I'm trying to design a parts list for my bandsaw head. I'm thinking about using a 2 belt clutch "b" size for my mill.
I can request a clutch that starts to engage at a certain motor speed, What I was wondering is at what point on your throttle does your clutch begin to engage?
Another silly question. Is it better to drive one wheel over the other? IE. should the blade be pushed through the cut or pulled?
Thanks guys, I'm sure I'll drive you bonkers with question as I start building the beast.
The clutch on my Norwood engages with just a little touch from the throttle. If the engine is idling high for some reason, the blade will move as well. I don't think you'd ever want to "push" a bandsaw blade through a cut, either.
Mine pulls the blade through the cut. Has a manual clutch.
Centrifugal clutch, manual clutch .............. I don't even have a clutch. My WM-LT40 uses a belt tension leaver. Seems to work fine. What are the advantages or disadvantages of these?
If you get a clutch that engages at approx 2000rpm you will be good to go. Most 4 stroke motors idle at 1350rpm and throttle up to 3600rpm.
The nice thing about the centrifugal clutches is that there is no load on the starter gear, engagement is nice and smooth, also that IF you got a jamb up, then the clutch kicks in saving belts and pulleys from glazing up and causing slipping druing normal milling.
Hope this helps.
Chris
Quote from: woodbowl on December 05, 2005, 03:45:43 PM
Centrifugal clutch, manual clutch .............. I don't even have a clutch. My WM-LT40 uses a belt tension leaver. Seems to work fine. What are the advantages or disadvantages of these?
I'm thinking about going that route as well, The clutch would make things simpler in my mind though and keep a constant tension from the motor to the driven pulley keeping any possible movement in the drive wheel to a minimum.
Cost is a consideration though, so far the only 2 belt clutch I've found is 260.00 from linnlumber saw mill parts. I also found one through boston gear but they've not emailed back yet with a qoute.
I'm also thinking about building in an emergency stop into the unit where the clutch would be nice to have.
Thanks for the input folks.
Try a Google search, there are a number of companies that make cluches. You want to pull the blade for it to operate correctly.
Hi, You didn't state your Horsepower. I looked for clutches this last summer and in the 20 and above range you won't find a good one for much less. Linn has a lot of good parts for homebuilders. I think they are good guys to deal with also. Just my .02's. good luck, Logwalker
I think Peterson runs a 3 groove clutch on their mills. I have not asked what one will cost as I do not run a clutch on my mill. Do not put a $60 clutch on your mill. Don't ask how I know this. ::) ::)
Will
Quote from: logwalker on December 05, 2005, 08:13:46 PM
Hi, You didn't state your Horsepower. I looked for clutches this last summer and in the 20 and above range you won't find a good one for much less. Linn has a lot of good parts for homebuilders. I think they are good guys to deal with also. Just my .02's. good luck, Logwalker
The motor I'm rebuilding is 22 hp at 2500 rpm, I'm planning to change it out later to a lighter motor in the 30 hp range if I can talk a relative out of a Kohler twin block thats been sitting in his shed for 11 years.
That horsepower puts you into the larger centifugal range. And if you up it to 30 then what.I would look at the motor mount lever that woodmizer uses to tighten belting for clutching. It uses a lever to over-center the adjustable arm and tightens belt. Works well and eliminates some problems. Logwalker
Quote from: logwalker on December 06, 2005, 11:34:11 AM
That horsepower puts you into the larger centrifugal range. And if you up it to 30 then what.I would look at the motor mount lever that woodmizer uses to tighten belting for clutching. It uses a lever to over-center the adjustable arm and tightens belt. Works well and eliminates some problems. Logwalker
Hmm, do you think an idler/tensioner pulley would work or do you think that would add vibration to the assembly?
modatt,
I just installed a centrifugal cluth on my saw. It is a 2 belt unit that I bought through Motion Industries for $315.00. I did not know about linnlumber but their's seems to be the same clutch which is built by Osram Co. I really like mine. I used a solenoid off an old Kuboto diesel engine to throttle up my 20 h.p. Honda engine.
The system woodmizer uses does not have idler wheel. They just use a lever to raise or cock the motor mount to tighten the belts. Very simple and the movement of the motor also advances the throttle with a simple linkage. Works great. LW
Thanks guys for all the information.
I have to think about what I'm going to do, I like the idea of the clutch but hate the cost. I like the idea of the moving engine tightening the belt but my motor is so heavy it could be a problem.
I might try to machine a manual clutch that allows for slow start of the wheels or find a clutch off a haybailer that bolted on the same engine I have.
Thanks again!!
I wonder if someone could make use of an old Troy built roto-tiller to engage and dissengage? Just a dumb thought. Dont shoot me ;D
Quote from: twostroke_blood on December 11, 2005, 09:46:12 AM
I wonder if someone could make use of an old Troy built roto-tiller to engage and dissengage? Just a dumb thought. Dont shoot me ;D
would you use the tines for a debarker? ;D :D
Quote from: twostroke_blood on December 11, 2005, 09:46:12 AM
I wonder if someone could make use of an old Troy built roto-tiller to engage and dissengage? Just a dumb thought. Dont shoot me ;D
Twostroke, there won't be no rounds fired from over this direction. I like that kind of stuff! If you think about it, that is the way an engineer would think.
what is already availible - how can it be made to work? What erks me is, when it gets to the marketing level, things are desigened away from the practical way of thinking. Now the agenda seems to be
lets design it so that it breaks at a certain amount of hours and designed in such a way that only ours will fit so they have to buy parts from us!
Even with a heavy engine, cocking it to tighten the belts, or sliding it, is one of the best ways. No loss of power from idelers and just beltd to replace. The best way is a fluid cushion, ie; automatic transmission and torque converter.
Quote
would you use the tines for a debarker?
now i've used them to run hay elevators,once hooked one up to a saw table.
but as a debarker we might have to get arky ta hold the thing cause he is da man :D :D :D :D