This post kind of goes along with woodbeard, s post on Lt 40 hyd virises non hyd . I have a 2002 LT 40 that I wish had Hyd has any one converted one of the manuals to hyd . and what are the pit falls . Is it better to buy parts from woodmizer or make them your self ? Or just sell the mill and buy a new one.
Thanks
Bill smiley_swinging_board
I'd sell and buy new.... or sell and buy used. It's hard to make a retrofit that works as well as one designed specifically for the hydraulics.
I know of an LT40 less than 15 miles from my house that has 1 (not a typo ... ONE) hour on it. It has "all the options" according to the fella, who has to sell it for health reasons. Seems to be a not-so-rare occurence with sawmills.
Anyway, I'm gonna get by and look at it hopefully by monday and take pictures ... not that I can post them haha.
He's already said he wants "around 22 - 23K" for it. Says he paid 27K for it. I haven't been to the WM site to see if that jibes with what they cost with all the options or not, but he doesn't want to sell it I can tell. His wife does. I heard her in the background "Tell the man to come look at it." I found out about it through a jeweler friend who mentioned that one of his customers had a sawmill that he'd just bought then within a week or so had a stroke or heart attack (can't remeber which now).
I'd LOVE to have it obviously but I can't part with that much money at this point of everything I'm doing. My wife wants it as much as me so that makes it even harder for me to be responsible, but we have a house to build that we are paying for as we go.
Anyway, I thought about trying to sell it on consignment if I could get him to drop his price a couple thousand, but if any FF members want it for themselves and not resell it for a profit (cause that's what I'd do if no one wants it), I'd be glad to put you in touch with the man directly and email you pics.
Oh lord, provide a way for us to afford this mill. Amen.
You better hurry if you want it ...... the Lord almost always answers my prayers one way or the other - and that be the truth! 8)
KJ
Bill,
If you are mainly interested in hydraulic loading, WM now sells a bolt-on hydraulic loader package for the LT-40 manual mill.
Retrofitting the manual mill for hydraulic side stops, turner, and toeboards shouldn't be that hard to do. Purchasing components from WM will definitely make it easier. If I were doing it today, I'd probably fabricate the parts for the side stops and turner myself (I've got a couple of hydraulic mills nearby that I can measure from). I'd buy the toeboard components from WM, plus the bolt-on loader.
Adding a hydraulic clamp is tricky, and this is the one item that might swing me toward selling the manual mill and buying a hydraulic one.
Bill,
I converted my manual WMlt40 to hydraulic about 10 years ago and it's still going strong. I bought my turner and clamp from WM and welded it on myself. Taper with cylinders came from Cooks. Other cylinders, I bought from Baileys. Got my pump unit with resivour from Northern. Lines were local and I also got the stack valves locally. Side supports were used. Do not have a loader. I will try to get pics soon. It is very easy. I knew nothing about hydraulics when I decided to put them on but I did take my time and asked a lot of questions.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/12431/manualtohydraulic%20003ff11%25.JPG)
5, regular cheap stack valves banked together. Ford solonoid on "northern" pump, starter switch taped to 1st leaver. L to R: clamp, side supports, turner, close taper, far taper. All mounted onto 90 degree bent plate. Cut hole in beam to route lines.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/12431/manualtohydraulic%20005ff11%25.JPG)
L to R: turner, manual clamp, hyd clamp.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/12431/manualtohydraulic%20012ff12%25.JPG)
L to R: homemade hold down spikes at end of clamp, manual clamp stays in place, turner is welded on.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/12431/manualtohydraulic%20007ff13%25.JPG)
homemade alternator mount. Needed at least 60 amps to run new hydraulics, 80a would be better.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/12431/manualtohydraulic%20008ff11%25.JPG)
non standard motor mount. needed 25hp Kohler on 88 mill.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/12431/manualtohydraulic%20009ff12%25.JPG)
Homemade seat
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/12431/manualtohydraulic%20010ff12%25.JPG)
Taking up slack in chain when adjustment has ran out. No more cutting off little pieces of chain every few months.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/12431/manualtohydraulic%20014ff12%25.JPG)
Homemade spring loaded ground contact. It's in open view and can be cleaned in about 10 seconds.
Great pictures and information . I am going to call Wood-Mizer and see what comes with there loader kit I may be able to use it for the pump and change the controls . Woodbowl when you said you got your taper from Cooks , I don't know what a taper is . thanks for every ones input . Please keep it comeing .
Bill
Bill,
I live about 30 miles from Cooks saw. (Acutrack) They have parts for the mills they make. I just bought a couple of tapers, Toe boards, log leveling units from them, welded them on and hooked up the lines. You can get them from WM or anybody. They raise and lower the ends of log to help in positioning for a higher yeild cut.
Woodbowl , Thanks I just was not thinking right when you said tapers , but I understand now .
You have been very helpful , and I think I will try doing the conversion . I will share pictures as it progreses .
Thanks for everyones help .
Bill
Be sure to send in plenty of "in progress" pics. Someone out there may have a good idea just waiting to happen.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/12431/zo%20sawing%20big%20cypress%20013.JPG)
Oh...........here's one more. I got tired of stomping through the sawdust on every cut. It's kinda' like the sand at Ft. Jackson. So I made a cut at the outlet and bent up the tab. It now throws the sawdust 20' away from the mill.
Just received a Hydraulic Loading arm kit from Woodmizer for my LT40 manual. Hope to install it tomorrow . I have been looking at the manual and it looks like it will keep me busy all day. Hope to have a report on how it works.
Bill, what did that loading arm kit cost? What all was included?
One thing to consider when attempting to convert a manual mill to hydraulic using the Wood-Mizer parts or as a pattern to make parts is that there is more to the system then pump, valve, hose, cylinder. They have flow control valves, sequence valves, and check valves in the system.
The sequence valves are used on the turner and back support line so it is controlled by one valve. First, the back supports come up to full height and then the log turner comes up. Just the reverse on the down stroke.
There are check valves or fuses on the loading arm cylinders that will stop the arms from falling if a like should break.
Quote from: Bibbyman on October 14, 2005, 10:40:58 PM
The sequence valves are used on the turner and back support line so it is controlled by one valve. First, the back supports come up to full height and then the log turner comes up. Just the reverse on the down stroke.
I never put in the sequence valve Bibbyman. I put in two independent banks instead of one. It can do a lot of things that the original set up can't do like, cross controll to roll a cant clockwise, move the log forward and aft with the tips of the side supports while being suspended on the clamp or turner and roll the cant off the side of the mill to land between the wheel and main beam. ;D ;D
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10451/P1010004%20%28WinCE%29.JPG)
The kit was (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10451/P1010005%20%28WinCE%29.JPG)
well thoug(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10451/P1010002%20%28WinCE%29.JPG)
ht out all parts were there and good instructions cost was $1895.00. Took about 5 hrs to install. The loader and all hoses ,pump and hardware were in the kit .