How many drive links for a 28" bar 3/8 pitch? (Stihl 066) Thanks.
Jeff;
Can you create a drive link calculator? :D
Probably!
I don't know nathin about those little saws you guys run, I don't even know what a drive link is unless it's the segment of the chain that runs on the sprockets. But if there is a mathamatical formula to figure out a problem, I can make a calculator. You just have to supply me with all the input data and the required outputs.
Ron? Is this a joke on Jeff question or a do-able request?
Jeff;
I found my answer and it`s 91.
That`s gotta be worth $250 . :D
You are correct 91 for the Stihl and if it was a Husky it would be 93. Gotta be careful, when it comes to link counts.
Jeff you are correct about the drive links. Little saws---HUMMMMM.
Gordon
Jeff, I suppose you could calculate the drive links from the pitch, gauge and bar length, but most forestry catalogues have tables with the info, even going to model of saw. Bailey's is a good place. I think they have an online catalogue.
I had tried Oregon and couldn`t find it then tried Baileys and found it there.
Yahoo Jim wrote and said he saw it on the Oregon site but I think they may have a Canadian and U.S site.
Anyway, it`s out there if you know where to look.
Hi There, I bought a Husky 385 with a 28" bar and the drive count was 92, but it has a Pro bar on it and the stud slot is closer to the heal of the bar allowing one less drive link.
The nice thing about a 92 drive link count is that you have left and right cutters alternately, whereas a 90 or 93 drive count with have two left or right cutters alternately following each other. The larger drive count is designed to accept an 8 tooth sprocket while allowing the oil hole to line up as well. Used chain should be shortened to the minimum drive link count to reduce chain throw.
John
Tramp,
My 066 came with an 8 rim sprocket, do you know if that`s standard on their new 066`s?
I`ve since changed it to 7, now we`re log`n! :D
Hi Kevin, all the stock 066's come with the 8 tooth sprocket, but causes the saw to loose the necessary torque to drive longer bars in bigger hardwood. If two 5/8" pipes are brazed to the muffler after blocking the existing port, an increase of a 1/2 h.p. is immediately realized, plus your saw will run cooler, therefore lasting longer.
Now Your Rippin!
That`s Amazing, Grace!
Thanks.
Hi There, it is probably fair to mention that before we all race out to the shop to revamp our mufflers, we must take note of a few things. If a saw was run rich all it's life on the jets and on the mix, there will be a carbon build up in the exhaust port etc. Now, if we are to take that same saw, use the correct mix and set the carb up to factory max rpm, then we end up with a seizure because the carbon will be introduced to the jug causing problems. Sorta like a person with high colesterol who runs a few miles and keels over from cardiac arrest.
So in other works, leave your saw alone unless you are willing to run the saw as it should be without the carbon, which is wide open all the time with the right mix and settings. Otherwise you will be cursing me when your saw goes "PUFF". A rebuilt carb will also add power. 99% of the time, all that needs to be changed is the metering diaphram.
The Tree Amigo's
Hey Timber_Tramp have you got any pictures or diagrams of the muffler surgery that you mentioned for increasing power on an 066?
Hi John, I dont have an 066 tuned by Walkers, but here are some pics of a 372XPG. In this album can be seen the pipe arrangement.
John
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=1426327&a=11169207