for $100 or so. It just depends on what you want to get into. If you want to get in cheap it is possible. Just be ready for when the bug hits - you will want to upgrade. If you want to turn bowls or larger projects you will want a heavier duty lathe, much heavier for good size bowls. Turning spindles less than 2" diameter is easy on the lathe so a lot of older lathes should work fine.
That would have been a great starter lathe. You see something like that, with all the extras you need as well you gotta jump on it.
Yeah, I went to contact them and it just changed to sold. I screwed up. I think that was probably a smokin deal with everything. Well I may not find a package like that again, but I know what to look for. Thanks. Well, What heads should you have with it? There's the head that looks like a brad point bit(what's that called)? Then I guess there's a plate type head?
A lot of lathes will turn outboard to, so instead of a 12" bowl, you can turn a 16" one. I don't think I would want to try anything bigger than 12" on mine anyway. Mine's just a low end Delta starter type lathe, nothing fancy, but it gets the job done. I like making tool handles, pulls, runners, ferrules, large dowels, legs, posts and so on. I'll make a bowl once in awhile, but it's not my thing. I look at them as dust collectors. ffcheesy
There is the lathe drive center w/ the point and four biting teeth, the face plate, the chuck(thread specific), the longworth chuck, jam chucks(usually homemade), vacuum chuck.
On the tailstock end is the live center(spins with the work pieces), drill chuck, reverse work chucking alignment adapter. All of these things should be Morse Taper 2, MT2 for short. The taper is the fit into the tailstock. Its a precise, machined press fit that releases easily.
You need at a minimum, the drive center, face plate, a chuck and a live center. Most lathes usually come with these items. Also good to have is a knock-out rod to remove the drive center from the head stock. But you can use any rod or dowel to do the job.
Well, I'm not thinking anymore. Marketplace is dangerous with my money. Spent $650. Grizzly 1/2 HP, with a faceplate, and a chuck, but not like a drill chuck. Looks like the starting diameter for the chuck(on the machine) might be 2-3"? The tail stock is tapered and has a drill chuck, a live center , and one with 4 teeth kinda like a forstner bit but with 4 teeth. What do you use that one for??
It also has a device on it that the 87 year old guy told me was for copying an exising piece. You can see where you mount the piece to be copied. He had never used it like that though and didn't know how to. He attached a two way vise to hold cutting tools so he could use the hand wheel to move it back and forth and the
vice to move it in and out. There is an attachement that came with it pictured that looks like it only goes in and out(and that's what he told me and why he added the two way vise. Just what I needed, another vice! I'm going to wait til it's warmer to mess with it.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/16191/IMG_1626.jpeg) (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=357874)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/16191/IMG_1628.jpeg) (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=357873)
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Hey, a pretty good start! Looks like you got some gouges and chisels too. Now you need a sharpening setup. I recommend the Oneway Wolverine and a CBN wheel, 120 grit.
The piece with the four teeth is a drive center. That goes in your headstock. It bites into the wood and spins it. Did you get a knockout rod with it? You slide it through the headstock and knock the drive center out.
One thing you need to be sure of is the thread size on your headstock. It is probably 1" x 8tpi which is a popular size. Your chucks need to have this thread size or you can buy adapters. You can usually buy other jaws for your chuck to make it hold bigger things or hollow forms. You can hold things by a tenon or by an angled recess. They make different jaws for each of them. Your chuck appears to be a grizzly G8784(1" x 8tpi) which is 2 - 2 3/4" OD.
The two way vise is called a cross-slide. Usually used in machining work, it has its applications. I have put a cross-slide on my wood lathe, squared it to the headstock and using a metal cutting bit and tower cut across the bottom of bowls making them perfectly flat.
The other device that you have is called a copy attachment. It is for duplicating table legs and spindles. Grizzly 2891. Here is a link to the manual. https://cdn0.grizzly.com/manuals/g2891_m.pdf (https://cdn0.grizzly.com/manuals/g2891_m.pdf)
You should look up a turning club in the area. You will find many old men who know everything you want to know, identify wood for you, teach you to sharpen the chisels properly and other fun things. They are also a great source for tools. My turning club also has a supply store where you can buy special sandpaper, CA - crazy glue and other things. Look up Starbond glue on the net.
Time to feed the monster! Feel free to message me if you have further questions.
Looks like a great deal to me. :thumbsup: Another method I use for duplicating table legs is making a template from cardboard or a thin board, trace the profile onto the squared stock on two faces, 90 degrees to one another. Nearly free and you can get really good at duplicating legs. I have seen this done in old shops around here years ago. The walls would have templates hanging on them.
Nice Brad!
For what it's worth I hate the drive center with the four teeth. I've hammered them pretty firmly into wood that I've turned and a few times had them come loose, which is maddening. I tend to turn bowls or platters and that may be some of the issue but I've found much better luck with the face plates screwed into my piece. Some folks glue a sacrificial bottom for the face plate. I haven't done that yet but I see the appeal.
Beware, if you turn bowls, if you are anything like me, you'll mount it backwards from what you actually want a bunch of times before it sinks in to do it properly. Meaning I tended (and just did with my most recent bowl attempt) to attach my faceplate to the bottom of the piece when it should have been into the part that gets hollowed out, then after getting the chunk of wood round and a tenon (or angled recess, as RR put it) you take the piece off, add the jaw chuck and then start on the inside of the bowl, where you no longer need the tail stock.
It's taken me several tried to get the correct shape for the jaw chuck too and it has inside and outside grabbing ability. Everytime I use that method I have to really pay attention to what I'm doing to get the correct shape and depth for the jaws to grab effectively. There are some good youtube videos that explain it pretty well and even though it's a simple concept there are ways to make it much more secure. I did have a catch recently that knocked my piece out of square in the jaws. It was a lesson to really crank it on there (and take lighter cuts).
You jaw chuck looks to only hold on a tenon though, now that I look a bit closer. I'm not seeing the angle on the outside of the jaws that bite into an angled recess.
You can also buy different sized and shaped tool rests, the one on your machine looks pretty wide.
Are you still in Joliet? If so you should check out your local Woodturning Club. The national group (AAW) can be found at www.woodturner.org
Good luck. One word of caution - you have fallen into a rabbit hole that can become very cost. Ask me how I know. ffcheesy
Thanks, but it's not my first Rabbit Hole!
Quote from: Brad_bb on March 07, 2025, 08:20:16 PMThanks, but it's not my first Rabbit Hole!
Love that. The voice of experience talking there! Many of us have been there, not many admit it when we are falling into the hole....again. ffcheesy We all know it, but we won't admit it. :wink_2: