I am commissioning a new Woodland HM126. Problems with setting blade torque.
Instructions directly from the "lady in Tech Help" were to turn the handle with two fingers until "snug"-- then add 2 1/2 turns.
I did so and the blade popped off the idler pulley. But not in a "nice" position; it is NOW behind the pulley and captured between the back pulley face and the sheet metal blade shroud.
So, besides having to somehow remove this blade(trashed now, I'm sure) I am still left with the problem of not being sure how to torque the blade on a brand new machine. They are standing by their protocol of 2 1/2 to 3 turns and will NOT provide a torque range. Pretty amazing.
I found other sources indicating 25 to 30 ft-lb is where to set it.
Wondering if any Woodland Mills owners are here and can provide better instructions than:
"snug and add 2 1/2 turns" !!
and yes, aware of their "video" . . .
thanks.
I have a mill that I just guess at.
I feel the blade torque is not a big deal.
I must be doing it right. I've had this mill for 20 years and all is good.
BUT I turn the band wheels by hand and adjust the wandering of the blade first.
I have no idea how yours is set up.
When I get it to stays on the wheel then I know I am all set.
I make sure the blade is tight and then I adjust the wandering.
I've had a Woodland Mills 126 for around 4 years. I had a little trouble when I first started using it with the blade coming off. Looking back I think it was from using to much blade lube. Now I don't use any unless I'm cutting sappy pine and even then I don't use a lot. As far as tightening band I tighten it until washer on tensioner is flush with tensioner housing. That's the way my manual said to do it. I think I had to adjust tracking also when I first got it. Manual explained process. Once I got it sorted out I haven't had to do anything to it. I've cut a lot of lumber with it and have no complaints.
Quote from: thecfarm on June 11, 2025, 05:49:41 PMI have a mill that I just guess at.
thanks, since it's a new mill and they specific instructions, trying to "do it right". . . But, I understand you are just sawing it is not a big deal, and "get that."
Quote from: Wlmedley on June 11, 2025, 06:40:27 PMI've had a Woodland Mills 126 for around 4 years. I've cut a lot of lumber with it and have no complaints.
thanks, there new instructions say to run it in about 3 turns. . . wondering do your instructions actually provide a torque in the manual or is it # of turns on the handle?
OR, really just so the thrust bearing is flush?!
I've always just adjusted it until the thrust washer is flush and when changing the blade I rotate the wheels by hand after tightening and make sure the blade is tracking properly. Just be careful when doing that because if blade isn't tracking properly it could jump off and possibly give you a bad cut. I'm also still using the original belt although I've had to tighten it a couple times. Back of my belt is getting pretty rough and I probably need to change it before long. Just wandering if a new smooth belt may be more likely to throw a blade. When belt wears down to where band contacts drive pulley it has to be replaced.Also band tracking changes according to band tension .
My manual has three methods listed: Torque Setting, Count Turns Method and Flush Bearing Method.
My first time using the saw I did have the blade pop off the drive wheels. This was caused by too much lube(also probably too slippery a mix). The manual said to have it set for a steady stream. In an email from one of the tech support staff, it said it should be a drip.
I found the lube valve on my tank would not hold the setting that I wanted. I now have an adjustable clamp to pinch the flow in the tube just above the discharge nozzle. Since I dialed the lube back, I have not had issues with the blade popping off on its own.
As for the adjustment methods, I have done all of them. The manual states that you should do either of the first two methods, and then make an adjustment to the tensioning mechanism so that the third method works all the time.
I have torqued the tension to 20-25 ft. lbs. and the bearing was proud of the tube end by a good margin. Using the count turns method, I tightened the handle 2 1/2 turns and it was way tighter than the tension of the torque method and just a bit proud of the tube end.
The manual states that once you know this setting and observe if the bearing is flush or not, you remove one or more of the belleville shim washers to make the bearing appear flush with the tube end when you use either tensioning method. Thus, one you make this adjustment, all you have to do is run it in until the bearing is flush with the tube end.
In practice, I run it in until I feel tension and then try to go three turns or until it is *DanG snug.
Is it.normal to have to adjust tracking and blade tension every time on a Woodland mills saw? That seems really odd to me. On my saw tracking does not change with blade tension. It would be a real pain to have to adjust both every time I change a blade.
Not needed. You should be able to just put on a new blade, tension it and resume sawing.
I use a toque wrench, 21 lbs
With it being a new mill you will likely have to set the blade tracking on the bandwheels. I just went through this process and the manual should explain the steps. There are a few points worth highlighting:
Make sure the blade guides are fully back and out of the way from the blade when adjusting the tracking.
Check the tracking with the blade fully tensioned and turning the bandwheels by hand a few turns.
Adjust the tracking with the blade un-tensioned.
Make small adjustments on one wheel at a time, alternating wheels until it's tracking correctly.
I may have made a confusing statement. After getting my tracking set correctly when my mill was new I have never had to readjust tracking. When changing blades I rotate by hand just to make sure blade is tracking okay and it always is. I never have trouble with blade coming off and I tighten until bearing is flush. I did remove tightening handle and put some grease in Belleville washer area when machine was new as threads were pretty dry and this could effect the torque.
I have never had to adjust the tracking on my mill either. I put the new blade on, give a few spins to make sure its tracking properly and off I go.