The Forestry Forum

General Forestry => Sawmills and Milling => Topic started by: Michaeljp86 on April 14, 2006, 08:46:38 PM

Title: Home made sawmill
Post by: Michaeljp86 on April 14, 2006, 08:46:38 PM
Im planning on building a sawmill, I have got a little work done on it. I have never worked with a sawmill or even seem one, except for in catalogs. I should be able to cut 12' logs and have a 12.5hp engine on it. I would like to make a little money with it if I can and maybe if it works out make enough money to build a bigger one or buy one. Then I can give this one to my uncle fred, wait I mean $ell it to him. I like wood working and have a hard time getting good wood or cant aford it but see good logs rotting away. Im building this to handle up to a 3' wide log, I will most likely never get anything near that size but just in case.

Here comes one of my biggest questions, do I need water cooling the blade? Also any tips you can think of I would love to hear. If I get this going I'll post some pictures so I can show it off. Thanks alot
Title: Re: Home made sawmill
Post by: sjh on April 14, 2006, 09:02:50 PM
Most sawers due recomend blade lubrication. It can be anything from water to kerosene. It depends on what you are cutting.
Title: Re: Home made sawmill
Post by: Michaeljp86 on April 14, 2006, 09:05:00 PM
kerosene??????????????

never heard of that, what is it for pine?
Title: Re: Home made sawmill
Post by: sjh on April 14, 2006, 09:14:19 PM
I forgot what kerosene is used on. I use water/dishsoap mix when needed.
Title: Re: Home made sawmill
Post by: thecfarm on April 14, 2006, 09:31:56 PM
I use half diesel and half bar and chain oil.This is a very hot and heavy topic here.Been talked about before.Do a search and you will find a lot of infro.This will be the least of your problems,I feel.You need to make your mill saw sraight first.
Title: Re: Home made sawmill
Post by: Michaeljp86 on April 14, 2006, 10:12:14 PM
Quote from: thecfarm on April 14, 2006, 09:31:56 PM
I use half diesel and half bar and chain oil.This is a very hot and heavy topic here.Been talked about before.Do a search and you will find a lot of infro.This will be the least of your problems,I feel.You need to make your mill saw sraight first.

What do you mean by straight?
Title: Re: Home made sawmill
Post by: Shawn on April 14, 2006, 10:31:22 PM
I think he's refering to when we build our home brewed sawmills, to make them as accurate as possible. There are many different opioions on what " blade lubrication" to use. Differs based on type of mill, species of wood cutting, personal trials, etc. I think I will start off with the Laundry soap and water mixture first. Maybe some Lawrence Welk music at the job site.

Give us more details on your home brewed mill. Is it 4 post, 2 post? band wheels or trailer wheels? Pictures are even better.

Shawn...
Title: Re: Home made sawmill
Post by: Michaeljp86 on April 15, 2006, 08:50:49 AM
Im going to use 16" trailer wheels, and right now Im planning on a 4 post.
Title: Re: Home made sawmill
Post by: highpockets on April 23, 2006, 07:10:57 AM
Michaeljp86 there are a lot of things one can do with a homemade mill.  First, start with 3"x6"x1/4" square (rectangle) tubing for the frame.  Use atleast the whole 20' length of the tubing.  You'll want to cut longer stuff a day after you get to sawing.  Give a lot of consideration to the length of the sawhead also.  This determines how much frame you have left for travel.  Place you log clamp, log turner and loader in a position were you will have centered weight on them.  (I placed mine a little too far back and have a little problem getting 20' logs balanced when loading and turning.   If you are looking for 30" diameter logs, look for more h.p., you'll need it.  Give much consideration to the control of the minimum cutting speed.  Don't get carried away with how fast you can run your sawhead.  In my opinion, a delicate slow movement in sawing knots is one of the keys to good lumber.  That is my two cents worth.   
Title: Re: Home made sawmill
Post by: mike_van on April 23, 2006, 07:47:46 AM
When mine first started out, lots of areas were welded that shouldn't have been. There's no way to adjust if you need to.  Drilling & bolting takes longer, but if you have to, you can re-do, repair or just "tweak" later. One part that comes to mind is the mount for the moveable guide, if you weld it on, better hope it's true. Motor mounts too, you need some adjustment for whatever you use.  Hinged door covers with latches are easier than 4 wing nuts. If you can, try to see a few mills in operation, I built mine 15+ years ago, before the "net" was  a big thing, trial & error is time consuming and costly.  Salvage yard parts are just great if there's one near you.