We will have a lathe attachment for Wood-Mizer mills at the show in Rock Springs, PA Ag Progress Days real close to State College, PA ( Go Penn State!) AUg 16, 17, 18
I am not sure how it works or what it is all about. Dave Mann from Indy will be bringing it. We will be turning cedar. Sounds pretty cool.
Marty PA Wood-Mizer
Dave brought along a bunch of photos to the pigroast that I got to look at. Looks pretty cool.
A LATHE ATACHEMENT? WHERES THE PICS! I WANT ONE, I JUST KNOW I DO! 8) 8) 8) 8)
How does it Work? Bringing it from Indy?? I am only 90 miles from Indy. ROAD TRIP!
Kirk,
You can turn those big hickory and honey locust logs for your new buidling with that. Timber frame with round perfect beams 8)
Is there and adaptation device for Mobile Dimension Mills? I have two mills, I :'( suppose I would have to have two lathes? 8)
Quote from: Frank_Pender on August 12, 2005, 12:08:44 PM
Is there and adaptation device for Mobile Dimension Mills? I have two mills, I :'( suppose I would have to have two lathes? 8)
Yes, I believe there is an adaptor kit. I think the part number is LT40.
You'd have to have two Wood Mizers, Frank.
What would you do with 4 sawmills? There wouldn't be a tree left standing in all of Oregon. :D :D
You talkin' about this thing?
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10034/wswmlath200501.JPG)
Yea, I got pictures. I even seen it work... :D
How much $ are they?
Not sure if the price is set. I think someone said around 2Gs.
So that's why WM wanted some cedar posts awhile back ??? ???
What are you talking about, Tom, I got four mills now. 8) I knew someone wood say that, Jeff. :'(
I am betting it turns the log in the oppisite direction of the blade at a high rate of speed. Then you saw into the turning stock and presto, a trued up round log!
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10034/wswmlath200502.JPG)
Here is a wide shot of the Wood-Mizer Lathe attachment. The first steps are to make an octagon out of the log. There are index stops on the lathe head to possitioin the log for each flat.
I think the motor is a 1 or 2 hp single phase 120v motor.
This brings a whole new dimension to the production of octo posts!! It will certainly beat my method!! 8)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/12520/octo_post.jpg)
We ran the Lathe- Mizer at the show this week. It will fit any model Wood-Mizer ( Not sure about the LT10) You can cut 3, 4, 6, 8 sided posts, or you can do the 8 sided and run the blade against the sides and it becomes round. smiley_flipping We did Cedar, cherry and white pine. It did not seem to matter on the denisity of the wood. Max length is 8' 4" and max diameter was 13". It workes on 110 volt 1 hp motor to turn the lathe. I think it could be adapted to any other manufactures mill.
After we ran the blade to make it round we took sand paper and it gave it a very smothe finish. It is a pretty neat idea. It was designed by a Wood-Mizer owner from Canada and he is using us for marketing. Wood-Mizer has done a few adjustmnets for safety and ease of use. They said they attampted to make the lenght longer but there were problems with shaking.
Thanks Marty
So when can I plase my order? How much is it going to be? Please dont price it so that we are forced to simply make our own. ;D
Does it work as good on dryer logs like standing dead?
I can see a whole TON of problems doing this with fresh logs, how well do they dry?
How long will a blade last?
Will it take the set off? ???
The price on the Lathe- Mizer is $ 2195.00 and we have a special price of $1995.00. I am not sure how soon they will be available (weeks not months). Blade life would be the same as sawing Cedar or what ever the species you are sawing. We sawed about 8 posts during the show and felt no need to change the blade. It does not effect the set of the blade. I am not sure about dry vs. green posts. WM has done tests to see what if's, they sawed the post in half while the post was turning and they were using different sets and hook angle blades and more teeth per inch. There was never and noticable difference on the turning. We usually made two passes any more did not seem to make a difference. after the second pass we just used the sand paper and the post was smothe. There are safety braces that fold up when the Lathe- Mizer is in use and the back supports are up also. There is a stop for the track to keep from sawing into the gear box. We sawed Cedar, White pine and Cherry. I cant see any big problems with dry logs unless the log would be rotten. I was only around this for 3 days, seemed to work good, the only down fall I could see is that it would be better if you could do longer posts, they did some expermients on this and said it was hard to control longer logs. Thanks Marty
Is WM going to modify the Accuset program to be able to keep returning to the same height without having to go into manual mode and back to pattern?
No need to modify, just use the reference mode. I think I answered your question. ???
If you are refering the the Lathe- Mizer once we set the saw head we did not change it. Just shut the saw down from turning and back up. Once you have the 8 sides cut we dropped down a 16th and that is all that was needed to make it round.
Marty
Quote from: MartyParsons on August 22, 2005, 08:53:22 PM
No need to modify, just use the reference mode. I think I answered your question. ???
If you are refering the the Lathe- Mizer once we set the saw head we did not change it. Just shut the saw down from turning and back up. Once you have the 8 sides cut we dropped down a 16th and that is all that was needed to make it round.
Marty
Yea, now that I think about it... with the stop provide that's bolted to the bed rail, you can set it so it saws out the end of the post but leave the blade on the cut every time.. So you can just pull the head back (after the blade stops) without changing the height setting.
The only time I've used the reference mode was on accident. I'll have to poke at it a bit and see what it does. What's the common use for Reference?
If you're talking about when you poke the button on the upper left of the control panel a second time it displays a number like 12".? Then if you hit the up swtch, the sawhead will go up to 12". (or if you're above 12" and hit the down switch, the head will go down to 12")
The best use I've put it to was when I cut my last board I hit that button in the upper left twice and then the up switch and the head goes to 12". Then I offload the last board and load the next log. The head is about right to start the next log.
The advantage being, you don't have to hold the up (or down) switch until it gets to that place. Just bump it and it goes there. Meanwhile you can run the hydraulics, pull the board retrurn up, flip the switch on the debarker or one of a hundred other things with the hand that's now free. (I usually poke the reference button AS the last cut is being made so I'm ready as soon as the blade breaks out to hit the up switch and the head will start to come up.)
You can program four refference heights under each of the 1,2,3,4 program buttons. For some reason, Mary likes to use the second botton that's set at 24". I think so she can look down the log better and level it and so on.
Hmmmm, I've been looking for that button for a bit. I just couldn't find it. :-[
I've always thought I'd have to change my AUTO UP to where I wanted to be. In this mode I decided it would take too much time.
A quick double tap on the MANUAL MODE should work out nice. A good portion of my time is sawing 18" + logs, which will save me about 20 seconds/log. Good tip, I like it. ;D Now I just have to get my axle straightened out. :(
Thanks Mary and Bibby 8) Boy I'd love to saw with you two for a day. My brain would be in sponge mode.
Quote from: Gilman on August 23, 2005, 03:20:49 AM
A quick double tap on the MANUAL MODE should work out nice.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/archives/mills/mills-band2/CommanControl2.jpg)
I was talking about that black/white button to the left of the display.
What I call the manual mode button is one of the four orange buttons below the display - the one on the far left.
I have an early version of Accuset and discovered by accident that if I want the head to go ALL the way up I select Auto Up, then right after I hit the up lever I hit the auto down button and now the head just keeps going ALL the way up. Just the oppisite if I want to come all the way down.
I dont think it was designed to do that but it works nice. Just have to stop the head before it goes higher than I want.
I thought they were the same botton. I was thinking of the Black/White too. I guess you really don't notice which button you're hitting after a while.
Thanks again for the new tip.
I see Wood-Mizer has put up a new web page with pictures of the Lathe-Mizer and the products it can make.
Lathe-Mizer (http://www.woodmizer.com/en/sawmills/options/lathemizer.aspx)
We were there Monday after the Pig Roast when they were taking these pictures. ;D