I was think I might add a a power feed to my manuel mill.I was wondering if and how a person would go about it.Should it be DC or AC? ::) ::)
Should it run off a cable or a chain? ::) ::)
I was thinking an electric motor would be the easyest and cheapest way to go,but I don't really know because I just now came up with the idea and I havent rally thought it out yet.
Rod, I think any these will work. There are a lot of variables. I am pondering the same move. I am mostly home so I am leaning AC, but then what if I go out? My other thought is to put some hydraulics on the mill with a smaller engine for loader/turner/clamps and put a hydraulic motor on the feed.
Will
What if the AC gets wet ???
If there is any chance of that, it might be better to go with DC.
I think Hydraulic sounds to be the better home remedy. A/C can light up your life. D/C requires some electronics work with boards, diodes and switchs and a bunch of other fancy words. Hydraulics is pretty straight forward. You might want to use it to drive a belt so that something will slip and not tear the mill up though.
Tom,
I am with you. Simple power pack and a valve, infinitely variable!!!KISS
REID
On my mill, I bought from Grainger a permanet magnet gearmotor with a SCR control module. I machined a capstan and use a 3/16 cable to pull the saw head back and forth. It pulls at about 80 lbs and has variable speed from 0 to 75 ft per min. both direction. Have used it for 10 years with NO problems.
Check www.surpluscenter.com for DC gear motors and controllers.
Jason
i think the peterson has an electric motor they use .I wonder what kind i is?
I think the Hydraulic would take more power to run and cost alot more also.
D Frederick,where do you get the motor at?
Rod,
I bought a new gear motor from WWGrainger, you also can get them from the Surplus Center
maybe something like this might work.its 6 rpm,just put a spool on the end of the shaft and wrap the cable around it a few times so it wont slip,and have some kind of switch to control the amps and driection and I'd say I'd have a power feed.
But I still need somehing to conver AC to DC tho.
LINK (http://www.baldor.com/products/detail.asp?1=1&page=1&catalogonly=1&catalog=GP7304&product=Gear+Products&family=DC+Gear+Motors%7Cvw%5FGearProducts%5FDCGearMotors#)
also the sale the stuff at 1/2 the list price
I picked DC because I thought it would be easyer to control the speed.
I have been thinking about using a transaxle off of a riding mower.Power it with a dc motor and speed control and use reverse gear for forward,slower speed and 3rd or 4th gear for gig back. you would have nuetral and even a clutch with the idler plus the belt drive would give you some torque protection. If you used a flat belt and idler,couldn't you feather the feed rate like my old frick mill use to?Just a thought ???
Add the seat and you can ride along with it. ;)
You need to use DC to get variable speed. Or a universal type AC with brushes. ie - drill motor. You can't vary the speed of an AC motor with a rehostat, you are cutting the voltage by doing this, it will burn out in no time. I use a 3/4 hp shunt wound DC motor w/ a right angle gear drive & roller chain. The AC is run through an inverter sold by Grainger, about 175.00 these days. I've used this set up for almost 15 years with no problems. Another option I've thought of would be a hydrostatic drive from a garden tractor, you can run that from an ac motor & vary speed with the hydro.
Thats a god idea mike.I called Baldor and the guy said about the same thing you did.He told me the stuff that would work but it cost seems kind of high tho, for the gear drive motor and controller,$580 and they are inclosed and explonsen and water proof.
We used a ¾ HP Baldor motor, although, a ½ HP would work fine if you don't require a dragback. We bought an electronic controller off Ebay, which works VERY well, and we used 2 pillow blocks for a jackshaft and chain drive. Crosswired a drum switch for forward and reverse and use a 10K potentiometer for speed control.
We have cut over 100,000 bd/ft with very few problems, mostly mechanical (Ball Bearings going bad).
Fla._Deadheader ,would this motor work?
http://www.baldor.com/products/detail.asp?1=1&page=1&catalogonly=1&catalog=GP7304&product=Gear+Products&family=DC+Gear+Motors%7Cvw%5FGearProducts%5FDCGearMotors&rpm=6
forget the link,i cant get it to work
But aways its a Baldor Catalog Number: GP7304 motor
If it is the one you posted yesterday, I would think not. 1/8th HP is not that strong, even though it IS geared. Sometimes, the blade needs a little "help" going through a knot or hard spot in the log. ½ HP would be minimal in my opinion.
We used a 2" pulley on the motor, and a 9" pulley on the jackshaft. It is slower on the gigback than I want, so, I am going to an 8" on the shaft.
The motor and controller and drum switch would run aroung $500.00 NEW.
Go back to Jason entery #6, you can get every thing you need for a DC drive from the Surplus Center for less than $400.
OK D,I'll check out that link again.
FlaDeadheader,should I look for a sertain amount of torque?
No, Amps is what you need and 12V @ 373 watts = 31 Amps. We have our feed drive set up, so, if we get bound up somehow, the motor pulley will slip, just like a clutch.
ok ,90v x 1.0 watt = 90 amps,right?So is that enough amps?I believe the contonller has an over load on it.
What I don't get is why does it say it has 90v?
http://www.baldor.com/products/product.asp?1=1&product=Gear+Products&family=DC+Gear+Motors%7Cvw%5FGearProducts%5FDCGearMotors&rpm=6
Gear Products | DC Gear Motors | 6 RPM |
Specifications: GP7304
Catalog Number: GP7304
Specification Number: 27314E
Phase: DC
Output RPM: 6
Torque: 150
Ratio: 600
Amps: 1.0
Insulation: A
Rotation: R
Enclosure: TENV
Type: 73P
Mechanical Specification Number: 24A403Z071G1
Electrical Specification Number:
OUTPUT RPM 6
TORQUE (Lb-In) 150
VOLTAGE 90
RATIO:1
HORSEPOWER 1/8
CATALOG NUMBER GP7304
Thats what it says about the motor
It needs 90v DC - Like AC motors that are 120 - 240, many dc are 90 - 180 DC. This has to come from an inverter hookup, you won't get it from the 12V DC that I believe Woodmiser uses. Also TENV is totally enclosed NON vented - Most of these are intermitent duty - Like 10 - 20 minutes out of an hour - This will probably cook itself and go off on thermal overload running a carrige continuously.
Read YOUR specs in the second post back from this one. It states 1.0 AMPS
1 AMP is very little power.
I don't understand why you have been given several viable ways to do what you want, and then, are hung up on this motor ???
All those that have responded to you, are doing so from THEIR EXPERIENCES. ::) ::) ::) ::)
Harold, I am beginning to think that there are certain individuals that use this forum simply to entertain themselves by seeing how stupid they can be before we lose our patience and go comp[letely out of charactor for an understanding friendly and helpful forum. Well one certain individual, lets call him SYBIL, has made me create another personality, one I dont like and he wont either.
Deadheader ,i'm just trying to figure the math and what motor to use.
Mike,it might be and
intermitent duty motor.I need to check into that.
Rod,
With a band mill using a 1 1/4 inch blade, does not require that much force to feed the blade into the cut. My permanet magnet motor is 1/4 hp and it is moving about 300+ lbs, it has plenty power for sawing. A bigger motor would speed up the jig back.
If you plan on using a board drag-back, then I would look for a system with at least 1 hp
Thanks D._Frederick,I'm not planing on a drag back.
Rod,
Six rpm is way to slow for a carriage feed, it would require you to use jack shafts to get the rpm high enough. My gearmotor is 90 rpm and with a 3 1/2 inch capstant it gives me a maximum carriage speed of about 80 ft per min. I am using a 90 volt inverter which requires 120 volts ac.
thanks D,I was wondering wat rpm to get.80 fpm seems kind of to fast to me tho.
I''ll call Baldor tomorrow and see what motor I should use.