am putting up some temp. poles that will be replaced with properly cut beams, but, any tricks to making an end cut that could stand on a floor?
You can use a chain saw mill for that or a beam cutter for a skilsaw.
I think he meant bopping off the end of the post so it stands up straight?
If so, I would first mark your cut. A straight edged piece of heavy paper long enough to wrap around the pole so the edges meet will give you a guide to cut straight. Make sure your saw is sharp and not cutting crooked and start slow and follow your line.
Or just cheat, set the pole up perfectly plumb standing in an old bucket with a bag of quick-set fence post cement in it, DRY.
After your sure it's perfectly plumb just gently pour a little water into the pail. 8)
If they can't find ya' handsome, they should at least find ya' handy! ;)
Quote from: Jeff B on January 05, 2006, 12:51:34 PM
I think he meant bopping off the end of the post so it stands up straight?
That's what I meant budinsky. :D
I now have a jig that I can make straight or angle cuts in beams.
QuoteThat's what I meant budinsky.
Thats a new one. :D
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10030/beam%20jig.JPG)
You measure over from the edge of the board to the cutting tooth to get the distance and the angle then clamp the board to the beam with at least two clamps.
I use a square off the side of the beam to mark a straight line to place the edge of the jig.
This is how I do them if theres several. I make a 3 sided trough out of 2xwhatever fits around them. Drop the pole in the trough, shim it up centered in every direction and chock it with wedges. The end of the trough is cut square, stay a shade off the trough and follow it.
Another place I've mainly used the trough is when cutting log rafters. Each side of the trough is then a 2x pattern of the rafter with plumb cuts and birdsmouths.
>how to cut plumb with chainsaw<
Pratice on apples and pears :D :D :D
for a simple plumb line I have in the past used a piece of 2x4 nailed to the beam as a guid
simple and most importantly very cheap
I used the jig today to cut a 2x8 , over kill for a 2x8 but I wanted to get a picture of it.
It works the same with beams.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10030/jig%202.JPG)
... and the results ...
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10030/jig%203.JPG)
Quote from: Jeff B on January 05, 2006, 12:51:34 PM
I think he meant bopping off the end of the post so it stands up straight?
If so, I would first mark your cut. A straight edged piece of heavy paper long enough to wrap around the pole so the edges meet will give you a guide to cut straight. Make sure your saw is sharp and not cutting crooked and start slow and follow your line.
But before cutting with the saw I would cut the line with an xacto knife . ;)
I'm probly going to get banned from this board for saying this..........
Just use a hand saw! ;)
Furby.... like this one ???
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10493/lewhandsaw2.jpg)
YUP!
I just use a framing square. Mark on 3 sides. Than cut slow and easy.
Richard
jsut buy strate wood then you dont hafta cut it and if its the wrong length tell whoever you buy it from that they should practice a cut to length operation ;D
I do this a lot so here is my way. Just mark 2 sides with the framing square. The top and the side nearest you. Then bring the saw through the post at a 45 deg. angle carefully following both lines. Then using the cut as a guide continue through to the finish. With practice you can get them danG close. They will easily stand on end every time. Practice a few times. And don't cut fast.
Quote from: Kevin on January 07, 2006, 02:20:56 PM
I used the jig today to cut a 2x8 , over kill for a 2x8 but I wanted to get a picture of it.
It works the same with beams.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10030/jig%202.JPG)
That looks like a 334/338 saw. I just tried clamping the 338xpt I just bought to my Mini-mill, and the bar (14") is too narrow for the mini-mill clamp. Are you using the 16" bar, or did you modify the mini-mill bar clamp?
Since poles are seldom straight. Stand the pole up as plumb as you can on a level surface; scribe the pole bottom to the level surface. Cut at the scribe line. No scribe, tape a pencil to block of wood, use it to mark the bottom.
or...
Snap a chalkline down the centerline. Use two squares to transfer the line around the round surface. You will end up with cut line that is square to the centerline.
Put the ole' whiskey eye on it ;) ;D
leewee ! is that thing AC or DC ?????
I've cut alot of phone poles,try as you may they always seem to be not quite square.After you cut put a square on it ,skitter the chain endgrain on the high spots until true.Frank C.
No one likes my ideas over in timberframing but I will try here....
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/16762/verticle_H.JPG)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/16762/closeupH2.JPG)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/16762/square.JPG)
I made this in about 20 minutes out of old angle iron and it works great for this kind of thing.
If you go over to "Tools for Timber Framers" there are some more shots of what I call the "FLying H"
Quote from: Jeff on January 05, 2006, 12:51:34 PM
I think he meant bopping off the end of the post so it stands up straight?
If so, I would first mark your cut. A straight edged piece of heavy paper long enough to wrap around the pole so the edges meet will give you a guide to cut straight. Make sure your saw is sharp and not cutting crooked and start slow and follow your line.
I have used this method many times, it works great and it is cheap and easy. the paper or lite weight card board should go around the pole an extra half time, it allows you to line up the edges.