Is anyone using a cable/winch Log Loader? if so can ya post some pics? :)
You talking about loading logs on a trailer for transport? I have two different systems for doing that. One is the "DanG Deadheader Log Loadin' Deevice". There's pics of that somewhere on the forum already. I'm also using the "parbuckling" method, which I don't have any pics of right now.
Here's a link to a thread about my loader.
https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?topic=6803.20
Thanks Dan. I always learn from you. im wondering if anyone is using a winch log loader on their mill. I can see some advantage to a cable over a hydrolic lift, like pulling the log from a distance.
i have rigged up a setup this past week, I hope it works. I sorta swiped the idea from some pictures I saw on here a while back.
http://albums.photo.epson.com/j/ViewPhoto?u=4231442&a=31390449&p=69330781
I got some 2" reciever tubes, and some 2" tubing and welded up some booms, I made 2, one for smaller logs, and one for bigger logs, and am planning on putting a 1200lb hand winch on both of them. going to use them to load and to flip cants.
after I get it all together, i'll post some pictures.
Thanks Dan, Thats what I'm hoping , to use it as a loader slash turner
I don't know how you are set up, but I have seen something like Dan has only it was electric (12v). A long winch cable was taken around the log and hooked back to the mill, the guy had ramps and just rolled it right up the ramps. He didn't hook it and drag it, he went under it and it rolled as the cable went in. The arm was back away from the track and could swing out of the way (he just pulled a pin, it was made of pipe) . When he wanted to use it for a turner he just swung it over the deck,and stuck a pin in the mast, hitched the log low and over she flipped.
Twostroke, my Lt40 manual uses a parbuckling method to load the logs, and the claw log turner is operated by the winch as well. I don't have the turner anymore so I can't post any pics, but it is a factory option so maybe somebody could find a pic if your interested. I have always just used a cant hook to roll the logs and cants. Guess I'm a glutton for punishment. ;D
i got mine "finalized" this afternoon on my shorter boom. it worked good, loaded up a 9' pine log, about 15" in diameter or so, parbuckled it up my ramps, then we played around with the hook from an old cant hook, and rolled the log right on over. One thing we did notice is with my shorter boom, the winch handle can get in the way to flip a cant.
my saw is still at a friend's house, he snapped a few pictures for me, i'll post them up when he sends them to me.
a mod i see happening is getting rid of the crank handle, and welding the nut into place, then I can just use a cordless drill to power the winch. that'll speed things way up....
My son and I use two peavy's, and it works well for most stuff. We've been cutting 20' stuff 24" in dia, that kind of stuff is a bear to handle. I can tell ya one thing, two cant hooks are 10 times better than one. Figure that one out :D
I have the regular Norwood turner-loader on my mill. It works very well,had to beef it up some,kept bending at the joint on big ,over 20 in logs. Yep,the handel does get in the way sometimes.I need a better hook,the little Norwood hook keeps bending,matbe the next time I go to the welding shop
I have the standard Wood-Mizer manual loader. A pair of ramps (about 30 degree slope), and a 2-speed manual winch mounted near the hitch. Cable runs from the winch, under the bed, goes through a pully that turns it 90 degrees, and passes out the side of the mill. Over the top of the log, back under the log, and up to the mill.
The ramps have cleats on the top about every 8", and these keep the log from sliding if you don't get the cable exactly at the balance point. I find that on medium sized logs it's pretty easy for the log to "tilt" and it can be a real pain to keep it straight. I'm experimenting with an alteration to fix this, and I'll post pictures if it works.
I've heard of one LT40 owner who mounted an electric winch in place of the manual winch. He had a long cable to the controller so he could operate the winch while standing beside the log to keep it level on the ramps. Personally I wouldn't want to be standing below the log when it was part way up the ramp.
There's a trick to keeping the log straight. Use a separate cable to pass under the log. Fasten the ends of the second cable to the mill or trailer and pass the middle under the log. The ends should be spread apart almost the length of the log. Hook the winch cable to the center point of that cable. The further up the ramp the log gets, the wider, and more stable, the v-shaped cable gets. Work's great.
In case anybody's interested, I was in Walmart the other day and noticed some boat trailer winches. They were 12v with alleged 2000# pull. Made in China, of course. Price, $52.95! :o Couldn't be much of a winch, but I may try one anyway for that price. Would be handy to use experimenting with some of these ideas we keep getting.
Quote from: DanG on August 01, 2005, 01:12:52 AM
There's a trick to keeping the log straight. Use a separate cable to pass under the log. Fasten the ends of the second cable to the mill or trailer and pass the middle under the log. The ends should be spread apart almost the length of the log. Hook the winch cable to the center point of that cable. The further up the ramp the log gets, the wider, and more stable, the v-shaped cable gets. Work's great.
That's exactly the alteration I'm experimenting with, DanG. I just couldn't figure out how to describe it without a picture ;). The only problem I've got is that the best places to attach the second cable aren't in the right places, so to speak :(. Should have that sorted out by the end of the week.
You can put places in places you didn't know you had. ;D ;D ;)
DanG been there and done that with the el cheapo winch. Was a waste of money and time. :(
Brucer, trying to figure out how to keep the double cable long enough to do any good yet short enough to keep from having to move the factory snatchblock? That's why I gave up anyway. I just stop winching and go to the low end and straighten it up. I don't get down hill of it though. ;D ;D
here's what I made up:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/12217/IMG_2752.JPG)
and
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/12217/IMG_2754.JPG)
never mind my dumb expression, I guess I was super happy to not have to risk loss of life or limb loading the logs now :)
Looks good dan, but how does the head pass by it? is it removable while cutting?
I got some reciever tubes and welded them to the bottom of my frame, the boom is made of 2x2x3/16 tubing. it slides in and out.
next up, getting my clamps and backstops to work right, right now, they don't really "assist" in giving me square cants, which is super annoying.
Dan,
Where did you find those reciever tubes?
Been looking all over the place and nobody has any to sell.
northern tool
Note:Please read the Forestry Forum's postion on this company has them, but I ordered these from etrailerpart.com. Buyers makes them, but I don't think the ones I got are name brand. I found these guys because I want to use 1 1/4 reciever tubes and tubing to redo my clamp setup.
Quote from: DanG on August 01, 2005, 02:42:55 AM
You can put places in places you didn't know you had. ;D ;D ;)
Yeah. In this case the best places are a coupla inches above and in front of two crossmembers. I'm kinda reluctant to weld on the mill, so I'm going to make a clamp-on mounting. (And that way there's no evidence left behind if it doesn't work :D)
Quote from: Rockn H on August 01, 2005, 01:12:24 PM
Brucer, trying to figure out how to keep the double cable long enough to do any good yet short enough to keep from having to move the factory snatchblock?
That
did take a bit of figuring. First time I tried it, the log was half way up the ramps before one end decided to go back down. The hook on the main cable just slipped along the yoke and let the log do what it wanted to do >:(. This left me worse off because I now had a cable firmly holding the high end up there.
Second time around I made a loop in the yoke and put the hook through that. I worked OK, but I'd figured the length wrong and didn't quite get the log up on the deck :(.
It finally occurred to me that it doesn't matter too much that the yoke isn't helping when the log is at the bottom of the ramp. I can brace my Peavy on the ground and pry the log straight. It's when the log gets well up the ramp that I need the yoke, and that's just where it starts to do its job.
Lifting the low end isn't an option for me with some of the logs I have to deal with. Not unless I get a crane to do the lifting ;D.
Dan, that's a nice setup. I imagine it's a bit quicker to switch it into a log turner than the WoodMizer arrangement.