The Forestry Forum

General Forestry => Sawmills and Milling => Topic started by: Andre on November 20, 2002, 06:45:35 AM

Title: Clutch for engine on homebuilt bandmill.
Post by: Andre on November 20, 2002, 06:45:35 AM
Does it work OK to just use an idler pulley to loosen up the drive belts?
I think I will be getting the 28 HP Kohler command pro engine.  I have not found out if there is a PTO clutch option but I will bet it would be expensive if it is available.

I know it would make more financial sense to just buy a mill but I have my own ideas and building the mill is just as much fun as sawing lumber. (https://forestryforum.com/smile/smug.gif)
Title: Re: Clutch for engine on homebuilt bandmill.
Post by: Weekend_Sawyer on November 20, 2002, 07:11:24 AM
My lumbermate 20hp Honda has a centrifical clutch right off the crank shaft. Works great.

I run a Torro 3 blade mower deck that uses an Idler to start/stop the blades. You only start and stop it a couple of times a day and the belts do wear out. I would think that starting and stoping after each cut would realy go through the belts. IMHO.

Let us know what you come up with.
Title: Re: Clutch for engine on homebuilt bandmill.
Post by: Tom on November 20, 2002, 07:49:41 AM
Andre,
An Idler would work.  I've seen them used on  little manufactured mills but they don't last too long.  The bearings are usually not up to the strain.   If you use an Idler make it with something substantial like automotive wheel-bearings and a trailer spindle.  Make the wheel big enough that the bearing isn't spinning a million miles an hour. :D

The other option is to do like WoodMizer has done and make the engine movable on an axis.  When you lift the engine, you tighten the belt and Rev up the engine too. :)
Title: Re: Clutch for engine on homebuilt bandmill.
Post by: Andre on November 21, 2002, 04:39:11 AM
Thanks, I know about moveing the entire engine but that seems like a lot of work.  I think I will start with an idler system, seems the simplest way to start, maybe change later.