I always thought that when sharpening you wanted to just kiss the front of the tooth then the gullet then the back. However, I was watching a You Tube video that said to touch the back first. Am I doing it wrong or is the video?
I don't really understand...if you're doing a full profile grind, you're hitting all of those areas. Tooth face, gullet and back of tooth.
Watch out for those youtubers!!! :wink_2:
I watch a lot of 3pt winch ones. Seem like most put the chain about 4-5 feet back on the log. :uhoh:
Quote from: barbender on April 14, 2025, 08:12:18 PMI don't really understand...if you're doing a full profile grind, you're hitting all of those areas. Tooth face, gullet and back of tooth.
Is there anything other that a full profile grind? I am fairly new to sharpening and as with everything I want to be sure I do it right.
Face-Gullet-Back of Tooth
Quote from: kkcomp on April 14, 2025, 08:25:36 PMQuote from: barbender on April 14, 2025, 08:12:18 PMI don't really understand...if you're doing a full profile grind, you're hitting all of those areas. Tooth face, gullet and back of tooth.
Is there anything other that a full profile grind? I am fairly new to sharpening and as with everything I want to be sure I do it right.
What type of grinder do you have? Drag or plunge? A plunge grinder will grind the full profile at one time; a drag grinder will grind the face and as it indexes to the next tooth the wheel will drag across the gullet and the back of the tooth.
No. If you want to maintain the profile of the blade, you have to take equal amounts off everywhere. I'm not familiar with the video you're referencing.
I only have one cam for my Cooks sharpener, for the WM 7/39 Turbo. I've had people ask me to sharpen 10° blades, which have a much shallower gullet. To achieve this with my cam, I make a round doing the light "kiss" on the tooth face, down to the base of the tooth. And that is all, all the way around. Then, I adjust it so it hits the back of the tooth for another round. I'm not doing this because it's the best way, but only as a compromise- it's the only way my machine can sharpen these blades as it's configured. I'm not buying a near $200 cam for the $100 of custom sharpening I do each year😊
The blades cut well, the customers were happy. But, I am not maintaining the whole profile, and that means the tooth would get shorter every time I sharpen them.
Excuse the dumb question, but why touch the back of the tooth?
(I've never sharpened a saw band)
The tip of the tooth needs to be pointed sharply. It's really the business part of the cutting. In use the tip wears down and gets ever so slightly rounded or if used too long the tip gets noticeably rounded
Touching the face and the back of the tooth restores that sharp point.
As the guys sat, the entire band profile needs to be ground. The face and back to sharpen the tooth flat and chisel corners and then the gullet to remove gullet fractures.
According to Cook's Saw Mfg. owner both sides oftip need grinding to keep all teeth at the same height so they all do equal work.
Quote from: Big_eddy on April 15, 2025, 01:22:19 PMExcuse the dumb question, but why touch the back of the tooth?
(I've never sharpened a saw band)
The easiest way to explain it. Do you sharpen just one side of your pocket knife?