The Forestry Forum

I am nearing completion of the saw barn / shop.  I have been working on the dust collection system and I am now at the point where I would like to mount dust collection hoods over the table saw and the woodmizer.  My system design calls for 4" ports on the hoods and I would really like to find some clear hoods so no lighting is blocked.  The hood for the table saw will be suspended from the rafters.  The hood for the woodmizer (LT40HDG25) I want to attach to the headrig to capture fine dust and exhaust fumes.
I have been searching for days and I have not found anything to fit the bill.  Does anyone have any leads or should I buy some plexi and make my own?
Would a smaller cone shaped duct work as well as a larger rectangular unit?  A smaller duct will not block enough light to matter.

I don't know of any that are commercially available. 

Are you familiar with the importance of grounding your collection system?

Scott

Not quite sure what you're looking for but Rockler has a dust hood for a lathe that is clear plastic and mounts behind the lathe to capture chips- attaches to a 4" hose? Part number is 67899, this should be a link

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=10578&filter=67899

Good luck.

Years ago fabricated all kinds of stuff out of plexiglass.  Cuts bout the same as wood.  Leave the protective paper on when working to prevent scratching.  If it is the plastic film take it off and put masking tape on.  Little heat out of a hot air gun (or high power hair dryer) and ya can bend it most any shape.  Cut edges can be sanded and heated with a propane torch to turn back to crystal clear.  Think??? I used acetone for glue in an eyedropper which sets in a nanosecond.  Available at at most of the box stores.

I've read that Lexan is stronger, and more scratch resistant but have no personal knowledge.

     At the shop were i use to work we use to bend lexan in press brakes to a 90 degree angles and had none broke. Plexiglass would break when trying to bend without heat.



     Thanks Alot Mr Mom

Scott,
I have heard both ways concerning the grounding of the system.  The grounding method that seems to make the most sense I picked up on Bill Pentz's site 

http://billpentz.com//woodworking/cyclone/index.cfm

He provides a link to a description of grounding using aluminum tape inside and out of the PVC ducting.  I bought the tape and promptly forgot to install it when I put the piping together ::)  I used ASTM 2927 (scd 35) 6" pipe with gasketed fittings.  Those fittings are a bear to use and I do not relish taking the system apart to install the tape.  I think I might use the system for awhile and see how it performs.  If the static build up is enough to warrant it I will disassemble and install the tape.  My rudimentary stopgap first go round system was comprised of a smaller blower and 4" corrugated black plastic pipe.  I did not experience any static charges with that system.  All that was on that first system was the mizer.