Friends of mine own a bar and have a large metal table frame with some old boards still on it, which I want to replace with a slab. I have an mostly walnut logs I am milling and was wondering if those would hold up outside well? Thinking a coat of outdoor epoxy to cover the top. I do have 2 white oak logs that I could also cut a couple slabs from to use also.
Mostly doing it as a barter for bar tabs :) Does anyone have any advice of doing outdoor tables?
Thanks ,
Tim
All I can attest to is that walnut logs salvaged from the forest floor are as solid as green after many years being down.
I hope that the epoxy would preserve the wood doesn't matter what type of wood. I would thin you have you have to coat all the edges.
I have 2 large Pine crotches that I am going to join together to make an outdoor patio table this summer. I am also wondering what is the best to coat them with.
You must top coat the epoxy to protect it from the sun. Look to the marine industry top coats like Awlwood, Awlgrip, Awlcraft, Epiphanes spar varnishes( especially the 2 parts) finishes and the automotive industry ( Imron ). The water based stuff that is rated exterior is mostly crap. WOC
I assume you intend to dry the slabs once milled prior to finishing, correct?
they may not rot but may lose some color.
For outdoors my first choice would be cedar for bug resistance. If you kiln dry it, you only need to get to 12-15% for outdoors.
Quote from: jpassardi on April 10, 2025, 08:55:07 AMI assume you intend to dry the slabs once milled prior to finishing, correct?
No, these are going to stay outside so I don't think that is needed. In MD kiln drying would be close to $80 @40 bf in a slab.
If you are not going to KD then your only choice is an outdoor uv rated oil. No epoxy.
Yes, you need to get to whatever the end EMC will be before epoxy or the wood will shrink and the epoxy will not.
I think you'll regret not kiln drying the slabs. You're going to be putting a lot of work into this project. Quality epoxies are going to cost way more than $80.00. Remember that in the kiln you are able to remove the bound moisture, and this is a big help in keeping slabs stable. Then the only movement you have to worry about is from the free moisture. You will also be getting it sterilized. This will be another level of comfort for you and the owners of where you're putting the table.
Quote from: tule peak timber on April 09, 2025, 08:10:35 PMYou must top coat the epoxy to protect it from the sun. Look to the marine industry top coats like Awlwood, Awlgrip, Awlcraft, Epiphanes spar varnishes( especially the 2 parts) finishes and the automotive industry ( Imron ). The water based stuff that is rated exterior is mostly crap. WOC
Ditto this. I had a project for my saltwater aquarium that I used West Systems 2-part marine epoxy on it to protect and preserve the wood. That stuff dulled drill bits...
@tule peak timber can you throw some quality uv protected oil finish names around?
Messmers UV Plus is legal to use here in Ca. and works well. Online, go to World of Stains Utah and you will find a selection of fine oil based products that work well. Plenty of options legal in most of the country VOC wise. Finishing here is really tuff with all of the restrictions and requirements to show chain of custody to a customer on larger jobs. Then there is plain old tung oil that has no additives and has worked on Chinese boats for centuries. I have tung on my exterior doors and it has held up for years. A soft scrub with soap and water every few years, reapply and keep on trucking. Japan dryer with pure tung oil is my friend.... :thumbsup:
Really appreciate all of the replies, good information.
My idea was to produce the bar top cheaply, since it will live outside in the weather year round. I have some walnut slabs I milled last fall and some Ash slabs from years ago that are at 14% (cut in 2014). If I coat the air dried Ash slab with epoxy, how well do you think the epoxy would hold?
My goal is a functional outdoor table top that would last 2 or 3 years before it would need any touch up. It's a German style beer hall so it will take a bit of abuse I am sure. Great place if you are near Baltimore.
I don't think air dried ash & epoxy will hold up very well.
If wanted to use air dried I would use a closed grain wood with an oil finish.
Quote from: tule peak timber on April 11, 2025, 08:59:23 AMThen there is plain old tung oil that has no additives and has worked on Chinese boats for centuries. I have tung on my exterior doors and it has held up for years. A soft scrub with soap and water every few years, reapply and keep on trucking. Japan dryer with pure tung oil is my friend.... :thumbsup:
I've been tweaking tung oil by adding wax. Latest try was adding pure carnauba wax flakes. Added enough to the tung oil that it was almost creamy in viscosity. I'm only using it on inside work at present but wondering if the mix would be an improvement over straight tung oil in a outside environment.
Have you looked at titanium dioxide nano particles as an additive? I'm also trying to find a company like 303 Aerospace but with a solvent based UV protectant that could be played with as an additive to home brew coatings. I'd love to pick the brain of a chemist at AkzoNoble to find out what they use as the UV component in their clear coats, but they probably keep that guy well locked up ffcheesy