Have been doing homework on pole pruners. I have always ran echo string and brush blade trimmers and have been very happy with them. Echo also has a 5 foot extension which brings the total length to 17 feet compared to 12 feet for husky and stihl. For these reasons I have been leaning towards the echo. Now I have to look at power/weight ratrios. Does anyone have a recommendation ? I have heard these are quite handy for clearing out thorny thickets and for trimming down stream embankments, I would have never thought of these uses. Enjoy
Peter
Does any OEM make one with a swivel head? Cutting branches above your head requires cutting at the wrong angle, makes it tough to do a proper uncut, which means jamming the saw in the kerf when the weight of the branch makes it droop.
One thing to remember is to tie off big branches so they do not swing back at you and so they drop straight to the ground.
Quote from: rebocardo on January 20, 2006, 10:49:47 AM..............
One thing to remember is to tie off big branches so they do not swing back at you and so they drop straight to the ground.
Interesting how you would 'tie off' big branches.....
If using a pole 'pruner' saw, seems the branch is a bit up in the air to reach to tie it off. I appreciate the problem of them swinging back after being cut, and also know that when they hit the ground (small branches first) they do a 'dance' and flop around, causing one some real hurt if one isn't too 'fleet' of foot. So I am interested in how you 'tie off' the big branches. And what is 'big' when using a pole 'pruner' saw?
Never thought I needed a 'swivel' head, but know getting out of the undercut before the kerf closes is a smart thing to do. ::) ;D
I never had a full grasp of the problem described here until I watched someone with little saw experience trying to use a pole pruner. Why do new users think they are only allowed one cut??? You are allowed (and encouraged) to cut smaller pieces. You should never attempt to cut off a medium or large limb with only one cut at the trunk. Plan ahead and take it in 2-3-4 cuts. Smaller pieces don't bounce as far and a cut made 5' from the trunk won't peel down through the branch collar.
I've also watched saw users try to cut down small 15'-20' trees with one cut at ground level, then get banged up when it falls on them. Stand up and cut it off in 2-3 cuts and THEN cut the stump.
Quote from: Rocky_J on January 20, 2006, 01:11:31 PM
................ Stand up and cut it off in 2-3 cuts and THEN cut the stump.
That works if the tree is going for firewood. If into lumber, then too much wood is lost cutting high stumps.
But your point is well taken for the pole limb pruner saw. Taking the limbs in steps is a good method.
Not much lumber to waste in a 15' -20' tree. ::)
Will
Leave da pole saw on da truck. ::) Do da tree a favor, just climb it, and do what needs to be done. ;) Less apt ta get bonked on da head too. ;D
That's a good idea, Chet, but some of us have trouble getting anything done while hanging on with both hands and both feet. It's much easier for some of us to work from the ground and have both hands to do the work and both feet for running away when the work goes wrong. :D
Dat's a good idea, 'cept yur under yur work and stand a good chance of gittin' bonked on da noggin'. ;D
If I'm up in the tree, I'm afraid if I let go with even one hand I'll fall on my noggin. How about I work from the ground and wear my hard head? :o :D
Good compromise. smiley_thumbsup
> And what is 'big' when using a pole 'pruner' saw?
Anything in the 6-8" range, though anything over 1" I tie off if I am on a ladder.
> So I am interested in how you 'tie off' the big branches.
Generally I go to the far end of the limb and throw a weight line over it, though on some branches that start at 12 feet near the trunk and go upwards of 40 feet, like on water oak, I will sling shot a line over it as near to the branches as possible.
Then depending on the limb, width, and weight (if it has leaves) I will then get either a clothes line, syn. line, or steel cable up there. Generally I go with a choker set up. One thing I have found, when I want to get the limb away from the tree (I am on a ladder) or an object, I tie off to my truck with a tow strap. Then I put a bit of pressure on it (not sideways) and once the cut is made, the strap will spring back and pull it away straight away as is falls. You can pull a 600-800 pound limb a good 6-8 feet away from the tree depending on height off the ground.
Usually though I just tie off hand tight to any object (another tree) with the line towards the end of the limb and it is enough to make the limb fall straight down once the top cut meets the bottom cut and prevents it from bouncing back.
Did I mention for a pole saw seeing any heavy type of use, an automatic oiler is a must? Grows old pushing that little manual oiler button, especially if trimming a pine or magnolia if doing a bunch of limbs from the ground.
What I find the best use for my pole saw is after at tree is dropped, mostly white oak, where the big limbs are supporting the trunk (butt) off the ground, and there is not enough room to roll it with my truck and cables, is using it to relieve tension on the supporting limbs, and to drop the tree on its trunk a safe 10-12 feet away.
Thanks rebo
Manual oiler? My Stihl has an automatic, but apparently all don't have them.
That tieing off is a bit time consuming, but I will keep it in mind if the right situation comes up. I think first I'd make two or three cuts through a limb before going to all that trouble. Just my luck the ropes would get hung up and I'd have to cut the tree down just to get the ropes back. :) ;)
> My Stihl has an automatic, but apparently all don't have them.
No, almost all the cheap electric have manual oilers.
> I think first I'd make two or three cuts through a limb before going to all that trouble.
Yea, if you can reach it. Sometimes the only way to reach the end of a branch is by using a ladder against the limb near the end. I am not into that. If I can not tie to the trunk and be on the other side of the trunk while cutting, I don't bother with the tree. I rarely get six feet off the ground with the ladder anyways.
> Just my luck the ropes would get hung up and I'd have to cut the tree down just to get the ropes back.
That is why you use the string first ;) and then pull the bigger lines up with that.
Time consuming, not really. I spend more time setting the ladder up and running the cord for the pole saw then doing the lines. Besides, I charge by the hour with a min. of an hour.
I've had my Stihl since they first came out. Got a fair ammount of time & bent parts under my belt.....
I can't imagine going with the longer Echo model. When fully extended a pole pruner will make you ache in places you didn't know could ache.......
Power to weight ratio isn't really an issue, ain't none of them extremly fast cutting. They all use a weedwacker motor, not a chainsaw motor.
My Stihl has been a really good saw, no complaints. Stihl is also very proud of the parts for it, don't ask how I know.
Ed
Personaly I like an arborists pole saw with a fresh blade. The pole pruner is just another piece of equipment to maintain and Its no faster than a pole saw up to about 4 inches diameter. Its esier to carry and store. And a lot cheaper too.