Some time back I asked about why my Husky was making curved cuts. One suggestion was to check the bar for uneven wear. I did that today and sure enough the bar was warn more on one side and a few minutes with a file and a whet stone and she is cutting straight as a die now. Thanks a ton to the (now unknow) person who posted that info!
Now, what caused it to wear that way? BTW those Husky bars are HARD! Had to clamp that bar down and really apply the pressure to get the file to cut. I cross filed, drawfiled and honed the file marks out and presto...fixed! Thanks again! 8)
Quinton
Yes I had the same problem with Stihl 30" bar I have two that cuts curved but do not know where to file but to me they look straight. Do you mean that you have the file around the groove or filling the tip of the bar?
Secondly from my own experience the causing of heat is running the chainsaw through very hard wood, beside I have run my chainsaw without any oil the oil which is lubricating the chain has finished without knowing, when I stopped the machine I have found out that the bar is very hot. Another good reason is dull chain.
Alsayyed
Easy way to check the bar for uneven wear is to take the bar off the saw and try and stand it up on edge on a flat table. If it allways falls over in the same direction then the rails are not even and you need to file or grind them flat again.
Have a look at the Baileys site, they have a power grinder and a handheld file guide for dressing bars. Unless you are running a chainsaw shop then the handheld file would be the best option. I have also seen a home made grinder built from a cheap angle grinder and a section of angle iron that worked the same as Baileys unit.
http://store.baileys-online.com - Guide Bar Maintenance (http://store.baileys-online.com/cgi-bin/baileys/scan/fi=products/st=db/tf=description/co=yes/sf=category/se=123/op=eq.html)
Cheers
Ian
alsayyed is right, the biggest culprit is forcing a dull chain. Bluing in the area directly in front of the powerhead is a sure sign. Dirty wood or a loose chain will also cause excessive and uneven bar wear.
I square the edges of my bars on a disc sander. I know the table is square to the disc and then very lightly sweep the edge of the bar against the disc. I have a 20" disc sander so it is very easy to feather along, but I'm sure a smaller diameter would work as well.
pap uses a grinder zip zip and your done i hsould learn to do it cause i get stuck with the junk half wore out and slightly bent bars that the tips are about to go out of ;D well not always but when im doen that what thyre like :D
Today I saw a neat tool for dressing saw bars, a palm sized gidget that has a short file in it and drops over the bar. Just move it forward like an ordinary file. When the file dulls, remove it, flip it over and re install.
Was that in the Bailey's catalog sawguy?I know they have them.
I don't get Bailey's catalogue. Apparently they won't ship up here. Our Oregon distributor rep had them but I didn't note the brand. I'll check the catalogue at work. He says he can't keep them in stock.
After using that gizmo, I have one, you still have to follow up with another file or dremel to clean the edge of burrs. Still, a neat tool.
One of my customers (i run an auto service shop ) was complaining that one of his saws was cutting bananas in larger diameter wood , the bar and chain were relativley new and the chain was sharpened but his expeirenced cutter.
After i ground all the cutters to the same length on my chain grinder it cut straight (one side was shorter ).
did you check the angles of the cutters, they have to be identicaly otherwiese you will also get cuved cuts.
Ive usually found the problem to be improperly sharpened chain.
Alsayyed your saw should run out of gas before running out of oil thus eliminating the problem of running out of oil if you fill both tanks at the same time every time. If not your oiler may be out of adjustment depending on what saw you use. IF the problem cant be fixed by an adjustment, check to make sure its still oiling after you've been cutting for a while. Its pretty obvious when you run out of bar oil and you can save yourself a lot of grief by avoiding that.
the sthil dealer in my area tells me I should go thru 1 tank of oil to 2 tanks of gas
Yes but fill the oil every time because sometime it might need 1.1 tanks oil to 2 tanks gas. Don't take a chance. In fact I always fill the oil first when refueling. If I get sidetracked and forget to put the fuel in it won't start, if done the otherway and the oil was forgotten it would run til the chain and bar were junk and then quit, very costly mistake.