The Forestry Forum

General Forestry => Timber Framing/Log construction => Topic started by: Radar67 on October 01, 2005, 11:51:18 PM

Title: Draw Knife Handles
Post by: Radar67 on October 01, 2005, 11:51:18 PM
Anyone got any information on how to make a handle for a draw knife? I have a 10 - 12 inch knife missing a handle and would like to use it to debark and shave beams.
Title: Re: Draw Knife Handles
Post by: beenthere on October 02, 2005, 12:07:10 AM
What tools do you have available?

A lathe? A drill with bit? Draw knife ( :) )?  pocket knife? 

You can do it, even if it isn't perfectly round, but still fits your hand.

How about a pic of the tang that doesn't have a handle for starters.   :)
Title: Re: Draw Knife Handles
Post by: Radar67 on October 02, 2005, 12:17:05 AM
I have a drill and bits, pocket knife, grinder, power sander, and other hand tools. I'll have to get a picture of the tang, but it is square (about 1/4 inch) and about 3 inches long to the little plate the handle butts to. It is not set up for any type of fastener, the handle appears to be a drive on type.
Title: Re: Draw Knife Handles
Post by: Ernie_Edwards on October 02, 2005, 05:27:36 AM
Radar67,

I have used some of my wifes horse shoeing rasp handles on draw knives with success. They will twist/screw onto the tang and actually do a very good job. Contact a local horse shoer/farrier and ask them where they get their rasp handles.

Good luck,

Ernie Edwards
Title: Re: Draw Knife Handles
Post by: Radar67 on October 02, 2005, 10:46:56 AM
Thanks for the info Ernie.
Title: Re: Draw Knife Handles
Post by: hayton1960 on October 02, 2005, 11:05:38 AM
Some people heat fit the tang into the wood.
I use 2 part epoxy to hold it in.
I did that on my billhook with an ash handle, it takes the punishment just fine.
I drill a pilot hole part way in then use a very little mortise type chisel to patiently open up a tapered square hole to fit the tang. (A tight fit) then clean and degrease the tang, apply epoxy then set home. Make sure to have a good strong ferrule as well to prevent splitting. I turned the handle green, with an oversized ferrule section, let it dry (in this case it was for about 12 years ::)) then re-turned the ferrule section down to the exact size for my chosen steel ferrule (in this case a 1 1/2" length of butchered old cymbal stand), before forming the tapered hole etc Finished the wood with danish oil.
Hope this hepls cheers Jonathan ;)
PS I heard somewhere that wrapped rawhide or other leather can make a good comfortable tool handle